Hello all, I finally got my RDIAS, but its still at my dealers.

I noticed the spring is a little large and hits the wall of the dias.

What springs are you guys useing and where can I get one?

I have heard of people use a spring from a BIC pen is that a good idea?

Here are pics of the RDIAS but I have no pics of the spring yet until I see my dealer again Sunday.





Also noticed when looking at other RDIASs the maker and SN# are on the bottom of the base. On this model its on the both sides of the base. Anyone else seen this before?

A little over a year ago I would have not even known what a RDIAS was.
Thanks to everone here for answering all my questions in the past and helping me find info.

I dont think you will have any problems with the spring. Remember its STEEL. As for the SN. Mine is ALOT HARDER to see since it was done with a pen gun...  SWD RDIAS
Man!!!! that trip looks like its had alot of run time on it. Have you tried it yet???

Slug-O

Not yet it arrived at my dealers last week and only got to play with it for a couple of minutes. I also ordered a MGI lower and it should have arrived at my dealers allready.
All my rilfes are high shelf except for my Colt M16 so I had no lower to use.

The sear trip looks to be modified I think. Hope it runs well guess Ill find out sunday.

Dont be let down if it doesnt work. I have had 3 trips for my RDIAS for it to work 100%.
the one that came with it never worked.......... The secone one worked 100% but broke  I now have a 3rd trip and it works like a champ. Hope it works the first time for you



Slug-O

Don't worry about the trip too much.  I've had mine replaced twice already.  I've fired at least 30K rounds with it.

The first replacement was early on.  When I bought it, one upper corner of the trip was already beginning to crack, and after a few thousand rounds I had it replaced.  At another 20K plus rounds, the pivot pin was getting loose.  I had it oversized and the trip replaced locally at the same time.

These things should go on practically forever.

BTW, the spring doesn't have to be very strong, and one that is too strong will effect the function if you use it for low power rounds in .22 conversions.  I have two Ciener kits and just got an LM-7 beltfed .22 upper.  My DIAS works great in both.

I use AK disconnector springs. Just cut off a few coils and you're good to go.

If your sear fits loose, you may want to consider shiming it. I super glued a piece of plastic onto the lug and it works great.

The further forward (towards the hammer) and lower you can mount the sear, the better. The goal is to avoid excessive impact force (from the carrier to the sear trip) to avoid damage.

Quoted: The sear trip looks to be modified I think.

Maybe, maybe not.  

Trip configurations vary with mfgr.  I see six (6) different shapes in this pic.

OK guys finally got to the range today and tried the sear in a new MGI lower with a new Bushmaster FA parts kit.  

Useing a 7.5 Viltor upper with piggy break, Mapul collapsable stock, and H buffer.

Here is what I was getting.

First mag ever shot was light strike after the first round went off in semi. I would cock the chargeing handel and it would fire but follow by another light strike. This was in semi.

In full auto I was getting bursts followed by a light stike. And on the last mag it dumped about 15 rounds and the bolt got locked back and stuck. I had no other option but to take off the stock so the bolt would move forward so I could take the upper off. Half way unscrewing the buffer tube the bolt slammed shut.

The bolt seems to be getting stuck on the sear trip. There is a lot of extra metal in the trip that could be shaved off and I dont think it would affect the function at all. I did not want to start shaveing off metal untill I asked you guys.  

As for timeing I didnt really do any type of check. The upper locks the sear in place pretty tight when closed. It moves very little back and forth but not much.

Is my timeing off??

Or should I ramp the bolt carrier a little more where it looks like the sear trip is getting stuck on??

I also have to push the sear trip with a little wire to be able to close my upper.

I have used this same upper/stock with my RR M16 and works 100%

Its a new FCG so the hammer spring should be strong.

Thanks for any help!

That is weird you are getting light strikes after firing a round in semi. I would check the lower trigger group because it should shoot in semi like a normal AR-15. Also sounds like the timing is off. Sounds like the sear isn't catching the hammer and the hammer is just following the carrier giving you the bursts and light strikes. I used this website to check the timing of my RDIAS - DIAS Also the way i put my RDIAS in is i put in on the upper first and then you don't have to worry about using a wire like you do if you put the RDIAS in the lower and try to put the upper on last.

Start with an 16" not a 7.5". work with that first to work out the kinks...

