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Posted: 6/4/2006 5:04:06 AM EDT
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I was sighting in my EOTech yesterday at 100 yards, a process I do regularly with more traditional hunting rifles, and became well aware of the gun’s tight trigger pull. I'm guessing it's somewhere around 6-7 pounds; most of my hunting rifles are at around 2.5-3 pounds. When shooting my MG in a simple fashion of plunking and blasting I’ve never thought about the trigger being a bit tight and it works great, but when it comes to trying to gain precision off of a bench rest, it's very noticeable. Is there any reason, particularly from a safety standpoint, to keep the trigger on my M-16 (which is essentially now an M4) tighter than on most guns from the perspective of it simply being a full-auto gun? If not, how easy is the trigger to adjust? Would it be more difficult to control the number of shots fired with a trigger in the 3 pound area? |
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Here are my opinions. A trigger job on an AR15 style rifle can be as easy as dropping in lighter springs and a light polish of the trigger surface with great results. Now on an transferable M16 id say leave it be. The extra force of the hammer helps tame the bolt volocity and in full auto a lighter hammer spring could advance receiver wear or just beat the crap out of your fire controls.You may even get trigger slap. Also in my opinion there is a safety issue because you are modifying the timing of the sear and hammer slightly. You may also get light primer strikes in auto, I have seen this happen. Again these are just my opinions in owning a transferable M16. If you want to take out the grittyness and smooth out the trigger then go ahead and lightly polish the trigger. Knights Armarment has a match style M16 fire control group but its spendy. If you have a duty m16 that belongs to a department then there are liability issues. |
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IMHO, there is not a lot you can do with a milspec M16 trigger to lighten it without risking safety issues. And as noted, I would strongly recommend you not use a lighter hammer spring, since it also functions to slow carrier movement and keep the hammer from impacting the dicsonnector, particularly with pistol-caliber uppers. I have found two aftermarket systems I like and trust: --The Knight M16, which is state-of-the-art for two-stage full-auto trigger systems. The biggest drawback to me are that it is two-stage, has a longer than neccessary trigger pull, and retails at $400 (though you can sometimes find 'em online for as little as $250). --The JP Match trigger, which is single-stage. I have one in my Colt factory M16A1 and love it. There are several different weight springs you can mix-and-match -- I use a five-pound hammer spring and a three-pound trigger spring, and it gauges out to a 3.5-pound trigger pull. More important to me is that from at rest to fully depressed, total trigger movement is 3/32nds of an inch, and you can get on and off the trigger very fast for short bursts. It has zero creep, breaks like the proverbial glass rod ... can you see I love it? Retail is $140, extra spring kits are $10 per weight set. As always, YMMV. 
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