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Posted: 2/18/2024 8:32:36 PM EDT
[#1]
I think that stuff got started when full syn came out,and was just a WAG.
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Posted: 2/18/2024 8:34:02 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This makes possible sense to me but I don't know. In for the entertainment and eventual correct answer. He is correct. |
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Posted: 2/18/2024 8:34:08 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That theory predates the internet. 1969? Doubt it. |
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Posted: 2/18/2024 8:41:55 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Avon rep? Sorry. Amsoil rep? lol I never buy their shit but that doesn’t stop them from coming by and dropping off price lists and refrigerator magnets |
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Posted: 2/18/2024 8:46:04 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I sold the Evo several years ago, but I'm thinking about a generator Shovel just for something to Cometic does make gaskets for Shovels but they won’t be like the ones I’m taking about I would recommend James cylinder base and head gaskets, they’re a steel gasket with a silicone bead  Attached File |
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Posted: 2/18/2024 8:48:45 PM EDT
[#6]
It flows better. So if your gasket seals are bad well then it flows better there too
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Posted: 2/18/2024 8:53:30 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It flows better. So if your gasket seals are bad well then it flows better there too … explain how it “flows better”? |
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Posted: 2/18/2024 9:01:17 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: … explain how it “flows better”? Are you by any chance “the motor oil geek” on YouTube? Found that channel today. |
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Posted: 2/18/2024 9:02:14 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I gotta let the wrong answers go for a bit. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: fuckin' a, dood. came here to @ you.  I gotta let the wrong answers go for a bit. Hunting over bait  |
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Posted: 2/18/2024 9:02:19 PM EDT
[#10]
Define old. I have been using some sort of synthetic since the late 80s early 90s. I presently have two vehicles over 100k miles.
I'm not saying I have never had an oil leak. The ones I had could have been anything, synthetic or not. It is at the bottom of the list of things I worry about. |
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Posted: 2/18/2024 9:03:53 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: … explain how it “flows better”? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: It flows better. So if your gasket seals are bad well then it flows better there too … explain how it “flows better”? Explain magnets. You can't!
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Posted: 2/18/2024 9:05:08 PM EDT
[#12]
Meh...park in the yard on top of the fire ant mounds or weeds you don't want to mow and let the sumbitch leak.
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Posted: 2/18/2024 9:06:08 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Are you by any chance “the motor oil geek” on YouTube? Found that channel today. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: … explain how it “flows better”? Are you by any chance “the motor oil geek” on YouTube? Found that channel today. No. But Lake Speed Jr and I hold the same certifications - primarily we are both STLE - CLS. (There’s about ~1000 of us in the world.) Which is the highest you can get in the industry without going into speciality ones. Such as metal working or greases. I’ll probably sit for the NLGI - CLGS exam this year or next year for the hell of it. TL;DR - we both know what we’re talking about, and a bunch of people certified that we know what we’re talking about. He got into lubricants through racing. I got into it because my family has been doing it for 105 years. We see very different parts of the overall industry. I see the very upper levels of the entire industry. Who makes what, who’s moving things here or there, new technology, new formulations for price / performance / etc. New specification and what they mean. Changes in base oils. Etc. His experience is going to be more on the R&D, testing ends of thing. Seeing the latest and greatest lab work for race engines. Not talking and hanging out with the owners of a company that blends and packages ~50 million gallons a year of PCEO. Or seeing study data of 40 million mile on road HDEO testing. I spent last week hunting in TX with one of the largest toll blenders in the U.S. - for example. The week before, I was at another blender touring their new packaging facility they’re putting together. And got to see their new VI solubility line. Where as he’s more nuanced in formulations specifically for racing engines. Where as, I would be much more familiar with hydraulic oils, gear oils, HDEO. I view PCEO (passenger car engine oil) as sort of just a set thing. If it meets the check boxes for certification it’s fine. |
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Posted: 2/18/2024 9:07:15 PM EDT
[#14]
absolutely true
without question |
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Posted: 2/18/2024 9:07:21 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Meh...park in the yard on top of the fire ant mounds or weeds you don't want to mow and let the sumbitch leak. We know you mean straddle the ditch.
