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Posted: 9/6/2016 9:09:30 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/24/2016 12:55:40 PM EDT by ReefRaider]
So as to not take another thread here off topic. Thought I'd start a new one.

Looking at maybe doing some up grades to my S1050s. Was wanting some input as to what some of you might have tried and liked . Also what didn't work out for you.

About 3 years ago some one gave me a bearing for the shell plate . I never put it on though. Now I'm reading that the bearings can make the shell plate retainer hit the tool head when it's all the way at the bottom of the down stroke.

Even if you haven't done any up grades to your 1050. I also would like to know how you have your tool head set up to process 5.56 brass. I've always use all Dillon dies with the exception of the last station. Which has a redding neck sizing die with expander. It helps to roll any burr left by the trimmer and gives very consistent neck tension.

ETA  Keep in mind I run my 1050s on a PW auto drive.
The up date's done as of now.
Level 10 delrin guide rods and also their delrin primer slide sleeve cover.
Fast and Friendly Brass ,  super duty small swager rod. If you do a lot of large swaging they have a large rod too.
Home made case feeder plunger , to slow the .223 case feeding in to the shell plate.
NOTEif your doing a caliber conversation to .233 on the 1050. Fast and Friendly Brass sells a up graded #3 shell that from what I'm told is well worth the money over the Dillon one. They also sell other shell plates for other caliber conversation s.
Check their web site.  They are also a sponsor of ARFCOM !
Link Posted: 9/6/2016 10:09:04 PM EDT
I took the ratchet off of my 1050. It now runs smooth as silk. Installed the hose device that captures primers and puts them all into a liter coke bottle under the bench. Use a redding competition seater.

In the near future I am installing the the inline fabrication 4" smart mount.
Link Posted: 9/6/2016 10:39:03 PM EDT
Autodrive?

I like the Level 10 guide Rod Kit - allows you to get rid of that dang spring. Easier to swap out heads. If you don't have autodrive, then not really helpful.

https://lvl10i.com/collections/dillon-upgrades/products/specialty-guide-rod-for-dillon-1050

Link Posted: 9/7/2016 5:04:39 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/7/2016 5:23:48 AM EDT by blake-b]
I've got two S1050s. I'm lazy and don't want to move things around too much. One is dedicated to 223/556 and the other 308. Both of them are set up the same way. I have a total of 4 tool heads. One for each caliber to process brass and one for each caliber to load. It doesn't take too long to switch out a toolhead. I don't have to mess with the different systems that rely on primer size, caliber specific feeding parts, etc.

They are set up the same way. I use a mix of Dillon, Lee, and Lyman dies.

Processing head:
Station 1 is a Lee universal decapper.
Station 2 swages
Station 3: Empty (no primers loaded)
Station 4: Empty (where powder measure would be)
Station 5 is where an electric trimmer is (RT1200 for 223; Bosch 1617EVS router with an adapter kit for 308. I went with the router just to try it. Both the router setup and a Dillon trimmer came out similar price wise so I thought I'd try it)
Station 6 empty
Station 7 is a Lyman M die to open the necks up just a little

Loading head:
Station 1 is a Lee universal decapper to catch any media stuck in the flash hole or in case a primer snuck through during the processing phase.
Station 2 swages (I don't back it out when loading, I just leave it as it was in case one gets through that didn't get swaged enough).
Station 3: Primes
Station 4: Powder measure
Station 5 Empty
Station 6 Dillon Bullet seater
Station 7 is a Lee FCD if I choose to crimp

Ratchet mechanism is removed.

I installed the bearing and just ground down the bolt heads because they did contact tool head when it was all the way down.

Installed a couple of things I bought on ebay like the case feed fix plate and a spent primer chute thing you attach a hose to so the primers will go down into a bucket or two liter bottle.

I don't sort cases by headstamp/year and just average out the swaging. I have loaded 10s of thousands of 223 this way with zero issues. I just started 308 and plan to do the same unless it because necessary to sort by headstamp/year.

I also did some of these tips/tricks from site sponsor Fast and Friendly Brass' site.

