Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login

Site Notices
Posted: 8/30/2015 12:38:45 AM EST
[Last Edit: 8/30/2015 1:30:17 AM EST by ewetstone]
After spending some time on SD Tactical Arms Site I have become intrigued in doing a form 1 D cell suppressor build for a 300BLK SBR.

My question is....is it really as simple as it appears? It looks like they sell pretty much all you need to assemble a basic can.

I have no doubt that there are far more complex designs but please tell me if I missed something for a first time basic build....

- Rear thread protector for direct thread in size you want (ex...5/8x24 for 7.62)
- Threaded tube which they sell or a Maglite tube
- End cap
- Freeze plugs and centering tool
- SDTA Challenge Coin

Are spacers needed between the baffles/freeze plugs? Is the only real machining the drilling of the end cap and the plugs or is there other machining required?

Finally ...what kind of db numbers can I expect with the above design on a 300BLK 10.3" SBR?

My other question is Do I need a completed Form 1 stamp before I assemble or before any holes are drilled in freeze plugs or end cap?
Link Posted: 8/30/2015 6:21:07 AM EST
Originally Posted By ewetstone:
After spending some time on SD Tactical Arms Site I have become intrigued in doing a form 1 D cell suppressor build for a 300BLK SBR.

My question is....is it really as simple as it appears? It looks like they sell pretty much all you need to assemble a basic can.

Yes, it's fairly easy.

I have no doubt that there are far more complex designs but please tell me if I missed something for a first time basic build....

- Rear thread protector for direct thread in size you want (ex...5/8x24 for 7.62)
- Threaded tube which they sell or a Maglite tube
- End cap
- Freeze plugs and centering tool
- SDTA Challenge Coin

You are going to need a heavy vice or preferably a shop press to form your cones. If you were just a little closer you could borrow mine.


Are spacers needed between the baffles/freeze plugs? Is the only real machining the drilling of the end cap and the plugs or is there other machining required?

Not needed with FPs. The skirt acts as a spacer. There's differing opinions whether some of the plugs should be spaced out more near the beginning of the stack.


Finally ...what kind of db numbers can I expect with the above design on a 300BLK 10.3" SBR?

Need a different suppressor junky to answer this one since I don't own any 300blk guns.


My other question is Do I need a completed Form 1 stamp before I assemble or before any holes are drilled in freeze plugs or end cap?

Yes. Once you start drilling holes, you are making silencer parts. Have your stamp in hand before you start drilling.


View Quote



If you like making things, Do it. It's fun.

You didn't mention if you own any commercial cans (I think you do).

I don't think I would suggest a Form 1 as a first can. Mostly because if you aren't satisfied with the sound I'd be worried that it would sour the user on future cans. And we need all the NFA owners we can get.
Link Posted: 8/30/2015 8:16:16 AM EST
You and the other poster have it. Without seeing real data on that challenge coin,well the idea is interesting but I'd like to see real world results.

You can use FP's as is in a:

======[ ]]]]]]]]]]

Where == is the barrel, your end cap, blast camber space, stacked freeze plugs, end cap.

You will/should need a blast chamber of between 1.25 and 1.75 inches, jury is out IMO on where the best length is because legally you cannot change the count of plugs, nor can you have extra baffles that changing the configuration would cause. I go with just enough blast chamber to clear my muzzle brakes, I use Griffin Armanent taper mounts on most of my F1's.

Your freeze plugs will work better if you put a cone in them. You can get dies for this on Ebay for around $90-$100 or you can pick up a set of sloped torx bits like they show in SDTA, or you use a lathe center bit. The plugs will work in a flat shape but you'll be happier if yo ucone them. The whole thing is you want to keep the gas in the tube for the longest amount of time and having the gas go through a /\ shape pointy end first means some of it bleeds off into the space, then has to backtrack a longer distance before it can go forward again.

You'll have to wade through the two ginormous threads on F1's the $100 and $250 ones but you can get a lot of information there along with hearing how people would change the way they did things.

Me I tried various methods of making cones and in the end picked up one of the ebay dies. They may not be quite as deep as ones I can do with torx bits and or various cone shapes but they're always centered and they never split and tear which I had a fair problem with with other methods. And when I get my current open F1's done I'll sell it on the EE with some expectation of getting back a fair chunk of what I put into it.

Link Posted: 8/30/2015 3:10:06 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By goloud:



If you like making things, Do it. It's fun.

You didn't mention if you own any commercial cans (I think you do).

I don't think I would suggest a Form 1 as a first can. Mostly because if you aren't satisfied with the sound I'd be worried that it would sour the user on future cans. And we need all the NFA owners we can get.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By goloud:
Originally Posted By ewetstone:
After spending some time on SD Tactical Arms Site I have become intrigued in doing a form 1 D cell suppressor build for a 300BLK SBR.

My question is....is it really as simple as it appears? It looks like they sell pretty much all you need to assemble a basic can.

Yes, it's fairly easy.

I have no doubt that there are far more complex designs but please tell me if I missed something for a first time basic build....