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Posted: 2/18/2024 9:07:22 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Explain magnets. You can't! That's different. Everyone knows that placing magnets along your fuel line increase gas mileage. 
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Posted: 2/18/2024 9:08:19 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: We know you mean straddle the ditch. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Meh...park in the yard on top of the fire ant mounds or weeds you don't want to mow and let the sumbitch leak. We know you mean straddle the ditch. Nooooo....the ditch is for changing oil. |
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Posted: 2/18/2024 9:09:16 PM EDT
[#18]
Tagged for when Foxtrot08 finally has his fill of stupidity.
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Posted: 2/18/2024 9:10:34 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That's different. Everyone knows that placing magnets along your fuel line increase gas mileage. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Explain magnets. You can't! That's different. Everyone knows that placing magnets along your fuel line increase gas mileage. And cloths pins on the fuel line keep it from vapor locking |
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Posted: 2/18/2024 9:10:48 PM EDT
[#20]
It either leaks oil or it doesn’t. Has nothing to do with using synthetic.
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Posted: 2/18/2024 9:15:11 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No. But Lake Speed Jr and I hold the same certifications - primarily we are both STLE - CLS. (There’s about ~1000 of us in the world.) Which is the highest you can get in the industry without going into speciality ones. Such as metal working or greases. I’ll probably sit for the NLGI - CLGS exam this year or next year for the hell of it. He got into lubricants through racing. I got into it because my family has been doing it for 105 years. We see very different parts of the overall industry. I see the very upper levels of the entire industry. Who makes what, who’s moving things here or there, new technology, new formulations for price / performance / etc. New specification and what they mean. Changes in base oils. Etc. His experience is going to be more on the R&D, testing ends of thing. Seeing the latest and greatest lab work for race engines. Not talking and hanging out with the owners of a company that blends and packages ~50 million gallons a year of PCEO. I spent last week hunting in TX with one of the largest toll blenders in the U.S. - for example. The week before, I was at another blender touring their new packaging facility they’re putting together. And got to see their new VI solubility line. Where as he’s more nuanced in formulations specifically for racing engines. Where as, I would be much more familiar with hydraulic oils, gear oils, HDEO. I view PCEO (passenger car engine oil) as sort of just a set thing. If it meets the check boxes for certification it’s fine. Awesome. The video I watched of his reminded me of some of your posts here…very educational. Thanks for being open to sharing your knowledge with us. |
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Posted: 2/18/2024 9:20:25 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 1969? Doubt it. ...there's always one... At least someone reads what I post. |
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Posted: 2/18/2024 9:31:57 PM EDT
[#23]
Okay page 2:
The answer is Yes and No. Oil compatibility with seals is a complicated subject matter.  To give you an idea… Primarily, pre~1980’s - with a few, few exceptions beyond that, it could be an issue. It is however just not limited to synthetic oils. They just made it more of an issue.  Different types of “synthetic” oils. Cork, Felt and certain types of rubber gasket materials are incompatible with synthetic oils and also, normal oils. Because you don’t want “like” products together. If the glue is oil based, or the material is oil based - then chances are, oil will eat it over time. Through heat cycles and such. The chemical compositions will bleed. And you will either have cracking, or shrinkage in various ways as the material “dries out.” This has mostly all since gone away. Any leak discovered by a “synthetic” oil today, has existed there. The definition of Synthetic oil in the U.S. got changed in the 1990s anyways. Group 3 base stocks are now considered “full synthetic” in the U.S. where previously it would have been limited to PAO and Esters. The above chart will help show the pros and cons to the different base oil types. Then you can compare them with seal compatibility beyond that. A car in the 90s? No bro, an off the shelf group 3 synthetic won’t make it leak anymore than a group 2 “conventional” based product. Even almost all of those are blends now in some way. If your shit develops a leak, it’s because it’s 30 years old and trying to buy a house. My 1948 International T6 crawler gets a synthetic blend 15w40. It’s leaked oil since before I was born. It’s probably going to leak oil after I die. |