Link Posted: 9/7/2016 7:59:24 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/7/2016 8:03:03 AM EDT by SubQ]
Right now I'm only doing .223 on the 1050.
Using the 550 for pistol and .243, and just starting .300blk and .338LM

Setup is similar to blake-b
Processing
1 - Dillon resizing
2 - swage
3 - empty
4 - empty
5 - RT1200
6&7 - empty

Loading
1 - universal decapper (make sure no media is in flash hole)
2 - swage
3 - prime
4 - powder drop
5 - Mr. Bulletfeeder
6 - Dillon seater
7 - Dillon crimp

Going to change the seating die to Forster Ultra Micrometer to reduce runout and crimp die to Lee FCD.

Only real change I've made is removing the ratchet.

eta - I never worried about the bur left by trimming because wet tumbling w/ss media mostly took care of it. But I like the idea of the neck sizer in station 7 on the processing head.
Link Posted: 9/7/2016 8:23:50 AM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By nigla:
I took the ratchet off of my 1050. It now runs smooth as silk. Installed the hose device that captures primers and puts them all into a liter coke bottle under the bench. Use a redding competition seater.

In the near future I am installing the the inline fabrication 4" smart mount.
View Quote

Have given the hose some thought.  Since the spent primer catcher had to be modified anyway for the auto drive. Which on occasions gets bumped out of place causing it to dump it self on the floor.
Link Posted: 9/7/2016 8:25:06 AM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By djryan13:
Autodrive?

I like the Level 10 guide Rod Kit - allows you to get rid of that dang spring. Easier to swap out heads. If you don't have autodrive, then not really helpful.

https://lvl10i.com/collections/dillon-upgrades/products/specialty-guide-rod-for-dillon-1050

View Quote

This item will probably be a must have for both units.
Link Posted: 9/7/2016 8:28:11 AM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By blake-b:
I've got two S1050s. I'm lazy and don't want to move things around too much. One is dedicated to 223/556 and the other 308. Both of them are set up the same way. I have a total of 4 tool heads. One for each caliber to process brass and one for each caliber to load. It doesn't take too long to switch out a toolhead. I don't have to mess with the different systems that rely on primer size, caliber specific feeding parts, etc.

They are set up the same way. I use a mix of Dillon, Lee, and Lyman dies.

Processing head:
Station 1 is a Lee universal decapper.
Station 2 swages
Station 3: Empty (no primers loaded)
Station 4: Empty (where powder measure would be)
Station 5 is where an electric trimmer is (RT1200 for 223; Bosch 1617EVS router with an adapter kit for 308. I went with the router just to try it. Both the router setup and a Dillon trimmer came out similar price wise so I thought I'd try it)
Station 6 empty
Station 7 is a Lyman M die to open the necks up just a little

Loading head:
Station 1 is a Lee universal decapper to catch any media stuck in the flash hole or in case a primer snuck through during the processing phase.
Station 2 swages (I don't back it out when loading, I just leave it as it was in case one gets through that didn't get swaged enough).
Station 3: Primes
Station 4: Powder measure
Station 5 Empty
Station 6 Dillon Bullet seater
Station 7 is a Lee FCD if I choose to crimp

Ratchet mechanism is removed.

I installed the bearing and just ground down the bolt heads because they did contact tool head when it was all the way down.

Installed a couple of things I bought on ebay like the case feed fix plate and a spent primer chute thing you attach a hose to so the primers will go down into a bucket or two liter bottle.

I don't sort cases by headstamp/year and just average out the swaging. I have loaded 10s of thousands of 223 this way with zero issues. I just started 308 and plan to do the same unless it because necessary to sort by headstamp/year.

I also did some of these tips/tricks from site sponsor Fast and Friendly Brass' site.

View Quote


All good info thanks for taking the time to post that. Would like to know more about this " case feed fix plate" .
Link Posted: 9/7/2016 1:48:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/7/2016 1:49:35 PM EDT by blake-b]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
All good info thanks for taking the time to post that. Would like to know more about this " case feed fix plate" .
View Quote


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dillon-Super-1050-case-feed-fix-plate-/201636435095?hash=item2ef277d497:m:mFYNYabKQ7ffvBwLBYsdZ3w

I feel it made a difference in the way the cases enter the shellplate. Even if it is all in my mind, it was cheap.
Link Posted: 9/7/2016 2:47:50 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By blake-b:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dillon-Super-1050-case-feed-fix-plate-/201636435095?hash=item2ef277d497:m:mFYNYabKQ7ffvBwLBYsdZ3w

I feel it made a difference in the way the cases enter the shellplate. Even if it is all in my mind, it was cheap.
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Originally Posted By blake-b:
All good info thanks for taking the time to post that. Would like to know more about this " case feed fix plate" .


