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Posted: 11/27/2013 4:22:39 AM EDT
[#1]
What lube are you using? Get some Flitz, a section of cleaning rod, a gun cleaning swap that's just snug and a drill. Polish away.
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Posted: 11/27/2013 4:33:43 AM EDT
[#2]
Hornady One Shot... I've heard hit and miss reviews about it but it was the only thing available locally at the time. I'll try the drill thing tomorrow for sure, thanks.
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Posted: 11/27/2013 6:53:02 AM EDT
[#3]
I had the same issue a couple weeks back. Could not find Flitz, but normal rubbing compound will work too.
Mine was also up in the neck sizing area too, so this process will clean that up too. Apparently too much lube or a lot of use will get grit up in the die and cause scratches. I am going to start cleaning them more often myself. |
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Posted: 11/27/2013 7:02:56 AM EDT
[#4]
Brass should be cleaned prior to resizing.
One Shot works great for straight walled handgun brass, not so great with rifle brass. Once a case is forced through a die without enough lube it can leave brass galling inside the die. Copper solvet, metal polish, jewler's rouge or rubbing coumpound and elbo grease will remove it as already suggested. I use Imperial Sizing Die Wax exclusively for rifle brass. Very little is needed and I have never had any issues. |
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Posted: 11/27/2013 7:20:46 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What lube are you using? Get some Flitz, a section of cleaning rod, a gun cleaning swap that's just snug and a drill. Polish away. Good luck.
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Posted: 11/27/2013 7:30:41 AM EDT
[#6]
Scotch Brite the die every now and then, it helps to hold scratching to a minimum.
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Posted: 11/27/2013 7:51:22 AM EDT
[#7]
Make sure brass is clean before sizing. It's normal that your brass shows sizing stopping in that area. The brass doesn't expand, at least not much, in the thick head area and starts expanding where the thick taper of the base meets the sidewalls of the case.
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Posted: 11/27/2013 10:34:55 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Brass should be cleaned prior to resizing. One Shot works great for straight walled handgun brass, not so great with rifle brass. Once a case is forced through a die without enough lube it can leave brass galling inside the die. Copper solvet, metal polish, jewler's rouge or rubbing coumpound and elbo grease will remove it as already suggested. I use Imperial Sizing Die Wax exclusively for rifle brass. Very little is needed and I have never had any issues. See part in blue, that's your problem. Get some better lube. |
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Posted: 11/27/2013 3:12:36 PM EDT
[#9]
Yes. Brass galled to inside of die. Another polishing agent you can use is right in your bathroom. Tooth paste. I have used it many times.
Anybody familiar with Mosin Nagants knows what "sticky bolt syndrome" is. I have polished at least a few Mosin Nagant chambers with a tight fitting patch and tooth paste. It's actually a cleaning process more than a polishing process. This is also the case with most dies. Clean out the gulled brass and you should be good to go. |
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Posted: 11/27/2013 5:11:09 PM EDT
[#10]
one shot is garbage. for rifle cases you want imperial sizing wax or homemade lanolin+alcohol.
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Posted: 11/27/2013 7:33:04 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: one shot is garbage. for rifle cases you want imperial sizing wax or homemade lanolin+alcohol. Link to the home made lube. It's what I use also.
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Posted: 11/27/2013 8:22:07 PM EDT
[#12]
Thanks for all the helpful info guys! Bad news is one of my cases got stuck in the sizing die earlier and it's in there real good haha.
I'll report back with the results when I get it out and polish out the inside of the die along with making some of that homemade case lube. |
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Posted: 11/27/2013 8:26:07 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: one shot is garbage. for rifle cases you want imperial sizing wax or homemade lanolin+alcohol. Imperial sizing wax is great... for a single stage press. Not so hot for a progressive. The lanolin & isopropyl is good, it's cheap, and it works with single stage and progressive press'. |
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Posted: 11/27/2013 8:30:12 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks for all the helpful info guys! Bad news is one of my cases got stuck in the sizing die earlier and it's in there real good haha. I'll report back with the results when I get it out and polish out the inside of the die along with making some of that homemade case lube. How to remove a stuck case.
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Posted: 11/28/2013 2:35:55 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Only to people who can't (or won't?) follow simple directions. Imperial sizing wax is great... for a single stage press. Not so hot for a progressive. The lanolin & isopropyl is good, it's cheap, and it works with single stage and progressive press'. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
one shot is garbage. for rifle cases you want imperial sizing wax or homemade lanolin+alcohol. Imperial sizing wax is great... for a single stage press. Not so hot for a progressive. The lanolin & isopropyl is good, it's cheap, and it works with single stage and progressive press'. +1 to One Shot being Ok when directions followed. I've been reloading just over a year and used One Shot exclusively with no issues. My problem was over-lubing which made a mess of die. Switched to RCBS spray lube, followed directions to use cookie sheet instead of loading block for applying, and results are great and I'm using a lot less lube. Like everything, following directions is critical to success. |
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Posted: 11/28/2013 3:03:48 AM EDT
[#16]
+2 on the One Shot. It works great if you use it correctly.
