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How i built my own rotary tumbler (Page 9 of 31)
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Originally Posted By Spanners:
Whats size drum would be required for 2000x 223 at a time and how much media? Same again for 100-200 338 LM Thanks You're talking around 27lbs of .223 brass. The general 'rule' discussed here and recommended by lots of people is to run more media than brass (by weight). Every 5lbs of media needs an approximately 1 gallon container. You are talking about a huge vessel to carry that much brass and medial. |
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You would need a really, really big drum.
At minimum a 7 gallon container. Roughly, if the brass is 27 lbs you'd need about 33 lbs of media. It would weigh about 110 lbs including water. Add another 20 lbs for the container and you're at 130 lbs. Do you have a crane in your reloading room ? You'd be better off buying a used cement truck. |
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I do 1200 to 1500 in a 5 gallon bucket with the screw-on lid. 1200 usually, 1500 if not tarnished. The bucket needs to be replaced about every 35K to 40K, the lids start to leak (the silicone joint between bucket and lid-collar) at about 20K and fail at about 35K. Generally speaking. |
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sorry i am a in a little late on this but been in canada with little internet.
my 3 gallon drum can do 22lbs of brass with 25lbs of media that is a 8" drum with total hight of 19.5 inches. you would probably want a 3.5 gallon to 4 gallon drum. can get you more info when i get back this weekend if needed |
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jmorris is a very talented fellow that hangs out at thehighroad.org. He built one using two 12.2 gallon buckets used to store pool chlorine tablets. (some that I have seen have screw-on lids) He was put off at smaller capacities so he made a bigger one. Here's the link.
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Made a new tube, 6" sewer pipe 1ft length but this time i used a 6 to 4 inch reducer and a rubber cap. So its a little over 1.5 gallons I assume.
Threw in 25 50 BMG cases which weights ~3lbs. tumbled for 3 hours, took out, It cleans it quite good but theres so much pitting to it.... Don't think I will be using wet tumbler for my BMG cases anymore. the one on left is wet tumbled, center is hand polished with mothers mag and alum polish, the right is tumbled a hour in walnut vibratory. 
Pic of the entire batch wet tumbled. 
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Another design ?? 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&v=PvGYfmbBYyg&NR=1 |
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Originally Posted By Husky79:
Made a new tube, 6" sewer pipe 1ft length but this time i used a 6 to 4 inch reducer and a rubber cap. So its a little over 1.5 gallons I assume. Threw in 25 50 BMG cases which weights ~3lbs. tumbled for 3 hours, took out, It cleans it quite good but theres so much pitting to it.... Don't think I will be using wet tumbler for my BMG cases anymore. the one on left is wet tumbled, center is hand polished with mothers mag and alum polish, the right is tumbled a hour in walnut vibratory. http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r515/Walleye05/20120922_004404_zps62687252.jpg Pic of the entire batch wet tumbled. http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r515/Walleye05/20120922_004519_zps8f4b92f9.jpg What pitting? I have wet tumbled plenty of 50 and not had any pitting. |
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Originally Posted By Husky79:
Made a new tube, 6" sewer pipe 1ft length but this time i used a 6 to 4 inch reducer and a rubber cap. So its a little over 1.5 gallons I assume. Threw in 25 50 BMG cases which weights ~3lbs. tumbled for 3 hours, took out, It cleans it quite good but theres so much pitting to it.... Don't think I will be using wet tumbler for my BMG cases anymore. the one on left is wet tumbled, center is hand polished with mothers mag and alum polish, the right is tumbled a hour in walnut vibratory. http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r515/Walleye05/20120922_004404_zps62687252.jpg Pic of the entire batch wet tumbled. http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r515/Walleye05/20120922_004519_zps8f4b92f9.jpg looks like you may have got some rough media is that the first batch you ran. mine are not pitted like that at all. there was someone else that had some cases come out like that. i think he ran some sand and water with the media to smooth them up. |