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dillon-Super-1050-case-feed-fix-plate-/201636435095?hash=item2ef277d497:m:mFYNYabKQ7ffvBwLBYsdZ3w

I feel it made a difference in the way the cases enter the shellplate. Even if it is all in my mind, it was cheap.



 I've seen different versions of this. I don't think it's in your mind. Have had problems in the past with 5.56 brass . Loading into the shell plate right. Most of the ones that seem to help are profiled like that one. FF&B shell plate might have helped too. It seems 5.56 cases feed into his plates even at a speed that's faster then the case feeder. Those shell plates are not cheap. But I do want to try one.
Link Posted: 9/7/2016 3:48:46 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By blake-b:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dillon-Super-1050-case-feed-fix-plate-/201636435095?hash=item2ef277d497:m:mFYNYabKQ7ffvBwLBYsdZ3w

I feel it made a difference in the way the cases enter the shellplate. Even if it is all in my mind, it was cheap.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By blake-b:
All good info thanks for taking the time to post that. Would like to know more about this " case feed fix plate" .


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dillon-Super-1050-case-feed-fix-plate-/201636435095?hash=item2ef277d497:m:mFYNYabKQ7ffvBwLBYsdZ3w

I feel it made a difference in the way the cases enter the shellplate. Even if it is all in my mind, it was cheap.


I think it made a difference also , you can save you a little $ and the seller ebay fees if you catch him on Eno's forum
Link Posted: 9/7/2016 4:12:49 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/7/2016 4:13:12 PM EDT by FastAndFriendlyBrass]
Link Posted: 9/7/2016 5:41:50 PM EDT
I didn't mean to make it sound that way. What I was trying to convey is that with your shell plate there was no need to change the profile of the plunger plate.

I also like the way you process your brass in two passes. If I do another large run I'll use both 1050s and give it a try.

Really do want to try one of your shell plates.
Link Posted: 9/7/2016 5:48:10 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/7/2016 6:42:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/7/2016 6:59:09 PM EDT by ReefRaider]
What are you guys using for trimmer motors ? I have 3 RT 1200 now . But two of them have been rebuilt twice now and I'm all out of brushes. So when there gone I'll be needing to make a change there two.
Link Posted: 9/7/2016 9:48:11 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ReefRaider:
What are you guys using for trimmer motors ? I have 3 RT 1200 now . But two of them have been rebuilt twice now and I'm all out of brushes. So when there gone I'll be needing to make a change there two.
View Quote


1500... happy so far.
Link Posted: 9/7/2016 10:03:38 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/7/2016 10:05:57 PM EDT by Ronnie_B]
Funny I see mention of problems prepping brass on 1050's. I was getting several thousandths variation in the trim length and headspace, and noticed that the toolhead tilted slightly and in different directions depending on where brass was located. All 3 of my 1050's have a little bit of ram/frame clearance even when new.

223 case prep adventure-

Station 2- Full length sizing/decap die with no expander. The die body adjusted for slightly long headspace. Final headspace established at the trim die.

Station 3- Swager die body adjusted for slight preload against the shellplate

Station 5- soon to be done-  I may cut down a Dillon Powder die or Lee Universal decap die. This will then support both sides of the trim die- this modified die will have to be cut down to fit under the Vacuum manifold/adapter.

Station 6- I cut down some Hornaday Lock n' Load die adapter bushings and screwed one onto the bottom of the trim die (under the toolhead) and did some final trimming so that the bushing preloads slightly against the shellplate. This allows me to set headspace without affecting preload at that point.

Also cut the Vacuum manifold/adapter back side off, opposite of the hose connector, so I can have a die in station 7. Temporarily using duct tape to cover the hole, and will work on this some more. I may modify another one manifoldby heating it and pressing a recess into it.

Station 7- Lee 45 ACP die body with a 223 expander, also adjusted for a slight preload. This gradually expands the case neck and shears any burr off the inside of the mouth. I also noted no apprecuiable change in runout- much better that the conventional method.

Station 8- Dillon swage die, modified by cutting the support rod back it is used to put a slight flare on the case mouth.

