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AUS
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Posted: 8/18/2015 8:52:11 AM EST
[#1]
Well i am probably going to try out David's dbt-44, which i will try and get printed through shapeways in polyamide / nylon - 12, which is no delrin but is very strong still, it uses a 25mm orbinar plossl like this.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=200760889116&alt=web This is David's website detailing the build, finished unit looks pretty awesome, i'm presuming it's ok to link this here, he says it does not come under itar regulations. http://aunv.blackice.com.au/cgi-bin/nightvision/forum?index=3Dprojects&story=DBT44 |
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GBR
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Posted: 8/18/2015 9:21:50 AM EST
[#2]
I have already got the orbinar plossl so will probably do the same. I will probably also test the 27mm plossl with adjustable focus too (for fun). But the 1 to 1 of the 25mm lens and Davids 25mm ocular does look like the best option for 1:1 magnification.
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GBR
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Posted: 8/20/2015 10:42:31 AM EST
[#3]
An issue i have with my first diy build is that it's sometimes hard to tell between, when it is too dark for the tube so is dim or when the batteries are low on power.
The way i have got around this is by switching the power off and when switching it on a few seconds later the tube seems brighter meaning the batteries are drained. On the gen 3 mx10160 project i would really like to create a low battery warning light like the pvs -14 by utilising a light pipe, LED and low voltage circuit. The only thing i am stuck on is at what voltage should I set for the warning light to come on? Also what ampage/current draw is there from a gen 3, and would it be wise to use a boost step-up converter to extent the battery life? I plan to run the tube off a single 3v cr123a battery. Thanks and any help would be appreciated. |
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AUS
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Posted: 8/23/2015 2:41:55 AM EST
[Last Edit: AusKahless]
[#4]
If you are looking for a voltage regulator, i recommend having a look at this site, they have some really good regulators.
I use one of their step down regulators in a DSA. https://www.pololu.com/category/84/regulators-and-power-supplies |
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GBR
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Posted: 8/24/2015 7:04:10 AM EST
[#5]
thanks, they look really good.
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GBR
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Posted: 9/14/2015 12:25:33 PM EST
[#6]
Hi Guys, Am I right in thinking that a canon 25mm f/0.78 (covers 1" sensor) would be too fast? or too heavy?
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AUS
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Posted: 9/15/2015 9:51:55 PM EST
[Last Edit: AusKahless]
[#7]
I came across this the other day, i dropped them an email, $280, cheapest fast lens i have found so far, probably the lens i will use on my build. http://www.universeoptics.com/product/el1025b-cctv-lens-assemblies-2/
As long as your fast lens has an adjustable aperture you can increase your f number to suit the situation. |
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GBR
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Posted: 9/16/2015 5:01:24 AM EST
[#8]
Thats a fantastic find. And the specs seem to be almost identical to the senko lens that you linked to. The only spec that is missing that would be nice to know is the weight of the lens. For many of the fast lenses i have seen, this spec is omitted which makes the decision very tricky.
the only lenses i have found in that price range have been used lenses, so that is a great find. I'll be really interested to see what results you get with it. My plan is to stick with my f/1.4 for the short term, get my build done and then upgrade the lens after when I have a bit more cash. I have been working on some rough designs so my project is coming along. I played a couple of airsoft night games last week using a friends pvs-14 which was an amazing experience. I notice that the pvs-14 has a 30mm diameter ocular compared to the orbinar 25ish mm plossl. I have found some 30mm lenses that have a focal length of 25mm so i am going to try and see if they will work. They will be delivered later this week so i will let you know how i get on. |
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AUS
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Posted: 9/16/2015 10:04:45 PM EST
[Last Edit: AusKahless]
[#9]
Good work man, definitely want to know how the larger eyepiece works out!
I will give you a run down of my plan so far for a gen 3 tube housing in a slightly pictorial manner. Lurking around the nightvisionforumuk for various dsa related info ive noticed it has become popular for builders to use various optical filter rings and tubes for housing parts since they are alloy, look pro and screw together neatly. So i was thinking these parts would go together nicely. Cs to c mount adapter 
C mount to m42 adapter, this plus the above adapter will give 10mm spacing to the front of the tube, leaving another 6 to the photocathode, just a small spacer needed to bring it to 17.5 total. 
