[ARCHIVED THREAD] - A Question for Model Builders.... (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 9/22/2009 3:55:41 PM EDT
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What kind of glue/cement do you use?
I've heard that professional model makers never use tube glue. Aside from the bottles of brush-on liquid cement, what other options are there that won't make a mess? I'd like to get back into model building someday, and this is something that's been rattling around in my head lately. Thanks. |
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I always use Tester's in the tube. But, I use a syringe to extract + apply the cement. This is the problem with viscous glues...they ADD material, and when a syringe is used, it's often not for long because the glue tends to clog after awhile. For almost all plastics (except PVC), methylene chloride is king. It is usually applied with a toothpick, or a small squeeze bottle with a syringe-style, blunt needle. Methylene Chloride is not actually a glue, it has no solids. It is actually a solvent that allows the plastic to weld to itself. |
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Generally the Testors liquid in the black bottle with the metal applicator tube. I believe it's in their Model Master line.
Mainly use that just because it's readily available. I normally put a drop on a piece of plastic (not styrene) and then use a brush/toothpick/pin to apply it. I also have a supply of various super glues, accelerators, tube glues, white glue, etc. for use depending on the need. |
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Various CA glues ranging from really thin to really thick, for filling gaps. Also, the plastic welding fluids are pretty useful, too. I haven't used toobglue for yeeaars. It seems you used a bit too much in an enclosed space he's a boom operator... cut him some slack.
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I use ZAP CA glues on everything except clear plastic such as windshields and aircraft canopies. For those I use Testor's clear plastic cement or basic Elmer's glue depending on the application. I also use a variety of filler glues, putties, and resins to custom build and fasten parts.
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Quoted: I use A combination of glues Tenax for really small parts and Zap a Gap Thick and Thin with Zap Accelerator for major building. For Canopies I use Micro Clear and for white metal I use Zap 2 part Epoxy. I build stuff like this http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c255/pjg43/PICT0014.jpg http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c255/pjg43/DSCN2097.jpg http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c255/pjg43/PICT0009-1.jpg DAMN FINE WORK, SIR!!!! Those Liberators are dead sexy. |
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I use A combination of glues Tenax for really small parts and Zap a Gap Thick and Thin with Zap Accelerator for major building. For Canopies I use Micro Clear and for white metal I use Zap 2 part Epoxy. I build stuff like this http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c255/pjg43/PICT0014.jpg http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c255/pjg43/DSCN2097.jpg http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c255/pjg43/PICT0009-1.jpg DAMN FINE WORK, SIR!!!! Those Liberators are dead sexy. Thank You! I'm 43 been doing it since I was 6. I really hope I can turn my kids to this. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Various CA glues ranging from really thin to really thick, for filling gaps. Also, the plastic welding fluids are pretty useful, too. I haven't used toobglue for yeeaars. It seems you used a bit too much in an enclosed space he's a boom operator... cut him some slack. ![]() Where the hell is my manifest!? ![]() |
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Google up Track-Link and Missing-lynx.com; both very good Armor sites that will get the
creative juices flowing, if you are interested in Armor, that is. Finescale Modeler magazine is a good modeler mag, too. I use Testors liquid glue, very thin CA glue, two-part epoxy, and Elmers white glue, depends on the application. Working on one of Trumpeter's KV-1 series (painting stage) and Italeri's Leopard 1 (building stage) right now. Great hobby. |
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I believe TENEX = MEK. I bought some, said "hey that smells like MEK." I used MEK for a while, but I haven't built a model in years. Reloading is more gratifying for me and takes up less shelf space. I've been thinking of breaking out the airbrush and painting a rifle stock. |
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Testors glue with solvents that melt the plastic work fine. The "non toxic" stuff is crap. No solvents, and after a few weeks parts start falling off. You can thank many state legislators for that. Kids just went from sniffing glue to sniffing gasoline, spray paint, Scotchguard, and others things.