All of this eliminates the variability in the toolhead/shellplate spacing. I am getting very consistent results, independent of brass arrangement.  Runout is excellent as well- I usually see about .001-.002 at the neck on LC brass

In another post I will explain the swager arrangement I use which gives me consistent results independent of brass type and case head thickness. I also use the smae general concept on my loading toolhead and the results are great!
Link Posted: 9/8/2016 9:14:18 AM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Ronnie_B:
Funny I see mention of problems prepping brass on 1050's. I was getting several thousandths variation in the trim length and headspace, and noticed that the toolhead tilted slightly and in different directions depending on where brass was located. All 3 of my 1050's have a little bit of ram/frame clearance even when new.

223 case prep adventure-

Station 2- Full length sizing/decap die with no expander. The die body adjusted for slightly long headspace. Final headspace established at the trim die.

Station 3- Swager die body adjusted for slight preload against the shellplate

Station 5- soon to be done-  I may cut down a Dillon Powder die or Lee Universal decap die. This will then support both sides of the trim die- this modified die will have to be cut down to fit under the Vacuum manifold/adapter.

Station 6- I cut down some Hornaday Lock n' Load die adapter bushings and screwed one onto the bottom of the trim die (under the toolhead) and did some final trimming so that the bushing preloads slightly against the shellplate. This allows me to set headspace without affecting preload at that point.

Also cut the Vacuum manifold/adapter back side off, opposite of the hose connector, so I can have a die in station 7. Temporarily using duct tape to cover the hole, and will work on this some more. I may modify another one manifoldby heating it and pressing a recess into it.

Station 7- Lee 45 ACP die body with a 223 expander, also adjusted for a slight preload. This gradually expands the case neck and shears any burr off the inside of the mouth. I also noted no apprecuiable change in runout- much better that the conventional method.

Station 8- Dillon swage die, modified by cutting the support rod back it is used to put a slight flare on the case mouth.

All of this eliminates the variability in the toolhead/shellplate spacing. I am getting very consistent results, independent of brass arrangement.  Runout is excellent as well- I usually see about .001-.002 at the neck on LC brass

In another post I will explain the swager arrangement I use which gives me consistent results independent of brass type and case head thickness. I also use the smae general concept on my loading toolhead and the results are great!
View Quote


Like you I have loaded my tool head to even it out. It helped ,but the shell plate has to be full for me to get down to + - .02. Do you use any auto drives ? What trimmer motor do you have ?
Link Posted: 9/8/2016 9:17:49 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By djryan13:


1500... happy so far.
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Originally Posted By djryan13:
Originally Posted By ReefRaider:
What are you guys using for trimmer motors ? I have 3 RT 1200 now . But two of them have been rebuilt twice now and I'm all out of brushes. So when there gone I'll be needing to make a change there two.


1500... happy so far.


Do they get hot like the rt1200 ? I've always felt that was one of the reasons the bearings would fail in the 1200 .
Link Posted: 9/8/2016 10:49:34 AM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ReefRaider:


Do they get hot like the rt1200 ? I've always felt that was one of the reasons the bearings would fail in the 1200 .
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Originally Posted By ReefRaider:
Originally Posted By djryan13:
Originally Posted By ReefRaider:
What are you guys using for trimmer motors ? I have 3 RT 1200 now . But two of them have been rebuilt twice now and I'm all out of brushes. So when there gone I'll be needing to make a change there two.


1500... happy so far.


Do they get hot like the rt1200 ? I've always felt that was one of the reasons the bearings would fail in the 1200 .


Not seeing the heat like in the 1200 but hardest I've run it is 1K of 223 made to 300blk
Link Posted: 9/8/2016 11:28:13 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By angus6:


Not seeing the heat like in the 1200 but hardest I've run it is 1K of 223 made to 300blk
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Originally Posted By angus6:
Originally Posted By ReefRaider:
Originally Posted By djryan13:
Originally Posted By ReefRaider:
What are you guys using for trimmer motors ? I have 3 RT 1200 now . But two of them have been rebuilt twice now and I'm all out of brushes. So when there gone I'll be needing to make a change there two.


1500... happy so far.


Do they get hot like the rt1200 ? I've always felt that was one of the reasons the bearings would fail in the 1200 .


Not seeing the heat like in the 1200 but hardest I've run it is 1K of 223 made to 300blk


Not enough to fry egg (like 1200) but pretty hot. I have run 3k of the 300bo conversion on a beautiful Sat afternoon without issue.