M42 extension tube, 30mm in length, this will house the tube, comes with two shorter extension tube segments, small one could be added if more length is needed, internal diameter of 42mm and it reduces slightly at the male threaded end that reduction will hold a spacer on the viewing end of the tube. 
M42 to m42 helicoid ring adapter 12-17mm, this will give it dioptre adjustment, it has 5mm of in out movement when you twist it, the plossl eyepiece would have to fixed to this somehow, perhaps a step up ring close to the eyepiece diameter to 42mm would help. 
This would just leave a battery housing and a few spacers to make, what do you think? Im just waiting on the slow boat from china for parts to arrive. |
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GBR
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Posted: 9/17/2015 7:42:52 AM EST
[#10]
That's some great work, I'm going to have to spend some time wrapping my head around it but looks really good. Have you got any links to the relevant forum pages. Many thanks for sharing those parts photos.
The eyepiece lenses came today and they look pretty good, i did a few rough tests holding them on their own just with fingers to space them but i was impressed. They are fairly chunky but thats a good thing. The diameters are 33mm (closest to the eye) and 35mm. Eye relief seems pretty good. I will need to find a way of temporarily mounting them and test looking at a circle the same diameter as a output window. Overall i think they will do the job. I have also found some bits to make an amber filter and demist shield. |
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GBR
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Posted: 9/18/2015 2:37:47 PM EST
[#11]
I have tested the lenses that i received. Unfortunately I was sent the 52mm focal length lenses not the 25mm lenses. Thats 2 weeks wasted.
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GBR
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Posted: 10/12/2015 11:51:17 AM EST
[#12]
I finally received the 25mm lens set but they were 25mm in diameter and not the stated 30mm diameter. I found another 30mm diameter lens set but the problem is that they would need to be mounted right next to the tube so no room for diopter adjustment not to mention availability issues.. It looks like I have come full circle back to the Orbinar.
One thing i have noticed is that most gen 3 scopes have a 27mm focal length objective and a 25mm ocular, i believe its this ratio because its that same difference in size as the input and output window. Therefore a 25mm objective and 25mm ocular will give a 9.5% magnification. For anyone that has built one, is this noticeable when using it head mounted? thanks Neal |
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GBR
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Posted: 10/26/2015 11:07:16 AM EST
[Last Edit: bobsboy2007]
[#13]
I have updated the battery compartment on my cascade scope to improve battery life. It now uses 2 cr123a batteries.
To fund my next project I am selling it on ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gen1-Cascade-Night-Vision-Device-/301779809890? you can see photos of it there. Video of the performance below although it doesnt do it justice as i tested it side by side with a pvs-14 with a mx10160 and this was definately on a par. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlkX66TK7io |
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AUS
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Posted: 10/26/2015 4:27:50 PM EST
[#14]
Hey man, nice job on the cascade, looks good, what type of mount is that you are using on it? That's pretty much the final stage for my cascade tube but i am undecided about what type of mount to make or a fix.
On another note i learned something the other day from another forum, you can take a 25mm camera lens spin it around and look through it the wrong way and use it as an eyepiece, when i read it i grabbed a lens (50mm) put it close to my phone and bam, instant eyepiece with built in focus, some lenses you can even open up and remove the iris diaphragm assembly. Seemed like a useful idea. Hey ive got all my parts for my gen 3 housing made of optical filter parts, almost have it done, will post some pictures soon! Later! |
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GBR
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Posted: 10/26/2015 5:44:56 PM EST
[#15]
Thanks. The mount is a clone la rue acog mount. Search for LR Tactical ACOG 4XDOS Optic Mount. This is screwed on to the 1/4 inch outer tube. You can take the mount off to reveal a tripod mount hole that I tapped. I also got some of the parts you listed as they look very useful. Thanks for the objective as an eyepiece tip. I will have to try that. I'm really looking forward to seeing your gen 3 when it's all together.