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Posted: 2/18/2024 9:40:36 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Isn't it a seal issue? Gaskets, seals all break down over time. And note, it has less to do with miles than age. |
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Posted: 2/18/2024 10:15:14 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Okay page 2: The answer is Yes and No. Oil compatibility with seals is a complicated subject matter. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/IMG_4054-3133835.jpg To give you an idea… Primarily, pre~1980’s - with a few, few exceptions beyond that, it could be an issue. It is however just not limited to synthetic oils. They just made it more of an issue. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/baseoils-532924.jpg Different types of “synthetic” oils. Cork, Felt and certain types of rubber gasket materials are incompatible with synthetic oils and also, normal oils. Because you don’t want “like” products together. If the glue is oil based, or the material is oil based - then chances are, oil will eat it over time. Through heat cycles and such. The chemical compositions will bleed. And you will either have cracking, or shrinkage in various ways as the material “dries out.” This has mostly all since gone away. Any leak discovered by a “synthetic” oil today, has existed there. The definition of Synthetic oil in the U.S. got changed in the 1990s anyways. Group 3 base stocks are now considered “full synthetic” in the U.S. where previously it would have been limited to PAO and Esters. The above chart will help show the pros and cons to the different base oil types. Then you can compare them with seal compatibility beyond that. A car in the 90s? No bro, an off the shelf group 3 synthetic won’t make it leak anymore than a group 2 “conventional” based product. Even almost all of those are blends now in some way. If your shit develops a leak, it’s because it’s 30 years old and trying to buy a house. My 1948 International T6 crawler gets a synthetic blend 15w40. It’s leaked oil since before I was born. It’s probably going to leak oil after I die. |
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Posted: 2/18/2024 10:36:54 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Don't overthink this, an oil LEAK is just an inexpensive, slow-motion OIL Change. Top up the oil level as required, slap a new filter on every year or so, and drive on. Pretty much this. 1983 Ford F150 i6 4x4. A quart of oil every tank of fuel. Front main seal leaks bad, but oil coats the bottom of the truck to stop salt rust! |
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Posted: 2/18/2024 10:42:51 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That's different. Everyone knows that placing magnets along your fuel line increase gas mileage. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Explain magnets. You can't! That's different. Everyone knows that placing magnets along your fuel line increase gas mileage. The former owner of the truck dealership I worked at had a magnetic wrap on the fuel line of his diesel Mercedes because as he told me. The magnets excite the fuel molecules and it gets better mileage.. I thought he was full of poop but it is his car he can do what he wants. |
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Posted: 2/18/2024 10:45:53 PM EDT
[#28]
Back in the 90s in the corvette forums for C3 vets a lot of people complained about this situation.
I have no first hand experience with this, but did see some of the guys with these issues were people who I seen working on cars. With that said I am talking about 70s era cars |
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Posted: 2/18/2024 10:46:45 PM EDT
[#29]
I was a porsche tech in the 90's and it is 100% true in multiple cases I have seen.
Even in my own car back then, a bone dry 1986 944 developed leaks everywhere after using the shops oil which was Mobil 1 synthetic. |
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Posted: 2/19/2024 7:55:49 AM EDT
[#30]
@Foxtrot08 While we’ve got you here, is there any truth to the claim that synthetic oil “burns dirtier”?
On Mazda’s Wankel rotary cars, there is a system in place that draws a small amount of oil from the sump and injects it into the combustion chambers. I’ve seen claims on forums that cars with this system in place shouldn’t run synthetic oil since it supposedly burns dirtier compared to conventional. Any nugget of truth to this or just forum myth? |
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Posted: 2/19/2024 8:35:17 AM EDT
[#31]
I ran Mobil 1 in my 1990 F150 up to 251,000 miles (screwed up and traded it in) with zero leaks.