I really need to shoot them more..
Link Posted: 9/8/2016 11:33:54 AM EDT
That's working it hard for sure. I usually only run the 1200 for about 45 mins at a time and that's with a fan blowing on it. Then let it cool down and start again. It seemed to help them last a little longer. I did have one new 1200 that blew out a lower bearing at about 30K. The brushes were just about gone too. Dillon replaced that motor under warranty. In fact they ended up replacing two motors for me over all. It's was on the 2nd one that they sent me extra brushes. 5-6 sets if I recall correctly.
Link Posted: 9/8/2016 1:00:37 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/8/2016 4:03:53 PM EDT
I have actually been looking at that too. I was thinking I would just have my brother turn down a shaft from one of my old Dillon motors. If I can do that it would really help to lower the cost of changing over both presses.. I take it the collets on those routers is 3/8 ?
Link Posted: 9/8/2016 9:33:07 PM EDT
I am using an RT1500 and it stays a lot cooler than the 1200 did.

Reef Raider, I adjust the dies and have the preload bushing so that the toolhead stops the in the same position whether there is brass or not- kind of like the concept of adjusting a die in a single stage to cam-over slightly.

On my brass prep toolhead I installed the spacer bushing on the bottom of the trim die. I then adjust the other dies by running the toolhead down, turn the die until it seats against the shellplate, then add a little extra for the preload.

I first noticed the toolhead tilt problem about two years ago when my headspace and trim were inconsistent, and could see the trimmer tilt slightly as the toolhead bottomed out.

Dillon pretty much said if the brass headspaces within spec there is no problem. They checked one of my 1050s (New press) and said the frame/ram were within spec. When the ram is extended up, I can move the toolhead about .005 for/aft and side-side measured with a mag-base dial indicator which, to me, is not really a precise fit. Not even close. All three of my 1050's are about the same.

One rep suggested I send the ram out to be hard chromed- We used to do that on worn hydraulic valve actuators on large steam turbines, and it would probably work. These presses were new/almost new at that time.

With the changes I made, I don't see it happen now and all my brass pretty much gauges the same.
Link Posted: 9/8/2016 10:45:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/8/2016 10:47:06 PM EDT by ChevelleDave]
I never thought about that, equally loading the toolhead. I guess I kinda do that somewhat already with the swage die and trim die, being opposite each other and M die.

My brass gauges very consistently, and OAL is consistent, I guess it comes down to how precise of a load You're doing.

I only use the 1050 for de-capping and mass sizing/trimming and blaster loading. All my "precision" stuff is worked on the LEE Classic or Co-Ax, and trimmed on a Wilson.

I guess I could add a extra powder die to load alittle bit back there.

I'll have to check for play in My S1050 when I get back out to the garage. I notice twist in  the tool head, but not tilt. I've always meant to see if I could shim some of the twist out of it.

I guess it all comes down to what You're expecting from you're machine. I don't see how you could NOT get .005" of play with the design of the S1050.

Anyhow, I have the primer drop tube upgrade, FF&B .308 shellplate, Swage rod, and swage rod backer, I highly recommend those if you're processing brass. LUD with the FF&B pin is very nice upgrade. I had a P&W drive, but never really liked it, sold it for what I had into it. I don't do enough to warrant the expense of an Autodrive.

I do love my Mr. Bulletfeeder!
Link Posted: 9/9/2016 8:07:00 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/9/2016 9:59:28 AM EDT by ReefRaider]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Ronnie_B:
I am using an RT1500 and it stays a lot cooler than the 1200 did.

Reef Raider, I adjust the dies and have the preload bushing so that the toolhead stops the in the same position whether there is brass or not- kind of like the concept of adjusting a die in a single stage to cam-over slightly.

On my brass prep toolhead I installed the spacer bushing on the bottom of the trim die. I then adjust the other dies by running the toolhead down, turn the die until it seats against the shellplate, then add a little extra for the preload.

I first noticed the toolhead tilt problem about two years ago when my headspace and trim were inconsistent, and could see the trimmer tilt slightly as the toolhead bottomed out.

Dillon pretty much said if the brass headspaces within spec there is no problem. They checked one of my 1050s (New press) and said the frame/ram were within spec. When the ram is extended up, I can move the toolhead about .005 for/aft and side-side measured with a mag-base dial indicator which, to me, is not really a precise fit. Not even close. All three of my 1050's are about the same.

One rep suggested I send the ram out to be hard chromed- We used to do that on worn hydraulic valve actuators on large steam turbines, and it would probably work. These presses were new/almost new at that time.