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FL, USA
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Posted: 10/26/2015 7:38:13 PM EST
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bobsboy2007:
I have updated the battery compartment on my cascade scope to improve battery life. It now uses 2 cr123a batteries. To fund my next project I am selling it on ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gen1-Cascade-Night-Vision-Device-/301779809890? you can see photos of it there. Video of the performance below although it doesnt do it justice as i tested it side by side with a pvs-14 with a mx10160 and this was definately on a par. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlkX66TK7io Do you have pics and parts you used to do the batteries? That's how I want to do it. |
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AUS
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Posted: 10/26/2015 8:46:23 PM EST
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bobsboy2007:
I have updated the battery compartment on my cascade scope to improve battery life. It now uses 2 cr123a batteries. To fund my next project I am selling it on ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gen1-Cascade-Night-Vision-Device-/301779809890? you can see photos of it there. Video of the performance below although it doesnt do it justice as i tested it side by side with a pvs-14 with a mx10160 and this was definately on a par. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlkX66TK7io So i am guessing you have used a twin cr123a illuminator as a battery housing? I had similar thoughts, if it is an IR illuminator it would kill two birds with one stone, you've built a nice unit all round man. |
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GBR
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Posted: 10/27/2015 4:50:57 AM EST
[#18]
the flashlight housing is like one of these (shop around for best price)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UltraFire-Tactical-501C-CREE-R5-LED-CR123A-Flashlight-Torch-Mount-Charger-Set-/251204263430?hash=item3a7cf0de06:m:mK4VQn7jIrdh1kvAdpIC0Ag one end i have the clicky switch and the other i have the remote switch end but have cut the pressure pad off and connected the wires (soldered to extension wires) to the P8079HP. I used the mount below (again, shop around for best price) http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-pcs-25mm-1-Inch-High-Profile-Ring-Scope-Weaver-Rail-Mount-20mm-Picatinny-us-ls-/221814570950?hash=item33a52dbfc6:g:lwwAAOSwHnFVjWyO you can see that there is a bit of a curved window, once you have cut the uprights off it fits nicely ronnd the external 1/4" thick pipe. I drilled through and tapped the outer pipe and just attached the mount with a screw. It's hard to explain in words. But its a very quick job. I didnt do an on board illuminator as i used it rifle mounted and i have an illuminator and laser on my rifle and to be honest, i have only ever used an illuminator in buildings. I suppose you could wire an IR led, resistor and switch in to use the same powersource as the tube. I will say that the rechargable 3.7 volt cr123a batteryies actually combine to around 8.4 volts when just charged. But this drops down fairly fast to a more stable level. If you dont want to risk this you may want to go with 3v cr123a batteries. Previously i had a coin battery holder on there but they were only good for 1 to 2 hours maximum. As the batteries get drained, the voltage drops and the tube gets dimmer and dimmer. You really need to keep the power supply above 5 volts with an ideal maximum of 7 volts. Once the power drops to 4 volts the tube will only be working at 50% performance. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 10/27/2015 5:19:49 PM EST
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bobsboy2007:
the flashlight housing is like one of these (shop around for best price) http://www.ebay.com/itm/UltraFire-Tactical-501C-CREE-R5-LED-CR123A-Flashlight-Torch-Mount-Charger-Set-/251204263430?hash=item3a7cf0de06:m:mK4VQn7jIrdh1kvAdpIC0Ag one end i have the clicky switch and the other i have the remote switch end but have cut the pressure pad off and connected the wires (soldered to extension wires) to the P8079HP. I used the mount below (again, shop around for best price) http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-pcs-25mm-1-Inch-High-Profile-Ring-Scope-Weaver-Rail-Mount-20mm-Picatinny-us-ls-/221814570950?hash=item33a52dbfc6:g:lwwAAOSwHnFVjWyO you can see that there is a bit of a curved window, once you have cut the uprights off it fits nicely ronnd the external 1/4" thick pipe. I drilled through and tapped the outer pipe and just attached the mount with a screw. It's hard to explain in words. But its a very quick job. I didnt do an on board illuminator as i used it rifle mounted and i have an illuminator and laser on my rifle and to be honest, i have only ever used an illuminator in buildings. I suppose you could wire an IR led, resistor and switch in to use the same powersource as the tube. I will say that the rechargable 3.7 volt cr123a batteryies actually combine to around 8.4 volts when just charged. But this drops down fairly fast to a more stable level. If you dont want to risk this you may want to go with 3v cr123a batteries. Previously i had a coin battery holder on there but they were only good for 1 to 2 hours maximum. As the batteries get drained, the voltage drops and the tube gets dimmer and dimmer. You really need to keep the power supply above 5 volts with an ideal maximum of 7 volts. Once the power drops to 4 volts the tube will only be working at 50% performance. Great info. This is what I needed. One more question. The picture below is from the link you gave. My question is on one end you leave the on/off button. On the the other you remove the bulb to attach the pressure switch. But in the pic. It looks larger threads. Does the larger part remove also? So it's the same size on both sides? 
