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Posted: 2/12/2011 11:12:19 AM EDT
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Hey everyone.
Ok, so I've been getting into reloading. Well, mostly just reading and cleaning my saved up brass. I haven't even purchased a press yet, but I'm learning towards the LEE Classic Turret. Anyway, so I have a question pretty basic question: So what powder do I start with? I mean like I see that there are a few different powders listed in my manuals for every caliber, so which one do I try first? Does it matter? Is it kinda like, whatever the store has on hand? Is there a better one for beginner, novice, expert, etc? This might be a simple and/or common sense thing, but I just really don't know. Thanks for taking the time to read. |
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Quoted:
I use either Varget or IMR 4064 for .223. The 4064 is also good for .270...and I love my Lee Turret Press Thanks for the info! I plan on reloading mostly .223 and .40 at the moment. I guess that's what it is then, ie, just like whatever I can get (powder wise) and go from there? Thanks again. |
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Get the ABC's of reloading and a couple manuals and read up. As far as powder goes the manuals will tell you which powders work best in each cartridge. If you do go with the turret press, you can run it single stage until you get each step down and understand the how's and why's.
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That's part of the fun of reloading... the permutations of all the different powders with all the different bullets, and all the different primers, cases, OALs, etc. Some powders can be dismissed for normal loads (ie, pistol powders for .223, or magnum rifle powders for .223) but some could be used for special sub-sonic loads. So, the best place to start is where others have had success. What works well in others' rifles MAY (or may NOT) work well in yours. The reloading database link ( http://www.ar15.com/content/page.html?id=206 ) at the top of the Reloading page is a great place to start. Just remember to always start low, and work your way up to the listed maximums, watching for pressure indicators. There are a few powders that you'll see come up on this forum time after time. For 55 gr. FMJ plinkers, I see BLC2, Tac, AA2230, H335. For 75/77 gr. precision rounds, I see Varget, Tac, RE15 mentioned regularly. When buying powder, I try to buy locally if possible. Buying powder on the web is only worth it if you buy at LEAST 10 pounds or so. YMMV. |
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Thanks for all the input guys!
I have a couple manuals and am currently reading thru them. That brings me to another question: what manual to trust? Currently, I have a Lyman manual, a Lee manual, and one of those caliber specific manuals for the .223 and the .40. I look in one and cross reference what it says in another and it slightly off. I guess this goes along with what someone said as it's part of the process and the manual really just gives a base line for a bullet type with a certain powder and it's up to me to find just what works the best for my rifle. |
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Quoted:
Thanks for all the input guys! I have a couple manuals and am currently reading thru them. That brings me to another question: what manual to trust? Currently, I have a Lyman manual, a Lee manual, and one of those caliber specific manuals for the .223 and the .40. I look in one and cross reference what it says in another and it slightly off. I guess this goes along with what someone said as it's part of the process and the manual really just gives a base line for a bullet type with a certain powder and it's up to me to find just what works the best for my rifle. When you mention a manual, don't forget the manual number. If you have the latest Lyman it's # 49 and a great manual. If your Lee manual is 2 inches thick, it's # 2. Reloading is a fairly technical hobby, so be sure to use exact terms ( or if you don't know the term, give a good description) and full names. There are many components that have similar names, but are different. Like powders IMR-4895 and H-4895. If you just say 4895, we don't know which one you mean. Manuals rarely have the same data for a load. Different guns, components, and different people doing the tests will get different results. It's best to have several sources and get an average. Begin loading at the start load (lowest charge listed) and work up watching for pressure signs. Lyman # 49 page 22 is the start of the section for how to select components. Another source of reloading data is the on line sites of the powder companies. Check the Links at the top of the page. Also read the FAQ's and theTutorials. Read your manuals and ask questions, we will help. Welcome to the Reloading Forum. |
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It depends. If you are more specific about your loads, more people can give you suggestions on powders. For example, lead bullet reloads in .40 S&W will use different powder than what's used with full power jacketed reloads. I use Power Pistol for full power loads and jacketed bullets.
If you are going to load .223 with blasting ammo (55 or 62 grain fmj's) then any powder from the manual will work just fine. If you want maximum accuracy with match grade bullets then the selection thins somewhat. I use Varget, RE-15, N140, N540 or H4895 for match loads with bullets weighing 68 grains and heavier. |
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Thanks again for the input guys!
Quoted:
Quoted:
Thanks for all the input guys! I have a couple manuals and am currently reading thru them. That brings me to another question: what manual to trust? Currently, I have a Lyman manual, a Lee manual, and one of those caliber specific manuals for the .223 and the .40. I look in one and cross reference what it says in another and it slightly off. I guess this goes along with what someone said as it's part of the process and the manual really just gives a base line for a bullet type with a certain powder and it's up to me to find just what works the best for my rifle. When you mention a manual, don't forget the manual number. If you have the latest Lyman it's # 49 and a great manual. If your Lee manual is 2 inches thick, it's # 2. Reloading is a fairly technical hobby, so be sure to use exact terms ( or if you don't know the term, give a good description) and full names. There are many components that have similar names, but are different. Like powders IMR-4895 and H-4895. If you just say 4895, we don't know which one you mean. Manuals rarely have the same data for a load. Different guns, components, and different people doing the tests will get different results. It's best to have several sources and get an average. Begin loading at the start load (lowest charge listed) and work up watching for pressure signs. Lyman # 49 page 22 is the start of the section for how to select components. Another source of reloading data is the on line sites of the powder companies. Check the Links at the top of the page. Also read the FAQ's and theTutorials. Read your manuals and ask questions, we will help. Welcome to the Reloading Forum. Point well taken. It is the Lyman #49 and it is the Lee #2. That's kinda what I was figuring after I thought about it a bit - that they really shouldn't be exactly the same data. Well, if they did have the same data, it would be a pretty big coincidence. |
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