With the changes I made, I don't see it happen now and all my brass pretty much gauges the same.
View Quote



I know it's a lot to ask but I'm sure I'm not the only one here that would like to see some pics of your tool head. I would like to try doing some thing similar to what you have done. I would have my brother make me faults dies to put in the tool head for the people. Then put the nuts on the bottom of the tool head to secure them. That way nothing on top of the tool head would have to be modified.  Did you make something that will screw on to the bottoms of the dies to contact the shell plate ?

There is some tolerance stacking going on in the S1050s that's a given.  My PW auto drives also have some. Mostly in the bearings of the pivot arms. I've replace them in the past and keep spares.
Link Posted: 9/9/2016 8:13:32 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/9/2016 8:38:31 AM EDT by ReefRaider]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ChevelleDave:
I never thought about that, equally loading the toolhead. I guess I kinda do that somewhat already with the swage die and trim die, being opposite each other and M die.

My brass gauges very consistently, and OAL is consistent, I guess it comes down to how precise of a load You're doing.

I only use the 1050 for de-capping and mass sizing/trimming and blaster loading. All my "precision" stuff is worked on the LEE Classic or Co-Ax, and trimmed on a Wilson.

I guess I could add a extra powder die to load alittle bit back there.

I'll have to check for play in My S1050 when I get back out to the garage. I notice twist in  the tool head, but not tilt. I've always meant to see if I could shim some of the twist out of it.

I guess it all comes down to what You're expecting from you're machine. I don't see how you could NOT get .005" of play with the design of the S1050.

Anyhow, I have the primer drop tube upgrade, FF&B .308 shellplate, Swage rod, and swage rod backer, I highly recommend those if you're processing brass. LUD with the FF&B pin is very nice upgrade. I had a P&W drive, but never really liked it, sold it for what I had into it. I don't do enough to warrant the expense of an Autodrive.

I do love my Mr. Bulletfeeder!
View Quote


I only use the Mr. Bullet feeder for .45.  I would like to get the extended large primer tube for running .45 also. Then I'll need a bigger ammo tray too.


 Another thing on my list is the extended powder hopper for running .223. not having to fill the hopper with powder every stack of primers would be nice too. With that I might be able to have added the extended small primer tube also. As long as it will run out of primers before powder. Which I think it will.
Link Posted: 9/9/2016 8:49:01 AM EDT
Balancing a progressive press toolhead is nothing new or special to the 1050. And certainly not only a concern for trimming. When loading, you can see variation in COAL. I applaud those of you who spend the time working on tricks to improve it. Personally, I dont think much about it for my bulk ammo reloading. I do balance the head just due to necessity. My results are good.
Link Posted: 9/9/2016 10:13:56 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/9/2016 10:14:49 AM EDT by ReefRaider]
The bushings to get a preload that removes the tolerance stacking of the 1050 , is a new idea to me. As has been said I'm sure it would in fact tighten the press and make it able to achieve a + - .01.  regardless of die configuration and or location of cases in the shell plate. Running an auto drive sure helps , but this would put it over the top.
Link Posted: 9/11/2016 7:19:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/11/2016 7:20:06 PM EDT by ReefRaider]
Just a bump to get back on page 1 . To see if maybe we can get pics from Ronnie.
Link Posted: 9/11/2016 7:29:37 PM EDT
One thing I thought of, does the extended hopper fit on the 1050? I thought I remember reading that the case feeder gets in the way.
Link Posted: 9/12/2016 7:50:23 AM EDT
Unique tec makes a model that's 11" instead of 14". The 11" unit fits the 1050 and raise's the capacity by 57%.
Link Posted: 9/12/2016 8:03:22 PM EDT
I'll have to check that out.

I don't remember if I posted it, but the Level 10 spring and bushing are nice.
Link Posted: 9/12/2016 10:50:24 PM EDT
Checking in- I will try to get pics later tonight and post them or email tomorrow night.

I did not modify a toolhead. I adjust all die bodies to touch the shellplate wherever possible, and install the bushings on others. I have not settled on a final configuration until I run a few batches of brass, but so far so good.

I made the bushings by cutting down some Hornaday LocknLoad die adapters and hand lapped them for final thickness- they screw onto the bottom of the die, with the shoulder seating against the bottom of the toolhead. They could be made a little undersized then shimmed.

