I am at my wits end with my CA94's failures to fire.  When I first got the rifle it refused to cycle (reset the hammer I believe) using WWB so I figured it needed hotter ammo.  So after getting my hands on some Fiochi 124 FMJ, American Eagle 124 FMJ, and S&B 115 FMJ I was hoping that would solve my problem.  It didn't and I also started experiencing FTE, which I had from the start as well.

So my next step was some upgrades.  I picked up some HK magazines, complete HK bolt head, and HK hammer spring.  

After getting those into the gun it solved my FTE, but it still won't reset the hammer.  On just about every round it refuses to reset the hammer.  I might get 2 shots every once in awhile.  It seems to chamber the next round, but the trigger is not reset.

I posted a couple of weeks ago about my original problems and I was hoping the upgrades would solve my problems.  They didn't so where do I go from here.  Do I return the rifle, which I would rather not do.  Or is there something else that might be wrong.

I'm a newb to HKs so the problem could very well be me.  I'd appreciate any advice,

Thanks

Sounds like a fire control group problem. You might try a different clipped and pinned lower

Your Coharie has a lifetime warranty. Before spending anymore money, why not send it in and give them a chance to fix it? Word has it that the turn around time is pretty good these days.

Quoted: Your Coharie has a lifetime warranty. Before spending anymore money, why not send it in and give them a chance to fix it? Word has it that the turn around time is pretty good these days.

Just be sure to return it to stock first.  Don't send it away with that expensive bolt head!

Wanna trade it for my Vector V51 with the cocking handle that doesn't work?

The VERY next thing I would do, before I return the gun is order an Gen. 3 ejector lever from Adam Webber.  I have changed this lever in two out of three of my clones and you can tell a hell of a difference in how easily the charging handle is to pull back on the two that have the HK levers.  On the third, it's noticeably harder to charge the weapon.  It's like the Coharie lever tends to "bind" the carrier.  Trust me, it makes a hell of a difference, at least in my case it did.  My two clones with the HK Gen. 3 levers are very smooth!!  Give it a try.

ARKAR

I took the ejector out of the trigger group and charged the rifle and it didn't feel much different than it did with it in there.  If it was binding up I would think I would tell a difference with it out, wouldn't you?

I've been getting my parts from Adam.  I just hate thinking about spending another $50 on the lever and find out it didn't work.  Then spend the money on a new trigger group that includes the ejector that I just bought.

Adam has suggested a new trigger group.  I just wish I knew if this would solve the problem before I dropped that kind of money.  I see he has quite a few trigger groups listed.  I don't plan on ever running full auto with this rifle.  Which one would I select to best replace the one in my CA94std.

And one newb question for you.  What exactly does "clipped and pinned" mean.

Quoted: What exactly does "clipped and pinned" mean.

Look here: www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=9&t=197791

Quoted: Quoted: What exactly does "clipped and pinned" mean. Look here: www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=9&t=197791

Thanks,

Quoted: I took the ejector out of the trigger group and charged the rifle and it didn't feel much different than it did with it in there.  If it was binding up I would think I would tell a difference with it out, wouldn't you? I've been getting my parts from Adam.  I just hate thinking about spending another $50 on the lever and find out it didn't work.  Then spend the money on a new trigger group that includes the ejector that I just bought. Adam has suggested a new trigger group.  I just wish I knew if this would solve the problem before I dropped that kind of money.  I see he has quite a few trigger groups listed.  I don't plan on ever running full auto with this rifle.  Which one would I select to best replace the one in my CA94std. And one newb question for you.  What exactly does "clipped and pinned" mean.

Well I sure wish that you lived in the Houston area cause I'd help you debug that bad boy in a heartbeat. Do you know anybody in your area with one of these? Swapping out parts would be the quickest way to determine what would fix it of course.

Sounds like the bolt carrier isn't making it far enough backwards to reset the hammer.

What locking piece is in it and what is your gap?

Unfortunately I live in the land of NO HKs.  Swapping parts is exactly what I wish I could do and need to do probably.  I have the only HK I know of in my area, that I know of.

I just ordered an ejector from Adam and if that doesn't work I will probably send it to Coharie and have them look at it.

The bolt not making it back far enough is what I believe is happening as well.  I believe it is a type "A" locking piece.  I don't believe it has any markings on it.  I will check for sure when I get home tonight as well as the gap.

Thanks again guys,

BIG-n
There are lots of HK owners in NE (depending on where).

