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Posted: 4/28/2011 11:23:25 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/28/2011 12:39:37 PM EDT by Slayfan21]
So should i get a hogue stock in od or just keep my modded factory stock?

Link Posted: 4/28/2011 12:48:07 PM EDT
I'm getting Hogue for mine, love the rubber overmold.
Link Posted: 4/28/2011 1:23:56 PM EDT
Looks good, keep it!

Link Posted: 4/28/2011 7:36:01 PM EDT
i found a take off factory stock from one of the target models, tan laminate wood with a flat buttplate and screwed on buttpad and a barrel channel for a .920 barrel for less than i usually see the Hogue stocks selling for.

i'm not a huge fan of the overmolded stocks and don't want a flexy stock.

your modified stock looks nice. would be really nice if it didn't have the typical carbine butt.
Link Posted: 4/28/2011 7:46:26 PM EDT
well what could i do there add a rubber pad or what, please expand on that thought.
Link Posted: 4/28/2011 8:58:25 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Slayfan21:
well what could i do there add a rubber pad or what, please expand on that thought.

there's no simple/easy solution, especially on a natural wood or laminate stock.

however, yours is painted... that changes things.

to mount a standard thin buttpad, something like you see on the factory stocks on the "Compact" and "Target"  rifles with laminate stocks, or the "Deluxe" rifles with the walnut or birch stocks have (none of those have barrel bands either) and you'd have to cut the back of the stock square, make a filler to take up the part you're removing (altho a shorter LOP isn't always bad) glue it to the stock with epoxy, Gorilla Glue or whatever method you like. fill in the notch on the top of the stock... epoxy would work well for that. sand everything to shape and then mount the new buttpad.

you'd also have to find a thin pad that was close to the shape you wanted. i'm guessing that Brownell's probably has them, but i've never looked. you'd probably want one about 1/4" thick.

you don't need a thick centerfire buttpad.

on a .22 you don't even NEED a pad, you could use non skid/skateboard/stairtread tape, or find a hard plastic buttpad or make a metal one.

but it's a lot of work just to eliminate the factory plate... and  there's not really anything wrong with the factory plate, it's just that the plastic one looks kinda cheezy and makes it instantly obvious that it's a modified factory stock.

don't take this as a harsh critique of your work... your work is fine, it's just the part of the stock you didn't modify yet that needs some attention!
Link Posted: 4/29/2011 4:18:46 AM EDT
Okay, I'll throw in my 2 cents.

I like what you did, the texturing on it is a nice touch and overall, I like how it came out. The green is a little bringhter then I would have done (i like darker colors), but if thats what you like, all the power to you, its your rifle.

I had a Hogue on my rifle at one time. It was nice because it was super light and very "grippy", however it did flex quite a bit. I wanted a target gun, so I swapped it out for a wood stock, bedded the last 1" of the stock and all that.

I think if you want something light and portable, go for it. The barrel will still be heavy, so it may make the gun front heavy. If you are going for "target" performance, leave it.

Just out of curiosity, what is the brass colored screw for that is right above the trigger?
Link Posted: 4/29/2011 9:30:43 AM EDT

Originally Posted By BlindFaith429:

Just out of curiosity, what is the brass colored screw for that is right above the trigger?

Pin that goes all the way thru the receiver (rear take down pin spot) to help secure the action.

Just my guess.
Link Posted: 4/29/2011 10:51:20 AM EDT
Yep receiver crosspin, it helps to lock the rear of the receiver tight into the stock. saw this on rimfirecentral gave it a try, really helped with receiver wingle up and down. I also tryed the pillar bedding from there, bedded the first 1 1/2 of the barrel and floated the rest about a 3/32th off the channel, shoots okay but still not happy, seems to string them it will group 2-4 rounds then fly and change POI, had that crappy plastic scope mount from christies, now i have a crappy aluminum one from UTG, but it is waaayyyy more solid than the plastic on, hope that eliminates the POI shifts the action is really solid in the stock, The barrel is very solid in the receiver, locktight around the extention.

Btw, the piant I used looked darker on the can lid, i wasnt super thrilled with the color either, i just didnt want a camo flat look, wanted some fine satin Lol
Link Posted: 4/29/2011 2:40:01 PM EDT
just to add food for thought:

here is the choate stock, also uses a receiver crosspin to lock the acion.   Fits standard size barrels.
Link Posted: 4/30/2011 12:48:07 PM EDT
Not many choices for a stock here in NJ.  I went with the same Choate.
Link Posted: 4/30/2011 10:16:37 PM EDT
ok, i don't know what i was thinking earlier!

i just finished some work on my 10/22 that's in the target stock. installed the new barrel with attached cantilever scope mount that i got on thrusday, tore the trigger group apart and cleaned everything, taking inventory of what aftermarket parts are in it, and got it all back together.

then i compared the factory target side by side with a factory carbine stock, and there'd be  no need to add any filler material to mount a .25" or so rubber buttpad, just cut the butt square and flat, and at a right angle to the bore.

getting rid of the factory carbine buttplate would let you round the top of the butt out a bit, because the only reason for it to be as square as it is, is because of the shape of the top of the plate.

you'd still need to do some filling on the top, but that should be simple.
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