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GBR
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Posted: 10/27/2015 5:33:39 PM EST
[#20]
Yes, the rest of the head unscrews. Both ends have the same thread.
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FL, USA
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Posted: 10/27/2015 10:07:42 PM EST
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bobsboy2007:
Yes, the rest of the head unscrews. Both ends have the same thread. Thanks. Your the best. |
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GBR
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Posted: 12/3/2015 5:46:21 PM EST
[#22]
Hi David,
I have a quick question about voltage for an mx10160. I know i could power it with a cr123a battery but Ideally i would like to use one of the Pololu step-up/down converters and run it off 2x AA batteries. I would prefer to use a fixed voltage option rather than a variable one , just in case the pot moves and gives too much voltage. But the question is, is 3.3v too much voltage for the tube or should I use a variable voltage option and if so, should it be set to 3v or even lower? These are the options I am looking at. Pololu Step-Up Variable Voltage Regulator 2-5.25V, U1V11A Pololu Step-Up/Down 3.3V, >500mA Voltage Regulator S7V8F3 Many thanks in advance. Neal |
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USA
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Posted: 12/5/2015 5:45:22 PM EST
[#23]
I was trying to get the DBT-53 .stl files, but aunv.blackice.com.au seems to be down. Anyone knows where i can get the files? Someona can send me them?
Thanks! |
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GBR
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Posted: 12/17/2015 10:00:20 AM EST
[#24]
Hi AusKahless,
pm sent |
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MD, USA
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Posted: 2/8/2016 12:35:38 PM EST
[#25]
I'm a complete noob when it comes to NODs. Can someone point me to a place where I can learn about all the parts of the NODs?
These homemade tubes seem really interesting, is there any way I could build a homade tube able to withstand rifle recoil, so I could make a ghetto clip-on Nightvision sight? Thanks for any help. |
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Posted: 2/8/2016 12:41:47 PM EST
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Time-: I'm a complete noob when it comes to NODs. Can someone point me to a place where I can learn about all the parts of the NODs? These homemade tubes seem really interesting, is there any way I could build a homade tube able to withstand rifle recoil, so I could make a ghetto clip-on Nightvision sight? Thanks for any help. Start with David's write up, page one. Everything you need to know is in here. |
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Posted: 6/2/2016 12:15:25 PM EST
[#27]
Tagged for later...
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Posted: 7/30/2016 10:06:06 AM EST
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hankforker: Tagged for later... Suggestions coming in are that people are no longer able to obtain these tubes - I haven't heard back from the suppliers in a while, and I think that we may have used them all up - Anyway, if anyone does manage to locate one from a direct supplier, please let me know - Thanks David. |
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SC, USA
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Posted: 8/20/2016 1:02:48 PM EST
[#29]
Based on recent email correspondence with Starlight LTD. in the UK (which took a day or three for each part of the exchange, they obviously are not big on checking or replying to email), they would seem to have a fair number available. I have three on order now
<quote> Julian Marsh <[email protected]> To <me> Aug 16 at 6:58 AM We may have between 1500 – 2000 in stock, I won’t be counting them for a while. Best regards, Julian </quote> So, based on this, it would seem that the fun has yet to end. :-) |
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SC, USA
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Posted: 8/21/2016 11:20:15 AM EST
[#30]
BTW, I am a little unclear on something...I am looking at doing a DIY weapon sight and I seem to recall reading from different sources that I would need to glue the reticle in place either on the back or the front end of the tube...I am looking at getting a ground glass reticle from surplusshed.com. Any pros or cons on either approach? TIA
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SC, USA
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Posted: 8/25/2016 7:32:36 PM EST
[Last Edit: bullet308]
[#31]
Aaaand I now have three P8079HP tubes in my position...
