Posted: 6/15/2016 10:08:33 PM EDT
| I have a ProCraft V-200DC 20' bass boat with a 200hp 2.5L Black Max EFI motor, which is mounted directly to the transom. I picked up a 6" manual jack plate late last year, and still haven't had a chance to mount it and get the prop height adjusted. Anyone mounted one before? If so, how difficult will it be? I have a lift, and access to a Mercury lift ring, just not sure what all I am in for.... |
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I have a ProCraft V-200DC 20' bass boat with a 200hp 2.5L Black Max EFI motor, which is mounted directly to the transom. I picked up a 6" manual jack plate late last year, and still haven't had a chance to mount it and get the prop height adjusted. Anyone mounted one before? If so, how difficult will it be? I have a lift, and access to a Mercury lift ring, just not sure what all I am in for.... Return it and get a hydraulic/power jack plate, thank me later. |
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No real issues. Just lift off the motor, pull it away from the transom and install jack plate. Re-attach motor. The problems arise from cables being too short.
Make sure to silicone the holes in the transom with some "Life Seal" or other silicone that is ok for underwater use. |
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Really no need for a hydraulic plate. Cost is considerably more, and really no advantage once the height is dialed in. Sure, set up is a lot easier, but not worth the extra cost (to me). Yeah I have found once you get the height dialed in it always changes. I went your route and had a manual fought with it for 2 seasons and got power and never looked back, the again my outboard is heavy as fuck if you have something like a 50 or smaller it may be no big deal. When dialing in your height make sure you test with a full tank of fuel and low and average it out. I found that just that had a huge impact for me. Also if you plan on taking multiple people out vs yourself all those things will affect how low the boat rides and how to adjust. With power I can literally adjust on the fly if needed. |
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No real issues. Just lift off the motor, pull it away from the transom and install jack plate. Re-attach motor. The problems arise from cables being too short.
Make sure to silicone the holes in the transom with some "Life Seal" or other silicone that is ok for underwater use. Sounds simple enough. the again my outboard is heavy as fuck if you have something like a 50 or smaller it may be no big deal. Motor probably weighs close to 350-400lbs... |
| Easy peasy use the trailer jack or hook power to the trim to help get it laid flush, seal transom bolts then torque to spec. Torquing to spec probably gets fubard more than anything, if you hear glass cracking you're too tight lol. Also try to set the plate in the middle of it's adjustment then figure out which holes on the outboard will get you closest to your desired pad to prop height, now you got plenty of adjustment in both directions once she's all mounted up. |
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No real issues. Just lift off the motor, pull it away from the transom and install jack plate. Re-attach motor. The problems arise from cables being too short. Make sure to silicone the holes in the transom with some "Life Seal" or other silicone that is ok for underwater use. This. I use Goop Marine.... really good stuff. |
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Any sealant rated for underwater use will work. I used to use this Boat Life sealant alot when I worked at the marina.
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A marine elastomeric sealant is best. West marine should carry it.
There is a formula for setback and engine height, to get a starting point. They probably have it listed at scream and fly. Also, 6" set back isn't that much, but depending on your prop that may be a limiting factor. |
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Right now, I am running a Laser II 25p prop, but the plan is to eventually go to a 25p Tempest Plus set around 3.25-3.5" below the pad. The boat will currently run 63mph with me, full tackle load, and 3/4 tank of fuel (44gal tank). Buddy of mine has a newer ProCraft 200 Super Pro with a Mercury Optimax 200hp, 10-12" jack plate, and a Tempest Plus 25p...we hit 62mph the other morning with 1/2 tank of fuel, all our tackle, and 3 adults. Probably could have gotten a few more MPH's out of his boat, but I am not sure how accurate his water pressure gauge is and didn't want to trim too much higher.
