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Posted: 8/15/2017 4:05:55 PM EST
[#1]
PB Blaster - Let it sit for a couple of days and get a chance to penetrate.
Warm Engine Impact Gun - Yes, Really. The sharp blow tends to break things loose and free them up rather than dragging the threads out with the socket. |
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Posted: 8/15/2017 4:08:42 PM EST
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
PB Blaster - Let it sit for a couple of days and get a chance to penetrate. Warm Engine Impact Gun - Yes, Really. The sharp blow tends to break things loose and free them up rather than dragging the threads out with the socket. |
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Posted: 8/15/2017 4:20:41 PM EST
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
PB Blaster - Let it sit for a couple of days and get a chance to penetrate. Warm Engine Impact Gun - Yes, Really. The sharp blow tends to break things loose and free them up rather than dragging the threads out with the socket. |
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Posted: 8/15/2017 4:22:54 PM EST
[#4]
Blast the crap out first, Kroil oil a few times a couple of days in advance. Get a good socket and gently turn back and forth to break tension. Impact is next if by hand doesn't work.
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Posted: 8/15/2017 8:53:05 PM EST
[#5]
Don't do anything special. Just unscrew them with a ratchet and a spark plug socket. They won't be stuck in there and will come out without issue.
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Posted: 8/15/2017 10:07:49 PM EST
[#6]
i dont believe in hoodoo and secret rituals for spark plug removal. not even on 5.4 3v's. its gonna break/strip the head out or it wont. if it does you can put an insert in so yard that bitch out already.
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Posted: 8/15/2017 10:27:19 PM EST
[#7]
A 2006? I doubt you'll have any issues. Is spark plug threads stripping a common problem on Toyotas like the 4.6 late 90's Ford 4.6? If not just get out there with a real spark plug socket, a ratchet and have at it.
I've pulled plugs out of many a GM that was 10+ years old on original plugs or had 100K on the original set and each time they came out without issue with just using the plug socket and ratchet. PB blaster, only use that as a last resort as that shit will get everywhere AND you don't want that on your exhaust, it will smoke like a sum bitch when the manifold warms up. Also you don't want to be working on a hot engine unless you like 2nd degree burns. Cold engine, plug socket + ratchet and you're good. Now the plug wires, well if those are original those will probably come apart if tugged on too hard. But you should be putting new ones on anyways. good luck. |
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Posted: 8/16/2017 8:06:50 AM EST
[#8]
Thanks for the thoughts.
I'll let you know what I decide, and how it turned out...That way somebody can say "You shoulda used PB Blaster like I tol' ya!" or " See? You didn't need that PB Blaster. It's always a waste of time and money!" |
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Posted: 8/16/2017 8:30:07 AM EST
[#9]
My 06 4runner's came out fine at 120k
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Posted: 8/16/2017 9:11:09 AM EST
[#10]
My '06 has 257,000miles on it. I bought it with 90K on it. I do q 5K mile oil changes with full synthetic oil, and it's been a problem-free rig (except it eats brakes) until this point.
I am a dumbass for not doing this sooner, I know. I had an intermittent misfire on cyl.#2. I removed that plug and it looked like it had a 1/4" gap. Possibly original plugs? Anyway, it did not come out easy. As in, I couldn't just break it loose and then spin the extension by hand. I needed the ratchet and some elbow grease. I put the new plug in and all was well for a month or so. I was cautious about changing the other five because of how hard the #2 plug came out. Now I have a misfire on cyl#4, so I am going to change all the plugs, and possibly all the coils. I am just nervous about stripping out the head. |
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Posted: 8/16/2017 9:20:00 AM EST
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My '06 has 257,000miles on it. I bought it with 90K on it. I do q 5K mile oil changes with full synthetic oil, and it's been a problem-free rig (except it eats brakes) until this point. I am a dumbass for not doing this sooner, I know. I had an intermittent misfire on cyl.#2. I removed that plug and it looked like it had a 1/4" gap. Possibly original plugs? Anyway, it did not come out easy. As in, I couldn't just break it loose and then spin the extension by hand. I needed the ratchet and some elbow grease. I put the new plug in and all was well for a month or so. I was cautious about changing the other five because of how hard the #2 plug came out. Now I have a misfire on cyl#4, so I am going to change all the plugs, and possibly all the coils. I am just nervous about stripping out the head. |
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Posted: 8/16/2017 4:19:56 PM EST
[#12]
Our aircraft mechanics use Kroil. It seems to work well for them.
