Quoted:
Quoted:
Alumahyde works well.
This. Prep with
bead blasting and heat metal and spray can w/ heat gun (or hair dryer).
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Do not bead blast before DuraCoat. Neither steel shot or glass bead will work, leaving too smooth a surface for a successful finish. Aluminum oxide, slag or even ScatBlast (recycled car windows) are a much better selection for blasting. Save the glass beads for parkerizing and steel beads for auto parts. If you're trying to clean up pits or rusted spots, shot blast to smooth out the surface, THEN abrasive blast to get a surface to stick to.
DuraCoat needs a good surface to bite into...only going to get that with abrasive blasting. Their suggestion of sanding or Scotchbrite only barely works and will not adhere like abrasive blasting will. But, it does enough to make it a good selling point.
As far as the coating not hardening, remember some aluminums (especially casts) are highly porous. Whatever you used to degrease may still be in the pores. I degrease with an approved stripper/degreaser, blast, blow off with air, bake, parkerize, wash, dry, then coat and into the oven for an hour @110. I even bake for 30min at 300F after blasting, re-degreasing and reblasting AGAIN if there is any hint of a residue that shouldn't be there. Since I'm doing it for money, I don't want to see the same item again with a problem I could have prevented the first time.
I'm available at millerized at millerized dot com (or through the website millerized dot com) if you have questions you need anwered. I'm by no means an expert, but I'm working hard to make sure that WV's only Certified DuraCoat Finisher doesn't end up a failure.