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5/18/2008 5:59:16 PM EDT
Hi,
I just bought a used Dillon 550.  It came with a case lube pad, RCBS scale, primer flip tray, RCBS powder trickler and lyman caliper. It also comes with large and small primer pick up tubes, powder measure, powder die, tool head, large and small primer bars, large and small powder bars, spent primer catcher, the lyman reloading handbook,  and full cartridge bin. I ordered the ABC's of reloading.  I started reading it yesterday, and have made it all the way though rifle reloading.  I ordered the 9mm. conversion kit and .223 conversion kit, the delux quick change assembly, dillon carbide 9mm. die set, and dillon carbide .223 die set.  While i'm waiting for the 550 and book to show up, I want to order some bullets, powder and primers for the .223.  I decided to start  reloading because I ejnoy shooting, but it has been getting too expensive.  I'm not necessarily looking to make the most accurate load yet.  I want to put together a load that is as cheap as possible and still reliable.  Can anyone suggest a good .223 recipe to start from and the best place to pick up the supplies.  I will be getting a book with the press when it arrives, but I'd like to order my supplies while i'm waiting.  Cheap, cheap, cheap.  I'm relatively new to the .223 game, as I have only had my AR for about 6 months.   I'm going to be shooting a colt ar with a 20" barrel, "COLT 6601"
Thanks

5/18/2008 6:04:01 PM EDT
[#1]
It is best to get small amounts of a few different brands and work up a load that your particular rifle likes.  I personally use Varget powder, Hornady bullets and CCI primers.  My Bushmaster likes this combination just fine and I have had no problems out any of my loads.

However, Varget powder takes a little more awarness to load in a Dillion press, I pause for a second to make sure all the powder gets into the case.  It is not hard, just make sure you give enough time for the powder to drop.
5/18/2008 6:32:21 PM EDT
[#2]
I just worked up a load to take prarie dog shooting, and wanted to use Varget, but meter ability led me to choose a ball powder, I am using H335 and it meters very well.  It seemed to be a bit dirty at first, but after I started getting toward the higher end of the charge weights it seemed to burn alot cleaner.  I needed to load 1000-1500 rnds so I didn't want to mess around with the Varget in the 650.  But I did work up a load for the 22-250 using Varget and it seems to be very clean burning (no conversion for the 250 so I am hand throwing the charges.)

CAUTION: THIS LOAD WORKED IN MY RIFLE IT MAY BE TOO HOT FOR YOURS!  WORK UP FOR YOUR PARTICULAR RIFLE.
My Load for this adventure is:

L.C. once fired brass
CCI 400 small rifle primers
24.8 grns H335
55 grn Hornady V-max

average velocity is right around 3150-3200 fps out of a 20" AR
temperatrue was from 75-80 degrees
25.2 grns was starting to really flatten the primers and 25.5 grns was showing signs of primer cratering.

there are a ton of recipies tacked at the top of the page, check 'em out
good luck and welcome to the club!

5/18/2008 7:09:04 PM EDT
[#3]
I have had great success reloading the following:

- 23.0 grains of Accurate 2230
- Winchester Small Rifle Primers
- 69 grain Nosler J4 Competition Bullets

I am using Winchester brass.  Chronographed loads are averaging 2,850 ft/sec.

Hope this helps.
5/19/2008 11:33:48 PM EDT
[#4]
Its worth repeating that what works for my rifle may not be good for you...

However, since i load on the conservative side:

Sierra 69g MK HPBT  (IMO, best bullet there is for an AR 1:9, 1:8 twist!)

Varget 25.3 g

Rem 7 1/2


or

H 335 23.3g
as above


good luck
docgary
5/20/2008 7:08:07 AM EDT
[#5]
The OP needs work up loads that are safe in his or her gun!  COPY CAT RELOADING is foolish!  There are some powders that work better in the Dillon, ie Varget!  Varget is an extruded powder and this is not the best for consistent charges.  TAC or RL15 might be a better deal...
5/20/2008 8:05:43 AM EDT
[#6]
One thing you could save on is the carbide .223 die.  Carbide rifles dies are NOT the same as pistol dies, and still require lube to be used.  They are intended for commercial reloaders and have NO benefit for individual use.  A regular die would last you several lifetimes, so the $100+ cost of the carbide die, with its expected lifespan of a hundred lifetimes will do you no good.  

I'd change the order if it's not too late.  
5/20/2008 11:22:27 AM EDT
[#7]
I usually discourage first time reloaders from starting with progressive presses myself.  I think it is important to get experience with single stage reloading first, to fully understand the reloading process before trying to work a press where everything is happenining on each stroke.
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