Ideally, I would like to hit 68-70 mph with a new prop and jack plate in my boat, but that may be a little optimistic. 66-67 is probably more realistic, but I have to admit adding a jack plate and new prop is a lot of effort (and expense) just to get 3 more mph. |
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A bit different from OP's application but very similar issue: I have a 20' Sun Tracker pontoon with a Mercury Bigfoot 60. When I got it; the motor would wind up to 5000 RPM but no boat speed. I tried different props with no improvement in performance (actually got worse!) and finally realized that the motor was mounted too low. I found that the lift loop is built in on these motors, which made lifting it simple. I re-mounted the motor as high as I could get it in the existing motor well holes; about 1 1/2" higher. Great improvement in performance but it's still not 100%.
I think the motor should come up another 1"-2". I could fab a plate or brackets to accomplish that but I've hesitated because I don't know what the magic number is and would like to do this once and be done. The boat is already ass-heavy, as the Tracker motor well is further rear-ward than other boats, combined with the heavy motor and the 15 gal. fuel tank in the motor well, so I don't want to put the motor further back with a jack plate. A thin manual plate, where I could play with the adjustment would seem to be the answer. Any recommendations? |
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Quoted: Yeah I have found once you get the height dialed in it always changes. I went your route and had a manual fought with it for 2 seasons and got power and never looked back, the again my outboard is heavy as fuck if you have something like a 50 or smaller it may be no big deal. When dialing in your height make sure you test with a full tank of fuel and low and average it out. I found that just that had a huge impact for me. Also if you plan on taking multiple people out vs yourself all those things will affect how low the boat rides and how to adjust. With power I can literally adjust on the fly if needed. Quoted: Quoted: Really no need for a hydraulic plate. Cost is considerably more, and really no advantage once the height is dialed in. Sure, set up is a lot easier, but not worth the extra cost (to me). Yeah I have found once you get the height dialed in it always changes. I went your route and had a manual fought with it for 2 seasons and got power and never looked back, the again my outboard is heavy as fuck if you have something like a 50 or smaller it may be no big deal. When dialing in your height make sure you test with a full tank of fuel and low and average it out. I found that just that had a huge impact for me. Also if you plan on taking multiple people out vs yourself all those things will affect how low the boat rides and how to adjust. With power I can literally adjust on the fly if needed. He's right. |
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I have a ProCraft V-200DC 20' bass boat with a 200hp 2.5L Black Max EFI motor, which is mounted directly to the transom. I picked up a 6" manual jack plate late last year, and still haven't had a chance to mount it and get the prop height adjusted. Anyone mounted one before? If so, how difficult will it be? I have a lift, and access to a Mercury lift ring, just not sure what all I am in for.... It's not to big of a deal.....as long as you have a hoist, and a way to lift the motor...the hard part is done. Like others have said, a hydraulic lift is great......with a manual jack plate you have to compromise....find the best "all around" height for the motor. With a hydraulic plate, you can drop the motor down low for getting out of the hole fast, and then jack it up when you are screaming down the lake to get the lowerunit up out of the water farther. But, manual jackplates still work good...and are cheap compared to the hydraulic ones. Good luck, be safe, and make sure you seal up all of the new holes you make in your transom with some good marine silicone. |
| In life, I have found that when I have a choice to compromise or go with the better option, I ALWAYS regret the compromise...and usually wind up replacing with the best option later and kick myself for spending twice. So, now my policy is to wait until I can afford what I know is the best option. |
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Hmmm, wonder how it compares with 3M 4200 marine sealant. Quoted:
I use Goop Marine.... really good stuff. Hmmm, wonder how it compares with 3M 4200 marine sealant. 4200 for above the water line removable shit. Fast cure 5200 for permanent or below the water line. ETA 4100 is rated for below as well. But 5200 stays put. If your transom is cored which most are Id fully repair the holes. |
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In life, I have found that when I have a choice to compromise or go with the better option, I ALWAYS regret the compromise...and usually wind up replacing with the best option later and kick myself for spending twice. So, now my policy is to wait until I can afford what I know is the best option. If he isn't running in the flats a manual one is completely fine. |
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In life, I have found that when I have a choice to compromise or go with the better option, I ALWAYS regret the compromise...and usually wind up replacing with the best option later and kick myself for spending twice. So, now my policy is to wait until I can afford what I know is the best option. If I went that route, I would never own anything 
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I've never had issue with 3m below water line but I'm also anal from dealing with wood core transoms and reseal everything every 3-5 years.