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Great thread guys ––- I've read thru the whole thing just recently and am beginning to acquire my parts ––
What are you guys doing for electric motors? I'm a regular shopper at surplus center and, at the moment, they don't seem to have any decently priced options –– Unless I'm just expecting too much How about stainless pins? I picked up 50 pounds of XL pins from Pellets LLC –– They are a new size offering to solve the problem of pins getting stuck in the flash hole –– They also are a little heavier making them easier to keep track of while rinsing At work I spend a lot of time doing sewer and drain work –– SDR 35 pipe from 4" to 8" generally but we do use larger at times –– I could help out with pipe, especially the larger stuff, if anyones having trouble sourcing short pieces –– I don't see why I couldn't ship it I'm no good for fittings though –– we use gasket stuff mostly –– I don't get any deals on solvent weld SDR 35 fittings Anyway –– Thanks Bigdawg for sharing your ideas –– Great Thread!!! |
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Originally Posted By Husky79:
Pic of the entire batch wet tumbled. http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r515/Walleye05/20120922_004519_zps8f4b92f9.jpg It looks like you might not have enough cases/media, and they're beating themselves up. Try filling the tumbler up more. |
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Thank you very much fellas! Built my tumbler this past weekend, had a chance to try her out today. Specs: 1/4 hp 1725rpm motor 1 1/2" drive pulley 4" shaft pully 6" pipe, 4" reducer with the rubber cap (no leaks!) - put 3 "baffles" - about a 9" tube length, over a gallon and change. OAL length is about 14" with the caps. BTW, don't use too much bonding agent on the caps...otherwise you won't be able to push the reducer all the way down onto the pipe - came up about an 1" short from bottoming out as it should have (lesson learned, but obviously no ill effect on not having the baffles run all the way up.). Cut down the overall length of the 1/2" diameter rods a bit, so I have about 18" actual workspace on the shafts - 1/2 heater hose shaft covers 2, 1 second squirts of Dawn, about 1/2 tsp of lemishine - ran it for 2 hours. First batch was 5lbs media, 3 lbs of brass (approx 210 .223 casings) - but I know this badass can run more. Next batch might try 7lb media, 4-4 1/2lbs brass. Built the frame out of 2' x 2' 1/2" plywood, 2x4s on edge...added handles to make it easier to move about. This thing friggin' rocks - thank you, thank you, thank you! Edit to add - who wants to by a vibratory tumbler cheap?    ETA - Today I ran 7lbs media and 5lbs of brass (~350 .223 casings), same amount of Dawn and 3, .45ACP casings full of Lemisine - 2 1/2 hours - same beautiful results! Aside from 1/2 the time it takes to clean casings as opposed to a vibratory tumbler, the biggest payoff is not having to clean out the primer pockets. |
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looks great
i agree you should be able to run 7-9lbs of media and 5-7lbs of brass in that drum. love the bling. have a batch of 20lbs of 6.5pcc going right now. congrats and good job. Originally Posted By HKgnnr:
Thank you very much fellas! Built my tumbler this past weekend, had a chance to try her out today. Specs: 1/4 hp 1725rpm motor 1 1/2" drive pulley 4" shaft pully 6" pipe, 4" reducer with the rubber cap (no leaks!) - put 3 "baffles" - about a 9" tube length, over a gallon and change. OAL length is about 14" with the caps.BTW, don't use too much bonding agent on the caps...otherwise you won't be able to push the reducer all the way down onto the pipe - came up about an 1" short from bottoming out as it should have (lesson learned, but obviously no ill effect on not having the baffles run all the way up.). Cut down the overall length of the 1/2" diameter rods a bit, so I have about 18" actual workspace on the shafts - 1/2 heater hose shaft covers 2, 1 second squirts of Dawn, about 1/2 tsp of lemishine - ran it for 2 hours. First batch was 5lbs media, 3 lbs of brass (approx 210 .223 casings) - but I know this badass can run more. Next batch might try 7lb media, 4-4 1/2lbs brass. Built the frame out of 2' x 2' 1/2" plywood, 2x4s on edge...added handles to make it easier to move about. This thing friggin' rocks - thank you, thank you, thank you!
