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Posted: 6/19/2010 11:35:04 AM EDT
| A few weeks ago, I picked up a new M1 from CMP. I also picked up a new stock to replace the old stock. Everything fits fine, the hand grips and everything. But when I put the stock on, it slides on just find and everything, but when I put the trigger group back in, in order to lock everything into place the trigger guard only moves about 1/4 to 1/2 way to the locked positon before it stocks and won't go any further. What do I need to do to fix this? I looked inside the stock and compared it to the old one and they look to be about the same, is there a part in the new stock that I may need to file down in order to get the trigger guard to lock with the trigger group? If so what part needs to be filed down? This is really irritating me.... |
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If the trigger guard is within 3/4 of a inch of closing this is what you do
You need to put a dab of grease of each of the lugs on the trigger guard. Turn the rifle over on a carpeted floor and "push hard" It will close, this is totally normal on new commercial stocks. You arent used to what a tight lock up feels like |
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Yes they can be very tight. When starting to close where does it stop, at the trigger?
If so that is fine , push it closed Do you do as I suggested and grease the lugs? If it stops before the trigger you may have to very slowly file off some wood where the trigger assembly sets. Be careful, take to much and you can ruin a perfectly good stock 
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Quoted: Yes they can be very tight. When starting to close where does it stop, at the trigger? If so that is fine , push it closed Do you do as I suggested and grease the lugs? If it stops before the trigger you may have to very slowly file off some wood where the trigger assembly sets. Be careful, take to much and you can ruin a perfectly good stock http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f197/Garandlover/misc/tightlockup.jpg no, I haven't tried the grease thing yet. I will probably goto my dad's tomorrow and see if he has grease and try that. man, i really wish I could find my camera cord to show a picture of it to you, yes the trigger guard closes far enough to where it moves down about 4-5 milimeters past the bottom tip of the trigger. ETA: I got it to fit. I just used a long thick screw driver to be able to apply more pressure and I got it to close. Thanks for the help guys. I was just worried I might break the trigger assembly if I applied too much pressure, but it works fine and everything. Thanks again. |
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Also..............
M1 Stock Fitting http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=6&t=268116 and M1 Stock Fitting
Here is a repost of a post I put toghter about stock fitting... Here is an overview of what I do when using a new stock on a Garand. It's been my experience that ALL stocks, USGI or aftermarket, need some tweaking to fit right. I believe this was the case too when a new USGI stock was installed also. First, with the barreled receiver stripped down, install the barreled receiver into the stock. Install and latch trigger assembly. You should not have any handguards on right now. There are two area's to check. First make sure the barrel has plenty of space in the barrel channel. Most of the new stocks I have used will have enough wood there to touch the barrel. Remove any excess wood, there is plenty in there, take just enough out to make sure the barrel isn't touching. Then check the clip latch and make sure that it is free and not being interfered with by the stock, relieve as necessary. Remove barreled receiver from stock. Second, look at your rear handguard. Strip the rifle down to just the receiver and barrel. Install the rear handguard then the lower band. using a piece of thin string (I use fishing line or dental floss) make sure that you have enough room between the receiver and back end of the handguard for the string to fit. Then, in the same motion, try to run the string forward, between the barrel and the wood up to the rear handguard clip. If the string makes it the entire way without getting caught up on something then do the same on the front side of the rear handguard. You do this by fishing the string between the barrel and the wood then moving it all the way front and all the way back to the clip. If the string get caught up on something you know to remove wood in the area the sting gets stuck. Note: On every new rear handguard I received there has been plenty of wood that needed removed. Third, with the front handguard fitted and the barrel band installed (with the roll pin). Assemble the front handguard metal and slide over the barrel and into the groove in the barrel band. Usually there is not a whole lot that needs to be done here. On one instance I had to remove a bit of wood on the underside of the front handguard so it would fit over the lip on the barrel. Install the gas cylinder. I run the gas cylinder down only until the port on the barrel is in the middle of the "window" of the gas cylinder. Note: This is one of those highly debated procedures, some say you should run the gas cylinder lock down until it bottoms out on the barrel shoulder. Use your own judgment. After installing the gas cylinder, lock and screw, make sure the front handguard has a little play in it (front and back then side to side). If not find where it is binding and remove the proper amount of wood. Now we do the infamous tilt test. Install the bolt, oprod and lower receiver parts. Tilt back and forth, end to end. The bolt and oprod and bolt should move freely. Note: I have seen on some rifles where the oprod touched the bottom of the barrel where the OD gets wider near the chamber. This is OK as long as you grease it up well and the oprod is not "hammering" the barrel. If you got everything right in the first couple steps this should pass no problem. Install the receiver group into the stock. Install trigger group then remove. This makes sure the receiver is seated in the stock. Do the tilt test again. If the bolt and oprod move freely, you are done. If not look for obvious signs of binding. I have found on 2 of the stock sets I have used that the op rod will rub on the inside of the stock near the drawing numbers on the oprod requiring a little bit of wood be removed from the inside of the stock near the cutout for the oprod. One method you could use is to put some ink on the oprod in the area's you suspect are rubbing. Then do the tilt test to see if any ink has transferred to the wood. If so, you know exactly where and how much wood to remove. Dan AKA: Canes7 (CMP Forum) Aloha, Mark |
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