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Posted: 1/5/2012 2:06:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/5/2012 2:06:33 PM EDT by Lancelot]
I have a SBR Colt M4 11.5" w/Aimpoint Comp M3 4MOA w/AAC M4-2000 for CQC & SBR Colt M4 14.5" w/Aimpoint Comp M3 2MOA (on the way in a few weeks) probably put a AAC M4-2000 in the near future . I'll be using M855 IMI mainly as that is what I have lots ad lots of. I was looking at zeroing the 11.5" at 50 meters and the 14.5" at 100 meters, does this distance look good or is something else needed?
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 5:52:51 AM EDT
I sight all of my iron and red-dots at 50.

Irons get this
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 5:54:46 AM EDT
I would zero at 25 yards, and move up to 50 yards.
I don't know why you would zero in at 100 yards on an unmagnified aim point.
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 6:04:32 AM EDT
Originally Posted By LeonC:
I would zero at 25 yards, and move up to 50 yards.
I don't know why you would zero in at 100 yards on an unmagnified aim point.


Your saying zero both at 25 and the final zero at 50?
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 6:10:02 AM EDT
25 to get on paper and close, then move back to 50
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 6:11:16 AM EDT
Roger That, will do when the rest of my stuff comes in. Thanks on clearing this up.
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 6:14:32 AM EDT
50/200 here on my 11.5"
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 6:21:57 AM EDT
I sight my M4s in at 25 m and 300m with mil spec M855s
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 6:23:35 AM EDT
carbine = 50Y for ME !!

from 10.5 to 14.5
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 6:29:07 AM EDT
For mythe Aimpoint l sight in at 50yds then move back to 200 to confirm. It typically requires a few adjustments. I do the same with my fold down BUIS except I use a 25/300.
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 6:31:33 AM EDT
Originally Posted By wahoo95:
For mythe Aimpoint l sight in at 50yds then move back to 200 to confirm. It typically requires a few adjustments. I do the same with my fold down BUIS except I use a 25/300.


I am curious why you decided to do the 25/300 instead of the 50/200 with your iron sights?
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 6:31:58 AM EDT
I use 50yd/200m zero for all BUIS and unmagnified optics
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 6:35:37 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/5/2012 6:38:05 AM EDT by projectruger]
Originally Posted By dcs12345:
Originally Posted By wahoo95:
For mythe Aimpoint l sight in at 50yds then move back to 200 to confirm. It typically requires a few adjustments. I do the same with my fold down BUIS except I use a 25/300.


I am curious why you decided to do the 25/300 instead of the 50/200 with your iron sights?



Curious about this also...
Any certain reason to have your irons and optic zeroed at different lengths? Wouldn't it make more sense to have the point of impact, the same with irons and optic on the same gun?
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 6:37:48 AM EDT
Rifle or carbine, gets a 200 yard zero, unless I know the rifle only be shoot a know fixed distance 100% of the time. Example would be a 300 yard paper puncher.
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 6:44:20 AM EDT
mine is zero'd at 100, and i aim an inch or so high for 25yards
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 6:50:53 AM EDT
Originally Posted By projectruger:
Originally Posted By dcs12345:
Originally Posted By wahoo95:
For mythe Aimpoint l sight in at 50yds then move back to 200 to confirm. It typically requires a few adjustments. I do the same with my fold down BUIS except I use a 25/300.


I am curious why you decided to do the 25/300 instead of the 50/200 with your iron sights?



Curious about this also...
Any certain reason to have your irons and optic zeroed at different lengths? Wouldn't it make more sense to have the point of impact, the same with irons and optic on the same gun?



on a OHMR Form 2444-B (M4 Carbine zero target) you zero the weapon at 25m and it will be zero'd for300m

so your point of impacts will be the SAME for both iron and optic

OHMR Form 2444-B
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 6:53:13 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/5/2012 6:54:58 AM EDT by foursixty]
Originally Posted By projectruger:
Originally Posted By dcs12345:
Originally Posted By wahoo95:
For mythe Aimpoint l sight in at 50yds then move back to 200 to confirm. It typically requires a few adjustments. I do the same with my fold down BUIS except I use a 25/300.


I am curious why you decided to do the 25/300 instead of the 50/200 with your iron sights?



Curious about this also...
Any certain reason to have your irons and optic zeroed at different lengths? Wouldn't it make more sense to have the point of impact, the same with irons and optic on the same gun?


I don't know if this poster has the same reasons as I do, but I will share mine. Me and a buddy zeroed his dot and irons separate. He doesn't have a ranging type sight such as a Matech.

By zeroing them separate he can be pretty close from point blank to a little over 300. I haven't personally done this to my gun but I see why some might. Irons for 100-300 and dot from 50-200 or vice-versa....