The 2000 Cherokee Sport (sold about 4 years ago) had 136,000 miles on it. Zero leaks. The 2005 Silverado (sold two years ago) had 125,000 miles on it. Zero leaks. Only car I've got that leaked oil (in the last 20 years) never had synthetic oil in it. |
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Posted: 2/19/2024 8:42:54 AM EDT
[#32]
full synthetic and only change it at 20k with no problems
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Posted: 2/19/2024 8:54:21 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/Fat_baby_laughs-777.gif Gee Dee: where the dumbest motherfuckers in the world argue with the smartest people on the planet. /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/jerryPopcorn-685.gif Both can be SMEs in their respective fields. |
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Posted: 2/19/2024 9:06:39 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @Foxtrot08 While we’ve got you here, is there any truth to the claim that synthetic oil “burns dirtier”? On Mazda’s Wankel rotary cars, there is a system in place that draws a small amount of oil from the sump and injects it into the combustion chambers. I’ve seen claims on forums that cars with this system in place shouldn’t run synthetic oil since it supposedly burns dirtier compared to conventional. Any nugget of truth to this or just forum myth? It doesn’t burn dirtier. It just burns a little more different. You’re generally going to have less cold flow additive, maybe less VII polymers in it. Etc. And it will be harder to burn. But not necessarily dirtier. |
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Posted: 2/19/2024 9:12:45 AM EDT
[#35]
Some seal materials in some vehicles might leak with synthetic oil. Either a little or a lot. Maybe. Maybe not.
I made the swith in several autos with no issues at all. My 1985 Harley head gasket leaked with synthetic. I switched back and forth several times to see if that really was the case, and it was. But the car/truck engines were not affected. Make the switch, OP. My experience says it won't be a big deal. Switch back to regular if you have any problems. W-Mart brand has non-synthetic. YMMV. |
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Posted: 2/19/2024 9:19:01 AM EDT
[#36]
One of the problem was the synthetic cleaning out all the gum and carbon that was helping the seal keep the oil in.
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Posted: 2/19/2024 9:24:40 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Okay page 2: The answer is Yes and No. Oil compatibility with seals is a complicated subject matter. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/IMG_4054-3133835.jpg To give you an idea… Primarily, pre~1980’s - with a few, few exceptions beyond that, it could be an issue. It is however just not limited to synthetic oils. They just made it more of an issue. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/baseoils-532924.jpg Different types of “synthetic” oils. Cork, Felt and certain types of rubber gasket materials are incompatible with synthetic oils and also, normal oils. Because you don’t want “like” products together. If the glue is oil based, or the material is oil based - then chances are, oil will eat it over time. Through heat cycles and such. The chemical compositions will bleed. And you will either have cracking, or shrinkage in various ways as the material “dries out.” This has mostly all since gone away. Any leak discovered by a “synthetic” oil today, has existed there. The definition of Synthetic oil in the U.S. got changed in the 1990s anyways. Group 3 base stocks are now considered “full synthetic” in the U.S. where previously it would have been limited to PAO and Esters. The above chart will help show the pros and cons to the different base oil types. Then you can compare them with seal compatibility beyond that. A car in the 90s? No bro, an off the shelf group 3 synthetic won’t make it leak anymore than a group 2 “conventional” based product. Even almost all of those are blends now in some way. If your shit develops a leak, it’s because it’s 30 years old and trying to buy a house. My 1948 International T6 crawler gets a synthetic blend 15w40. It’s leaked oil since before I was born. It’s probably going to leak oil after I die. @Foxtrot08 Does the potential for a leak with x vs. y oil only involve the gasket material? Does viscosity of a fluid not play a part. As the chart provided below you see the fluid viscosity change depending on the SAE rating. On the surface it seems a synthetic oil has a greater chance to leak. Especially something like a 0-10 synthetic oil. Like many before me I have the upper oil pan seepage on my powerstroke. With a 15-40 oil it’s almost nonexistent. A 10-40 synthetic it is more pronounced.  Attached File |
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Posted: 2/19/2024 9:34:33 AM EDT
[#38]
03 Jeep TJ had been conventional oil. Had a small oil leak. (Flat tappet)
Switched to Mobile 1, instantly the startup rattle disappeared. Engine might a a little more wet than before. But, the lack of startup rattle has to be better for the engine in the long run. |
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Posted: 2/19/2024 9:44:53 AM EDT
[#39]
Sort of true. Synthetic oil will clean your engine sludge up, it has a lot of detergent in it. If you happen to have an engine that crap build up is the only thing keeping it form leaking then switching to synthetic could cause a leak. But you have way bigger problems anyway...
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Posted: 2/19/2024 10:00:57 AM EDT
[#40]
OST for Foxtrot08's knowledge.