Edit to add - who wants to by a vibratory tumbler cheap?
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff142/HKgnnr/Tumbler1.jpg http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff142/HKgnnr/Tumbler2.jpg |
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This thread is awesome. However, it is a bit overwhelming to me. Has anyone posted a complete list of parts and part numbers for the newest design tumbler? Links to specific parts and items would be great as well. If it's not already been done, I'll send a P-mag to the first person who is willing to put it together to save me the time of having to scour the last 11 pages to try and put a list together.
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Here's a Lowes shopping list for part #'s (off my receipts) of the reducers and end caps that will fit the SDR35 "green" sewer pipe: #182570 6"x4" PVC Reducer Coupling #122863 6" WHT PVC Sewer Cap I picked up the 4" rubber gasket cap with the included pipe clamp, and 6" diameter SDR 35 green sewer pipe (2' section) at Home Depot prior, but I think they sell that at Lowes too. |
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Here's my parts list for building a woodbase one... 1 1/2” Pulley - 1/2" ID shaft 4” Pulley - 1/2" ID shaft ½” I.D. Heater hose – but you can also buy this at an Auto Parts Store, and get at least 4 feet (about $9) 19” A19 Belt – this didnt come in time for the build, so I went with an A20 (22”) - 1/2” belt from an Autozone parts store Pillow Block Bushings (you'll need four) Power Cord for Motor – they also sell these types of replacement cords at Lowes/Home Depot As for the motor, I got mine off of Ebay...look for a 1/4HP, 1725RPM – and something with a base, so you can bolt it down – I paid about $55 delivered, so they are definitely "cheap” because there are so many. For the Drum, Lowes or Home Depot 1 1/2” - 2' length diameter pvc pipe – for making the fins 6” Diameter schedule 35 PVC – its green in color and located near the normal PVC 6”x4” PVC reducer – hard time finding this local, only 1 out of 3 Lowes nearby carried it 6” PVC end cap Don't forget the primer and adhesive!  4” black rubber gasket with included pipe clamp – this is for the lid. 2, 1/2” diameter 36” Steel rods – I went with the non zinc coated, as the zinc ones I had picked up wouldnt fit into the bushing without pounding them/grinding them down) Went with 3/4” #10 bolts and nuts/washers for affixing the fins inside the drum - flat head, with the beveled machine "screws" because you'll have to countersink them a bit. The base I made with a 2' x 2' sheet of plywood – You can usually find these smaller pieces in the cabinet making section of a Lowes or Home Dept – just make sure you get a nice level and flat one. 1, 8' pressure treated 2”x4” Some 2” deck screws, or the equivalent will suffice - grab some 16d nails too Also, I picked up 2, RS bearings - these are mounted on the base, near the pillow bushings, used to keep the drum from drifting on the rails - I attached these with some 4" long 1/4 bolts washers and spacers. So if the drum starts riding the rails towards one end or another - these just roll smoothly against the base or end cap. These use 1/4" bolts. http://www.ebay.com/itm/390264447862?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 ...oops, almost forgot - the magic solution - Lemi-Shine dish detergent additive and Dawn dish detergent from Walmart. |
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Originally Posted By LonelyRaven:
Thanks for that shopping list! Where did you get the rods? That's where I'm hung up as well. 1/2 inc zinc plated rods –– I buy 36” and cut to size like thishttp://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25ecodZ5yc1v/R-202183547/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=zinc+rod&storeId=10051#.UG7Nypjqss0 |
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Thanks BD! I'm ordering my pillow bearings off ebay this week. I was hoping to find a stepped pulley that goes up to 6" so I could adjust the speed and see what my results are at various RPM. I'm getting closer to putting mine together finally! I've got two motors sitting in the garage ready to go!
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Well, I bit the bullet and ordered all of my parts today. When they arrive I'll make a run to Lowes to pick up the material for the frame and drum. Hopefully I'l get over to my buddy's shop to get it welded up this week! ETA: I'm sure it's posted several times throughout the thread, but what's the best (cheapest) source for SS media? Thanks again.
