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4/11/2014 11:30:29 AM EDT
I'm building a 8'x8' chicken coop on my property, but it will be going in a spot that isn't level. Also, I want it 20" off the ground. This means building it on posts. The floor will be 2"x6"s placed 16" on center. Since the occupants of this shed will be chickens, their feed, and bedding, etc. the bulk of the weight the corner posts will be supporting will be the building itself. Would 4"x4" corner posts be sufficient to carry the load, or should I be going bigger like 6"x6" posts? I've got some 4"x4"s leftover from another project, and some 2"x8"x8' lying around, and was thinking I could laminate the 2"x6"s and make 4"x8" posts which would allow me to use wood on hand, versus having to go buy new stuff. My carpentry skills so far have been limited to building furniture and work benches, so this will be the first building I've constructed and I'm using it as a learning process. Also, with the 2"x6" joists for the floor, will I be okay with just four corner posts, or will I need more?

Thanks!
4/11/2014 11:38:41 AM EDT
[#1]
4x4's should work but I'd consider spacing them at 4' instead of 8.
4/11/2014 11:43:59 AM EDT
[#2]
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Quoted:
4x4's should work but I'd consider spacing them at 4' instead of 8.
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Okay, so one on each corner (4 posts), one in between each corner posts (4 posts), and one in the middle, so 9 posts in total? I might need to rethink this then, I really didn't want to have to dig that many post holes (nor do I want to spend the $100+ to rent a post hole auger for a day). Problem is the area is a gentle slope, and I really don't want to have to spend the $$ to level it. Any other options?
4/11/2014 11:46:07 AM EDT
[#3]
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Okay, so one on each corner (4 posts), one in between each corner posts (4 posts), and one in the middle, so 9 posts in total?
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4x4's should work but I'd consider spacing them at 4' instead of 8.


Okay, so one on each corner (4 posts), one in between each corner posts (4 posts), and one in the middle, so 9 posts in total?


HOLY FUCK!
Drink more beer. The chickens would be fine with  plywood leaned up to a wall.
4/11/2014 11:47:45 AM EDT
[#4]
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Okay, so one on each corner (4 posts), one in between each corner posts (4 posts), and one in the middle, so 9 posts in total?
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4x4's should work but I'd consider spacing them at 4' instead of 8.


Okay, so one on each corner (4 posts), one in between each corner posts (4 posts), and one in the middle, so 9 posts in total?


That's what I would do.  What will the walls and roof be made of?
4/11/2014 11:47:59 AM EDT
[#5]
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HOLY FUCK!
Drink more beer. The chickens would be fine with  plywood leaned up to a wall.
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4x4's should work but I'd consider spacing them at 4' instead of 8.


Okay, so one on each corner (4 posts), one in between each corner posts (4 posts), and one in the middle, so 9 posts in total?


HOLY FUCK!
Drink more beer. The chickens would be fine with  plywood leaned up to a wall.


Yeah, until it hits -40F and the snow is piled up 2'-3' deep.
4/11/2014 11:50:41 AM EDT
[#6]
Sorry RIF.  You should be fine with 1 on each of the corners and 1 post centered along each side.  Do you plan on burying these posts or just setting them on bare ground?
4/11/2014 11:51:02 AM EDT
[#7]
Actually it is dependent on the type of roof you have in mind. For instance a "shed " roof will put the load on the perimeter of your deck, as will a truss configuration.
However if you do a "stick " built roof , then the load will be straight downward through the center line, thus without appropriate bracing will begin to push the walls out of plumb
at the top. Just my .02.

EDIT: If you go with "shed"/"truss" roof , rather than add that extra 4x4 , simply double up the band/ ribbon (2x6) on the load bearing sides.
4/11/2014 11:53:06 AM EDT
[#8]
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That's what I would do.  What will the walls and roof be made of?
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4x4's should work but I'd consider spacing them at 4' instead of 8.


Okay, so one on each corner (4 posts), one in between each corner posts (4 posts), and one in the middle, so 9 posts in total?


That's what I would do.  What will the walls and roof be made of?