Kind of similar to having a reticle with a form of BDC. Kind of.....
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 7:04:09 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/5/2012 7:04:42 AM EDT by FMJ]
Originally Posted By wahoo95:
For mythe Aimpoint l sight in at 50yds then move back to 200 to confirm. It typically requires a few adjustments. I do the same with my fold down BUIS except I use a 25/300.


did the same

My Spare M4 has the older ARMS 40 with the 500M line notch
The BUIS was made to work with a 25M zero
And I also added a Iffytech 551F wich is zero at 50Y

If and when I have extra money to blow
I will buy a same plane BUIS
I do have a Ashley same plane apature in my tool box
I wonder if it would fit in the ARMS 40 ?
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 7:13:24 AM EDT
Originally Posted By dcs12345:
Originally Posted By wahoo95:
For mythe Aimpoint l sight in at 50yds then move back to 200 to confirm. It typically requires a few adjustments. I do the same with my fold down BUIS except I use a 25/300.


I am curious why you decided to do the 25/300 instead of the 50/200 with your iron sights?


It was taught to me in a class and has worked out well so far. We learned that most people tend to shoot high with irons and the 6 o'clock hold is most natural on longer distance shots. Since the 300yd zero has a wider ballistic arc you gain more hits using the 6 o'clock hold for center of mass. Not sure if I explained that well but it worked for me and all those in the class in terms of raising hit %. One of the instructors was a former Sniper so he was really big on increasing effectiveness in the 100-300yd range. Now with a red dot you only have one sight picture so its easy to hold center of mass and send the shot. With irons you have to factor in sight alignment and the 6 o'clock hold tends to be easier for longer distance shots. This works well with fold down sights but can be done with fixed sights as well however the red dot will fall just below the tip of the front sight post which some folks don't like.
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 7:51:03 AM EDT
I zero at 50 and verify at 200 on steel.
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 7:55:55 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/5/2012 8:03:13 AM EDT by RC51_Texas]
This chart "shows" the 50/200 battlefield zero concept and helps those who need to "visualize" it to better understand what we're talking about:



Although this chart doesn't show it exactly as a 50/200, you can see that if "zero'd" at 50 yards, the trajectory will be the same at roughly 200 yards or so. Example shows M855 (62gr) at 50/220 and M193 (55gr) at 50/225. Hope this helps.


A buddy of mine who's new to AR's emailed me this link and asked me to explain it. Not saying anyone on here doesn't understand, but as new users read these posts, a bit more clarity will help them understand. That's why I posted the chart above - even though others had similar charts in hyperlinks to other threads. Thanks.
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 7:58:04 AM EDT
Originally Posted By LeonC:
I would zero at 25 yards, and move up to 50 yards.
I don't know why you would zero in at 100 yards on an unmagnified aim point.


Because the POI dosn't rise above the POA with a 100y zero like it does with a 200y zero.
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 8:16:15 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/5/2012 8:17:33 AM EDT by dcs12345]
Originally Posted By TexAg10:
Originally Posted By LeonC:
I would zero at 25 yards, and move up to 50 yards.
I don't know why you would zero in at 100 yards on an unmagnified aim point.


Because the POI dosn't rise above the POA with a 100y zero like it does with a 200y zero.


True. If I was just punching paper at 100, a 100y zero would make since. The reason I prefer the 50/200 is that it is great for taking quick shots at coyotes and hogs at any distance out to 250 since I know the bullet will be only +or- 2" of the point of aim.
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 8:45:24 AM EDT
Originally Posted By LeonC:
I would zero at 25 yards, and move up to 50 yards.
I don't know why you would zero in at 100 yards on an unmagnified aim point.


+1

I zero all of my carbines at 50yd, using 25yd just to get on paper. This has worked very well with them all including my 11.5", which had no problem hitting popups at 200m with crap ammo.
Link Posted: 1/5/2012 11:35:38 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/5/2012 11:35:49 AM EDT by dogbutter99]
i zero at 25meters with -1.2" point of POI from point of aim.. this should equal to 50/200 meter zero setup

Link Posted: 1/5/2012 12:03:27 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Jack_Bauer24:
I have a SBR Colt M4 11.5" w/Aimpoint Comp M3 4MOA w/AAC M4-2000 for CQC & SBR Colt M4 14.5" w/Aimpoint Comp M3 2MOA (on the way in a few weeks) probably put a AAC M4-2000 in the near future . I'll be using M855 IMI mainly as that is what I have lots ad lots of. I was looking at zeroing the 11.5" at 50 meters and the 14.5" at 100 meters, does this distance look good or is something else needed?


i would do both at 50 i never had a issue using a 50 yard zero. It is very easy to remember and use.
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