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Posted: 1/25/2009 7:18:33 AM EST
New reloader here.  I scored 800 cases from my gun club gratis.  Please help ID'ing these.  I don't have a swager, as I intended to only use uncrimped brass.  Now I see it may pay for itself soon.

I want to know if it is crimped, and is it notable in any way (poor/great quality)

WCC

FC - I hear this is sketchy (web thickness)

Winchester

PPU - Prvi Partisan

R-P

IK or 1K

S+B

LC

Thanks for helping a noob.  I have blue everything, should I get their swager, or is there a cheaper option?

My reloading class is on 1/31/9.  I tried depriming a couple cases and already busted my die.  Didn't take much force at all!  Dillion 550B.
Link Posted: 1/25/2009 7:39:31 AM EST
Quoted:
New reloader here.  I scored 800 cases from my gun club gratis.  Please help ID'ing these.  I don't have a swager, as I intended to only use uncrimped brass.  Now I see it may pay for itself soon.

I want to know if it is crimped, and is it notable in any way (poor/great quality)

WCC with date  ––->  Crimp (purple/red/black primer paint)

FC - I hear this is sketchy (web thickness)  ––> couple style of FC that I am aware of, commercial, and that loaded in .mil brass, look for crimp if red or clear green/blue paint at primer

Winchester 223 REM ––-> commercial, run with it

PPU - Prvi Partisan ––->  crimp and small flash holes, buy a #2 center drill or other standard drill bit to open open the flash holes

R-P 223 REM ––-> commercial, run with it

IK or 1K ––-> crimp, may have small flash holes

S+B ––-> [violet]may be no crimp, but I have not messed any of it[/violet]

LC xx ––-> crimp

Thanks for helping a noob.  I have blue everything, should I get their swager, or is there a cheaper option?

My reloading class is on 1/31/9.  I tried depriming a couple cases and already busted my die.  Didn't take much force at all!  Dillion 550B.


Link Posted: 1/25/2009 3:28:59 PM EST
Thanks for the help.

Does a swager also remove the spent crimped primer?  If not, how do you remove it?
Link Posted: 1/25/2009 4:40:04 PM EST
Quoted:
Thanks for the help.

Does a swager also remove the spent crimped primer?  If not, how do you remove it?


Run the case through a "size" die first, the "de-cap" pin  in the die body will push the old primer out,  then you can service the pocket as needed.
Link Posted: 1/25/2009 8:01:07 PM EST
That is what I tried to do, and I bent the sizing die's depriming pin all to hell.  Good thing big blue gave me 2.  If it is crimped, I thought I taught myself that it will not be pushed out the regular way.

Wot am I doing wrong?
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 4:51:05 AM EST
Quoted:
That is what I tried to do, and I bent the sizing die's depriming pin all to hell.  Good thing big blue gave me 2.  If it is crimped, I thought I taught myself that it will not be pushed out the regular way.

Wot am I doing wrong?


When I am resizing range pickups for 223 I lube them all and go to work.

I go slower then normal so I can feel if there is pressure on the decapping pin.

If there is more pressure then normal I slow down the stroke and gently push the ram all the way up.

I use RCBS dies so I am not sure what you are using but I set my decapping pin to be a decent depth to get 90% of the crimped primers out.

I hand check the brass as it passes the 3-4 station on my Dillon 650 and check to see if it deprimed.

If the first pass did not get the primer out I keep it aside.  When I am done with a batch I go back to the crimped primers that did not get deprimed.  If the primers are not half way out I just run them through the casefeeder again.  This time when I deprime I listen for the primer to drop.  If it doesn't drop I lower the ram just alittle and rais it up again.  This gets rid of most crimped in primers.

If I have cases where the primers are more then halfway out I need to load them manually in the resizing station as they will fall sideways or get jammed on the Dillon if I use the casefeeder.  The trick is to remove the station 1 piece and manually put the case in the shellholder so you can deprime it all the way.

If it deprimed I check to see if it was previously swaged or has a visible crimp with sealant.  I toss those on one bin.

I toss the obvious reamed brass into another bin and save that for blasting ammo.

I don't want to touch each piece of brass 20 times.

I am sure everyone has their own process but this is mine until I figure out a more efficient way.
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 5:03:34 AM EST
Crimped primers can be decapped with a standard resizing die.

2 cautions,

1. Have to be sure you are working with Boxer primed cases, not Berdan.

Boxer on left, Berdan on right.

2. Those IK cases DO have a small flashole.

If you tried to deprime those with a standard FL sizing die, you broke something.

They will decap with a Lee Universal Decapper Die.

Tighten the collet very snug.

The flasholes will be swaged larger as you decap.

Put a little case lube on the decapping pin, every 3 or 4 cases. Will keep decapping pin from pulling out.


So which cases broke the decapping pin/stem?

Decapping stem can be adjusted wrong causing problems.

Need more info.
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 5:08:50 AM EST
Quoted:
New reloader here.  I scored 800 cases from my gun club gratis.  Please help ID'ing these.  I don't have a swager, as I intended to only use uncrimped brass.  Now I see it may pay for itself soon.

I want to know if it is crimped, and is it notable in any way (poor/great quality)

WCC  Crimped

FC - I hear this is sketchy (web thickness) I will not load these for an AR.

Winchester GTG

PPU - Prvi Partisan No experiance with these

R-P  GTG

IK or 1K  See previous post, good brass after case prep

S+B   No experiance with these

LC  Crimped, my favorite brass

Thanks for helping a noob.  I have blue everything, should I get their swager, or is there a cheaper option?

My reloading class is on 1/31/9.  I tried depriming a couple cases and already busted my die.  Didn't take much force at all!  Dillion 550B.


Link Posted: 1/26/2009 8:15:12 AM EST
Do .223 Berdan primed cases exist?  I had not considered that.  It is awful hard to see into the case to figure that out.  Now I am concerned about any case that may be commie.

The die broke by bending the pin, not leaving pin in case.  Not sure how lubing pin would help, but I will do it.

The case that broke the pin was in fact a IK case.  If I am adjusting die wrong, I better just wait until my reloading class this weekend before I mess around anymore.

Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:02:43 PM EST
Quoted:
Do .223 Berdan primed cases exist?
Ummm,,,,  YES, lots of them yellow cased berdan thingies around..

Now I am concerned about any case that may be commie.
Commies not sell use berdan brass.... berdan steel ––-> YES


The case that broke the pin was in fact a IK case.
Small flash hole, as noted in my first reply.. you got in a hurry trying to poke the primer out and size the case.

Look in the yellow pages for a tool supplier near you, and see if you can find a long drill bit to use to open the flash holes prior to sizing.  You might get lucky at LOWES.




Link Posted: 1/26/2009 3:57:33 PM EST
Quoted:
Do .223 Berdan primed cases exist?  

Not that I know of, you will find a lot of them on the ground as once fired brass.

I had not considered that.  It is awful hard to see into the case to figure that out.

Called the flashlight test, shine down neck to check cases.

Boxer on left, Berdan on right.

Now I am concerned about any case that may be commie.

Check 1 case per headstamp, they will be all the same type.

The die broke by bending the pin, not leaving pin in case.

Not sure how lubing pin would help, but I will do it.

This will only work with the Lee UC die I mentioned in a previous post.(reread post)

The case that broke the pin was in fact a IK case.  

I thought so, Been there, done that. Get the Lee UC. (they are cheap)

If I am adjusting die wrong, I better just wait until my reloading class this weekend before I mess around anymore.

Good idea.



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