- Rear thread protector for direct thread in size you want (ex...5/8x24 for 7.62)
- Threaded tube which they sell or a Maglite tube
- End cap
- Freeze plugs and centering tool
- SDTA Challenge Coin

You are going to need a heavy vice or preferably a shop press to form your cones. If you were just a little closer you could borrow mine.


Are spacers needed between the baffles/freeze plugs? Is the only real machining the drilling of the end cap and the plugs or is there other machining required?

Not needed with FPs. The skirt acts as a spacer. There's differing opinions whether some of the plugs should be spaced out more near the beginning of the stack.


Finally ...what kind of db numbers can I expect with the above design on a 300BLK 10.3" SBR?

Need a different suppressor junky to answer this one since I don't own any 300blk guns.


My other question is Do I need a completed Form 1 stamp before I assemble or before any holes are drilled in freeze plugs or end cap?



Yes. Once you start drilling holes, you are making silencer parts. Have your stamp in hand before you start drilling.





If you like making things, Do it. It's fun.

You didn't mention if you own any commercial cans (I think you do).

I don't think I would suggest a Form 1 as a first can. Mostly because if you aren't satisfied with the sound I'd be worried that it would sour the user on future cans. And we need all the NFA owners we can get.


Yes...I currently own a AAC Ti Rant 9 and waiting Stamps for a Gemtech GM-45 and a AAC Ti Rant 45.
Link Posted: 8/30/2015 3:55:37 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Tophatman:
You and the other poster have it. Without seeing real data on that challenge coin,well the idea is interesting but I'd like to see real world results.

You can use FP's as is in a:

======[ ]]]]]]]]]]

Where == is the barrel, your end cap, blast camber space, stacked freeze plugs, end cap.

You will/should need a blast chamber of between 1.25 and 1.75 inches, jury is out IMO on where the best length is because legally you cannot change the count of plugs, nor can you have extra baffles that changing the configuration would cause. I go with just enough blast chamber to clear my muzzle brakes, I use Griffin Armanent taper mounts on most of my F1's.

Your freeze plugs will work better if you put a cone in them. You can get dies for this on Ebay for around $90-$100 or you can pick up a set of sloped torx bits like they show in SDTA, or you use a lathe center bit. The plugs will work in a flat shape but you'll be happier if yo ucone them. The whole thing is you want to keep the gas in the tube for the longest amount of time and having the gas go through a /\ shape pointy end first means some of it bleeds off into the space, then has to backtrack a longer distance before it can go forward again.

You'll have to wade through the two ginormous threads on F1's the $100 and $250 ones but you can get a lot of information there along with hearing how people would change the way they did things.

Me I tried various methods of making cones and in the end picked up one of the ebay dies. They may not be quite as deep as ones I can do with torx bits and or various cone shapes but they're always centered and they never split and tear which I had a fair problem with with other methods. And when I get my current open F1's done I'll sell it on the EE with some expectation of getting back a fair chunk of what I put into it.

View Quote


I was going to go with the Torx bits to form the cones.
Link Posted: 8/30/2015 4:50:04 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ewetstone:


I was going to go with the Torx bits to form the cones.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ewetstone:
Originally Posted By Tophatman:
You and the other poster have it. Without seeing real data on that challenge coin,well the idea is interesting but I'd like to see real world results.

You can use FP's as is in a:

======[ ]]]]]]]]]]

Where == is the barrel, your end cap, blast camber space, stacked freeze plugs, end cap.

You will/should need a blast chamber of between 1.25 and 1.75 inches, jury is out IMO on where the best length is because legally you cannot change the count of plugs, nor can you have extra baffles that changing the configuration would cause. I go with just enough blast chamber to clear my muzzle brakes, I use Griffin Armanent taper mounts on most of my F1's.

Your freeze plugs will work better if you put a cone in them. You can get dies for this on Ebay for around $90-$100 or you can pick up a set of sloped torx bits like they show in SDTA, or you use a lathe center bit. The plugs will work in a flat shape but you'll be happier if yo ucone them. The whole thing is you want to keep the gas in the tube for the longest amount of time and having the gas go through a /\ shape pointy end first means some of it bleeds off into the space, then has to backtrack a longer distance before it can go forward again.

You'll have to wade through the two ginormous threads on F1's the $100 and $250 ones but you can get a lot of information there along with hearing how people would change the way they did things.

Me I tried various methods of making cones and in the end picked up one of the ebay dies. They may not be quite as deep as ones I can do with torx bits and or various cone shapes but they're always centered and they never split and tear which I had a fair problem with with other methods. And when I get my current open F1's done I'll sell it on the EE with some expectation of getting back a fair chunk of what I put into it.



I was going to go with the Torx bits to form the cones.


