I purchased from Springfield Armory a Barrelled receiver many years ago. I gathered all new GI parts and decided to assemble it today.

Problem 1: Looks like I need shims to get the front band tight, I do not want to weld or drill/screw this part. Is shims the best route? Any alternatives to weld/drill/shim?

Problem 2: I put the bolt hold open together and I did not make sure the bolt hold open worked freely on its roll pin. Now it sticks and will not spring back. Any help? How would I remove the pin when I can not get a punch into the other end?

Problem 3: New operating rod, after I managed to get it in it is tight near the rear and sticks. Can I use lapping compound to get slide moving freely?

Looks like my next BIG problem will be getting the Op Rod off!

Things that went ok were: Op Rod Guide, used center punch to get a tight fit on barrel, Rear sight, used a center punch and lapping compound to get it tight.

Any help is appreciated, Thank You.

#2, looks like you'll just have to rock it back and forth until the parts mate and loosen up.
#3, see above.

Manipulate them dry, once they free up, lube them.  Just my $.02

Quoted: I purchased from Springfield Armory a Barrelled receiver many years ago. I gathered all new GI parts and decided to assemble it today. Problem 1: Looks like I need shims to get the front band tight, I do not want to weld or drill/screw this part. Is shims the best route? Any alternatives to weld/drill/shim? Fulton has shims. I shim and/or match the lock so last 1/4 turn of lock requires "firm" thumb pressure. When fitting parts---If gas cylinder has any axial movement I lightly peen edges of splines on BBL. After gas system is nice and tight and lock is installed there is no need to remove cylinder for routine maint. If you desire to clean cyl/piston just remove gas plug. Use correct cyl wrench when tightening or removing gas plug so you don't loosen spline fit. Problem 2: I put the bolt hold open together and I did not make sure the bolt hold open worked freely on its roll pin. Now it sticks and will not spring back. Any help? How would I remove the pin when I can not get a punch into the other end? For such a little POS part these can cause trouble. The edge that catches the bolt is sometimes machined incorrectly and/or worn and won't hold bolt back or bolt drops if you stare at the gun too long. I assemble with a "slave" pin first to make sure everything fits/works correctly. Sometimes hole in bolt hold and rollpin have an interference fit. I size bolt hold to fit new roll pin. (always have lots of spares on hand) I use carbide and/or diamond file to size hole. I use a long flexible punch to remove rollpin. Problem 3: New operating rod, after I managed to get it in it is tight near the rear and sticks. Can I use lapping compound to get slide moving freely? I hand fit lug to groove and/or select fit Op Rod to receiver. Is it USGI or Springfield Inc? Hanging up forward or aft could also indicate Op Rod needs to be "trued" to receiver (ie bent to fit). "Correct fit" is little to no play in Op rod when installed w/bolt and the bolt/op rod will open/close with just gravity when installed. I never use lapping compound to fit but if your problem is just a slight lug/groove fit in the one area it should work ok. Looks like my next BIG problem will be getting the Op Rod off! Things that went ok were: Op Rod Guide, used center punch to get a tight fit on barrel, Rear sight, used a center punch and lapping compound to get it tight. Any help is appreciated, Thank You.

Do you have a copy of this...?

Quoted: I purchased from Springfield Armory a Barrelled receiver many years ago. I gathered all new GI parts and decided to assemble it today. Problem 1: Looks like I need shims to get the front band tight, I do not want to weld or drill/screw this part. Is shims the best route? Any alternatives to weld/drill/shim? Why do you need shims ? Band is normally loose on M1a's/14's. As long as the stock has + tension at ferrule you should be fine without wasting money on shims. Problem 2: I put the bolt hold open together and I did not make sure the bolt hold open worked freely on its roll pin. Now it sticks and will not spring back. Any help? How would I remove the pin when I can not get a punch into the other end? Very very carefully use a 1/16 pin punch and push roll pin out being EXTREMELY carefull not to wedge pin in hole and bust out the boss on the receiver. Than grab exposed roll pin with pliers and tap pliers pulling the roll pin out. Problem 3: New operating rod, after I managed to get it in it is tight near the rear and sticks. Can I use lapping compound to get slide moving freely? Don't use lapping compound. File op-rod tab enough to let op-rod travel freely. Looks like my next BIG problem will be getting the Op Rod off! Normal for SA Inc recvr's . Things that went ok were: Op Rod Guide, used center punch to get a tight fit on barrel, Rear sight, used a center punch and lapping compound to get it tight. Any help is appreciated, Thank You.

Do you have a copy of this...?

Looks like a book I could use! I have "The M14 Owners Guide" by Scott Duff and John Miller. I also purchased AGI's video on the M1 Garand/M1A WHAT A WASTE OF MONEY THAT WAS!!!

The op rod is GI and only is sticcky the rear half of it's travel. I am fairly sure a little lapping compound will fix it.

Thanks for the help. I did get the bolt hold roll pin out ok.

i just got a SA reciever and the funny thing about getting the op rod off is sometimes its very hard and sometimes it seems to fall out real easy, im thinking its just proper procedure and practice.

i just got a SA reciever and the funny thing about getting the op rod off is sometimes its very hard and sometimes it seems to fall out real easy, im thinking its just proper procedure and practice.

Exactly what I have found!

My rifle is nearly completed but I still nead help with the OP Rod:

I have my new SA receivered rifle nearly complete. It has a new Winchester Op Rod. When the Op Rod travels to its most rear position it comes into cotact with the side of the rear sight housing for its last 1/4 inch of travel. Is this normal or does tho Op Rod need filed so it does not touch the receiver. Thank You for the help!

it shouldnt contact the site housing, mine has a very close gap between the rod and the site housing, about a 1/16th inch,  the width of my housing just in front of the rear site  is 1.30 inch. ,  i dont know enough about these rifles as far as wear is concerned to advise you if maybe your op rod is worn , you dont want to file the receiver.   just to clearify, the part that rubs ,is it the upper part of the op rod(were the roller sits ) or the lower part were the handle is ??  i would work on the op rod to make it fit the receiver.