Besides, back whenever, the glue of choice for the sniffers was Ambroid. A wood glue for balsa models. |
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Google up Track-Link and Missing-lynx.com; both very good Armor sites that will get the creative juices flowing, if you are interested in Armor, that is. Good sites. I really like Armorama.com. It's part of a big network and they have sites for all types of interests. Quoted:
I like the 5 minute epoxy and the gel type crazy glue....the gel stuff is not as messy and gives you a few seconds to work. http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/sd0324/020.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/sd0324/LRRP1.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/sd0324/Massoud3.jpg Outstanding work! |
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FALLER SUPER EXPERT
It's made in germany, it has a needle applicator and comes in a bottle tha squeezes. I have built 1:87 scale Humvees, M1A2's and such for my Model railroad(Mine is a U.S Army layout, red engine, yellow cars with red lettering and all.) without extra fuss and mess because it can be accuratly applied exactly where you want it, dries in about half the time as Testors cheap Inhalant junkie glue. Sometimes i have even used super glue applied with toothpick for precision work. |
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FALLER SUPER EXPERT It's made in germany, it has a needle applicator and comes in a bottle tha squeezes. I have built 1:87 scale Humvees, M1A2's and such for my Model railroad(Mine is a U.S Army layout, red engine, yellow cars with red lettering and all.) without extra fuss and mess because it can be accuratly applied exactly where you want it, dries in about half the time as Testors cheap Inhalant junkie glue. Sometimes i have even used super glue applied with toothpick for precision work. I forgot about this stuff.....it does work really well. |
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I really don't have any input to proper adhesives for model building but I am impressed by the work shown here.
I can't imagine the patience it takes to do it. I just don't have the motor skills necessary. Hell, the last model I built was a SBD Dauntless filled with toilet paper, firecrackers and properly soaked with charcoal starting fluid. Spectacular, at least when your 8 years old. I often wonder if Dad ever noticed where all his starting fluid was going. I was hell on those little green army men too. I miss those days. |
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I finally managed to find a couple of IH scout models I was going to put together and paint to look like my Scout will when it is finished. After assembling one of the kits I realized I suck at models and have left it sitting un-painted and falling apart. One of these days I'll either get one of my kids to learn how to do models that look good, or farm it out to someone else to finish for me |
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What kind of glue/cement do you use? I've heard that professional model makers never use tube glue. Aside from the bottles of brush-on liquid cement, what other options are there that won't make a mess? I'd like to get back into model building someday, and this is something that's been rattling around in my head lately. Thanks. TENAX http://www.wholesaletrains.com/SMImages/LG200301657.jpg BEST plastic model glue ever. MEK has a cancer risk, as far as I know, none with this stuff. I buy it by the case. |
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I like the 5 minute epoxy and the gel type crazy glue....the gel stuff is not as messy and gives you a few seconds to work. http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/sd0324/020.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/sd0324/LRRP1.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/sd0324/Massoud3.jpg Verlinden figures? What scale? |
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I like the 5 minute epoxy and the gel type crazy glue....the gel stuff is not as messy and gives you a few seconds to work. http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/sd0324/020.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/sd0324/LRRP1.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/sd0324/Massoud3.jpg Verlinden figures? What scale? Nope...not Verlinden,I am not a big fan of his figures. First figure is 120mm scale,the second is 54mm,and the third bust is 1/10 th scale (about 2.5 " tall). |
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I have always preferred the testors liquid with the brush in the cap, as well as superglue, both regular and the gel.
Off topic (sorta) the local Hobby Lobby just opened, and I was STUNNED at how expensive models have gotten. The Monogram B29 was insanely priced (over $100). I found a nice selection of balsa WWII aircraft kits, picked up a nice P40 Warhawk for under $10. (1:30 scale). I am working on a Monogram 1:48 P61 Black Widow with my son. Hope to pick up the 1:48 B-25 soon. |