I'd go ahead and spray your plugs with it. Doubt u will have any issues, but I can appreciate the nail biting. Good luck. |
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Posted: 8/16/2017 6:48:19 PM EST
[#13]
I got a Toyota with a 2.7 from my dad. I think he must have He-man'd those bitches as tight as he could. I had to use a long breaker bar. PB blaster wouldn't have helped. The valve cover spark plug seals had failed and each one was full of oil already.
Like another poster already said, they'll either strip or they won't. |
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Posted: 8/17/2017 9:17:35 AM EST
[#14]
warm engine vs. cold? Stone cold
PB Blaster/other penetrant? Yes Spark plug socket in freezer? Wut? etc? Also just barely break loose- like a 16th of a turn. Shoot a little more penetrant in and let sit a while. Turn back in then ease back out. I do Fords this way and luckily haven't had a problem. Good luck. |
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Posted: 8/17/2017 10:16:45 AM EST
[#15]
if it's your daily driver..spray them in the evening and let it soak over night..plan the swap for a day you aren't working.
I always spray the plugs in anything with an aluminum head and put anti seize on the new plugs. |
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Posted: 8/17/2017 3:14:13 PM EST
[#16]
Turn them back and fourth so you help break the carbon loose around the end.
Use antisieze when you put them back in. Don't get any on the spark plug end. It can cause it to short out to the base and cause a miss fire. |
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Posted: 8/18/2017 8:04:03 PM EST
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You won't. It'll be fine. I ended up not doing anything other than putting the socket on in and turning them out. They came out just fine! Put new plugs in and the misfire hasn't happened again...So far. |
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Posted: 8/18/2017 8:12:53 PM EST
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You were right! I ended up not doing anything other than putting the socket on in and turning them out. They came out just fine! Put new plugs in and the misfire hasn't happened again...So far. 
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Posted: 8/18/2017 8:22:48 PM EST
[#19]
DO NOT USE AN IMPACT THAT IS LIKE A LAST RESORT KIND OF THING.
Just take them out with the engine not hot. If you get a stuck plug, spray it with on and let it soak for a minute. If it backs out tight then turn it in and out while coming out. If it's tight but also tight when trying to turn it back in, only back it out don't turn it back on. I do this work to put food on the table I rarely ever encounter a spark plugs that's stuck unless it's cross threaded. |
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Posted: 8/18/2017 8:30:27 PM EST
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't do anything special. Just unscrew them with a ratchet and a spark plug socket. They won't be stuck in there and will come out without issue. |
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Posted: 8/18/2017 9:52:16 PM EST
[#21]
?
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Posted: 8/18/2017 10:15:29 PM EST
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
People way over think spark plugs, I have a land Rover lr3 that is supposedly ridiculously hard to do plugs on, it took me maybe an hour. Just apply steady pressure and if you're using iridium plugs anti sieze isn't needed :) |
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Posted: 8/18/2017 10:55:00 PM EST
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How does the center electrode tip material dictate if anti seize should be used between the threads of the plug and cylinder head. Steel plug in to aluminum cylinder head = anti seize regardless of center electrode tip material. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
People way over think spark plugs, I have a land Rover lr3 that is supposedly ridiculously hard to do plugs on, it took me maybe an hour. Just apply steady pressure and if you're using iridium plugs anti sieze isn't needed :) |
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Posted: 8/19/2017 8:27:22 AM EST
[#24]
I put anti seize on plugs.
Changing those weird Ford plugs do take some unusual methods. Conventional plugs don't take any weird or unusual removal techniques. |
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Posted: 8/19/2017 4:02:48 PM EST
[#25]
I definitely did put antisieze on the new ones!