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Originally Posted By Andielouroo: Well, I bit the bullet and ordered all of my parts today. When they arrive I'll make a run to Lowes to pick up the material for the frame and drum. Hopefully I'l get over to my buddy's shop to get it welded up this week! ETA: I'm sure it's posted several times throughout the thread, but what's the best (cheapest) source for SS media? Thanks again. Here are links to some sources: http://www.buffaloarms.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=164066 http://www.stainlesstumblingmedia.com/stainless-tumbling-media.html http://www.pelletsllc.com/ Brownells and Midway also sell it I believe. I ordered from Buffalo Arms - cheaper shipping, at least in my case. FWIW, shipping was very fast. Also I ordered 12lbs, and I'd suggest at least ordering 7lbs for the 8-9" drum you'll probably be running. I've had great results with the 7lbs of media and 5lbs of brass (~350 .223 casings) in my 9" drum. |
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Originally Posted By Andielouroo:
Wow, I had to order the stupid 6" to 4" reducer online as literally no home improvement store or plumbing supply house has one in all of Las Vegas.  Guess I'll have to wait until next week to try the tumbler out. thats a bummer but the wait will be worth it post up some pics of your masterpiece when you get to it. |
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I've got a hand-me-down motor, pillow bearings, and the pulleys just arrived. I'm having trouble finding the 1/2" shafts locally. I found 1/2" Stainless Steel threaded shafts which might work. Tomorrow I'm picking up some 2X4, and 1/2" hose and V-belt, and hopefully the PVC to make a barrel. I need to build a custom mount for my motor since it was pulled from a retired furnace...lots of detail work, but that just makes me appreciate the project that much more! |
Well, I still haven't had a chance to meet up with my buddy to weld up my frame, so I decided to just build it out of some 2x2s I had sitting around. I'm still waiting on the mail order parts for my drum that I couldn't get locally, but here's a pic of the tumbler. |
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Nice! I got my 1/2" heater hose and A21 belt today. You wouldn't believe how difficult it is to get a belt if they can't look it up in the computer! Apparently A21 isn't as common as it used to be...many companies come up with their own model number for a basic belt. So I had to look up a comparison chart on my phone, and we eventually came up with a match for John Deere tracker! LOL I was also complete bust on the 6" tube setup. I'm going to assemble my rig on wood tomorrow and see about using a screw on top for my spare 5 gallon buckets. I need to review this thread and see how people installed the agitators in the barrels, I'm hoping to do that to the 5 gallon bucket tonight, but I'm too tired.
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Originally Posted By LonelyRaven:
Nice! I got my 1/2" heater hose and A21 belt today. You wouldn't believe how difficult it is to get a belt if they can't look it up in the computer! Apparently A21 isn't as common as it used to be...many companies come up with their own model number for a basic belt. So I had to look up a comparison chart on my phone, and we eventually came up with a match for John Deere tracker! LOL I was also complete bust on the 6" tube setup. I'm going to assemble my rig on wood tomorrow and see about using a screw on top for my spare 5 gallon buckets. I need to review this thread and see how people installed the agitators in the barrels, I'm hoping to do that to the 5 gallon bucket tonight, but I'm too tired. Not sure where you're at in IL, but Lowes carries a 2' section of green 6" tubing for just under $20. It's not in with the rest of the pvc, but more in a garden / outdoor drainage section. Then you just need the fittings from there, which I found easily at Menard's. |
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Originally Posted By Andielouroo:
So, my first batch of brass is tumbling now, but my motor is running a bit hot. I just want to make sure this is normal. Also, what type of oil do I use for a Dayton 3k771 motor? my motors always run a little warm hasn't been a problem in a year. i think you can use pretty much any oil |
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Originally Posted By Andielouroo:
Also, what type of oil do I use for a Dayton 3k771 motor? [/div]
Does the Dayton have an internal fan? Does the tag say thermally protected? Where exactly would you put the oil? The motor I have says oilless, has an internal fan, and is thermally protected –– If it gets too hot it will shut down to protect itself |
