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Posted: 7/9/2016 3:51:04 PM EDT
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So I bought my first M1 from the CMP a while back and have only taken it to the range twice and have had issues with the trigger assembly both times.
About half the time I'll successfully fire one round and chamber the next one but it's like the trigger does not get cocked and I have to cycle the action by hand. Or I will successfully fire one round and chamber the next but get a FTF malfunction. When I pull the trigger the hammer drops but the round does not fire. When I eject that round it looks like a light primer strike. At first I thought it was the ammo (Greek surplus from the CMP) but during my first trip to the range the trigger guard popped out. While this is not me it shows the issue I was having. 
Not wanting to risk doing any further damage I just put it back in the case and took it home. I tore everything down and looked it over the best I could and my untrained eye couldn't spot anything wrong. I wrote it off as maybe a lack of lube or bad ammo and me not assembly the rifle correctly. Last week I took it to the range again and had the same issues as before with the FTFs except this time the whole trigger group came out. I had just fired the last of 8 rounds and as the clip ejected out the top the whole trigger group popped out of the bottom. Here is the strange part. The trigger guard did not unlatch. It was still in place and hooked into the trigger housing. I did some research and a loose fit with the trigger assembly can cause the FTF failures I was seeing and the the unlatching in the youtube video can be fixed by either replacing the trigger guard or tweeking it so the hook catches in the trigger housing better. But that does not explain how the whole trigger assembly popped out without unlatching. Also, I can't see where anything is worn (like the pins on the trigger guard) that would cause it not to latch. Also, when I bought it the guy at the CMP used one of those tools to unlatch the trigger guard. Whether he had to or not I don't know, all I know is he used it. I know there is supposed to be some resistance when closing the trigger guard but mine moves with almost no resistance until you have to latch the trigger guard. I've read where shimming the trigger assembly can help with this but no idea on where the shims should go. Any help would be appreciated. |
The lugs on your trigger gaurd are either worn or the wood on your stock is compressed or both. A proper fitting trigger group the guard is very hard to close. It actually should stop about a inch away from closing and alot of force is required to push the end of the guard to contact the housing then snap closed.
In fact with new commercial stocks the fit is very tight and a rubber mallet is used to get the guard to close Look at the lug on your guard, if it is flat on this area that is part of the issue. The one in the picture has a slight flat area and will cause loose lock up 
The wood may be compressed where the reciver and trigger housing sets. You can nromally see a impression in the wood. This is al]very common with Garand surplus stocks. I have cut thin strips of walnut veneer and glued in place where the trigger housing sets to help in lock up |
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The lugs on your trigger gaurd are either worn or the wood on your stock is compressed or both. A proper fitting trigger group the guard is very hard to close. It actually should stop about a inch away from closing and alot of force is required to push the end of the guard to contact the housing then snap closed. <a href="http://s47.photobucket.com/user/Garandlover/media/misc/DSC00141_zpsvftnmqfk.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f197/Garandlover/misc/DSC00141_zpsvftnmqfk.jpg</a> In fact with new commercial stocks the fit is very tight and a rubber mallet is used to get the guard to close Look at the lug on your guard, if it is flat on this area that is part of the issue. The one in the picture has a slight flat area and will cause loose lock up <a href="http://s47.photobucket.com/user/Garandlover/media/misc/MVC-010S.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f197/Garandlover/misc/MVC-010S.jpg</a> The wood may be compressed where the reciver and trigger housing sets. You can nromally see a impression in the wood. This is al]very common with Garand surplus stocks. I have cut thin strips of walnut veneer and glued in place where the trigger housing sets to help in lock up Thanks! The pins are not worn so perhaps it is the wood that is compressed. I saw the guy at the CMP use that unlatching tool but couldn't tell if he needed to use it or not. It just may have been a force of habit type thing for him or arthritis. Where exactly do you glue the strips? Is it in the recess where the magazine plate sits? |
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Do you have a stamped or milled trigger guard? USGI stock or one of the new ones? I'm wondering if the geometry is way off on the other end (e.g. it never locked up right in the first place because receiver-to-TG distance was too great) based on: 1. Guy needed some sort of tool? to get it buttoned up 2. It fell out without opening. |
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It is a stamped trigger guard.
I cut some thin strips of notebook paper and added them one at a time to see if it improved how tight the trigger guard latch up got. I had to add about 8 strips of paper to each side of the magazine bottom plate before I started to get resistance. Those 8 strips of notebook paper are about equal to a real thin strip of wood vernier. The only thing I can do now is take it to the range and give it a shot. |
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In your video it shows a milled trigger guard Quoted:
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It is a stamped trigger guard. . In your video it shows a milled trigger guard That's not me in the video. I just grabbed one off of Youtube that shows almost the same failure as what I was seeing. |
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Have an H&R that would pop out every couple rounds or so. Stamped guards sometimes get bent a little, and a set of large slip joint pliers, padded jaws, and a little pressure to re-bend guard, and works fine. One jaw at latch, one at front of guard, and a little dab will do ya. If your's unlatches with little or no pressure, try this. |
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