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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Engraving examples (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 5/1/2014 12:26:24 PM EDT
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There's been a lot of discussion lately (mainly about Ident) regarding where to get your items engraved. I've had six lowers engraved in the last 6-8 months, and intentionally had a different place do each one. If I have more, I'll try Gray Laser and then Orion.
If anybody else wants to add their examples and details, go for it. NOTE: no need to mention my mag release buttons...that issue has been corrected, although they do function just fine when installed that way 
1. Work done by Ident. $45 + shipping both ways. Took about a month (seems to be running 6-8 weeks recently). Great work. Reblackened. Small print. 
2. Work done by local Things Remembered. $28 while I waited. It's not level, and it's chipped to the point Aluminum Black didn't reblacken all surfaces. 
3. Work done by local trophy shop. $20 or $25, can't remember. Same issue as TR with chipping. They made 9 passes and said it was the deepest they'd ever engraved. It meets the .003" minimum, but it's real shallow. Also not perfectly level. 
4. Work done by member CS223 (nflgun.com). $35 + shipping. 1 week turnaround door to door. He usually engraves in Sunday, so if you get it to him by Fri, it ships out Mon morning. Level, small, crisp edges and reblackened. 
5. Work done by manufacturer. I asked if I could send it to them so they could engrave it, and they offered to do it at the same time they added their rollmark (thus before the initial anodizing). It was my first one, so I didn't know what to expect. It's a much larger font than I would've chosen, but it's absolutely the cleanest overall job. Cost and timeframe aren't really important as this was a one time deal. 
They also added PISTOL to a second lower for me, which I know is not required...just wanted it done. 
6. And finally, the pièce de résistance. My M&P 15-22 (polymer lower). Did it in about a minute on the front of the magwell with a Dremel. $0. Already black. 
The most important thing...all the rifles still shoot, regardless of the quality of the engraving. Based on my experience, if I had to use of the places I've already used, I'd choose CS223 100% of the time due to speed, customer service, quality and cost. As mentioned, I'd like to try Gray and/or Orion if I get more done. Hope this helps. -Greg |
This was done by a local trophy shop. $20 and about an hour and a half of my time. He won't do it without you there.
I did use some Alum-Black on it, and it darkened a lot, but looks a lot like BigWaylon's Trophy shop example. Meets specs and shoots and functions fine! |
| In order for the aluminum blackeners to work well the best thing to do is to clean the bare aluminum with acetone then apply the re blackener. Also doing this as soon after being engraved as possible is best as it reduces the amount of oxide already on the surface of the bare aluminum. |
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In order for the aluminum blackeners to work well the best thing to do is to clean the bare aluminum with acetone then apply the re blackener. Also doing this as soon after being engraved as possible is best as it reduces the amount of oxide already on the surface of the bare aluminum. Yep. I did mine within 20 min of the engraving. Even hit it with non-chlorinated carb or brake cleaner (can't remember which can I used). I then sent it to CS223 for him to try and redo it when he did the one he was engraving. That's where I found out about the chipping, or whatever term he used. It looks like bare aluminum, but won't accept the Aluminum Black. |
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I need to pick up some alum-black and try it. I haven't found a color fill I like. Tried model paint and lacquer sticks. If the engraving is done right, and you prep it right, you can't tell a difference between the anodizing and the reblackened area, at least with the two I have. |
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Yep. I did mine within 20 min of the engraving. Even hit it with non-chlorinated carb or brake cleaner (can't remember which can I used). I then sent it to CS223 for him to try and redo it when he did the one he was engraving. That's where I found out about the chipping, or whatever term he used. It looks like bare aluminum, but won't accept the Aluminum Black. Quoted:
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In order for the aluminum blackeners to work well the best thing to do is to clean the bare aluminum with acetone then apply the re blackener. Also doing this as soon after being engraved as possible is best as it reduces the amount of oxide already on the surface of the bare aluminum. Yep. I did mine within 20 min of the engraving. Even hit it with non-chlorinated carb or brake cleaner (can't remember which can I used). I then sent it to CS223 for him to try and redo it when he did the one he was engraving. That's where I found out about the chipping, or whatever term he used. It looks like bare aluminum, but won't accept the Aluminum Black. This is an issue when engraving with a pantograph rotary engraver. I do my own engraving and early on had this happen early on (maybe the second lower I ever did for myself). The easiest fix when this happens is to just fill the letters in white as they look better white (you then cant see the white areas that alumablack wont take as its all white. There are a couple things I have found that will minimize or eliminate this issue where there is chipping and alumablack wont take. 1. Always use a new carbide bit in the engraver. It sucks as the bits are $15 but having them extra sharp is really key to getting a clean cut. 2. Make sure you constantly remove the engraving dust. I use my compressor and air to constantly blow away the annodizing dust as it can interfere with a good cut and can even etch/scratch the lower as the collet which controls the depth of the bit rubs over it. 3. Not all annodizing is the same. Some is harder or thinner and has more of a propencity to not cut cleanly. CNCed lowers are more difficult to engrave with their smooth finish vs. forged which has a forging grain and which better "holds onto" its annodizing, where the flat surface of the CNC run lowers has a higher propencity to chip. 4. Use a really fine bit to minimize enclosed areas like P, R, or A where the interior section of the letter has a higher chance of chipping the more material you remove. 5. Ultimately, the best test is to always engrave a few test letter on the flat surface where the pistol grip goes. That way if its going to not come out clean you will know before cutting on an uncovered area. I always offer folks I engrave for to test their initials under the pistol grip to make sure they like how it turns out. Other points on alumablack is that it needs to be done immediately after engraving. I dont use anything on the lower between when the engraving is done and the alumablack goes on. Not having the letters straight is just poor setup. Your local trophy shop or things remembered is engraving brass or some other material designed specifically to produce good engraving. Giving them an annodized aluminum lower presents all sorts of pitfalls they are not normally used to dealing with. 
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I drove over to ident today and dropped off a lower. I showed him this picture and told him I wanted mine to look like this......and he replied, "yeah! I did that one." Funny. I personally wanted mine in the trigger well. Not out in the open. <a href="http://s256.photobucket.com/user/AFMarksman/media/Guns/AR15/ReceiverSBRMarkings.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh196/AFMarksman/Guns/AR15/ReceiverSBRMarkings.jpg</a> All 4 of mine were done like this by Ident. Looks great, and worth the wait I guess. There is enough damn engraving on these things as is, I didn't want more showing. |
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Ident. Two months. <a href="http://s1120.photobucket.com/user/eastlandb1/media/sbrblock.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l500/eastlandb1/sbrblock.jpg</a> That's pretty awesome. If you don't mind my asking, how much did that cost? |
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If I remember right, $75 plus shipping. They have the pattern and just added my wording. Not too bad. I have a bad feeling that the ridiculously long title of my trust and "Charleston, WV" probably wouldn't fit in there... I guess it wouldn't hurt to ask them though
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On BigWaylon's experience, I got in touch with CS223. I wanted engraving inside the trigger guard, but he
doesn't offer it; based on BW's pictures and how highly he spoke of CS223's work, I went with him anyway. I got the receiver and check in the mail last Wednesday, he received it Friday, I had the shipping notice in my email Sunday night, and the PO tried to deliver it yesterday (Wednesday) but I couldn't sign for it and so had to go fetch it today. So it was a one-week total time out of my hands, and I couldn't be happier with the work, price, or speed. For one week and just over $50 including shipping both ways, I'm happier'n Rosie O'Donnell at a free all-you-can-eat buffet 
CS223 engraved on the left side of the receiver under the trigger pins and above the trigger guard, and the print was tiny. It's really easy to overlook, which is the goal. 