Honestly, unless u plan to build a bunch of cans, spend $25 at eBay and buy allready formed, and center marked, freeze plugs. Hell that's the price you'll spend on the centering tool and unformed freeze plugs. I went through about 20+ freeze plugs to get 7 correctly formed, mostly concentric, cones for baffles. In hindsight, after buying all the tools to form them, I woulda been much better off buying already formed ones for a little more. Just something to think about.
Link Posted: 8/30/2015 5:08:02 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By SMPrider112:


Honestly, unless u plan to build a bunch of cans, spend $25 at eBay and buy allready formed, and center marked, freeze plugs. Hell that's the price you'll spend on the centering tool and unformed freeze plugs. I went through about 20+ freeze plugs to get 7 correctly formed, mostly concentric, cones for baffles. In hindsight, after buying all the tools to form them, I woulda been much better off buying already formed ones for a little more. Just something to think about.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By SMPrider112:
Originally Posted By ewetstone:
Originally Posted By Tophatman:
You and the other poster have it. Without seeing real data on that challenge coin,well the idea is interesting but I'd like to see real world results.

You can use FP's as is in a:

======[ ]]]]]]]]]]

Where == is the barrel, your end cap, blast camber space, stacked freeze plugs, end cap.

You will/should need a blast chamber of between 1.25 and 1.75 inches, jury is out IMO on where the best length is because legally you cannot change the count of plugs, nor can you have extra baffles that changing the configuration would cause. I go with just enough blast chamber to clear my muzzle brakes, I use Griffin Armanent taper mounts on most of my F1's.

Your freeze plugs will work better if you put a cone in them. You can get dies for this on Ebay for around $90-$100 or you can pick up a set of sloped torx bits like they show in SDTA, or you use a lathe center bit. The plugs will work in a flat shape but you'll be happier if yo ucone them. The whole thing is you want to keep the gas in the tube for the longest amount of time and having the gas go through a /\ shape pointy end first means some of it bleeds off into the space, then has to backtrack a longer distance before it can go forward again.

You'll have to wade through the two ginormous threads on F1's the $100 and $250 ones but you can get a lot of information there along with hearing how people would change the way they did things.

Me I tried various methods of making cones and in the end picked up one of the ebay dies. They may not be quite as deep as ones I can do with torx bits and or various cone shapes but they're always centered and they never split and tear which I had a fair problem with with other methods. And when I get my current open F1's done I'll sell it on the EE with some expectation of getting back a fair chunk of what I put into it.



I was going to go with the Torx bits to form the cones.


Honestly, unless u plan to build a bunch of cans, spend $25 at eBay and buy allready formed, and center marked, freeze plugs. Hell that's the price you'll spend on the centering tool and unformed freeze plugs. I went through about 20+ freeze plugs to get 7 correctly formed, mostly concentric, cones for baffles. In hindsight, after buying all the tools to form them, I woulda been much better off buying already formed ones for a little more. Just something to think about.


Like that idea a lot. Had no idea formed plugs were available on ebay. Have a link handy for the ones you use? I was going to use "D" cell size plugs.
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 7:25:07 AM EST
Just a quick search, but about $20 for 12, and they are the USA made sealed power ones.

"12 Pack 34.3MM Formed Freeze Plugs Solvent Traps,Maglites,SD Tactical"

Link

I haven't used pre-formed before, but sure would if I did it again, at least before I bought a 12 ton press, various degree cone shaped pressing tools, and of course several bags of freeze plugs.
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 8:33:38 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By SMPrider112:
Honestly, unless u plan to build a bunch of cans, spend $25 at eBay and buy allready formed, and center marked, freeze plugs. Hell that's the price you'll spend on the centering tool and unformed freeze plugs. I went through about 20+ freeze plugs to get 7 correctly formed, mostly concentric, cones for baffles. In hindsight, after buying all the tools to form them, I woulda been much better off buying already formed ones for a little more. Just something to think about.
View Quote


The pre-formed ebay ones are a good way to do it, but do not trust the center marks since the mark them before forming and the forming process is not always uniform. A few of mine were WAY off center. I used calipers and found one that had an exact center mark and drilled that first with a small bit, and used that as a template for drilling the rest.
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 11:35:20 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Hking:


The pre-formed ebay ones are a good way to do it, but do not trust the center marks since the mark them before forming and the forming process is not always uniform. A few of mine were WAY off center. I used calipers and found one that had an exact center mark and drilled that first with a small bit, and used that as a template for drilling the rest.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Hking:
Originally Posted By SMPrider112:
Honestly, unless u plan to build a bunch of cans, spend $25 at eBay and buy allready formed, and center marked, freeze plugs. Hell that's the price you'll spend on the centering tool and unformed freeze plugs. I went through about 20+ freeze plugs to get 7 correctly formed, mostly concentric, cones for baffles. In hindsight, after buying all the tools to form them, I woulda been much better off buying already formed ones for a little more. Just something to think about.


The pre-formed ebay ones are a good way to do it, but do not trust the center marks since the mark them before forming and the forming process is not always uniform. A few of mine were WAY off center. I used calipers and found one that had an exact center mark and drilled that first with a small bit, and used that as a template for drilling the rest.

If you already have the tube and thread protector, you can find your center, even with pre-formed plugs.
https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_20/444519_DIY_centering_for_freeze_plug_.html&page=1&anc=bottom#bottom
Link Posted: 8/31/2015 12:06:16 PM EST
Thanx everyone...I will definitely be giving it a try.
Top Top