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I cobbled this together from scraps around the garage and parts from the parts lists in the previous pages. The motor is an HVAC motor that a friend gave me that is 1750RPM at 120v.It supposedly has two speeds, I'm still trying to figure out the wiring for that, but for a free motor, I'm not going to complain. I only had to modify the hamster cage style mount to bolt it town to the wood platform. My final version will be metal, this was just my proof of concept (plus I couldn't sleep last night) I'm not sure how to link a video in these forums, so hopefully that link works for you. Now I just need to get my brass/water/steel/limishine/detergent mix figured out. The first batch I did came out dark, not bright and shiny. |
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Originally Posted By LonelyRaven: Off the top of my head:I cobbled this together from scraps around the garage and parts from the parts lists in the previous pages. The motor is an HVAC motor that a friend gave me that is 1750RPM at 120v.It supposedly has two speeds, I'm still trying to figure out the wiring for that, but for a free motor, I'm not going to complain. I only had to modify the hamster cage style mount to bolt it town to the wood platform. My final version will be metal, this was just my proof of concept (plus I couldn't sleep last night) I'm not sure how to link a video in these forums, so hopefully that link works for you. Now I just need to get my brass/water/steel/limishine/detergent mix figured out. The first batch I did came out dark, not bright and shiny. First, Very nice.  For a 5 gallon bucket I use about 1200 to 1500 5.56 rounds, 15 Lbs of pins, fill it to about 1.5 to 2 inches from the top with water and I use about 1.5 12 gauge shotgun hulls of Dawn and a bout .75 hulls of Lemi-Shin. I use 2 different shotgun hulls so one stays dry. If the brass is dirty or really tarnished I use more Dawn and Lemi-Shine. 60RPM gets it done in 75 minutes. I use 2 fiberglass paddles inside. They're made from a 1 inch square fiberglass tubing from a deck job I did. I cut it on the diagonal into 2 'L' shaped pieces. I affixed them to the inside of the bucket with S.S. machine screws/washers/nuts, with a gasket of silicon caulk between the paddle and bucket. it seals the screw holes, and keeps pins from wedging between the paddle and bucket. I also have to squirt an additional gasket of silicone caulk into the adapter that snaps onto the bucket. It keeps the bucket from leaking at the joint between the adapter and bucket for about 40 to 50 loads at a time, and then ultimately fails. The buckets wear out at the screw holes and leak after about 100 loads or so. And it looks like your belt is a little loose. Good luck. |
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Originally Posted By kaos: Originally Posted By LonelyRaven: Off the top of my head:I cobbled this together from scraps around the garage and parts from the parts lists in the previous pages. The motor is an HVAC motor that a friend gave me that is 1750RPM at 120v.It supposedly has two speeds, I'm still trying to figure out the wiring for that, but for a free motor, I'm not going to complain. I only had to modify the hamster cage style mount to bolt it town to the wood platform. My final version will be metal, this was just my proof of concept (plus I couldn't sleep last night) I'm not sure how to link a video in these forums, so hopefully that link works for you. Now I just need to get my brass/water/steel/limishine/detergent mix figured out. The first batch I did came out dark, not bright and shiny. First, Very nice. For a 5 gallon bucket I use about 1200 to 1500 5.56 rounds, 15 Lbs of pins, fill it to about 1.5 to 2 inches from the top with water and I use about 1.5 12 gauge shotgun hulls of Dawn and a bout .75 hulls of Lemi-Shin. I use 2 different shotgun hulls so one stays dry. If the brass is dirty or really tarnished I use more Dawn and Lemi-Shine. 60RPM gets it done in 75 minutes. I use 2 fiberglass paddles inside. They're made from a 1 inch square fiberglass tubing from a deck job I did. I cut it on the diagonal into 2 'L' shaped pieces. I affixed them to the inside of the bucket with S.S. machine screws/washers/nuts, with a gasket of silicon caulk between the paddle and bucket. it seals the screw holes, and keeps pins from wedging between the paddle and bucket. I also have to squirt an additional gasket of silicone caulk into the adapter that snaps onto the bucket. It keeps the bucket from leaking at the joint between the adapter and bucket for about 40 to 50 loads at a time, and then ultimately fails. The buckets wear out at the screw holes and leak after about 100 loads or so. And it looks like your belt is a little loose. Good luck. Thanks for that, it's exactly what I needed. I need to add paddles inside the bucket, and about 7# more SS media. I already siliconed the ring on the bucket because it leaked right off the bat. I tried tightening up the belt, it's pretty stiff and that's as tight as I can get it with my current motor mount setup. It doesn't slip so I'm not really worried about it right now. But then, if I add as much water and steel as you're saying, I might need to tighten it down.
