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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 8/27/2003 4:25:58 AM EST
I just got a CVA reproduction of a brass frame 1858 Remington New Army revolver, 44 caliber.

It holds a max charge of 30 grains of Black Powder or 24 grains of Pyrodex.

I have a tub of Pyrodex RS, which stands for Rifle/Shotgun. I am guessing I should get Pyrodex P which is for Pistol.

I have to read the instruction book again to make sure, but I could not find anything stating do not use RS in the revolver.

My question is: What the heck is the difference between RS and P, and do you think it would be okay to use RS in my revolver.

PS: Max is 24 grains of Pyrodex, I plan to use 20.

Link Posted: 8/27/2003 6:23:41 AM EST
[Last Edit: 8/27/2003 6:24:00 AM EST by DonOhio39]
My first impulse is to tell you to get some REAL black powder for that gun. I've had poor experiances with pyro. Not shooting problems, corrosion problems.

If I had a new gun and all I has was some R/S pyro, I'd probably shoot it. I'd expect some loss of velocity, but likely nothing else.

Anything you do though, You do at your own risk.

Don in Ohio
Link Posted: 8/27/2003 7:50:18 AM EST

I only use blackpowder, not pyrodex, but if I were to hazard a guess, I would say that the R/S pyrodex is coarser than the pistol pyrodex. For blackpowder rifles of .50 caliber or higher, shooters use ff blackpowder. For pistols, fff is used which is a finer grain of blackpowder.
Link Posted: 8/27/2003 3:42:43 PM EST
Just went and double checked. Hogden marks their labels. The RS is ffg equivelent.
I've always used FFFg in revolvers, but check your manual again.
I stay away from pyrodex powder. I use pellets in my in-lines, and the sidelocks get blackpowder. They are all rated for pyrodex, but none of them like it.
Link Posted: 8/28/2003 4:22:26 AM EST
I've used pyrodex almost exclusively in my BPRevolvers. The pistol powder is a finer grain allowing less space for diffrent a combustion rate I'd think. I'm not sure on the ppp/fff markings were talking years ago, but I also used (cooking) corn starch to only fill the cylinders 30cs/70ppp powder to the cap of course, cornstarch on top of the pyrodex, then seat the ball, for 25yrd shots and to extend the powder. It worked well. You do not need a full load for 25yrds punching paper right?
Link Posted: 8/28/2003 4:37:23 AM EST
[Last Edit: 8/28/2003 4:42:12 AM EST by TomJefferson]
Get the "P". It's the speed of the burn you are after and it will allow you to use quick reload canisters with pistol shot load measures. Measuring every load on a six shooter is a pain in the ass.

Can also speak up for the real gunpowder,fffg, just because it gives a more authentic feel to the shoot and lot's more smoke. Cool. It's a bit hard to find these days though. Otherwise, pyrodex is fine and haven't had an issue with it.

Also would like to suggest the pre-cut lubed wads. They save time reloading, insure less chance of capping off, and takes care of your gun a bit better.

Enjoy, blackpowder is a different world and a heck of alot of fun.

Link Posted: 8/28/2003 2:14:08 PM EST
Link Posted: 9/9/2003 11:23:38 AM EST
I have used FFFg and Pyrdex P and RS in my CVA 1860 Colt repro. They have all worked for me and gave acceptable velocities and accuracy. The only issue I had was the RS did not flow smoothly through my pistol powder flask. I had to shake it to get it to fill the measuring tube completely. It would bridge and stop flowing.

If you don't feel like going out and buying Pyro P or FFFg the RS will work just fine with the advantage of slightly lower pressures.

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