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1/22/2020 12:12:56 PM
Posted: 9/24/2007 9:50:46 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/8/2007 9:31:46 AM EST by AJE]
I was shooting my 10/22 the other day with my brand spanking new Outback II.

I was watching my beautiful future wife pinging some little swinging targets. She would nail them pretty consistently but a few shots were WAY off. I looked at the end of the suppressor and saw a little streak on the business end of it. I had some trouble getting it zeroed but I didn't add it up at that time.

Sure enough, I take the barrel off and I can just see a little sliver of the end of the can when I look down the bore. I put my cleaning rod through it and it's just barley off of the one side.

The local guy that did the barrel threading isn't just some hack, he builds some quality shit. I spoke with him about it and he insisted the threads were true with the bore. I deer hunt with the guy and I know he wouldn't screw me around. I messed with the barrel a little by screwing a flash hider on it and rolling the barrel on my bench. I can't notice any play in the end of the flash hider, although it is half the length of the suppressor.

If I roll the barrel on the bench with the suppressor on I can see that it's not 100% in line. If I take it off and roll the suppressor by itself it looks like there could be a little play in the thread insert.

So... ???

UPDATED below
Link Posted: 9/24/2007 9:58:52 AM EST
This is mostly a tag but,

I think I would contact Gemtec, telling them the same you said here and be prepaired to send in the suppressor and barrel for their evaluation.
Link Posted: 9/24/2007 10:03:36 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/24/2007 10:05:36 AM EST by TommyBrown]
Send the barrel and silencer into Gemtech and pay them to fix it.

Crack the silencer loose from the shoulder, is there much thread wobble, does it look straight when on the threads but look crooked when it tightens up on the shoulder.

Does your excellent gunsmith do threading for silencers routinely or just recoil comps?

Assuming your gunsmith has a lathe, have his chuck the silencer in his lathe, screw a 1/2X28 tap into the threaded end of the silencer, turn on the lathe and check for a lot of wobble as the tap rotates.
Link Posted: 9/24/2007 10:04:23 AM EST
I will be calling Gemtech... I tried it on my P22 and couldn't SEE it either way, but I took the slide off and tried it with the rod through the barrel and it's definitely off a little bit.

I'll keep you posted but I've heard Gemtech's service is great.
Link Posted: 9/24/2007 10:09:38 AM EST

Originally Posted By TommyBrown:
Send the barrel and silencer into Gemtech and pay them to fix it.

Crack the silencer loose from the shoulder, is there much thread wobble, does it look straight when on the threads but look crooked when it tightens up on the shoulder.

Does your excellent gunsmith do threading for silencers routinely or just recoil comps?


He kept the silencer and fit the threads on the barrel to it... there is very little wobble at all. Tightness wise it feels like the prom queen virgin compared to the P22 thread adapter's bus station whore. With the barrel so short on that it's hard to see if it's crooked at all and I don't have a way to roll it due to the design of the pistol, but the cleaning rod gave it away.

He does precision bench rifles most of the time, and sometimes builds his own barrels. He doesn't specialize in them, but he has worked with suppressors before.
Link Posted: 9/24/2007 10:16:14 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/24/2007 10:16:53 AM EST by wildearp]
Look for a gap at the thread shoulder when the can is mounted. Hold it up to good light and check. If there is any perceptable gap, install a peel washer to fill the gap and recheck alignment. My barrel was not threaded with a relief cut at the shoulder, preventing seating, and subsequent end cap strikes.

Gem-tech told me on the phone that the relief cut was unnecessary, but it most certainly is for this case.

I had the same problem installing the Bi-lock, no relief cut. This would be a real easy mod to the Outback and to the Bi-lock to prevent this from ever happening.
Link Posted: 9/24/2007 10:47:35 AM EST

Originally Posted By wildearp:
Look for a gap at the thread shoulder when the can is mounted. Hold it up to good light and check. If there is any perceptable gap, install a peel washer to fill the gap and recheck alignment. My barrel was not threaded with a relief cut at the shoulder, preventing seating, and subsequent end cap strikes.

Gem-tech told me on the phone that the relief cut was unnecessary, but it most certainly is for this case.

I had the same problem installing the Bi-lock, no relief cut. This would be a real easy mod to the Outback and to the Bi-lock to prevent this from ever happening.


I couldn't see any.

I just packaged it up and will ship it out there. I'll post when I get it back.
Link Posted: 10/8/2007 9:33:42 AM EST
I had a message on my phone from PHD this morning letting me know there was a problem with the thread insert and it was replaced. He also said that my threads were slightly oversized and he re threaded my barrel for me at no charge.

So a big for Gemtech. I should have it back in a couple of days.

Link Posted: 10/8/2007 11:04:08 AM EST
Awesome!
Link Posted: 10/8/2007 12:42:37 PM EST

Originally Posted By AJE:
I had a message on my phone from PHD this morning letting me know there was a problem with the thread insert and it was replaced. He also said that my threads were slightly oversized and he re threaded my barrel for me at no charge.


Nice that Doc Dater fixed the issue with his product, but still, IMHO you ought to pay the man for his work on your barrel, even if he did offer not to charge you.
Link Posted: 10/8/2007 1:07:31 PM EST

Originally Posted By hrt4me:

Originally Posted By AJE:
I had a message on my phone from PHD this morning letting me know there was a problem with the thread insert and it was replaced. He also said that my threads were slightly oversized and he re threaded my barrel for me at no charge.


Nice that Doc Dater fixed the issue with his product, but still, IMHO you ought to pay the man for his work on your barrel, even if he did offer not to charge you.


I wouldn't have asked for it to be done, and I wasn't expecting it. The threads weren't mil spec, they were made off of a mold of the silencer, so they were pretty tight.

I didn't post it after I talked with him, but I did speak to PHD on the phone and he said that he thinks that there needs to be a little more play in the threads then there was. Am I going to argue with the guy that makes silencers for a living? I'm a cop, not a machinist.

He didn't tell me, "I'm going to fix it for you" or "you need to get it fixed". I told him "I just want it to shoot straight, that's all I care about" I didn't think to ask him on the phone "will I be charged?" because I figured that if it was a problem with my barrel, then it would be my responsibility to pay for it, especially after posting my problem here. From the message I got today, the part was replaced in the suppressor. I'm guessing that's where the problem was, and he took it upon himself to put more appropriate threading on the barrel. If PHD reads this and I am wrong about something, I'd be glad to pay him for the work he did, and I'd encourage him to post or IM me.

I'll continue to buy Gemtech products and convey my positive thoughts on their customer service. It's not like there are any Gemtech bashing websites out there...
Link Posted: 10/8/2007 2:21:22 PM EST
When I had an issue with my Cougar/ SOS45 setup, PHD fixed it and had it sent back to me before I could pay anything, so no issues there. I paid them by buying another silencer from them. :)
Link Posted: 10/8/2007 3:01:25 PM EST

Originally Posted By NightOwl:
When I had an issue with my Cougar/ SOS45 setup, PHD fixed it and had it sent back to me before I could pay anything, so no issues there. I paid them by buying another silencer from them. :)


I think I've got a HALO in my future
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