Here are the old ones. 5th from the left is the one I put in a couple months ago.  Attached File |
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Posted: 8/19/2017 4:14:41 PM EST
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I definitely did put antisieze on the new ones! Here are the old ones. 5th from the left is the one I put in a couple months ago. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/11452/DSCF5306-284586.JPG |
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Posted: 8/20/2017 5:15:15 AM EST
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I definitely did put antisieze on the new ones! Here are the old ones. 5th from the left is the one I put in a couple months ago. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/11452/DSCF5306-284586.JPG |
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Posted: 8/20/2017 8:50:13 AM EST
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Dat plug gap doh |
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Posted: 8/20/2017 6:05:46 PM EST
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's iridium. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Dat plug gap doh |
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Posted: 8/20/2017 10:28:38 PM EST
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Iridium doesn't require a .250 plug gap, lol! All the plugs look normal given the miles. The OP replaced one and it's the iridium plug 5th from the left. It has a normal gap. |
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Posted: 8/21/2017 5:14:17 AM EST
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Are you referring to all the plugs or just the 5th one from the left? All the plugs look normal given the miles. The OP replaced one and it's the iridium plug 5th from the left. It has a normal gap. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Iridium doesn't require a .250 plug gap, lol! All the plugs look normal given the miles. The OP replaced one and it's the iridium plug 5th from the left. It has a normal gap. |
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Posted: 8/21/2017 7:11:58 AM EST
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You're saying the gap on all of them are fine? Other than the one that's been replaced, they are worn out. It those are iridium, they are worried to the point they look like resistors, and then some. At least, that's what I took his comments to mean. |
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Posted: 8/21/2017 7:45:35 AM EST
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't want to put words in ColtRifle's mouth, but I think he means that plugs 1-4 and 6 look like you would expect plugs to look if they had 100,000+ miles on them. Not "fine" but "typical for the mileage." At least, that's what I took his comments to mean. |
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Posted: 8/21/2017 8:05:24 AM EST
[#34]
No, the plug gap is pretty big! It was no wonder there were misfires!
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Posted: 8/21/2017 9:55:13 AM EST
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
He has an odd way of correcting a comment made in jest then. Do you consider "dat plug go doh" to need any form of extra consideration, lol? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I don't want to put words in ColtRifle's mouth, but I think he means that plugs 1-4 and 6 look like you would expect plugs to look if they had 100,000+ miles on them. Not "fine" but "typical for the mileage." At least, that's what I took his comments to mean. Your post would have made more sense if you used English. Based on the appearance of the plugs, the engine is clearly healthy. The plugs are tired but the rings, valves, and valve seats are clearly working as designed. |
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Posted: 8/21/2017 5:09:59 PM EST
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
AGreyMan got it right. Your post would have made more sense if you used English. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I don't want to put words in ColtRifle's mouth, but I think he means that plugs 1-4 and 6 look like you would expect plugs to look if they had 100,000+ miles on them. Not "fine" but "typical for the mileage." At least, that's what I took his comments to mean. Your post would have made more sense if you used English. |
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Posted: 8/21/2017 5:22:48 PM EST
[#37]
I wouldnt use antiseize.
NGK specifically says to not use it on their plugs as they already have a coating to aid in removal and antiseize affects torque values. https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/spark-plug-101/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 12:07:04 AM EST
[#38]
deleted
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Posted: 8/23/2017 12:11:38 AM EST
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I wouldnt use antiseize. NGK specifically says to not use it on their plugs as they already have a coating to aid in removal and antiseize affects torque values. https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/spark-plug-101/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 12:42:54 AM EST
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't do anything special. Just unscrew them with a ratchet and a spark plug socket. They won't be stuck in there and will come out without issue. |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 12:59:23 AM EST
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How does the center electrode tip material dictate if anti seize should be used between the threads of the plug and cylinder head. Steel plug in to aluminum cylinder head = anti seize regardless of center electrode tip material. |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 1:15:10 AM EST
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
who the fuck torques a spark plug. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I wouldnt use antiseize. NGK specifically says to not use it on their plugs as they already have a coating to aid in removal and antiseize affects torque values. https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/spark-plug-101/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 1:18:15 AM EST
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I do. |
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