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Posted: 11/24/2016 5:41:40 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/24/2016 5:49:10 PM EST by TANGOCHASER]
What really happens when you anodize over existing anodizing? Does it still have the hardness and just makes it ugly to look at or what?

I built an 80% lower but buggered up the buffer tube hole. Only way to make it work was to permanently attach the buffer tube. Buffer tube has been anodized but 80% lower has not. What can I expect to happen to the tube if I get the whole thing anodized?
Link Posted: 11/24/2016 9:11:31 PM EST
Originally Posted By TANGOCHASER:
What really happens when you anodize over existing anodizing? Does it still have the hardness and just makes it ugly to look at or what?

I built an 80% lower but buggered up the buffer tube hole. Only way to make it work was to permanently attach the buffer tube. Buffer tube has been anodized but 80% lower has not. What can I expect to happen to the tube if I get the whole thing anodized?
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How do you anodize over a layer of aluminum oxide???


Link Posted: 11/24/2016 9:27:28 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/24/2016 9:35:28 PM EST by jntmjt1]
If the steel lock ring and rear plate (as used on the carbine) and the steel buffer retaining detent and spring are still installed, they will be damaged in the anodizing process. Typically, the anodized part is non-conductive (the anodizing is an insulator) and will not be effected by the process.
Link Posted: 11/25/2016 12:12:55 AM EST
[Last Edit: 11/25/2016 12:15:32 AM EST by Olympic_Cerakote]
Link Posted: 11/25/2016 7:10:41 AM EST
Seeing how it's a buggered up 80% now, just krylon it and use it as beater lower.
Link Posted: 11/26/2016 3:20:40 AM EST
How did you permanently mount the buffer tube? is there another metal involved than Al?

If you are reanodizing, you need to strip the anodizing layer first with a base solution, then anodize again.
Link Posted: 11/26/2016 2:38:21 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/26/2016 8:21:23 PM EST by TANGOCHASER]
Lock ring and end plate are installed so I guess re-anodizing is out. Spot welded the tube to the lower. Ground down the weld and installed the end plate/lock ring.


Forgot to add I also JB Welded the threads for extra measure. I tried red Locktite but it failed to hold when firing.
Link Posted: 11/26/2016 6:36:40 PM EST
Link Posted: 11/26/2016 8:27:13 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/26/2016 8:29:05 PM EST by TANGOCHASER]
I might take you up on the offer. Black Friday price not an issue but I have a new problem.

I used a commercial buffer tube because that's all I had at the time, but none of commercial buttstocks I have work. They all start to go on but then get real tight real fast. Not sure what the issue is yet. Milspec stocks don't even begin to fit. Might have to try a different tube. Yeah won't that be fun taking it apart.
Link Posted: 11/27/2016 10:10:32 AM EST
if you anodize an already anodized part but with a few bare spots... it ought to just anodize those bare spots snd not effect the anodized finish. This is granted it was sealed well, preferably with a nickel acetate seal. you will also need to verify it's conductivity on the racking with a volt meter

otherwise it'll need to be stripped which has consequences. it can open up tolerances if over done and tends to show the grain structure (which can look cool sometimes) but is uneven.
Link Posted: 12/19/2016 12:01:36 AM EST
You can make light colors darker, but not the other way around without reanodizing, even with Type 3.

I believe that is only for like colors, such as gray to black.
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