My goal is to support the toolhead at as many points as possible. At this time I have contact with the shellplate at 5 points. I may make a dummy die by cutting a junk die down to install in station 5 which will have to clear the vacuum manifold on the trim die.

I also use the bushings on my loading toolhead- same problem with the same solution.
Link Posted: 9/12/2016 11:32:38 PM EDT
I just reset My 1050 back to process a bunch of 5.56.

I was going to set all the die body's just till they touch the shell plate, then adjust the sizing die until it is correct. Then turn the de-capping die, swage, and M die bodies down the same amount. Also was going to try cutting down a extra powder die to go under the vacuum hood.

That sound about right? I'm thinking that is what you mean.
Link Posted: 9/12/2016 11:34:09 PM EDT
That's it!
Link Posted: 9/12/2016 11:58:19 PM EDT
Cool, I'll try to get it done tomorrow. I'll post up when I get it.
Link Posted: 9/13/2016 9:16:42 AM EDT
For some reason I envision something like the Hornady die bushings on the bottom of the dies with a nut to lock them in place. This way there's nothing above  the top of the tool head and they can be adjusted very easily. I would think 4 of them spread out would be enough.  I suppose if you really wanted to a rod could be made  and threaded on one end. It would then go though the tool head in the 4 the station ( primer ) with a nut on both top and bottom of the tool head for adjustments.  Wonder if there is a size of black pipe that could be tapped out on the ID to make these bushings out of ?
Link Posted: 9/13/2016 10:14:35 PM EDT
Well, this is what I came up with. Chopped off and extra powder die.



It will work for my purposes, it is kind of a bitch to tighten.

I got to looking, and with a little bit of work, I think I could find the right size threaded hex socket cap and thread it, or just tack weld it in the hole and clean it up.

Something to look into this winter.
Link Posted: 9/13/2016 10:36:42 PM EDT
I also ordered a couple extra trimmer adjustment nuts, and drilled and tapped them with a 8-32th nylon tipped set screw.



Hopefully I can somewhat keep the ballpark adjustments of the trimmer when I switch between calibers.
Link Posted: 9/14/2016 9:16:49 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/14/2016 9:18:51 AM EDT by ReefRaider]
Great thanks for posting those pic.  I take it thats your 300 BO tool head.
Link Posted: 9/14/2016 11:03:35 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/14/2016 11:07:49 AM EDT by ChevelleDave]
You're welcome.


.308 die on the left, 300 BO  die on the right.

That is My Dillon "notched toolhead" for 300 BO. I forget the real name. It is My dedicated trim/de-capping toolhead, do all my processing on it.
Link Posted: 9/14/2016 11:11:52 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/14/2016 11:13:02 AM EDT by djryan13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ChevelleDave:
You're welcome/


.308 die on the left, 300 BO  die on the right.

That is My Dillon "notched toolhead". I forget the real name. It is My dedicated trim/de-capping toolhead, do all my processing on it.
View Quote


"Trim Toolhead" or something like that.

There is a company who makes 550 and 650 heads with a vacuum attachment. Basically a hole drilled in with tube for hose. Not sure if they have em for 1050.

I really hated using the Dillon 550 trim head with certain calibers so I may try the modified head.

Took dillon way too long to come out with the 1050 trim head..


Nice post, Dave!
Link Posted: 9/14/2016 11:13:45 AM EDT
Link Posted: 9/14/2016 11:36:11 AM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Going to set the archive toggle to keep this thread out of the archives.


1050 guys, save a link to this thread for future reference.


View Quote

I see your still on top of things here.
Link Posted: 9/14/2016 2:17:35 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/14/2016 8:24:12 PM EDT
I sent Chevelle Dave a picture of my bushings- maybe he can post them.
Link Posted: 9/14/2016 8:56:22 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Ronnie_B:
I sent Chevelle Dave a picture of my bushings- maybe he can post them.
View Quote

Thank you Sir !
Link Posted: 9/14/2016 9:55:09 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Ronnie_B:
I sent Chevelle Dave a picture of my bushings- maybe he can post them.
View Quote


I either didn't get it, or I didn't recognize it and it got dumped. I'm one of those clean email box freaks.

But PM it, or remail it, and I will post it.


Was it to the wavecable account from when we where doing the wiring schematic? I'll pm you a email address to make sure.
Link Posted: 9/15/2016 12:30:02 AM EDT
Here is Ronnie's modified LNL bushing.

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