Thanks again, CS223! |
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On BigWaylon's experience, I got in touch with CS223. I wanted engraving inside the trigger guard, but he doesn't offer it; based on BW's pictures and how highly he spoke of CS223's work, I went with him anyway. I got the receiver and check in the mail last Wednesday, he received it Friday, I had the shipping notice in my email Sunday night, and the PO tried to deliver it yesterday (Wednesday) but I couldn't sign for it and so had to go fetch it today. So it was a one-week total time out of my hands, and I couldn't be happier with the work, price, or speed. For one week and just over $50 including shipping both ways, I'm happier'n Rosie O'Donnell at a free all-you-can-eat buffet
CS223 engraved on the left side of the receiver under the trigger pins and above the trigger guard, and the print was tiny. It's really easy to overlook, which is the goal. Looks great. Glad I didn't steer you wrong. The two I've seen in person were everything I'd hoped for. Hard to beat the combination of speed/price/quality. For basic NFA info, I'm not sure why you'd send it off to anybody other than CS223 or Gray Laser, or trust a local trophy shop/Things Remembered. |
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I went looking on the sites but which is the engraver in Texas that you can walk up on Friday I believe and they will do it right there while you wait but it is a cash only deal? Is it Gray? Ident in Rockwall will. 45 bucks to drop it off and wait in line or I think after 5 pm on Thursdays, they knock them out while you wait for 60 bucks - leave the same day. I just got mine back. Excellent job. Look at the photo above I posted with the engraving inside the trigger guard. Mine looks exactly like that. I dropped off another lower, a gen II Noveske, and wanted the engraving inside the magwell lip. Great place since the trigger guard is not removable on a noveske and pretty well out of plain site but not inconspicuous |
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Ident in Rockwall will. 45 bucks to drop it off and wait in line or I think after 5 pm on Thursdays, they knock them out while you wait for 60 bucks - leave the same day. I just got mine back. Excellent job. Look at the photo above I posted with the engraving inside the trigger guard. Mine looks exactly like that. I dropped off another lower, a gen II Noveske, and wanted the engraving inside the magwell lip. Great place since the trigger guard is not removable on a noveske and pretty well out of plain site but not inconspicuous Quoted:
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I went looking on the sites but which is the engraver in Texas that you can walk up on Friday I believe and they will do it right there while you wait but it is a cash only deal? Is it Gray? Ident in Rockwall will. 45 bucks to drop it off and wait in line or I think after 5 pm on Thursdays, they knock them out while you wait for 60 bucks - leave the same day. I just got mine back. Excellent job. Look at the photo above I posted with the engraving inside the trigger guard. Mine looks exactly like that. I dropped off another lower, a gen II Noveske, and wanted the engraving inside the magwell lip. Great place since the trigger guard is not removable on a noveske and pretty well out of plain site but not inconspicuous Thanks |
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I had mine done at CC (http://www.customizedcreationz.com/)
Some I just finished assembling into pistols (while I wait for the stamps). Others I have sent the stamps, but have not assembled the lower into a pistol yet. I say this because I can't post pics of the ones that have been filled (they are black and don't come out right with the potato). He will engraved the words THREE TIMES DEEPER than than regulation requires, while utilizing the same principle for font size ***. The reason for this, when you "blacken" the engraving it still shows clearly and it is easy to read-the oxidation process will cover/fill some of the depth in the engraving . Below is a picture BEFORE the Aluminum black was placed on the lower (Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black Metal Finish in the 3oz bottle -make sure to read the directions as to not activate the entire content of the bottle-) ***27 CFR 479.102 basically states that the engraving must be to a minimum depth of .003 inch and in a print size no smaller than 1/16 inch for the serial number. All other required information (makers name, city, state) is subject to the same depth requirements, BUT has no minimum font size requirements. 
REVISED |
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He will engraved the words THREE TIMES DEEPER than needed as well as larger font than regulation requires. Looks good. For the record, there is no font size requirement for any of that engraving. It all has to be a minimum of .003" deep, but the serial number is the only part with the 1/16" minimum height. It's going to be fairly hard to read any smaller than that, but there's no regulation around the font size. |
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Quoted: Did one with a dremel, i'm not too ashamed of. Everything is a little different size and depth, but it wasn't too hard. http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w424/cfaulkner0006/IMAG07271.jpg |
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I just got a lower back from CS223, as BigWaylon recommended, and he did an excellent job. Shipped Wednesday and arrived back the next Wednesday. I like his work better than Ident because of the slightly thicker letters. I tried to email them from the link the OP provided and no response. |
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I tried to email them from the link the OP provided and no response. Quoted:
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I just got a lower back from CS223, as BigWaylon recommended, and he did an excellent job. Shipped Wednesday and arrived back the next Wednesday. I like his work better than Ident because of the slightly thicker letters. I tried to email them from the link the OP provided and no response. PM CS223 here - I don't think my email to him even went through when I tried to email that address, but he responded quickly to all my PMs here. Plus, like everyone else says, he did excellent work 
