Armory Sponsor
Posted: 6/30/2013 6:46:25 PM EDT
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Ok, I have been doing a LOT of reading here and was curious about something. If you build a full cinder block surround on the three sides and top and safe is mounted on concrete slab would it improve fire resistance much? I was thinking a full cinder block surround with rebar reinforcement and then adding 1" of drywall between sides and top of wall and safe. Would this drastically improve fire resistance? I know it will add theft protection but I was wondering about fire protection as well.
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I agree; and place multiple pieces of sheetrock on top of the safe.
I had thought of placing a water tank- like a car fuel tank, on top of the safe, with metal lines for the steam down to the safe... but apparently sheetrock is better pound for pound than water at protecting things from fire. |
| I actually planned on putting furring strips on the block and then drywall the whole unit so it looks like its part of the walls and garage to help hide it. I figured that along with 1" of drywall stuck on both sides and top on inside of block should shield fire protection a lot. |
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I actually planned on putting furring strips on the block and then drywall the whole unit so it looks like its part of the walls and garage to help hide it. I figured that along with 1" of drywall stuck on both sides and top on inside of block should shield fire protection a lot. I think the only negative I have heard is that the sheetrock will crumble as it changes its crystalline structure during a fire. You may want to put some additional amount at the top of the spaces between the safe and the walls, somehow... 
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I actually planned on putting furring strips on the block and then drywall the whole unit so it looks like its part of the walls and garage to help hide it. I figured that along with 1" of drywall stuck on both sides and top on inside of block should shield fire protection a lot. I think the only negative I have heard is that the sheetrock will crumble as it changes its crystalline structure during a fire. You may want to put some additional amount at the top of the spaces between the safe and the walls, somehow... I was thinking about making a complete 1" drywall shell around the safe inside the blocks. It would be a tight fit to try and cut back any air space for fire to breathe. Also, I have even considered pray in insulation between the drywall and block to seal any gaps that could possibly be left. My main fears are smash and grab thieves and fire. |
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If you want to really boost fire and burglary resistance, frame-up a wood form around the safe except the door opening. Make the inside provide a 3-4 inch shell around the safe. Leave the top open. Get a pallet of ready-mix concrete, and start mix'in. Pour it all around the perimeter, and top it off trowel flat. If you really want to add more, get some rebar, cut & place bars on 3-4 centers in the middle of the fill thickness. You probably need to use like 3/4" plywood to make the form liner. If you plan ahead, place a couple of steel plates in the face on one side so you can provide a hinge attachment point, then fabricate a fire-door from several layers of drywall and a light angle-iron steel frame. With a day's hard work you can make a mean-ass box that will survive Armageddon... |
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If you want to really boost fire and burglary resistance, frame-up a wood form around the safe except the door opening. Make the inside provide a 3-4 inch shell around the safe. Leave the top open. Get a pallet of ready-mix concrete, and start mix'in. Pour it all around the perimeter, and top it off trowel flat. If you really want to add more, get some rebar, cut & place bars on 3-4 centers in the middle of the fill thickness. You probably need to use like 3/4" plywood to make the form liner. If you plan ahead, place a couple of steel plates in the face on one side so you can provide a hinge attachment point, then fabricate a fire-door from several layers of drywall and a light angle-iron steel frame. With a day's hard work you can make a mean-ass box that will survive Armageddon... Well, this is how AMSEC can make some money. Reinforcement kits. Sheets of steel that lock together at the corners, inner sheet of stainless, outer of hardened. Both have rows of loops spot welded in. Rebar drops through the alternating loops on both inner and outer panels, locking them together. Mix concrete, add carborundum nuggets, and pour... 
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Well, this is how AMSEC can make some money. Reinforcement kits. Sheets of steel that lock together at the corners, inner sheet of stainless, outer of hardened. Both have rows of loops spot welded in. Rebar drops through the alternating loops on both inner and outer panels, locking them together. Mix concrete, add carborundum nuggets, and pour... This is not uncommon. Many buy ready-to-install Vault Doors like our VD8030, and build a vault with block or concrete walls. If you are handy, you can make a hell-of-a nice fire/burglary weapons locker that also acts as a safe room (hiding place) and a Tornado/Hurricane shelter. The Vault Door comes in a BF version with a 1/2" steel plate face and DryLite fill (better than drywall). There is an inside mechanism that allows you to lock yourself inside, and escape if you are accidentally locked in. Excuse my shilling here please, making a point about safe options... |
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If you want to really boost fire and burglary resistance, frame-up a wood form around the safe except the door opening. Make the inside provide a 3-4 inch shell around the safe. Leave the top open. Get a pallet of ready-mix concrete, and start mix'in. Pour it all around the perimeter, and top it off trowel flat. If you really want to add more, get some rebar, cut & place bars on 3-4 centers in the middle of the fill thickness. You probably need to use like 3/4" plywood to make the form liner. If you plan ahead, place a couple of steel plates in the face on one side so you can provide a hinge attachment point, then fabricate a fire-door from several layers of drywall and a light angle-iron steel frame. With a day's hard work you can make a mean-ass box that will survive Armageddon... So if I make a 4" thick rebar reinforced shell on three sides and top then that should really improve things I am guessing. Now, what if I then anchor bolt hinges in with angle iron framed door with 1" of drywall. I'm guessing that in a garage that is block anyway it would greatly increase fire protection and theft protection of even a cheaper made safe correct? I am not going real cheap on the safe but I figure the 4" concrete and extra door has to be a huge increase. |
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I know the sheetrock is noncombustible and acts as a fire barrier...But in its role to absorb energy, can it be surrounding the safe vs inside it? Yes. It will also function as a radiant energy shield. Depending on the fire scenario, radiation can oftentimes exceed convection as a heat transfer mechanism. |
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The concrete shell and drywall door described will convert any mediocre firesafe into a fireproof beast. It may not be pretty, but the concrete shell will be puffing steam like a locomotive in a fire. That safe would last over 2 hours in hell with that much extra protection, not to mention the extra burglary resistance added to the body walls.
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