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Posted: 8/20/2006 12:58:16 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/20/2006 8:49:01 AM EDT by johnnyrebel]
someone posted a formula that was supposed to work well with stainless 22lr cans..what was it vinegar and peroxide?..if so what were the measurements? 1/2 & 1/2?
i searched but with dialup and a crappy connection i have gotten nowhere

thanks
Link Posted: 8/20/2006 1:34:38 PM EDT
Gemtech recommends mineral spirits & ATF (e.g... Dexron II/III) mixed 3:1.
Also safe for aluminum baffles.
Link Posted: 8/20/2006 1:56:07 PM EDT
I think this is what your after. 50/50 Mix
Link Posted: 8/20/2006 2:48:15 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Junksamich:
I think this is what your after. 50/50 Mix


yup..thanks
Link Posted: 8/21/2006 4:47:11 AM EDT

Originally Posted By johnnyrebel:
someone posted a formula that was supposed to work well with stainless 22lr cans..what was it vinegar and peroxide?..if so what were the measurements? 1/2 & 1/2?
i searched but with dialup and a crappy connection i have gotten nowhere

thanks


DON'T use this in any can with any aluminum. This works fairly well for stainless steel, but it seriously attacks and weakens aluminum leading to an early failure.

At Gemtech, we actually do not believe in cleaning cans, and our demo cans (which see a lot of use) are never cleaned. The exception is the mounting system. Most gunsmiths will tell you that more wear is placed on firearms from compulsive cleaning than from shooting.

Reasonable neglect will often give longer service than compulsive cleaning, and most suppressors will outlast the rifling in the host weapon's barrel.
Link Posted: 8/21/2006 9:11:26 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/21/2006 9:15:35 AM EDT by johnnyrebel]

Originally Posted By PHD:

Originally Posted By johnnyrebel:
someone posted a formula that was supposed to work well with stainless 22lr cans..what was it vinegar and peroxide?..if so what were the measurements? 1/2 & 1/2?
i searched but with dialup and a crappy connection i have gotten nowhere

thanks


DON'T use this in any can with any aluminum. This works fairly well for stainless steel, but it seriously attacks and weakens aluminum leading to an early failure.

At Gemtech, we actually do not believe in cleaning cans, and our demo cans (which see a lot of use) are never cleaned. The exception is the mounting system. Most gunsmiths will tell you that more wear is placed on firearms from compulsive cleaning than from shooting.

Reasonable neglect will often give longer service than compulsive cleaning, and most suppressors will outlast the rifling in the host weapon's barrel.


i understand that mr dater and i really do respect your opinion, but as dirty as my 22 can gets it is quite in the needing of a cleaning this was the last time i cleaned it and i lost alot of the material when i pulled the baffles out so this is not all of it...oh and this is after 5k rounds which i have about 7k through it at the moment....
oh and thats 484.2 grains basically like emptying 9 308 cartridges of powder into it or having 2 45acp ball bulletts in your can

Link Posted: 8/21/2006 5:42:01 PM EDT

Originally Posted By johnnyrebel:
i understand that mr Dr. dater and i really do respect your opinion, but as dirty as my 22 can gets it is quite in the needing of a cleaning this was the last time i cleaned it and i lost alot of the material when i pulled the baffles out so this is not all of it...oh and this is after 5k rounds which i have about 7k through it at the moment....
oh and thats 484.2 grains basically like emptying 9 308 cartridges of powder into it or having 2 45acp ball bulletts in your can

img.photobucket.com/albums/v706/hemi1488/CIMG0096.jpg


I never clean my cans except for my .22. It is aluminum, so i soak it in ed's red. Doesn't get the lead out, but gets some of the other crud out. I have heard of folks bead blasting the baffles, but don't get carried away or you'll destroy them.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 12:59:23 AM EDT

Originally Posted By NAM:


I never clean my cans except for my .22. It is aluminum, so i soak it in ed's red. Doesn't get the lead out, but gets some of the other crud out. I have heard of folks bead blasting the baffles, but don't get carried away or you'll destroy them.


may try it next time ,oh mines stainless btw
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 4:40:43 AM EDT

Originally Posted By PHD:

Originally Posted By johnnyrebel:
someone posted a formula that was supposed to work well with stainless 22lr cans..what was it vinegar and peroxide?..if so what were the measurements? 1/2 & 1/2?
i searched but with dialup and a crappy connection i have gotten nowhere

thanks


DON'T use this in any can with any aluminum. This works fairly well for stainless steel, but it seriously attacks and weakens aluminum leading to an early failure.

At Gemtech, we actually do not believe in cleaning cans, and our demo cans (which see a lot of use) are never cleaned. The exception is the mounting system. Most gunsmiths will tell you that more wear is placed on firearms from compulsive cleaning than from shooting.

Reasonable neglect will often give longer service than compulsive cleaning, and most suppressors will outlast the rifling in the host weapon's barrel.



No doubt. Heard this posted countless time's. Do you have this on macro?


I've had my Vortex2 since 2002 ( maybe 2001 without looking at the form4 ) and It still works just as good as the first day I used it. The only thing I do is keep the threads clean and soak in mineral spirits. When it quits workin, It'll get sent back for repair.

The funny part is, the CAN works better than the Ruger mk2 it's been attached to for years. The gun jams, and needs a spring kit and probably a new extractor. However the can works just fine.
Link Posted: 8/24/2006 9:48:19 AM EDT
well i soaked it in 50/50 for 2 days with 3 cleanings...i didnot cap the ends as i didnt know if it would damage the rubber oring i use..


well it completeley got all the gunk out but took the gunkote finish with it so i need to breakout the bead blaster and airbrush now, which doesnot matter since if i pulled it apart to clean it it would have ruined the outside finish anyway. well i weighed it before and after also and i did remove all water inside by washing it out in MEK . there was a 417grain diffrence in weight so i guess it needed it
Link Posted: 8/25/2006 1:12:18 PM EDT

Originally Posted By johnnyrebel:
well i soaked it in 50/50 for 2 days with 3 cleanings...i didnot cap the ends as i didnt know if it would damage the rubber oring i use..


well it completeley got all the gunk out but took the gunkote finish with it so i need to breakout the bead blaster and airbrush now, which doesnot matter since if i pulled it apart to clean it it would have ruined the outside finish anyway. well i weighed it before and after also and i did remove all water inside by washing it out in MEK . there was a 417grain diffrence in weight so i guess it needed it


Just so that you know, the waste solution, lead acetate is very toxic as is anything with lead. As for the finish, I'd suggest Norrel Molycoat, nothing phases it.
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