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PM CS223 here - I don't think my email to him even went through when I tried to email that address, but he responded quickly to all my PMs here. Plus, like everyone else says, he did excellent work Quoted:
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I just got a lower back from CS223, as BigWaylon recommended, and he did an excellent job. Shipped Wednesday and arrived back the next Wednesday. I like his work better than Ident because of the slightly thicker letters. I tried to email them from the link the OP provided and no response. PM CS223 here - I don't think my email to him even went through when I tried to email that address, but he responded quickly to all my PMs here. Plus, like everyone else says, he did excellent work The email address I've used to contact him as recently as 2-3 weeks ago is not the one that shows in his website. Maybe he emailed me after I sent him a PM? Rather than post that address publicly, I'll recommend the PM method as well. Then you can shift to email if you want. |
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The email address I've used to contact him as recently as 2-3 weeks ago is not the one that shows in his website. Maybe he emailed me after I sent him a PM? Rather than post that address publicly, I'll recommend the PM method as well. Then you can shift to email if you want. Quoted:
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I just got a lower back from CS223, as BigWaylon recommended, and he did an excellent job. Shipped Wednesday and arrived back the next Wednesday. I like his work better than Ident because of the slightly thicker letters. I tried to email them from the link the OP provided and no response. PM CS223 here - I don't think my email to him even went through when I tried to email that address, but he responded quickly to all my PMs here. Plus, like everyone else says, he did excellent work The email address I've used to contact him as recently as 2-3 weeks ago is not the one that shows in his website. Maybe he emailed me after I sent him a PM? Rather than post that address publicly, I'll recommend the PM method as well. Then you can shift to email if you want. Thanks I PMd him. |
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IDENT did a fantastic job on all 4 of mine. They even did 2 lines above my trigger opening to accommodate my trust name, and then of course the city and state below. Fit and centered perfectly.
The first 2 I sent in October were 15 day turn around from door to door. The 2nd set I sent took over 3 months  or something.
I am going to try Gray next time. IDENT does do good work, though. |
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Here's the work from a local guy I use. He charges $50 for the engraving and $10 to apply a bake-on finish.
The engraving looks great, I get to sit down with him and talk about where exactly the text is placed and I don't have to worry about putting something in the mail where it might get lost. 
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Did one with a dremel, i'm not too ashamed of. Everything is a little different size and depth, but it wasn't too hard. http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w424/cfaulkner0006/IMAG07271.jpg That looks pretty nice. Do you remember what size engraving cutter you used? |
Another example for the file... These were both done by member CS223. Great, fast service and no hassles. I'm happy with it and will definitely give him my business again.
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That looks pretty nice. Do you remember what size engraving cutter you used? Quoted:
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Did one with a dremel, i'm not too ashamed of. Everything is a little different size and depth, but it wasn't too hard. http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w424/cfaulkner0006/IMAG07271.jpg That looks pretty nice. Do you remember what size engraving cutter you used? That was the 105 bit that came with my dremel engraving kit. Not sure what size it was though. |
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That was the 105 bit that came with my dremel engraving kit. Not sure what size it was though. Quoted:
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Did one with a dremel, i'm not too ashamed of. Everything is a little different size and depth, but it wasn't too hard. http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w424/cfaulkner0006/IMAG07271.jpg That looks pretty nice. Do you remember what size engraving cutter you used? That was the 105 bit that came with my dremel engraving kit. Not sure what size it was though. Thats impressive! |
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Kudos and recomendations to Ident Marking. As pictured before here, excellent work. Just got another SBR engraved inside the trigger well, there and back in less than two weeks.
In addition to the FCG, I did remove the trigger guard myself. Highly recomnend Ident Marking. |
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Ident. Two months. <a href="http://s1120.photobucket.com/user/eastlandb1/media/sbrblock.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l500/eastlandb1/sbrblock.jpg</a> That's pretty awesome. I never thought about working it into a logo. |
Just got mine done at Gray's in San Antonio. Made an appointment, drove there, and waited while he did it in front of me (even let me borrow a pair of protective glasses so I could see the laser do its work). Great guy and great work! Took about 15 minutes and cost $60.
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Here are a few by Jeff at US Tactical in Oakton VA... 
Whoa! Is that engraving inside a FIXED triggerguard I see, or is it an optical illusion and/or I'm hallucinating? That's what I've been trying to find everywhere. I have a Balios-Lite receiver I need engraved, and I want it inside the fixed guard. This receiver is like jewelry to me, and I don't marks out in the open. |
[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Engraving examples (Page 1 of 2)
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