How in HELL did they get them here so quick? I mailed off the end user certificate and ten days later, I have tubes. Oh, well...here we go! :-) 
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LVA
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Posted: 9/12/2016 1:23:16 PM EST
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bullet308:
BTW, I am a little unclear on something...I am looking at doing a DIY weapon sight and I seem to recall reading from different sources that I would need to glue the reticle in place either on the back or the front end of the tube...I am looking at getting a ground glass reticle from surplusshed.com. Any pros or cons on either approach? TIA etched side of glass reticle must be placed as close as possible to the fiber optic plate. there is some sort of protective material over the output window of intensifier - you will not be able to adjust the ocular on tube output and reticle there will be either sharp scene and blurry reticle or blurry reticle and sharp scene. i would suggest to glue reticle to the ring that fits snugly on the protruded input window of the tube. it can be held only by friction with no problems. no need to glue the reticle to the tube directly,it is very easy to mess things up that way. 
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HKG
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Posted: 10/14/2016 11:43:41 AM EST
[#33]
Man, I finally got around to this project again after I found a PVS-2 objective lens on eBay. Turns out the one I had gotten before was a PVS-4 lens instead.
Just ordered the aluminium tubing for the body and I'm working on a mount system to allow me to use this as a rail mounted rifle sight. Probably going to be making something similar to an old ELCAN mount. |
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Posted: 10/25/2016 2:58:23 PM EST
[#34]
What is the lifespan of a cascade tube?
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Posted: 10/26/2016 6:55:01 PM EST
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BigPolska: What is the lifespan of a cascade tube? Officially, about 2000 hours. However, they could keep working well past this - Unlike wafer tubes, they don't get ion-strike damage outside of the center, so if air doesn't get in, or diffuse from the glass, then they could easily last many thousands of hours. |
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Posted: 10/26/2016 7:07:13 PM EST
[#36]
thanks!
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NB, CAN
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Posted: 11/20/2016 3:05:41 PM EST
[#37]
Nice thread. From some of the ideas here I built a housing for my P8079HP tube out of PVC pipe with end caps. It works really well on a tripod with a dslr behind it. I have an articulating flip out screen on the camera which makes sky watching nice, no neck craning, just watch the screen while moving the tube arouind.
After a while I wanted to hand hold it and scan the sky with an eyepiece so I added a 10x jewelers loupe to the back end but the unit was really too heavy to hold for very long. I found a picture of a tube in a minimalist housing, I think it was one built by Cj7hawk (hope I'm giving credit to the right person). I can't find that link right now, it might be somewhere in this thread. I used a 25mm Plossl eyepiece and routed plywood circles for the end caps, it weights 3lbs 4 oz on the scales, not bad, still heavy but a lot lighter and I find I use it a lot more. 