Slug-O

Quoted: Start with an 16" not a 7.5". work with that first to work out the kinks... Slug-O

+1

Or a 20" .....

Also an A1/A2 stock or equivanent and rifle-buffer/tube and recoil-spring (don't use a carbine recoil-spring in a rifle-buffer tube) .....

Start with a tried-and-true set-up and move to the carbine/commando stuff later ....

Quoted: Start with an 16" not a 7.5". work with that first to work out the kinks... Slug-O

+1

Is the DIAS loose on the lug or are you shimming it?

I concur with the poster who thought the trip not catching the hammer and the poster who said put the DIAS on the upper's lug before closing the receivers.

If you have play, even a little. Use a shim on the front of the lug to tighten and get the trip closer to the hammer.

Like others have mentioned, it could be one or more factors causing this failure.

I'd try and determine if the problem lies with the upper or lower. First, if you don't have an upper with a longer gas tube system, borrow one from someone and take it for a spin. If the problem disappears, then you know it's most likely a gas issue. Could be a problem with the gas tube (just too short), gas key or gas rings.

If the problem persists with the longer gas tube system, then the problem probably lies in the lower. Make sure the sear it tight on the lug and is not causing the hammer to slip off the sear trip (by wobbling around). Make sure the hammer is in good condition as well (a worn out hammer will slip off the sear trip). It could be bolt bounce but, that is an unlikely scenario since you're running an H buffer. May also consider a change in ammo. Winchester Q3131 seems to be popular.

I'd also check the timing with a 3/32" (between .08 & .10) drill bit shank. If the carrier makes contact with the trip too soon, it very well may manifest itself with light primer strikes. You may end up having to remove material from the sear trip or bolt carier to retard the timing.

Good Luck

 After   reading  this  I'm  curious ,  what  does a  RDIAS  go  for ?    $$$$  ?



   Can  it  be  installed  in  a  post  '86  rifle  ??

Quoted:  After   reading  this  I'm  curious ,  what  does a  RDIAS  go  for ?    $$$$  ?    Can  it  be  installed  in  a  post  '86  rifle  ??

I just bought a really nice one paid 13.8k for it.

Thanks guys.

I am still waiting for approval for my form 4 so I can not really mess around with the sear until I can take it home.

I tried closeing the upper with the dias on the takedown lug but the dias would hit the threading in the lower so it wouldnt close. It was hitting very little so I dremeled out the lower enough so it should close with the dias attached to the lug now.

Also I was mistakenly was useing a rifle buffer spring and changed that also.

I have many uppers I will take to try out with me on my next visit to my dealer wich will be on Sunday. Along with a 9mm buffer and heavy Q buffer as well.

If I am getting light strikes will the sear have to be moved to the back or forward when I shim it?

I plan on useing a little piece of plastic and glue like others have done.

I am going to the auto store to buy some feeler gauges to check timing.

Thanks and I will keep you updated on any progress.

Quoted: Here is what I was getting. First mag ever shot was light strike after the first round went off in semi. I would cock the chargeing handel and it would fire but follow by another light strike. This was in semi.

When you get a fail to fire on the second round, is the hammer in the forward (released) position ? Do you hear the hammer fall ?  

This sounds more like a gas or hammer/disconnector problem. Either the bolt carrier is not pushing the hammer down enough (to hook onto the disconnector) or, the disconnector and hammer are having a problem hooking onto each other. Could be a bad hammer/disconnector or disconnector spring.  

Did you try firing it in semi with the sear removed ?

height=8

Quoted: Also I was mistakenly was useing a rifle buffer spring and changed that also.

Sounds like a problem.  Carrier can't come back all the way with a larger spring in the tube.

Quoted: Quoted: Also I was mistakenly was useing a rifle buffer spring and changed that also. Sounds like a problem.  Carrier can't come back all the way with a larger spring in the tube.

But why would the carrier get stuck almost all the way back to the rear after a mag dump?? The only thing I can think of it getting stuck on is the dias. I started to take of the stock and got it unscrewed half way when the bolt slamed forward.

I changed the buffer spring and cleaned everything up. I will find out on Sunday if that helps.

Thanks!

Yeah dunno for sure.  But it releasing when you pull the tube is interesting.  Were you using a carbine or rifle buffer out of curiosity?

