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Posted: 4/24/2007 10:17:12 AM EDT
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I have been IM'd about the use of K-phose a couple times now, so I figure that others may be interested in what I said about it as well. I do use the K-phos stuff. I got it as I have to order in bulk to make shipping worth while, and it was just another item to get to fill out my order. I actually don't see any difference in the end if I use it or not. It looks and sprays on like water and smells like a mild mix of isoproriol alcohol and sulferic acid. Since I have it, I use it. A little goes a long long way so only get one pint of the stuff. But what is great about it is that I can degrease all my parts at one time, then spend about 20 minutes koting (misting) everything with K-phose. Then KG color over the next few nights with out concern that the parts I just degreased will rust over. This enables me to spread my koting time over several nights. It's the cleaning and degreasing that takes up the most time, and the fact that I can clean all at once and then go slow and carefully spray later with color saves me a ton of time. As an experiment, I applied the K-phose product to all my bench tools and screw driver bits. In my house stuff will rust out within hours of not being protected. The resuilt is that all the stuff that was k-phosed is still rust free while all the other stuff is corroded. So it works... If I'm going to degrease and kote all in one marathon session, then k-phose is not really that necessary fo rme. As anyone can figure out, I use KG a lot. In fact that is all I use. But I do not claim to be an expert or product representative. I just use it and make it work with what I got. I like it and have gotten great results. I have to admit that I never tried anything else. With premium shipping charges to Hawaii, I just can't afford to purchase a variety. But after reading about all the different types, I know that the bake on stuff is for me. I can't imagine trying to spray an epoxy based product as it's cooking off. That would be too stressful for me to handle. Also, if I screw up and dothe wrong color on a part, I can just wipe it all off (before baking of course) with some MEK and do it again. I can do an entire project and be completely safisfied with what I did before curing it in the oven and setting it permanently. It is very forgiving in that sence. I can also handle the parts after they are dry, so handeling the parts before baking is not a problem. This makes handling the parts to get at every nook and crany a snap. The stuff also keeps very well too. I have used KG that is over 2 years old and it still works great. |
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I totally agree with everything you said. When I first used the K-phos I was a little worried because it looked kind of patchy, but once the KG was on top and it went in the oven it looked great. The bare stainless barrel that I K-phosed before coating is holding up much better than the anodized aluminum parts that I coated. I probably should have grit blasted the aluminum parts a little bit first but dont know where to find one (grit blaster). |
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