I am getting set up to handload 357 Sig and could use suggestions on bullet

selection.  I am aware of the Montana Gold Sig bullet.  Are there any lead or

plated bullets that are being used with this cartridge?  


I plan on using once fired Speer cases, forming and decapping with a Dillon

40 carbide die, them  shoulder bump and neck size with a LEE 357 Sig die finishing with a Lee FCD.

Only powder I have to use is Accurate 7.

Any help with load technique and bullet selection for the this cartridge would also be appreciated.

Thanks for the help.
primerhead

I use the 124gr truncated cone bullet from Berrys.  Last I looked, they were not in stock.  Dillon and Grafs sometimes has them too.  

I load them with Unique and I use the Dillon dies.  These need a good crimp, but with the FCD that shouldn't be an issue.

Just make sure you have god neck tension and load to proper length are the only things I've run into.

What you need is a 9mm bullet with long parallel sides (bearing surface) so that when seated at proper depth, there is still a good surface for the small case neck to grip.  

And you need to insure that the bullet will not be driven back into the case when chambered in semi auto as with this ctg. it will raise pressure.

When shopping for cast bullets, I use a pair of dial calipers to visually check the bearing surface of the bullet.  If there is little bullet sticking above the top of the bearing surface, the bullet will probably work in the .357.  One jacketed bullet that I have shot a lot is the Hornady 124 XTP hollow point.  Off hand, I cannot remember any 115 bullet that I have looked at that has enough bearing surface.    I have some cast bullets that I think will work.  I will check Mfg etc and try and post further.

I have used berry's and rainier plated flat points in the past but would occasionaly see where the plating was peeling off, currently running through a 3k batch of zero jacketed flat points for 357 sig.  Be cautious with those speer cases, as speer typically uses smaller flash holes in 357 sig, and often are smaller then your decapping pin.  Go slow, and it wont hurt to have an extra pin (for a dedicated decapping die) or with the lee dies i sometimes have to use the 40 die to push the pin out of the case after it gets stuck in the case and pulled out of the 357 sig die.

Most of my cases I have drilled out the flash hole, i believe 5/64 bit matches most other manufactures.

BMDs advice on the Speer cases is spot on.  Having your decapping pin stick in the flash hole is a stopper for progressive reloading.  Segregate Speer cases until you fix them.  Since .357 Sig cases are a bit hard to come by, I drilled out the flash holes also.  After drilling, they are still a little smaller than other mfg flash holes, but do not catch the decapping pin.

Been using the Dillon 40 carbide, in the Rockchucker, to resize the case body and decap.  Noticed right away the extra

lever pressure needed.  This works out, been through about 500 cases and the Dillon decapping pin is holding up to the

pressure.

Why is drilling necessary?  The Dillon pin pops out the spent primers and slightly enlarges the flash hole.  Pin doesn't

get stuck in the primer hole, comes right out when I lower the ram.

Now I understand what you mean by needing a bullet with parallel sides in the case neck area.

Is the limiting factor of the COL determined by cartridge fitting and feeding from the magazine?

Thanks for the help and advice.
primerhead