I have a FN Police pump shotgun.  
Problem is, the sights suck.  Not only are they just bad in general, but they are so low to the barrel, that it causes me problems when I shoot it...namely it hurts. I end up firing it from an awkward stance, and my shoulder takes a beating.

I know it is basically a Winchester 1300, and there are plenty of aftermarket parts out there.

My question is, what kind of sight should I get for it?  I would like to get a set of ghost ring sights for it, but all I can find are the crappy ATI clamp on ones.
The receiver  is tapped for a scope mount on top, but I can't find any rails to fit this.  I have a TacPoint red dot scope that I might use, if I can find a rail for it.

Any suggestions?  Links?

Thanks in advance!

Put an Aimpoint or EOTech or any dot sight that sits higher than the original crappy sights.  If you can't find a way to attach a rail give it to a smith to do.  I put a Reflex II on my Remmy 870 and it is spot on at 75 yards with slugs even with the short barrel.

MadDog

That's what I'm looking for.  I'd love to stick an Eotech on it, but if I bought an Eotech, it would go on my AR15 first.  Since I already have a Tacpoint, that is what I planned on using...if I can find a rail for it.
No return email from FN yet, but I'm hopeful.

you mean like this with an Eotech!

That's a pretty good setup, and yes that's what I'm looking for.

well if the reveiver is tapped, find out what screws fit
and then get some black rails and drill it and screw the rail to the top of the receiver
it would be totally custom and just make sure the screws dont back out with some threadlock
better yet get an 870police

my setup is
Remington 870 Police magnum
18" bead sight barrel
Argonaut Armament Pistol grip adapter
Bushmaster 6 position collapsible
A2 pistol grip
Surefire 618FA forend
Knights 870RAS
YHM front and rear buis
Scattergun 3 point sling

I did drill and tap 2 screws to secure the RAS so it wont move
i havent had a chance to pattern it yet as I just finished building it
i have shot it and it hurts so I need to mount a recoilpad which i found one
i just have to figure out how to mount it now

Im about to build another similar to this one

It has four tap screws, all top center of the receiver.  I took it to a local gunsmith, but he couldn't find any existing products that would work, though his internet is down.  He said it would be $100 or so to custom build one, so I would be better off trying to find a readily available rail.

Even with the low recoil shells, I wouldn't shoot it without a recoil pad  I'm not exactly a big guy either, no padding on these shoulders.

I plan on adding a CAR style stock, or maybe one of the Knox recoil reducers; but I haven't heard much good about the Knox.

Edit, found a rail at cheaperthandirt.com.
www.cheaperthandirt.com/63181-8804-1945.html
Not too bad at under $5.

i have heard nothing but raves reviews on the knoxx spec ops stock
i might have to get one for the next shotgun I am building

seahawkdodge,

If you plan on putting a CAR stock on your shotgun you must install a "limbsaver" but pad.  That is what I use on the Crane/SOPMOD stock I have on my 870.  I can shoot slugs all day and not feel a thing.  I takes a little engineering to make them work.  

MadDog

how did you mount the limbsaver to the buttstock
i need to do that on mine
i have the limbsaver but no clue as to how to mount it
i was thinking JB weld or that gorilla glue but i dont want to ruin the buttstock
if it doesnt work out

Seriously, how did you do it?  If I can do that, I would forget the Knox, and just go with an ATI stock...just throw a limbsaver on it instead.

I was able to use the limbsaver because the Crane/SOPMOD stock has a small hole in the end when you take the included rubber pad off and when the stock is collapsed there is a 1/4" gap between the end of the buffer tube and the end of the stock.  I found a "limbsaver" pad that had roughly the same profile as the end of the Crane stock.  Instead of using wood screws to mount the pad I took a short machine screw with phillips head and inserted it in the top hole of the pad.  I put the pad on the end of the stock and dropped a 1" fender washer down the stock.  the washer was the same diameter as the inside of the stock tube.  I was able to tighten the screw with a nut and loctite and when the stock was collapsed the short screw was not in the way.  The top screw was all that was needed to keep the limbsaver pad secure but I wanted to make sure it would not rotate under use.  I pre-drilled a small pilot hole in the stock using a drill bit small enough that it would drill a hole in the gusset portion of the stock.  I then took a very short phillips head wood screw and screwed down the bottom portion of the pad.

Don't know if this makes sense and I don't know if you can even use this method of attachment with anything other than a Crane Stock.  You could always epoxy the pad on the end of your CAR Stock.

MadDog

Quoted: I was able to use the limbsaver because the Crane/SOPMOD stock has a small hole in the end when you take the included rubber pad off and when the stock is collapsed there is a 1/4" gap between the end of the buffer tube and the end of the stock.

This is a combination of our favorite AR-15 stock and a truly amazing recoil pad.

Could you tell us which Limbsaver part number you used?

hmmm
i have a bushmaster 6 position collapsible
the lower sling mount bolt hole almost lines up with the bottom hole of the limbsaver i have
however the top hole lines up with the hole for the buffer tube
so im not sure if this can work unless i use jb weld or some industrial glue
i was thinking maybe the gorilla glue
any suggestions
these limbsavers have a sealed air cell in the middle correct?
I dont want to ruin it by drilling into the middle of it
anyone else out there have any ideas

Quoted: i have a bushmaster 6 position collapsible the lower sling mount bolt hole almost lines up with the bottom hole of the limbsaver i have so im not sure if this can work unless i use jb weld or some industrial glue i was thinking maybe the gorilla glue

Well, that's what we use.  We have an M4 SOPMOD stock here with a Limbsaver epoxied on to the back (the knurling on the back of the stock was ground down).  It is an absolute joy to shoot, like shooting a .22: slugs, buck, whatever.

We have discussed with Limbsaver the possibility of their making a pad for the M4 SOPMOD stock, but there's no progress yet.  But if there's a kitchen table method for securing one to an LMT Crane stock, it would be something we'd want to tell our customers about.  The LMT Crane stock has a very comfortable cheek weld, and combining it with a Limbsaver would be a killer set-up.

Mesa,

I am not sure what model Limbsaver I used.  I looked at all the ones my local shop had until I found one that had the exact same length from top to bottom.  The bottom of the Crane Stock is a little wider because the stock profile is oval and the Limbsaver profile is tear drop. I wish as you do that Limbsaver made an oval profiled pad.  Securing the top is easy because you use a machine screw instead of a wood screw and use a fender washer on the inside of the stock.  If your screw is just long enough to accept the washer and nut, you can close the stock all the way.  You do have to take the intigrated rubber pad off the Crane Stock first.  Putting a screw in the bottom hole of the Limbsaver is a little more tricky because you have to drill a pilot hole in the stock first and the only plastic you have in that area is a thin gusset.  You use a wood screw in the bottom hole and it has to be very short.  The bottom screw is only necessary to keep the pad from rotating.  The upper bolt really holds the pad on.

MadDog

Check out their "precision fit" line, and what firearms they make them for.

www.limbsaver.com/limbsaver/firearms/precfit.aspx

They make one for the Winchester 1400.  Sweet, even though I dislike the factory stock....

This "Grind to Fit" one might be the right shape for a CAR stock.

www.limbsaver.com/limbsaver/firearms/grind2fit.aspx

well i got something called plastic weld epoxy
and hopefully it stays on
it has a 3500psi shear strength apparently
its just glued on and took 15 minutes to set
hopefully i can test it soon
the model number i used was 10011 if im not mistaken
its almost a perfect fit