Thanks for all the great ideas in this thread! |
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Posted: 11/20/2016 3:20:45 PM EST
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By starman345:
Nice thread. From some of the ideas here I built a housing for my P8079HP tube out of PVC pipe with end caps. It works really well on a tripod with a dslr behind it. I have an articulating flip out screen on the camera which makes sky watching nice, no neck craning, just watch the screen while moving the tube arouind. http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa283/starman345/Night%20Vision/DSC_0009.jpg After a while I wanted to hand hold it and scan the sky with an eyepiece so I added a 10x jewelers loupe to the back end but the unit was really too heavy to hold for very long. I found a picture of a tube in a minimalist housing, I think it was one built by Cj7hawk (hope I'm giving credit to the right person). I can't find that link right now, it might be somewhere in this thread. I used a 25mm Plossl eyepiece and routed plywood circles for the end caps, it weights 3lbs 4 oz on the scales, not bad, still heavy but a lot lighter and I find I use it a lot more. http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa283/starman345/Night%20Vision/DSC_0001.jpg Thanks for all the great ideas in this thread! Very nice! |
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USA
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Posted: 12/27/2016 5:03:30 PM EST
[Last Edit: OneFrMonster]
[#39]
Hi everyone,
I just bought a CANON HF G40 and i'm interested to make this kit ( DIY Night Scopes, Night Vision Equipment ) paired with. I would like to use a tripod with my camera and use night vision. What do you think i should buy in addition to this Kit ? Example with a PVS 14 assembly : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KEx-SnfMSVM Thanks in advance for your advices. Sorry for my bad english . |
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NB, CAN
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Posted: 12/29/2016 8:50:52 AM EST
[#40]
Hi,
It looks like there is no objective lens with that kit, do you have something you can use for that? The kit comes with a c mount so you would need that type of lens or another mount type lens with a c mount adapter. The faster the lens more light gets to the tube, I use a 50mm and sometimes an 85mm both f/1.4 lenses with my Cascade tube. How did you intend to use the camera with the tube? You would probably need some adapters if you wanted to make a connection between the camera and tube. I can't tell from the kit pictures how the eyepiece is connected to the Cascade tube. I'd be interested how you make out with this kit, I have seen it on that site before but never have read of anyone trying it. |
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USA
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Posted: 12/30/2016 2:49:48 PM EST
[Last Edit: OneFrMonster]
[#41]
Hi,
Thanks for your answer. I have this Objective lens with this Adapter. Regarding the connection between the camera and the tube, i will try to focus the eyepiece. I hope it will work! As soon as i get the Kit, i'll share photos here. :) |
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Posted: 1/9/2017 7:45:51 PM EST
[#42]
I need to get back to finishing mine. I bought a tube right after this thread was started. I have an aluminum tube for the housing, an Israeli eye piece i found on eBay and a CCTV lens. I think I'm going to design and 3d print end caps/lens holders and a battery housing. I think I'm going to use a rechargeable NICD battery and build an illuminator into the battery housing. Does anyone know of an IR flashlight head that would work? I was thinking of 3d printing threads for the head and running it off the main battery with a voltage regulator.
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Posted: 1/18/2017 11:14:07 AM EST
[#43]
I just need to build the housing.
Where are the 3D printed housing ends? I remember seeing them somewhere. Where can I find a rubber eyepiece for the ocular lens made for these tubes? |
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USA
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Posted: 2/2/2017 1:53:42 PM EST
[Last Edit: Dudosk]
[#44]
Hi,
so i finaly remembered to post some pics of my project inspired by this thread. Housing is self made from aluminium alloy and a modified plastic box with IP rating. Objective is some 75mm, f1,3 C mount, dont know the brand, eyepiece is from PVS-2 
I allso have some objevtives with no use for me: unused PVS-2 objective in good condition (i bough it first and the realized, it will be much easier for me to use C-mount objective) 50mm, f1,4 C-mount, chinese made, but usable Anybody interested? |
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NB, CAN
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Posted: 2/2/2017 2:32:50 PM EST
[#45]
Nice job!