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This thread is fascinating. I want to build one of these when I start reloading (soon).
A thought. Would there be any benefit to raising the motor a little higher, putting a drive pulley on each rod and making both rods drive the container instead of just one or is that a solution without a problem? I was thinking you could put the switch below the motor to make it a little more compact. |
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Originally Posted By M-60:
This thread is fascinating. I want to build one of these when I start reloading (soon). A thought. Would there be any benefit to raising the motor a little higher, putting a drive pulley on each rod and making both rods drive the container instead of just one or is that a solution without a problem? I was thinking you could put the switch below the motor to make it a little more compact. in my opinion it is a solution where there is no problem. but you can build yours how ever you like. some guys run pulleys on the opposite end of the motor to turn the rear shaft. i have run mine for over a year now with just one driven shaft and have had zero problems with turning the drum and i run up to 90lbs in my large drum. |
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If your looking for a cheap motor, try the heating and cooling businesses in the area. I picked up a working 1/3 hp motor for free. Just make sure to ask for a belt driven motor. I guess the new HACV equipment uses direct drives now rather than belt driven. CM |
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I haven't worked my way completely through this thread yet but I've got two questions. I've got a 1/4hp bench grinder I'm not using that should work great as a motor. Would it run cool enough for long periods? Maybe put a fan blowing on it?
Also, do you have to have some type of baffles/paddles in the drum? I can't figure out how you would attach them to the inside of a piece of PVC or bottle. |
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Originally Posted By supercrew:
I haven't worked my way completely through this thread yet but I've got two questions. I've got a 1/4hp bench grinder I'm not using that should work great as a motor. Would it run cool enough for long periods? Maybe put a fan blowing on it? Also, do you have to have some type of baffles/paddles in the drum? I can't figure out how you would attach them to the inside of a piece of PVC or bottle. I have seen others use a grinder motor so it should work they spin faster so you will have to figure out your pulleys for that. i use 2" pvc cut in 1/3's and use stainless screws to attach and i hide them under the caps like the pics below 
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Biggdawg:
That is excellent idea. After I posted I found how you did it mounting the machine screws under the 2 end caps. But in the pics above you show a third machine screw in the middle of the drum. Since there is no cap over these how do you keep them from leaking? This is one remarkable thread. I'm seeing some real creativity, showing there is always a way to beat the commercially made equipment. Ya'll are brilliant! |
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Originally Posted By supercrew:
Biggdawg: That is excellent idea. After I posted I found how you did it mounting the machine screws under the 2 end caps. But in the pics above you show a third machine screw in the middle of the drum. Since there is no cap over these how do you keep them from leaking? This is one remarkable thread. I'm seeing some real creativity, showing there is always a way to beat the commercially made equipment. Ya'll are brilliant! this was my first drum, i used silicone and rubber washer to seal it. now i just use the 2 screws one on each end and i have had zero problems. i am still using the one with 3 screws and it still don't leak. and thanks for the compliments they are appreciated. |
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What happened to your EE add? I have searched for it but cant find it. These kind of messages should be done with an IM, not a post in a thread. If BIGGDAWG answers I'm sure it will be in an IM. See Specific to Sales #2 in the COC. dryflash3 |
How i built my own rotary tumbler (Page 9 of 31)
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