I don't understand how so many people(not just the new guys who are figuring things out) can read a book and start making their own ammunition, but they can't read the directions on the side of a can. |
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Posted: 11/28/2013 3:41:43 AM EDT
[#17]
I must be the only antique out there who still uses the RCBS lube pad!
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Posted: 11/28/2013 4:16:15 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I must be the only antique out there who still uses the RCBS lube pad! Anyone who uses spray lube (lyman, oneshot etc) has never resized machine gun fired 308. It will absolutely require heavier lube. I prefer the RCBS pad. That said, i use spray lube on AR fired 556 ammo due to its ease of application. Heavier (read thicker) lube will minimize the scratches. |
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Posted: 11/28/2013 7:30:46 AM EDT
[#19]
i have always used a lube pad.
imperial sizing wax rules. that stuff works great. i use it all the time. just dont over do it and clean you dies now and again in very hot water and a old toothbrush |
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Posted: 11/30/2013 10:15:03 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I must be the only antique out there who still uses the RCBS lube pad! I still use the RCBS pad and RCBS Lube, can be a little messy/heavy for the first couple rounds but works great. |
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Posted: 11/30/2013 12:53:17 PM EDT
[#21]
One Shot and .308 .mil brass is asking for trouble. I use the RCBS lube on a pad for this, but to reduce case neck tension/stretching when sizing, I spray One Shot on a Q-Tip and swab the inside of the case neck. A quick twist of a .30 cal. brush to clean up and done.
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Posted: 11/30/2013 6:00:41 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I must be the only antique out there who still uses the RCBS lube pad! It looks like there are at least 4 of us. |
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Posted: 11/30/2013 6:25:07 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It looks like there are at least 4 of us. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I must be the only antique out there who still uses the RCBS lube pad! It looks like there are at least 4 of us. Nope, there are five of us! 
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Posted: 11/30/2013 7:28:42 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I must be the only antique out there who still uses the RCBS lube pad! Make it 6 LOL. Up until a few years ago I would lube the inside of the neck with the nylon neck brush. You roll the brush on the pad to pick up lube. I would do 1 in 3 or what ever kept things smooth. I now use the Imperial dry lube for the necks which I like better because it lubes both the inside and outside of the neck. Yes it gets on the pad but that don't bother me. I use spent primer trays to work new lube into the pad. The hard plastic edge is also great for scraping off the excess and the dirt that comes with it. Yes I'm a single stage user. |
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Posted: 11/30/2013 7:36:24 PM EDT
[#25]
Now 7 of us oldies.
I use the wet tumbler method of brass cleaning, then the lube pad and resize on a Rock Chucker. After resizing, I throw the cases into the vibratory tumbler with pet litter media, to clean off the lube. I have tried the Imperial, but for me, it just seems easier to use the pad and neck brush. Been loading since 1972 and never stuck a case, using the RCBS pad and lube. ETA: Finally! A use for the empty primer trays. Got a bunch I'll have to try that with. Always something new to learn, no matter how long you have been at it. |
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Posted: 11/30/2013 8:40:47 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
ETA: Finally! A use for the empty primer trays. Got a bunch I'll have to try that with. Always something new to learn, no matter how long you have been at it. My thoughts exactly. Never thought of using a discarded primer tray for anything, this is an outstanding idea. I've been loading on my Rockchucker since '78 or '79, only graduated to a Dillon 650 about two years ago. Build my pistol competition ammo on the Dillon while all rifle loads and any handgun test loads are built on the single stage. |
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Posted: 12/1/2013 9:50:36 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I use spent primer trays to work new lube into the pad. The hard plastic edge is also great for scraping off the excess and the dirt that comes with it. . nice. |
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Posted: 12/1/2013 3:50:39 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
+2 on the One Shot. It works great if you use it correctly. I don't understand how so many people(not just the new guys who are figuring things out) can read a book and start making their own ammunition, but they can't read the directions on the side of a can. i always followed the instructions to a T. degreased & lubed my die with it, and used a loading block. got all the sides covered and inside the case necks. one shot lubricity simply sucks compared to imperial sizing wax or lanolin+alcohol. the difference is huge. one shot is also really expensive. why bother with inferior, more expensive product? unless you like to piss away money. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 3:06:43 AM EDT
[#29]
Alright so it took a while to get the items I needed but I got the case removed and polished it out with my dremel and some polishing agent. I also ended up making the homemade lubricant (lanolin/99% rubbing alcohol) and it works amazingly! I have sized hundreds of brass now and I haven't had any hung up/stuck cases.
As far as the scratches, the brass came out perfect after polishing, but after a couple hundred sizings the brass started to get slight scratches again. Guess I'll polish it out once more and make sure the brass is extra clean. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 6:11:59 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
i always followed the instructions to a T. degreased & lubed my die with it, and used a loading block. got all the sides covered and inside the case necks. one shot lubricity simply sucks compared to imperial sizing wax or lanolin+alcohol. the difference is huge. one shot is also really expensive. why bother with inferior, more expensive product? unless you like to piss away money. I don't, and I didn't mean for my post to read that way. Before I started using the good stuff (Frankeford then bootleg) I used One Shot. I never had a case get stuck. I too prefer the bootleg stuff, but because it's so easy to use. No loading blocks to clean lube off of, no spray angle to worry about, and a little bit goes a long way in a zip-lock bag. |
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