I just traded for a standard model M1A (my first one).  It has the NM sights and lighter barrel.  What can I expect accuracy wise?  It also came with this VLTOR stock and a scope setup.  Just curious if this is a current generation stock amd what it might be worth if I sell it?  Also would like some info on the scope mount.  It is KFS Industries.  Is it good quality and value?

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Not sure why my pics aren't showing up...

Just realized that's a feature now..  thanks!

That looks like the Improved Modstock that I just got.
Look inside the barrel channel up towards where the gas cylinder sits. Is there a stylized "V" just aft of the recess for the sling attachment flat?

Yes, there is

Ok, then I -think- that means you have the improved modstock. The first gen was reclaimed GI fiberglass stocks, and the next gen are purpose built synthetic stocks, which I believe all have the V as VLTOR manufactured those. Someone will correct me if I’m wrong. But I would expect the reclaimed GI stocks would not have that V.

That would make sense.

As far as accuracy, I think that will vary from rifle to rifle, but the rifles were meant to be as much as I think 5 or 6 MOA and still pass. That said I think the general experience is 1-3 MOA.
What I’ve gathered is that replacing the stamped flat recoil spring guide with a NM and making sure your gas cylinder is tight/shimmed/unitized are basic steps that can improve your accuracy. There’s a whole lot of things that can be improved/tweaked/adjusted/checked to potentially improve accuracy but keep in mind what the original spec for the rifle was as a lot of people end up pouring money into it chasing an unrealistic expectation of accuracy. Putting it in a chassis (one with a tensioner) is another thing, but that can get expensive and you’ve already got the VLTOR.

Thanks for the info!  I like the old school/original look and will probably sell the VLTOR stock.  May switch to a wood stock.  Is the scope mount decent?  I couldn't find much on it other than it may be a mil spec copy?

The preferred scope mounts seem to be the Sadlak and Bassett Machine for what’s currently produced. The ARMS #18 is still a high demand item, but I don’t think it is made anymore.
The Sadlak has some unique steps to install, and you may have to use a micrometer to measure your receiver and then send the mount to Sadlak to have them fit it to your rifle (you don’t send the rifle, that’s what the measurements are for) but it is supposed to be among the best. The Bassett is pretty much you just screw it on and use the include torque tool, and you don’t have to modify anything or secure the mount to the clip slot.
The third and 4th gen SAI mount is either really good or really bad. You do have to use a mallet to fit the splines, so there’s that.
There is also the M14.ca CASM which replaces your rear sight assembly and gives you a very low rail. It does have a version of a peep sight so you can use that but pretty much only at close range.

I think your scope mount is the Brookfield mount, which is also one of the top tier mounts. So you got a pretty good mount there with that one.
ETA:
The stock new runs around 520-580. Yours has a standard A2 grip and the OEM grip is different, unless you got that with the stock too.

It came with the A2 grip but I think I have an FDE Magpul grip laying around I'll throw on there.

Ammo selection is paramount for accuracy. Try m118 lr or Federal 168 grain gold medal match to ascertain how well your rifle shoots.

Do you reload?

I have both of those to try out!  I unfortunately don't reload.

If you want to shoot a 308 frequently without going broke set yourself up to reload.

While I am not rich ,not poor either, but there is no way I could afford to shoot as much as I do without reloading

The scope mount is a Keng's Firearms Specialty, Inc. three point scope mount. It's good quality. Receiver geometry and correct installation are usually more of a concern with the three point scope mounts. HTH

My M1A was a 2.5-3 MOA shooter before I shimmed the gas system. Brought it down to MOA with 155 Prvi HPBT.

What is shimming the gas system?

Obvious safety warning: Make sure the rifle is unloaded and there is no cartridge in the chamber before proceeding below.

Shimming the gas system means to place one or two stainless steel circular shaped shims between the gas cylinder and the gas cylinder lock. Gas cylinder shims come in different thicknesses. By trial and error, you select one or two shims that cause the gas cylinder lock to easily thread on to the barrel until stopping at about 5:00 o'clock as viewed by looking toward the receiver from the muzzle. The gas cylinder lock is then gently pushed by hand (a gentle snug) to line up with the gas cylinder. Then install the gas piston and the gas cylinder plug. Do not over torque the gas cylinder plug. Obviously, the flash suppressor and flash suppressor nut (or other muzzle attachment), gas cylinder plug, and gas cylinder lock must be removed first. It makes sense to remove the gas piston as well so it doesn't fall out of the gas cylinder unexpectedly during this procedure. The flash suppressor nut should not be too loose or too tight against the flash suppressor during reassembly. The flash suppressor nut setscrew should easily thread into one of the slots of the flash suppressor nut using a hex head wrench. You'll have to adjust the position of the flash suppressor nut on the muzzle threads in small movements to get it to line up with the setscrew. To remove and install the flash suppressor nut, use M14/M1A flash suppressor nut pliers.

Ammunition quality is key. Ball ammo sucks 90% of the time.

Your accuracy "potential" will be revealed when you try 168/175 grain Sierra Match King bullets.