Manual plates aren't quite as nice as hydro's but they tend to be much lighter and set back is set back which gives more benefit than getting the prop to pad just right everytime you run. If you really are anal about getting the absolute best prop to pad all you need to do is score marks where the sweet spots are (rough water, light load etc...)and adjust t it in the parking lot, shouldn't take more than 5 minutes with a decent manual plate. |
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Be mindful,that you are extending the motor back by 6" and adding 50-ish pounds to the stern. That will change the center of gravity and handling of the boat. At 60-is MPH, that makes a big difference. Be mindful,that you are extending the motor back by 6" and adding 50-ish pounds to the stern. That will change the center of gravity and handling of the boat. At 60-is MPH, that makes a big difference. I understand that completely, but not too worried about it...its all about getting everything correctly adjusted once on the water. Plus, I don't believe my plate weighs more than 30-35 lbs, so it shouldn't change that drastically. Quoted:
Op needs to take some videos of his sled at wot. Any particular reason? |
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I understand that completely, but not too worried about it...its all about getting everything correctly adjusted once on the water. Plus, I don't believe my plate weighs more than 30-35 lbs, so it shouldn't change that drastically. Any particular reason? Quoted:
Be mindful,that you are extending the motor back by 6" and adding 50-ish pounds to the stern. That will change the center of gravity and handling of the boat. At 60-is MPH, that makes a big difference. I understand that completely, but not too worried about it...its all about getting everything correctly adjusted once on the water. Plus, I don't believe my plate weighs more than 30-35 lbs, so it shouldn't change that drastically. Quoted:
Op needs to take some videos of his sled at wot. Any particular reason? So we can see that thing boogeying down the water! |
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Return it and get a hydraulic/power jack plate, thank me later. Quoted:
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I have a ProCraft V-200DC 20' bass boat with a 200hp 2.5L Black Max EFI motor, which is mounted directly to the transom. I picked up a 6" manual jack plate late last year, and still haven't had a chance to mount it and get the prop height adjusted. Anyone mounted one before? If so, how difficult will it be? I have a lift, and access to a Mercury lift ring, just not sure what all I am in for.... Return it and get a hydraulic/power jack plate, thank me later. what he said ! |
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Quoted:
I understand that completely, but not too worried about it...its all about getting everything correctly adjusted once on the water. Plus, I don't believe my plate weighs more than 30-35 lbs, so it shouldn't change that drastically. Any particular reason? Quoted:
Be mindful,that you are extending the motor back by 6" and adding 50-ish pounds to the stern. That will change the center of gravity and handling of the boat. At 60-is MPH, that makes a big difference. I understand that completely, but not too worried about it...its all about getting everything correctly adjusted once on the water. Plus, I don't believe my plate weighs more than 30-35 lbs, so it shouldn't change that drastically. Quoted:
Op needs to take some videos of his sled at wot. Any particular reason? It's not about the weight of the jackplate. It's about moving 400 lbs back by 6 inches. Changes the moment arm. |
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A manual will work fine. It's not all rocket science. You will find a jackplate works best in a very narrow range which is easy to find.