Modern cars it don't matter. I had an 06 Mazda 6 that leaked like crazy out of the valve cover, and it was only ever ran on dino. I have an 09 Wrangler with the old 3.8 that's known to leak. Typically they leak from the lower or upper pan, timing cover, valve covers, at the back bellow the intake manifold etc... I have maybe a light seepage in it, and it's being fed super tech full synthetic. Don't know what was in it before I bought it, but it's pretty damn dry. Tranny pan leaked like crazy though... and the front axle seals My daily '11 Scion TC (toyota 2.5 4 banger) is dry as a bone at almost 140k with full synthetic 0w20. I also had at various points a '95 Caravan, '94 Olds Cutlass, and '00 Malibu that never leaked a drop. They were ~230k, 150k, and 280k respectively on their final clock and they got whatever oil was on sale at auto zone, so dino, blend, or full synth at random times. |
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Posted: 2/19/2024 10:27:48 AM EDT
[#41]
This reminds me, I'm overdue to change the oil.
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Posted: 2/19/2024 10:43:41 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Isn't it a seal issue? Gaskets, seals all break down over time. This. if your working on a vehicle from 1994 you have to acknowledge that the factory seals are not new and are 30 years old. so its probably a 30 year old seal causing a problem and not synthetic oil. |
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Posted: 2/19/2024 10:58:15 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That theory predates the internet. If something is leaking bad enough to bother me it is not due to the oil. It is time for me to change the seal. I would try AT-205 first if the seal is hard to access. |
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Posted: 2/19/2024 11:24:23 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Tagged for when Foxtrot08 finally has his fill of stupidity. Me too. He spoke. |
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Posted: 2/20/2024 4:12:25 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @Foxtrot08 Does the potential for a leak with x vs. y oil only involve the gasket material? Does viscosity of a fluid not play a part. As the chart provided below you see the fluid viscosity change depending on the SAE rating. On the surface it seems a synthetic oil has a greater chance to leak. Especially something like a 0-10 synthetic oil. Like many before me I have the upper oil pan seepage on my powerstroke. With a 15-40 oil it’s almost nonexistent. A 10-40 synthetic it is more pronounced. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/146093/IMG_1898_png-3134175.JPG Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Okay page 2: The answer is Yes and No. Oil compatibility with seals is a complicated subject matter. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/IMG_4054-3133835.jpg To give you an idea… Primarily, pre~1980’s - with a few, few exceptions beyond that, it could be an issue. It is however just not limited to synthetic oils. They just made it more of an issue. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/baseoils-532924.jpg Different types of “synthetic” oils. Cork, Felt and certain types of rubber gasket materials are incompatible with synthetic oils and also, normal oils. Because you don’t want “like” products together. If the glue is oil based, or the material is oil based - then chances are, oil will eat it over time. Through heat cycles and such. The chemical compositions will bleed. And you will either have cracking, or shrinkage in various ways as the material “dries out.” This has mostly all since gone away. Any leak discovered by a “synthetic” oil today, has existed there. The definition of Synthetic oil in the U.S. got changed in the 1990s anyways. Group 3 base stocks are now considered “full synthetic” in the U.S. where previously it would have been limited to PAO and Esters. The above chart will help show the pros and cons to the different base oil types. Then you can compare them with seal compatibility beyond that. A car in the 90s? No bro, an off the shelf group 3 synthetic won’t make it leak anymore than a group 2 “conventional” based product. Even almost all of those are blends now in some way. If your shit develops a leak, it’s because it’s 30 years old and trying to buy a house. My 1948 International T6 crawler gets a synthetic blend 15w40. It’s leaked oil since before I was born. It’s probably going to leak oil after I die. @Foxtrot08 Does the potential for a leak with x vs. y oil only involve the gasket material? Does viscosity of a fluid not play a part. As the chart provided below you see the fluid viscosity change depending on the SAE rating. On the surface it seems a synthetic oil has a greater chance to leak. Especially something like a 0-10 synthetic oil. Like many before me I have the upper oil pan seepage on my powerstroke. With a 15-40 oil it’s almost nonexistent. A 10-40 synthetic it is more pronounced. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/146093/IMG_1898_png-3134175.JPG  Well, at operating temperatures they’re both 40w. And the difference between a 10w40 and a 15w40, to the human touch would be almost unnoticeable. Especially when you’re looking at outside characteristics like temperature. Seeing one at 40F vs 70F.  To give you some idea of how close they are. I would say if you have a leak, between those products, it’s more a matter of temperature changes than which would leak more or less. That being said, 10w40 is almost exclusively a PCEO application. Where 15w40 is almost exclusively an HDEO application. And the 15w40 formulation is probably going to be better over all and “clean” more. Which, could get stuff out of any cracks or seals. Which may leak more. The difference between an oil being 33-35cst @ 40c vs 25-28cst @ 40c is going to be very small, in how “thin” it is. Which is one of the reasons 10w40 has sort of died off. |
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Posted: 2/20/2024 4:15:53 PM EDT
[#46]
I would be more concerned with your lifters then a small oil leak. The new oils are all designed with roller lifters or overhead cams in mind. If you have an older pushrod engine use conventional diesel oil like Rotella.