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IL, USA
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Posted: 6/4/2017 2:38:45 PM EST
[#46]
Just got done ordering all the parts to build my first gen3 (pvs-14 with omni vii pinnacle tube)
I will be using it helmet mounted for camping/hiking/etc.... I enjoy everything DIY, and stumbled upon this cascade project and I am all in! Will be ordering my p8079hp this fri..... but..... Im still very confused about the options I have for objective lens, and the eyepiece. Im working my way through this long thread but in the meantime, figured Id post my intended use of the cascade monocular and maybe could get some part recommendations. I plan on building 2 of these. First one will be with pvc to get the concept and build experience down, then the second one will be aluminum with welded on aluminum battery housing and will refine the build. I used to be into astronomy and still have a couple small refractor telescopes in the basement. Id like to build my first one to mount onto one of these telescopes tripod and just using it for spotting/scanning the night sky, maybe add a digital camera down the road. The second one, I would like to actually use with a telescope, I would probably need a c-mount style objective lens where I could remove the front lens and thread on a 1.25" adapter tube that would fit inside my telescopes focuser. Is this correct? For my first build (just for spotting/scanning the sky)....this will be the easier build so just want to focus on it for now. I will order the p8079hp tube friday. Will use a 4 battery holder in a hobby box. What are my best options for lenses? I want to go with a cheap but good performing option for this one so a cheaper fixed objective lens is fine. What are my options here? Then for an eyepiece..... whats the cheapest route that still gives good performance? An eye loupe? Would any certain telescope eyepieces work? Any way to use a variable zoom eyepiece? Sorry.... Im still very new to this type of build. Just trying to get an idea of options,cost, and a partlist. thanks! |
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Posted: 8/20/2017 4:33:14 AM EST
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By deezdrama:
Just got done ordering all the parts to build my first gen3 (pvs-14 with omni vii pinnacle tube) I will be using it helmet mounted for camping/hiking/etc.... I enjoy everything DIY, and stumbled upon this cascade project and I am all in! Will be ordering my p8079hp this fri..... but..... Im still very confused about the options I have for objective lens, and the eyepiece. Im working my way through this long thread but in the meantime, figured Id post my intended use of the cascade monocular and maybe could get some part recommendations. I plan on building 2 of these. First one will be with pvc to get the concept and build experience down, then the second one will be aluminum with welded on aluminum battery housing and will refine the build. I used to be into astronomy and still have a couple small refractor telescopes in the basement. Id like to build my first one to mount onto one of these telescopes tripod and just using it for spotting/scanning the night sky, maybe add a digital camera down the road. The second one, I would like to actually use with a telescope, I would probably need a c-mount style objective lens where I could remove the front lens and thread on a 1.25" adapter tube that would fit inside my telescopes focuser. Is this correct? For my first build (just for spotting/scanning the sky)....this will be the easier build so just want to focus on it for now. I will order the p8079hp tube friday. Will use a 4 battery holder in a hobby box. What are my best options for lenses? I want to go with a cheap but good performing option for this one so a cheaper fixed objective lens is fine. What are my options here? Then for an eyepiece..... whats the cheapest route that still gives good performance? An eye loupe? Would any certain telescope eyepieces work? Any way to use a variable zoom eyepiece? Sorry.... Im still very new to this type of build. Just trying to get an idea of options,cost, and a partlist. thanks! I just went to E-bay and looked for some lens that fit what I was looking for. You can find them for under $100. If you go through all the threads, David (the one who started this) had a place that made some plastic pieces which made putting this together very easy (I might have to look through myself just to get some extra pieces for mine). |
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FIN
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Posted: 11/5/2017 9:02:56 PM EST
[#48]
Had to create an account after reading this through and ordering all the parts along the way. Always been fascinated by the ability to see in the dark. Ever since i got hold of some soviet gen 0 goggles and modifying those, i've wanted to make a passive device and cascade is definitely the way to go. I've found all the information i needed on this great thread, thanks so much. Expecting the tube to come this week. Control box is already made.
https://s1.postimg.org/2evi9kmrcf/20171101_161522_HDR.jpg Red button gives the input voltage. Main switch is on the other side. 4xAA. |
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LVA
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Posted: 11/9/2017 5:43:19 AM EST
[#49]
hi wattius,good luck with your build.
i am glad to see some activity in this thread again. it has been rather quiet lately. what lenses do you plan to use for objective and ocular ? plastic housing or metal? |
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FIN
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Posted: 11/9/2017 6:38:35 AM EST
[Last Edit: wattius]
[#50]
Thanks. Already received the tube and the eyepiece: a 40mm 10x adjustable loupe. Objective lens is a Fujian 50mm F1,4 with adjustable aperture and focus. We'll see how those work together.
Found some PVC pipe with an inner diameter of a hair over 70mm, tube fits in like a glove. Spent the whole day looking for a screw for the positive terminal. Got something that fits...kinda. 3-48 is a moon rock around here. The tube works and is VERY powerful. I was worried about it making all kinds of high pitched noises like on some videos that i've watched but this one is totally silent. Serial number is nearly 21 000 so i think it's a pretty late one. |
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