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Posted: 1/24/2016 3:04:43 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Molon][Edited]
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Reloading For The AR-15: Swaging Primer Pocket Crimps Attached File In order to reload brass cases that have crimped primer pockets, the crimp must first be removed before a new primer can be seated. There are two basic methods used to achieve this; reaming or swaging. With reaming, you’re removing material from the case head. With swaging, you’re simply pressing material back into its original position. Of the two methods, my personal preference is for swaging with the Dillon Super Swage 600. The Dillon Super Swage returns the primer pocket more closely to its original condition than any of the other stand-alone tools that I’ve seen used to remove the primer pocket crimp. The pic below, with a cut-out 223 Remington case in the Super Swage, shows the swaging rod and the case positioning rod to give you an idea of just how the Super Swage works. Attached File The next pic shows the case head of a factory-loaded round that has a crimped primer. Attached File Now, a deprimed case . . . Attached File The case from the above pic that has had the primer pocket swaged with the Super Swage . . . Attached File And a pic with the same case reprimed . . . Attached File This last pic shows the factory-loaded round next to the reprimed case for easy comparison. Attached File Attached File .... |
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Originally Posted By akethan:
I just got one. Do I need to resize the case again after swaging? I haven't checked before and after specs yet. No, you can proceed to load them. I'd initially bought one primarily for 223/556, but it does equally well on 7.62 NATO and even military pistol brass. Changing out the punch for small/large primer pockets is super quick and simple. Like I said before, excellent tool for any handloader. And, the Dillon "No B.S." warranty is outstanding (even though I've never needed it). |
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I'm going to set the archive toggle to keep this out of the archives. That way in the future I can link to this thread for the excellent pics and info. Thanks for posting Molon. |
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Originally Posted By akethan:
I just got one. Do I need to resize the case again after swaging? I haven't checked before and after specs yet. When done correctly, it's a one-time process. ... |
All that is necessary for Trolls to flourish, is for good men to do nothing.
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Wow, detailed post! Now let me deflate you a tiny bit, I wished you had a sectioned case showing a deprimed case that wasn't swaged next to a deprimed case that had been swaged. In any case* thanks for the time and effort required to post this! case* pun intended! |
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Originally Posted By RareBear:
Should one deburr flasholes before swaging primer crimp with this machine? If you are going to cut them anyway, yes. If you are not, then at least inspect to make sure the ram isn't coming down on some nasty bur. Also, keep in mind that some case web designs are different, if you are using that thickness as a datum, be sure you know it matches your assumptions and adjustments. |
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Originally Posted By RareBear:
Should one deburr flasholes before swaging primer crimp with this machine? It helps for uniformity, but it is not absolutely necessary. ... |
All that is necessary for Trolls to flourish, is for good men to do nothing.
In God We Trust. Everyone else must post data.
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Excellent write up, Molon.
I found that using the RCBS tool was much easier with a bit of case lube on the swage spud. Since the Super Swage has a very strong camming action both INTO the primer pocket and OUT OF the pocket, that's not as much of an issue, but the next time I go at it (I have a couple gallons of 9mm GI brass I'm going to do sometimes soon), I plan to put a dab of lube on the spud every so often and see how it goes. If it has any effect, I'll do the same when I decrimp the 1300+ 7.62 NATO cases I have waiting for me to process. And to reiterate, for anyone who has missed it, the Dillon Super Swage MUST be adjusted for the thickness of your brass' web. Basically that means when you change headstamps, readjust the tool. It usually takes only a tiny nudge one way or the other, but expecting every brand of crimped brass to decrimp the same way without adjusting the tool is a great way to overdo the swage on some brands and underdo it on others. |
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I've been using my buddy"s SS for a while.
I decided I better get my own, so I just pulled the trigger. It should be here Friday Question on setting it up. I ran through 4k pieces the first time he loaned it to me. Felt good, brass was easy to prime. All same headstamp. Last time I borrowed it, I did 1k more same headstamp brass. I guess he had changed the set up because when I went to load it, I was crushing primers. So how do you know if you are swaging enough? I saw someone on YT using a gauge, but have not been able to find one. |
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I've borrowed my brothers and am trying to get a feel for it - given the scarcity of primers now, I'm trying not to press any in for adjustment but I guess I'll have to. I also designed this little 3D printed block to help out with 9mm. Before it didn't want to line up automatically. Just drops in there, but works great. Attached File Attached File |
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