I have an issued FA but no experience with the RDIAS and such but get the concept, just trying to think it out.

Sorry for the delay in updates. I'm not tinkering with it anymore untill my form 4 is approved and I can take it home. I don't like haveing my dealer take it back and forth out of the safe evertime I show up even though he dosent mind, but I do.

Will keep you updated. It should be approved any day now.

Thanks for help!

Ok figured out the problem. First I shimmed the sear back. When I fist shimmed it forward the sear trip was not releaseing and I could not push the sear to the rear because the lower was not milled out enough. I swithed lowers to POF and it had more room to push the sear back.

For shims I used AL duct tape. Four little pieces layered on top of each other is all it took to the rear of the lug.

Then I installed the sear in my shorty .223 upper and still getting the bolt carrier stuck almost all the way back in the reciever. Had to bang the rifle on a table and it released.

I then took off the .223 upper and installed a 9mm upper with a ramped carrier. Ran good but the carrier was getting stuck all the way back like the .223 carrier but not as bad. A slight tap to the reciever and it released.

So it turns out my sear trip is too fat! It was pushing the whole body of the rdias down when the BCG was going to the rear and causing the jam. The 9mm bolt was ramped more than the standered .223 carrier so the it was not getting caught up as bad.

I then put the .223 upper back on and installed my Ceiner 22lr kit and it ran 100%

When I got home I got out the dremel and had a spare .223 carrier and started to ramp it even more. I did not want to modify the sear trip unless I had too. When I took it the range the next week it was still getting jammed to the rear but not as bad. A tap to the reciever and it released.

I then took had no choice but to grind the sear trip a little from the top and side that hit the top side of the carrier. I then placed the rdias on the lug and with no lower  reciver and moved the bolt back while holding the rdias in place and it did not push the rdias down anymore. So I think the problem is fixed. After all I did not take much off the trip. It is still very thick at the top where the trip hits the carrier and should be still be very strong.

Gonna try it out again next Sunday and hope it runs good not.

I understand why the RDIAS was like new when I bought it now. Don't think the previous owner could get it to work. It looked like the sear trip was shaved a little from the top but it had no scratchs on the bottom of the sear trip where the hammer hits it. Must of gave up and sold it to me.

Hope this work. If not think Im gonna give M60 Joe a call.


Will post before and after pics of the sear trip if works.

Hey sig, good luck with getting it running.  I'd be going nuts knowing i just spent 14k and need to tinker with it to get it to run.  I still have trouble with 14k for that little hunk of metal.

I had to mill out the back of my MGI lower just a little to get my DIAS to fit well too; now it is snug as a bug in a rug and runs perfect.

Quoted: Dont be let down if it doesnt work. I have had 3 trips for my RDIAS for it to work 100%. the one that came with it never worked.......... The secone one worked 100% but broke  I now have a 3rd trip and it works like a champ. Hope it works the first time for you i17.photobucket.com/albums/b96/leondana/000_0156.jpg i17.photobucket.com/albums/b96/leondana/sear.jpg Slug-O

I was right next to you on the line when it broke. When I saw you holding it up saying "I broke it," I thought "that guy just lost 10-15 k." Glad it was only the trip

Your trip looks pretty thick, I measured my JCB and it is 0.126-0.127 (likely .125 before the finish?) and not rounded over as you can see from the pic.  When it is installed and the BCG is forward, the face of the trip looks to be pretty near vertical.  While I would never hack on the body of a RDIAS, I wonder if your trip could use a little adjustment (by a skilled 'smith).
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y245/GPSIG/DSC01271.jpg

Shaving the sear trip was a complete success!  Work perfect will all 4 uppers I shot including my shorty 7.5'' upper. Fired over a 1k rounds of .223, 9mm, and 22lr with out any failures!

Will post pics later of what I shaved off the sear trip to make it run correctly.



Also I would like a longer pin for my rdais. It seems to walk out a little and is a little short.

Will a cut down drill shank be ok to use??

Thanks!

Im Sent.
I also have a Billistics RDIAS. I believe that I needed the trip to be built up a bit. to get the timing correct. I took the trip off & welded the face up a bit & recountored it. It runs 100% in all my hosts now.
Drop me a pm & I can give you a call. We can compare notes on them.

Paul

It's just sad that something that small can sell for $10k+