What retrodog says. Find someone with a working gun (MP5, HK94, doesn't matter), and swap parts (Complete lower, and B/C).

Quoted: Unfortunately I live in the land of NO HKs.  Swapping parts is exactly what I wish I could do and need to do probably.  I have the only HK I know of in my area, that I know of. I just ordered an ejector from Adam and if that doesn't work I will probably send it to Coharie and have them look at it. The bolt not making it back far enough is what I believe is happening as well.  I believe it is a type "A" locking piece.  I don't believe it has any markings on it.  I will check for sure when I get home tonight as well as the gap. Thanks again guys,

If I put my HK FA bolt carrier in my SW5, I have the same problem. The thing doesn't set the hammer part of the time. So that gives me the impression that the FA bolt carrier is not compatible with the stock trigger pack in the SW5, which is also an HK factory part. But I got my FA sear in and installed it in a C&P lower. That one then works fine with the HK FA carrier. Which is really all I need as the SA trigger pack doesn't need to work with the FA carrier.

I haven't tried the stock SA trigger pack in the plastic C&P lower yet, just to see if it will make a difference. But I don't need to use that combination anyway so it doesn't really matter and I might never try it. I just thought it was interesting that they don't work together very well.

Quoted: BIG-n There are lots of HK owners in NE (depending on where).

Anyone in the Nebraska City/Auburn area??

Quoted: Sounds like the bolt carrier isn't making it far enough backwards to reset the hammer. What locking piece is in it and what is your gap?

I measured the gap and it was at .035" using a HK bolt and Coharie carrier and type A locking piece.

I also measured the gap with the stock Coharie setup and it was .031"

That's quite a bit out of range.  Why would the gap be that large when it is brand new?  Would this cause FTFs?

Just to make sure my procedure was correct I locked the bolt back then let it snap forward then pulled the trigger.

That's a bit out of spec for a genuine HK.  As for Cohaire, I dunno.  

My hunch is that you need a different LP.  (spoken from experience with non-hk roller locked weapons).

That's way out of range.  Even undersize rollers wouldn't get it down far enough.  It seems they just "eyeball" it when they press the barrels on the Coharies.  My buddy got one and the gap was .007" out of the box.  In the end we had to press the barrel and reinstall to set the headspace and fix it.  Not an easy task.  If you don't have someone that can work on HK's (and clones) near you then you are looking at sending it back to Coharie for repair or off to one of the smiths but one of the big name HK smiths will charge hundreds to do the work.

Quoted: That's way out of range.  Even undersize rollers wouldn't get it down far enough.  It seems they just "eyeball" it when they press the barrels on the Coharies.  My buddy got one and the gap was .007" out of the box.  In the end we had to press the barrel and reinstall to set the headspace and fix it.  Not an easy task.  If you don't have someone that can work on HK's (and clones) near you then you are looking at sending it back to Coharie for repair or off to one of the smiths but one of the big name HK smiths will charge hundreds to do the work.

Well since it has a lifetime warranty it's looking more likely that I will send it back to Coharie, especially since it never worked out of the box.  You would think they would test fire it a couple times to make sure everything was working properly.

I have an ejector coming my way and if that doesn't solve it then more than likely I will have to send it back.

Sounds like a good idea, but you better leave the thing about the rifle refusing to cycle with WWB out.

What WWB

I decided to send it back to Coharie and have them look at it.  I was getting to the point where I didn't know what to do and I didn't want to keep throwing parts at it.

I called them up and talked to them about my problems.  They were very helpful and eager to look at it to see what the problem might be.  I believe I should have sent it in from the start.  I probably would have saved a little money by doing so.  After I get it back I'll report back on what the problem was.  Hopefully it is an easy fix.

Thanks for all your help and suggestions.

Big-n, sorry I haven't replied to the pm you sent me!  I read it before work one morning and didn't have time to reply.  I meant to later that night and forgot.  You asked if I had been having problems with my gun before I replaced the ejector.  Truth is, Jayson at I.G.F. built my gun and he recommended that I replace the ejector.  He proof-fired my gun and told me that ejection was weak and I should replace the lever.  I shot the gun myself and it did have very weak ejection.  I replaced the lever and it started flinging the brass with ease.  I think the CA levers are a little softer than the HK also.  But if your boltgap is as far out of spec. as you have noted, then that's probably your problem.  Sending it back to Todd is probably the right thing to do, he'll make it right.  Hope this helps!!

ARKAR