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Posted: 2/20/2024 5:02:33 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I would be more concerned with your lifters then a small oil leak. The new oils are all designed with roller lifters or overhead cams in mind. If you have an older pushrod engine use conventional diesel oil like Rotella. We rehashed this about a month ago, but there's more ways to build an additive package that protects lifters than 1930s ZDDP. Most modern OHC engines don't have rollers, and have very similar forces on cam lobes as pushrod engines with the cam wiping across flat mechanical bucket. There's also explicit API backwards compatibility testing with a 1980s design pushrod engine, so newer oil is designed with older pushrod engines in mind. Unless its a hotrod with an aggressive cam/valve springs, its not going to matter if you run regular passenger car oil. If it IS a hotrod engine that's got insane loading levels on a flat tappet cam, its time for a specialty oil. |
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Posted: 2/20/2024 5:18:19 PM EDT
[#48]
Foxtrot is right. Have worked on northward of 16K vehicles in my life.
60's70's80's vehicles yes, newer not so much. The deal was you did not use synthetic oil until those motors had 10K miles or a little better or the motor would not "break-in" properly for lack of a better term. After 10K it's GTG. And you did not want to start a vehicle on synthetic if it had over 100K miles, the deal is you already have leaks, but basically sludge accumulates in those areas and stops it from leaking. When you added synthetic to 'em, it promptly ate up that sludge and leaks started. |
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Posted: 2/20/2024 5:56:45 PM EDT
[#49]
Quoted: I ask because it seems as if dino oil is getting harder to find. Used Penzoil 10w-30 in the old truck since 1994, then last year I switched to Valvoline because I couldn't find non synth Penzoil. Today I bought Quaker State because I couldn't find Valvoline. Anyway, is there any truth to synth causing oil leaks, or in my case, worse oil leaks? (old Dakota has always had a slight oil leak) |
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Posted: 2/21/2024 7:50:55 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No. But Lake Speed Jr and I hold the same certifications - primarily we are both STLE - CLS. (There’s about ~1000 of us in the world.) Which is the highest you can get in the industry without going into speciality ones. Such as metal working or greases. I’ll probably sit for the NLGI - CLGS exam this year or next year for the hell of it. TL;DR - we both know what we’re talking about, and a bunch of people certified that we know what we’re talking about. He got into lubricants through racing. I got into it because my family has been doing it for 105 years. We see very different parts of the overall industry. I see the very upper levels of the entire industry. Who makes what, who’s moving things here or there, new technology, new formulations for price / performance / etc. New specification and what they mean. Changes in base oils. Etc. His experience is going to be more on the R&D, testing ends of thing. Seeing the latest and greatest lab work for race engines. Not talking and hanging out with the owners of a company that blends and packages ~50 million gallons a year of PCEO. Or seeing study data of 40 million mile on road HDEO testing. I spent last week hunting in TX with one of the largest toll blenders in the U.S. - for example. The week before, I was at another blender touring their new packaging facility they’re putting together. And got to see their new VI solubility line. Where as he’s more nuanced in formulations specifically for racing engines. Where as, I would be much more familiar with hydraulic oils, gear oils, HDEO. I view PCEO (passenger car engine oil) as sort of just a set thing. If it meets the check boxes for certification it’s fine. Impressive credentials and experience, outstanding knowledge sharing. We’re blessed to have you here @Foxtrot08 ! 
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