Planning on using some scrap wood I have to keep costs low(er). Floor joists will be 2"x6"s I have left over from replacing some of our corral fencing (its treated lumber). The walls will be non-treated 2"x4"s. I've got four sheets of 3/4" OSB, and will use two for the floor, but will probably buy 1/2" OBS for the walls and roof, then some siding over that on the exterior walls for snow/rain protection and then asphalt shingles on top of a 45 degree roof (built with 2x4s 16" on center). All I should need to buy are the 1/2" OSB and roofing material (and apparently more 4x4 posts).
4/11/2014 11:53:45 AM EDT
[#9]
4x4's at the corners would probably work, but like someone said before, it wouldn't hurt to have them at 4 ft centers. I don't think 6x6's are necessary.
4/11/2014 11:55:23 AM EDT
[#10]
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Sorry RIF.  You should be fine with 1 on each of the corners and 1 post centered along each side.  Do you plan on burying these posts or just setting them on bare ground?
View Quote


Burying them at least 3' down, and sitting on about 6" of crushed rock for drainage. But I was not planning on cementing them in.
4/11/2014 11:57:23 AM EDT
[#11]
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Actually it is dependent on the type of roof you have in mind. For instance a "shed " roof will put the load on the perimeter of your deck, as will a truss configuration.
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Actually it is dependent on the type of roof you have in mind. For instance a "shed " roof will put the load on the perimeter of your deck, as will a truss configuration.

Very good to know.

Quoted:However if you do a "stick " built roof , then the load will be straight downward through the center line, thus without appropriate bracing will begin to push the walls out of plumb
at the top. Just my .02.

What is a "stick" built roof?


Quoted:EDIT: If you go with "shed"/"truss" roof , rather than add that extra 4x4 , simply double up the band/ ribbon (2x6) on the load bearing sides.

Can you explain this, in English?
4/11/2014 11:58:59 AM EDT
[#12]
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Okay, so one on each corner (4 posts), one in between each corner posts (4 posts), and one in the middle, so 9 posts in total? I might need to rethink this then, I really didn't want to have to dig that many post holes (nor do I want to spend the $100+ to rent a post hole auger for a day). Problem is the area is a gentle slope, and I really don't want to have to spend the $$ to level it. Any other options?
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Quoted:
Quoted:
4x4's should work but I'd consider spacing them at 4' instead of 8.


Okay, so one on each corner (4 posts), one in between each corner posts (4 posts), and one in the middle, so 9 posts in total? I might need to rethink this then, I really didn't want to have to dig that many post holes (nor do I want to spend the $100+ to rent a post hole auger for a day). Problem is the area is a gentle slope, and I really don't want to have to spend the $$ to level it. Any other options?


I was thinking 6 posts total. 3 posts along the 2 beams that are perpendicular to your joists.
4/11/2014 11:59:29 AM EDT
[#13]
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Burying them at least 3' down, and sitting on about 6" of crushed rock for drainage. But I was not planning on cementing them in.
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Sorry RIF.  You should be fine with 1 on each of the corners and 1 post centered along each side.  Do you plan on burying these posts or just setting them on bare ground?


Burying them at least 3' down, and sitting on about 6" of crushed rock for drainage. But I was not planning on cementing them in.



How deep does the frost go in your area?
4/11/2014 12:04:56 PM EDT
[#14]
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I was thinking 6 posts total. 3 posts along the 2 beams that are perpendicular to your joists.
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4x4's should work but I'd consider spacing them at 4' instead of 8.


Okay, so one on each corner (4 posts), one in between each corner posts (4 posts), and one in the middle, so 9 posts in total? I might need to rethink this then, I really didn't want to have to dig that many post holes (nor do I want to spend the $100+ to rent a post hole auger for a day). Problem is the area is a gentle slope, and I really don't want to have to spend the $$ to level it. Any other options?


I was thinking 6 posts total. 3 posts along the 2 beams that are perpendicular to your joists.


Gotcha. So no posts in the center area, just on the outside edges? So like this (imagine happy faces are the posts in an 8'x8' area):

       


       

4/11/2014 12:06:47 PM EDT
[#15]
4x4 is plenty as noted with more of them at closer spacing.  remember that there will be times when you are going to have to climb in there to clean it out or to repairs to the floor, walls, feed tray etc.  So make it capable of holding two adults.
4/11/2014 12:10:58 PM EDT
[#16]
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How deep does the frost go in your area?
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Sorry RIF.  You should be fine with 1 on each of the corners and 1 post centered along each side.  Do you plan on burying these posts or just setting them on bare ground?


Burying them at least 3' down, and sitting on about 6" of crushed rock for drainage. But I was not planning on cementing them in.



How deep does the frost go in your area?

No idea. Trying to Google it, but not having any luck.
4/11/2014 12:16:29 PM EDT
[#17]

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How deep does the frost go in your area?
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Quoted:


Quoted:

Sorry RIF.  You should be fine with 1 on each of the corners and 1 post centered along each side.  Do you plan on burying these posts or just setting them on bare ground?




