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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 7/7/2001 10:32:25 PM EST
Where is the best place/best brand for a safe? I don't need a very big one. I only have 5 firearms (3 long, 2 handgun) right now but my collection will continue to grow, slowly for a while, but I figure I wouldn't leave $2000 cash laying around, so why should guns be different. Or. . . . . . . . Have any of you outgrown your safe and would like to donate it to a needy college student?[:D] Thanks
Link Posted: 7/8/2001 6:17:47 AM EST
The best place would be MY place. [:D] Ya' know that was coming, didn't ya'? A bedroom, den or living room is best. Stay away from the areas where there is water vapor or flooding. Next to the bathroom is not so good. You do bathe/shower don't you? [;)] In the basement next to the water heater is a very bad place. Water heaters tend to flood places when they go out. Basements don't usually have good ventilation. Think; Stable temperatures, away from water vapor and ventilation. You're pretty lucky to be in Utah. There are several top manu. in the SLC area. Browning of course, and I think 2 or 3 others. Check them out. Homak and Stackon make sheet metal cabinets that may be more in line with your budget and room right now. Not a 'true' safe but better than leaning in a corner. Hope this answers some questions and helps out.
Link Posted: 7/8/2001 6:25:32 AM EST
Basements are great places for safes. The temperature is usually very constant down in the basement and usually a low humidity. Make sure you get something LARGER than you need or what you forsee. You WILL fill them up faster than you think. Don't get anything super large because it will be a pita to move. Maybe 800 pounds or so. Mine is 1500 and I needed 3 people with a pallet jack to move. Look at the fire rating. Look at Ft Knox, American Securities, Liberty, etc. Here is a page to start. [url]www.swiftsafes.com[/url] [url]www.deansafe.com/index.html[/url]
Link Posted: 7/8/2001 6:28:46 AM EST
Agreed on the ventiliation part and controlled temperature. Condensation's a bitch. I think a good idea would be to keep it very low profile. Don't advertize "gun safe in this house, come rob me" obviously. A closet or place it can't be seen through a window is a good place. Also especially with the cheap cabinets make sure it is secured to something. Screw it to the wall or bolt it to the floor. If they can't manipulate it very easily, there is less chance of taking the whole thing or busting the lock. Also buy bigger than you think you need. You could get the biggest one and will still fill it for some reason.
Link Posted: 7/8/2001 6:52:19 AM EST
Next to the grave of "Bill Carson"
Link Posted: 7/8/2001 7:01:47 AM EST
Link Posted: 7/8/2001 7:07:15 AM EST
I like the basement too, but my area is not flood prone.
Link Posted: 7/8/2001 7:11:58 AM EST
Originally Posted By Paul: Far more guns are burnt up than stolen.
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Now, I really can't disagree with fire resistance, both of my safes are fire resistant, one UL listed, one Omega. But, I would have to question the above statement. I have met at least several dozen folk, (I'm an RO) at the range and in life in general, work ect., that have had guns stolen. Can't recall anybody talking about them being burned up. It happens, I know, but I never hear from those folks. 1 in 4 homes will be burglarized. Do more homes than that burn down?
Link Posted: 7/8/2001 12:47:54 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/8/2001 12:47:15 PM EST by scottsw1]
My safes are in the upstairs bedroom. Close enough in time of trouble and in a very tightly controlled temp. area.
Link Posted: 7/8/2001 1:17:29 PM EST
How do you install a new safe in a pre-existing house? Assuming the safe is ~1000 lbs. [IMG]http://ubb.mcuzi.com/ubb/icons/icon71.gif[/IMG]
Link Posted: 7/9/2001 12:06:15 PM EST
Originally Posted By Janus: How do you install a new safe in a pre-existing house? Assuming the safe is ~1000 lbs. [IMG]http://ubb.mcuzi.com/ubb/icons/icon71.gif[/IMG]
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When they delivered my last safe, a Lincoln Model 50, (40 1/4"W X 72 1/4"H X 27 1/4"D) they brought it across my threshold with a pallet jack over a ramp. Getting it into my gun room was too tight for the pallet jack. So, they rolled it in on golf balls.
Link Posted: 7/9/2001 12:14:42 PM EST
Basement because they are heavy. If its not in the basement before the fire it WILL be there after it....
Link Posted: 7/9/2001 12:34:25 PM EST
i have mine in the closet. out of site that way i dont give people any ideas. cousre they couldnt open the damn thing if they tried.
Link Posted: 7/9/2001 12:36:11 PM EST
These things require a hole to be hammer drilled into the concrete then you tap them in place using a hammer. Drop a couple of flat washers on and then a bolt to tighten everything down. The trouble comes when it's time to move the safe as removing the bolts still leaves the studs sticking up from the floor - you'll have to struggle like crazy to get the safe up above the studs to remove it.
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Just drill the hole all the way through the concrete. When its time to move the safe beat the studs through the concrete using another bolt. Then you can slide the safe, instead of picking straight up over the studs.
Link Posted: 7/9/2001 1:03:01 PM EST
Originally Posted By ECS: Basement because they are heavy. If its not in the basement before the fire it WILL be there after it....
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Ahh, so very true. I'd hate to be a fireman and have a safe hit me in the head when it falls through the ceiling.
Link Posted: 7/9/2001 1:04:45 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/9/2001 1:02:06 PM EST by Jack-B-Nymble]
There is also a concrete fastener called a Tap-Con. They are concrete screws that work very well. The larger ones are 1/4" x 3 1/2". Just drill a 3/16" hole, no need for a hammer drill, just get a good quality concrete bit, like a Bosch. Then use a driver to drive the Tap-Con into the concrete. They can be backed out when it is time to remove them and they are strong.
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