One disagreement here, if you end up with extra holes forget the sealant, repair them completely with resin and glass them over to match the gelcoat. It's not hard and it's the best insurance against rotting out your transom. |
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Quoted: Hmmm, wonder how it compares with 3M 4200 marine sealant. Quoted: I use Goop Marine.... really good stuff. Hmmm, wonder how it compares with 3M 4200 marine sealant. I use the 3M products on our production boats, and I've been very pleased with the performance. If it is a cored transom, I'd wet out the holes with epoxy to seal them and use sealant on top of that after the epoxy sets. If you dry-sail (keep it out of the water when not in use) then it is not as critical, but still a good idea. ETA: I assume you are referring to the holes for mounting the jack plate to the transom - if there are holes left behind from the outboard mounting bracket, fill them with a mixture paste of epoxy and Cabosil. You can use other fillers, but the Cabosil provides some strength that the lighter fillers lack. |
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Return it and get a hydraulic/power jack plate, thank me later. Quoted:
Quoted:
I have a ProCraft V-200DC 20' bass boat with a 200hp 2.5L Black Max EFI motor, which is mounted directly to the transom. I picked up a 6" manual jack plate late last year, and still haven't had a chance to mount it and get the prop height adjusted. Anyone mounted one before? If so, how difficult will it be? I have a lift, and access to a Mercury lift ring, just not sure what all I am in for.... Return it and get a hydraulic/power jack plate, thank me later. This!!!!  love mine!!!
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from a former dealer 3M 5200c marine sealant Quoted:
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Any suggestions on a sealant to use on the transom bolts? from a former dealer 3M 5200c marine sealant Is 5200 rated for water submersion? Some of the lower bolts may be in water And for the OP....just go to west marine and get a seslant rated for below water line Buy a jack plate from Bob's. I never understood a manual jack plate. If you don't need the adjustment often then just modify the transom to install the motor at the proper height. |
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Jack plates put the Motor on lever, more boat out of water faster boat goes. Also puts the prop in less turbulent water. Finding the sweet spot takes some trial and error you're drilling holes everytiime the transom would look like Swiss chees. I don't think I will need to drill any holes, the base of the jack plate *should* mount of perfectly with the holes already in place for the motor. |
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I don't think I will need to drill any holes, the base of the jack plate *should* mount of perfectly with the holes already in place for the motor. Quoted:
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Jack plates put the Motor on lever, more boat out of water faster boat goes. Also puts the prop in less turbulent water. Finding the sweet spot takes some trial and error you're drilling holes everytiime the transom would look like Swiss chees. I don't think I will need to drill any holes, the base of the jack plate *should* mount of perfectly with the holes already in place for the motor. No what he meant was that with the jack plate you don't have to drill new holes to get the engine higher if the standard AYBC/NMMA mounting location wasn't high enough. So, in essence you have infinite amount of height adjustments within a minimum and maximum range with out having to drill new holes into the transom because you have the adjustable jack plate. A hydraulic jack plate really shines if you fish in skinny water. It lets you raise the engine very high and then bury the tabs and get out on plane faster. If you don't fish skinny water, a manual is fine. |
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A hydraulic jack plate really shines if you fish in skinny water. It lets you raise the engine very high and then bury the tabs and get out on plane faster. If you don't fish skinny water, a manual is fine. No skinny water, only thing you have to really watch for where I fish is submerged structure. |
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No skinny water, only thing you have to really watch for where I fish is submerged structure. Quoted:
A hydraulic jack plate really shines if you fish in skinny water. It lets you raise the engine very high and then bury the tabs and get out on plane faster. If you don't fish skinny water, a manual is fine. No skinny water, only thing you have to really watch for where I fish is submerged structure. You will still him them, the jack plate won't fix that. |
| Yeah, no kidding. Buddy of mine and his dad managed to knock several small chunks of gel coat off his newish ProCraft a couple of months back on Lake Blackshear here in Georgia. Lake Oconee, where I primarily fish, isn't as shallow as Blackshear, but has a lot of standing timber in certain places that is now mostly all just below the surface. |
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Yeah, no kidding. Buddy of mine and his dad managed to knock several small chunks of gel coat off his newish ProCraft a couple of months back on Lake Blackshear here in Georgia. Lake Oconee, where I primarily fish, isn't as shallow as Blackshear, but has a lot of standing timber in certain places that is now mostly all just below the surface. that sucks. worst part is you normally can't see the timber in the water. |
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But, you can damned sure feel and hear it!!  Quoted:
that sucks. worst part is you normally can't see the timber in the water. But, you can damned sure feel and hear it!! I hit a log a few weeks back, scared the hell out of me. I thought I was going to look back and not see the engine. It took the boat off of plane and all. |