Burying them at least 3' down, and sitting on about 6" of crushed rock for drainage. But I was not planning on cementing them in.






How deep does the frost go in your area?




 
Further than 3 feet.
4/11/2014 12:21:12 PM EDT
[#18]
http://forecast.weather.gov/product.php?site=MKX&issuedby=MKX&product=HYD&format=CI&version=12&glossary=0






There are frost depths.  I can only see back 10 days there, but I'm sure you can find further back someplace else.







10 days ago there were several spots with 36" of frost.







The shallowest I would consider going is 4'.  If you're in the north woods I would go even deeper than that.

 
4/11/2014 12:24:47 PM EDT
[#19]
frost goes further then 3 feet up there?  

4/11/2014 12:26:03 PM EDT
[#20]
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  Further than 3 feet.
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Sorry RIF.  You should be fine with 1 on each of the corners and 1 post centered along each side.  Do you plan on burying these posts or just setting them on bare ground?


Burying them at least 3' down, and sitting on about 6" of crushed rock for drainage. But I was not planning on cementing them in.



How deep does the frost go in your area?

  Further than 3 feet.


Okay, I found this from a report:

"This was the case this spring when heavy rainfall affected southern Wisconsin between April 8th and 18th. Many locations received between 4 and 8 inches of rain. Temperatures had remained well below normal prior to the rainfall, while snow cover persisted through most of March. This combination of prolonged cold and snow cover resulted in frost depths around 20 inches, from late January into early April."

"The deepest frost depth measured since record keeping began, was 24 inches in mid February, 2009.  The second deepest frost depth was this year, when it reached 22 inches in late February, and lasted through mid-March."

So looks like typical WI frost depth is ~20"

NOAA report
4/11/2014 12:41:59 PM EDT
[#21]

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Burying them at least 3' down, and sitting on about 6" of crushed rock for drainage. But I was not planning on cementing them in.
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Quoted:



Quoted:

Sorry RIF.  You should be fine with 1 on each of the corners and 1 post centered along each side.  Do you plan on burying these posts or just setting them on bare ground?




Burying them at least 3' down, and sitting on about 6" of crushed rock for drainage. But I was not planning on cementing them in.
If you are burying them you need to go below the frost line.

If you don't go below the frost line you might as well use post blocks above ground



 
4/11/2014 12:55:47 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote History
Quoted:
If you are burying them you need to go below the frost line.
If you don't go below the frost line you might as well use post blocks above ground
 
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Sorry RIF.  You should be fine with 1 on each of the corners and 1 post centered along each side.  Do you plan on burying these posts or just setting them on bare ground?


Burying them at least 3' down, and sitting on about 6" of crushed rock for drainage. But I was not planning on cementing them in.
If you are burying them you need to go below the frost line.
If you don't go below the frost line you might as well use post blocks above ground
 


I might just do that because I'm not keen on digging (by hand with a post hole digger) six 3'-4' holes. And I really don't want to spend $100 to rent a auger for the day. The are a lot of trees near where this coop will go, and I can just imagine it will be full of rocks and roots. I might just level six small square spots, and sit some con concrete piers on them.
4/11/2014 1:03:24 PM EDT
[#23]
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Okay, so one on each corner (4 posts), one in between each corner posts (4 posts), and one in the middle, so 9 posts in total? I might need to rethink this then, I really didn't want to have to dig that many post holes (nor do I want to spend the $100+ to rent a post hole auger for a day). Problem is the area is a gentle slope, and I really don't want to have to spend the $$ to level it. Any other options?
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Quoted:
Quoted:
4x4's should work but I'd consider spacing them at 4' instead of 8.


Okay, so one on each corner (4 posts), one in between each corner posts (4 posts), and one in the middle, so 9 posts in total? I might need to rethink this then, I really didn't want to have to dig that many post holes (nor do I want to spend the $100+ to rent a post hole auger for a day). Problem is the area is a gentle slope, and I really don't want to have to spend the $$ to level it. Any other options?

Guy, a pressure-treated 4X4 will support better than three tons in compression.  I think four will do for an 8' by 8' chicken coop.
4/12/2014 5:58:15 AM EDT
[#24]
Update - after much thinking (mostly about my bad back and the "fun" that would be digging post holes) I've decided to relocate where the coop will go. New spot is in the same general vicinity, but the land there is almost perfectly level (except one corner than has maybe a few inch drop over an eight foot span). I'm going to place the coop on six concrete deck piers/bases, and from there use the 4"x4" to elevate it to the 20" height off the ground. This space under the coop will act as 1/2 of the chicken run.

