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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 2/6/2002 6:20:55 PM EST
I have a winchester model 70 with a synthetic stock that shoots damn good but a buddy of mind suggested that I look into getting it bedded. I am new to this bedding concept and had a few questions:

1: Which style(s) of bedding would you recommend?

2: Which kits or materials will I need?

3: Are there any web pages that have step-by-step directions for bedding.

P.S. Having a gunsmith do it is out of the question. The only one around is at Gander Mountain and his lowest price was 180$

Link Posted: 2/7/2002 6:29:07 AM EST
I also am a professional gunsmith. With the action open take a $1.00 bill and try to slide it down from the muzzle to the breech of the barrel, between the barrel and stock. if the $1.00 goes all the way to the forward portion of the chamber area, or is close to the chamber, without interference you do not need to bed the action. If there are any areas that are tight or where the action is binding against the stock there is a contact that needs to be removed before bedding. Post your snail mail address and I will find something to xerox and send to you. JarheadGunner.
Link Posted: 2/7/2002 6:46:10 AM EST
Go to Brownells for bedding supplies...
Link Posted: 2/7/2002 7:15:30 AM EST

Originally Posted By Noname:
Go to Brownells for bedding supplies...

All you really need is Marine-tex, paste wax and Electrical tape.
Link Posted: 2/7/2002 7:51:40 AM EST
keving67, If your rifle shoots "damn good", I would be reluctant to mess with it. It is your rifle, and if you are happy with it, fine by me.

I have never seen a rifle that was made worse by bedding. Usually they shoot either smaller groups after bedding. Almost always, they have less shift in zero after bedding.

Bedding usually refers to applying a filled epoxy to the stock in a way that makes for "perfect" contact between stock and action. With a synthetic stock, you probably already have an aluminum bedding block, so "pillar bedding" would be redundent, but bedding the recoil lug and the area around it with any of Brownell's Acraglas products, Bisonite, or similar products could be an improvement.

There are directions in the Brownell's catalog and with the products. Go check out some books on gunsmithing for guidance - it is not hard, but it is a bit too involved for an internet note, but I will try.

Pull the stock from the action, and remove any interfereing parts, like the trigger assembly, bolt stop, etc;

Apply release compound everywhere epoxy might or will touch during the process (this might be car wax, poly vinyl alcohol, etc);

Fill any holes that you do not want epoxy in with modeling clay or wax;

Sand (40 grit) all places where you will want epoxy to stick in the stock (recoil lug recess, beddding surfaces on the bottom of the receiver, etc.);

Tape the bottom, sides and fron surface of the recoil lug, and any other areas that you want epoxy to touch. Most of us will tape the barrel from the front of the chamber forward;

Measure and mix epoxy, and butter both surfaces where you want bedding compound;

Assemble, clamp, and remove excess epoxy - Make sure that action screw holes are lined up or action dummy screws are used, otherwise, you may have a beautiful bedding job, but not be able to put it all together;

Let it cure;

Disassemble, clean off the wax, release compound, tape, etc;

Trim excess epoxy from unwanted areas;

Reassemble the rifle;

Check that the barrel is still free floated (jarheadshooter's post is a check that the barrel is floated, but not necessarily that it is properly bedded;

Go shoot it! It will probably have a change in zero, but with a good bedding job, that will be last time it will occur.

Oh, Gun-fan's post indicates use of Marine-tex. I am not sure, but I think that Marine-tex is polyester resin, not epoxy. Polyester resin will shrink during cure, and continue to shrink forever(most fiberglass boats are made with polyester resin, and the shrinkage shows up as the cloth printing through with time). It will shoot nicely, but the stock screws may loosen and it will keep changing zero. Avoid products with polyester resin in them for this reason.

Whther you change a gun that already shoots fine or not, have fun!
Link Posted: 2/7/2002 8:01:17 AM EST
Thanks for the help guys

jarheadgunner: keving67@yahoo.com

Link Posted: 2/7/2002 8:04:10 AM EST
Sorry jarheadgunner

Snail mail
Kevin Garner
21211 west 10 mile rd
APT 401
Southfield, MI 48075

Thank you
Link Posted: 2/7/2002 9:48:41 AM EST
[Last Edit: 2/7/2002 9:49:11 AM EST by Gun-fan]

It is an epoxy.
As it comes in black, it will match your tupperware Winchester stock well. I have used it on Remington tupperware stocks also. This stuff is so strong & you fill some of the "holes" in the stocks, it will give you the equivelent to "pillar" bedding.
Link Posted: 2/7/2002 10:29:31 AM EST
[Last Edit: 2/7/2002 10:31:13 AM EST by Hardwood]
Kevin: If you're referring to the factory synthetic stock on the M70 then you'll probably be better off in obtaining a quality after market and bedding that stock instead of trying to re-bed you factory stock. Winchester M70 synthetics ARE bedded - however something similar to hot-melt glue is used. Also most epoxies won't adhere well to the plastic of your factory synthetic anyway (unless you machine out an angled locking channel in the stock). If you're insistent on using a synthetic, I'd suggest a pillar-bedded after market like an HS precision. My personal preference is for laminated wood stocks, which allow for a greater degree of customization. However, you'll also have to finish the wood which is another topic in itself but in my opinion is the better choice for a true "personalized" look and feel.

Bedding a rifle action is easy, but it takes time and patience. I've done several A-bolts (both re-beds and new stocks) and ALL have showed significant improvements in accuracy, the best being my recent .300WSM which improved from 2"+ out of the box to .625" groups using aftermarket laminated stock from Elk Ridge, factory ammo and factory barrel.

Regarding materials: You'll need some sort of expoxy & a RELEASE AGENT (Marine-Tex, DevCon, or Acraglas, preferably the gel), sand-paper, masking or electrical tape, and modeling clay (uses explained in web link below)

Check out the link below for answers to all of your questions

Link Posted: 2/7/2002 10:42:56 AM EST
Well, I stand corrected. I shall put Marine-tex on my list of epoxies.

What is the Win M70 synthetic stock made of? Even Polypropylene will take epoxy, althought the H-S is a better choice...
Link Posted: 2/7/2002 1:17:29 PM EST
Hardwood, the elk ridge stocks are beautiful but are there any that are cheaper and quicker shipping?

Link Posted: 2/8/2002 4:26:16 AM EST
Check out:

Richard's Micro-fit Gunstocks

I've purchased a couple of stocks from his bargain list (Stocks on hand - COD returns and cancelled orders mostly) and was very satisfied. Total cost with pad installed was ~$90.00. Ship time on "bargain" stocks is about a week (at least that's how long both of mine took)

His published prices on made to order stocks are cheaper and he claims to ship his made to order stocks quicker than Elk Ridge (where you can expect at least 12 weeks delivery - I know from experience). I would chose Richard's over Elk Ridge due to price and delivery time - quality is the same.
Link Posted: 2/8/2002 5:54:50 AM EST
Listen to jarheadgunner.
I have always got better overall accuracy with a freefloating barrel. You may be able to get better accuracy with a bedded rifle but you will have to find the load it likes and that load may be different on a hot day than a cold day.
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