Posted: 3/21/2008 6:26:17 PM EDT
| Would it work to degrease before using duracoat? |
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For reasons I don't know, the "non chlorinated" version of brake cleaner is preferred. The words "non chlorinated" are prominent on the can. It really strips everything off, so careful and thorough relubing is required. Also, it's alleged to be a carcinogen and bad for the liver, so gloves are appropriate. It really works, though, as a degreaser, and is cheap. |
And you know exhaustively, all the plastics used in all the parts in all the guns that all the people on the site own? Now, for fun, read the first half of the sentence I posted earlier... |
I use non-chlorinated brake cleaner a lot. By the time I'm using brake cleaner, all the plastic stuff has been removed anyway. I don't use it for casual cleaning, like a gun that you've only fired a few rounds through. But, after a day where 1000 or more rounds go down the barrel of my M16 or my Uzi, brake cleaner is a real time saver! There have been many occasions where I got some on some plastic briefly, but I wiped it off pretty quickly with no ill effects. For "normal" cleaning of a semi-auto after a day at the range, I still rely on Hoppe's, CLP, and a little elbow grease.
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Birchwood Casey makes a synthetic safe version of their Gun Scrubber spray. I usually use nonchlorinated brake cleaner, but on a gun with any plastic I use the Gun Scrubber instead. Too bad it's not cheaper: www.cabelas.com/prod-1/0037557227899a.shtml |
I still own a rifle that I damaged (slightly...was able to cover it up with a bit of TLC) using Gun Scrubber. That was probably 12-13 years ago - maybe they reformulated since then? edit: oops, I see that this is a new formulation...wasn't reading carefully the first time.  |
I thought Carb cleaner was safe, but chlorinated brake cleaner wasn't... |
I have never had any trouble with the non-chlorinated either. Only problem I have had is that it evaporates so fast that the parts will sweat. If I was going to duracoat something I would probably use denatured alcohol. |
It's all I use |
Anyone know why the non-chlorinated version is recommended over the chlorinated? |
Thought I remember hearing its hard on the Ano or aluminum. |
Well, let's see, I've used brake cleaner on Glocks, XD's, H&K's, S&W's & probably a few that I've forgotten about, all without a single issue or problem. Care to share your experience with "losing plastic parts", please????? 
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I know chlorine (as used in swimming pools) causes corrision in many metals over a period of time. Could be that this is a part of it, could be some protecting the ozone layer issues as well, perhaps? |
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Non Chlorinated Brake Klean works great for cleaning firearms. I do remember bad things happening to the plastic stock of Remington Viper .22 rifle I had many years ago. I think that I had used the Chlorinated kind. Since the OP is stripping the weapon to paint it I would avoid useing the Brake Klean unless you are gonna wipe it down with denatured alcohol afterward and let it sit for 12 to 24 hours. Brake Klean has some sort of petroleum compound in it that can ruin paint if if its still on the metal. |
111 trichloretheline is not nice stuff, thats why. [it's probably mis-spelled] |