I'm still unsure which roof would be the best to go with. I was thinking of a stick-built gable roof with 45 degree angle on both sides. Since this is my first attempt at a building, any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

Max
4/12/2014 7:01:05 AM EDT
[#25]
4x4's will be fine, triangulate bracing, and use 2x8's for the perimeter, 2x6's for the intermediate floor joists will be fine.
4/12/2014 7:04:22 AM EDT
[#26]
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Quoted:
If you are burying them you need to go below the frost line.
If you don't go below the frost line you might as well use post blocks above ground
 
View Quote View All Quotes
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Sorry RIF.  You should be fine with 1 on each of the corners and 1 post centered along each side.  Do you plan on burying these posts or just setting them on bare ground?


Burying them at least 3' down, and sitting on about 6" of crushed rock for drainage. But I was not planning on cementing them in.
If you are burying them you need to go below the frost line.
If you don't go below the frost line you might as well use post blocks above ground
 


If its just for chickens, this is what I'd do.  4x4 on deck post blocks.
4/12/2014 7:14:26 AM EDT
[#27]
Any post that I put in the ground is soaked in used motor oil for a day or two before setting. Even if it's treated. The "treatment" is only about 1/2" deep on treated wood and any cut exposed untreated wood to the environment.

If you are putting a wooden floor in a chicken coop you should cover it in something like linoleum so it wont absorb chicken crap. Bed it with sawdust and mix in about a pound of diatomaceous earth to kill the mites.

If your coop is off the ground, you might want to bury chicken wire around the edges to keep varmints from living under it. The chickens will attract them and the dark cool place will make them want to live there.

Good luck with your project!
4/12/2014 7:34:44 AM EDT
[#28]
whatever you do, don't spend any money or find out from a book how to build the shed properly


http://www.amazon.com/Building-Shed-Tauntons-Build-Like/dp/1561589667
4/12/2014 7:39:59 AM EDT
[#29]
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whatever you do, don't spend any money or find out from a book how to build the shed properly


http://www.amazon.com/Building-Shed-Tauntons-Build-Like/dp/1561589667
View Quote


Yeah, because nobody ever built a shed before a book was written about it.
4/12/2014 7:41:20 AM EDT
[#30]
Mine is about twenty inches off the ground built on tapered 2x6 legs. I have a decent overhang (which is essential IMHO)
I also have a 300 gal. Water tank with a 50 gal. Back-up which is fed off the roof so they always have water handy.
4/12/2014 10:52:56 AM EDT
[#31]
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Any post that I put in the ground is soaked in used motor oil for a day or two before setting. Even if it's treated. The "treatment" is only about 1/2" deep on treated wood and any cut exposed untreated wood to the environment.

If you are putting a wooden floor in a chicken coop you should cover it in something like linoleum so it wont absorb chicken crap. Bed it with sawdust and mix in about a pound of diatomaceous earth to kill the mites.
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Quoted:
Any post that I put in the ground is soaked in used motor oil for a day or two before setting. Even if it's treated. The "treatment" is only about 1/2" deep on treated wood and any cut exposed untreated wood to the environment.

If you are putting a wooden floor in a chicken coop you should cover it in something like linoleum so it wont absorb chicken crap. Bed it with sawdust and mix in about a pound of diatomaceous earth to kill the mites.

That was the plan. Will also be using pine shavings (since we have horses we always have loads of shaving). Although I've heard sand makes for a good material on the floor.

Quoted:
If your coop is off the ground, you might want to bury chicken wire around the edges to keep varmints from living under it. The chickens will attract them and the dark cool place will make them want to live there.

Going to do that around the run, and then I'm adding hardware cloth to the underside of the floor to keep our burrowing/clawing critters.
4/12/2014 10:58:45 AM EDT
[#32]
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If its just for chickens, this is what I'd do.  4x4 on deck post blocks.
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Sorry RIF.  You should be fine with 1 on each of the corners and 1 post centered along each side.  Do you plan on burying these posts or just setting them on bare ground?


Burying them at least 3' down, and sitting on about 6" of crushed rock for drainage. But I was not planning on cementing them in.
If you are burying them you need to go below the frost line.
If you don't go below the frost line you might as well use post blocks above ground
 


If its just for chickens, this is what I'd do.  4x4 on deck post blocks.


That is (now) the plan.
4/12/2014 11:00:09 AM EDT
[#33]
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Guy, a pressure-treated 4X4 will support better than three tons in compression.  I think four will do for an 8' by 8' chicken coop.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
4x4's should work but I'd consider spacing them at 4' instead of 8.


Okay, so one on each corner (4 posts), one in between each corner posts (4 posts), and one in the middle, so 9 posts in total? I might need to rethink this then, I really didn't want to have to dig that many post holes (nor do I want to spend the $100+ to rent a post hole auger for a day). Problem is the area is a gentle slope, and I really don't want to have to spend the $$ to level it. Any other options?

Guy, a pressure-treated 4X4 will support better than three tons in compression.  I think four will do for an 8' by 8' chicken coop.



The dirt it is sitting in is the limiting factor, not the axial compression of the 4x4.  He only has about 10 square inches of bearing.  If his dirt is average, he could end up with some  settlement.  I'd use 4 posts on the corners, but I'd put them on dek blocks.  (Pre-cast concrete block that is 12x12x8 with a pocket cast into it that the end of the post slides into). They get buried below grade.
4/12/2014 11:01:10 AM EDT
[#34]
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If its just for chickens, this is what I'd do.  4x4 on deck post blocks.
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Sorry RIF.  You should be fine with 1 on each of the corners and 1 post centered along each side.  Do you plan on burying these posts or just setting them on bare ground?


Burying them at least 3' down, and sitting on about 6" of crushed rock for drainage. But I was not planning on cementing them in.
If you are burying them you need to go below the frost line.
If you don't go below the frost line you might as well use post blocks above ground
 


If its just for chickens, this is what I'd do.  4x4 on deck post blocks.



And I should have read further!
4/12/2014 11:07:34 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote History
Quoted:

Guy, a pressure-treated 4X4 will support better than three tons in compression.  I think four will do for an 8' by 8' chicken coop.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Quoted:
Quoted:
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4x4's should work but I'd consider spacing them at 4' instead of 8.


Okay, so one on each corner (4 posts), one in between each corner posts (4 posts), and one in the middle, so 9 posts in total? I might need to rethink this then, I really didn't want to have to dig that many post holes (nor do I want to spend the $100+ to rent a post hole auger for a day). Problem is the area is a gentle slope, and I really don't want to have to spend the $$ to level it. Any other options?

Guy, a pressure-treated 4X4 will support better than three tons in compression.  I think four will do for an 8' by 8' chicken coop.



Listen to Jane, while I'm all for overkill setting 8 posts on an 8x8 chicken coop is insane.
4/12/2014 11:22:06 AM EDT
[#36]
The 4x4 in the four corners will work just fine. The support for the footings is the issue and it is dependent on the soil. Where I live you need a 90 lbs jack hammer and compressor and about 45 minutes to dig a hole 18" dia and 2' deep so not much footing is needed.
4/12/2014 11:34:40 AM EDT
[#37]

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And I should have read further!

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Quoted:


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Quoted:

Sorry RIF.  You should be fine with 1 on each of the corners and 1 post centered along each side.  Do you plan on burying these posts or just setting them on bare ground?




Burying them at least 3' down, and sitting on about 6" of crushed rock for drainage. But I was not planning on cementing them in.
If you are burying them you need to go below the frost line.

If you don't go below the frost line you might as well use post blocks above ground

 




If its just for chickens, this is what I'd do.  4x4 on deck post blocks.






And I should have read further!

My buddy did this on concrete post blocks, then he put a 5 gallon homer bucket around each post and post block, he filled the bucket up with cement, isn't going anywhere then.



 
4/12/2014 11:39:08 AM EDT
[#38]
For your center 4x4's, you could use the concrete post stands. They look like a pyramid with a cut out on top for the 4x4 to sit. Cut your 4x4 to length and your good. Where ever you have a tree root you don't want to mess with, you could use them there as well.

Some people mount axles on the ends attached to the 4x4's so you could pull it around as in "Chicken Tractor".
4/12/2014 2:00:09 PM EDT
[#39]
   this thread alone is worth the membership.jane is correct, no need to overthink or overbuild it. add some insulation unless you're gonna butcher your chickens every year.
some of the responses in this thread make me feel like bob fucking vila
4/12/2014 2:14:42 PM EDT
[#40]
I'm thinking it might be time for someone with some MSPaint skills to chime in.
4/12/2014 2:17:07 PM EDT
[#41]
Quick google... From here Backyard Chickens, Tractor

4/12/2014 2:20:11 PM EDT
[#42]

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4x4's should work but I'd consider spacing them at 4' instead of 8.
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4 posts are ok but I would put a beam spanning each end and let it carry the 2x6 floor joists, much more solid and less holes to dig. use a 4x6 for the bean at least.