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Posted: 12/28/2024 12:55:04 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Kalahnikid][Edited]
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The time has come for a second safe. My current safe is a 25" x 31" 60" Im trying to decide between a 5ft and 6ft tall safe. My current 5 footer has guns jam-packed tetris style on the floor, with a shelf at the top where I keep NV and pistol mags. I have a small house so square footage is at a premium and a 6ft tall safe would increase the interior storage area of the safe, but Im not sure its worth the extra $400 in the safe that Im looking at. It increases interior area, but is it useful interior area? Anyone have opinions on it its worth the cost. Did you buy the short one and regret it later? Do you love your 6ft tall safe? Dont think it mattered? Curious on your experiences. Im not buying until this upcoming summer so I have time to ponder. Thanks! *Im also considering buying a stackable washer / dryer, putting the safe were the dryer is now and buying the biggest fucker they make just so I (hopefully) wont have to do this again. 
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Its ok to own firearms solely for the purposes of fun and enjoyment.
| 6 ft for increased shelving area. If you buy a 5ft you'll fill it and wish you had the 6ft. At the end of the day buy once, cry once. Spend the money. But you already knew this. |
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I bought a modular safe from Zanotti and opted for the 6' version. Worth every penny. That extra shelf is really useful. My only regret is not buying a bigger one - I filled it as soon as I set it up. |
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Originally Posted By Cardplayer: 6 ft for increased shelving area. If you buy a 5ft you'll fill it and wish you had the 6ft. At the end of the day buy once, cry once. Spend the money. But you already knew this. Originally Posted By R2point0: Yeah.....I wish I knew this in 2013 when I bought my first one. I bought a modular safe from Zanotti and opted for the 6' version. Worth every penny. That extra shelf is really useful. My only regret is not buying a bigger one - I filled it as soon as I set it up. That's who I'm looking at as well. I haven't contacted them to ask but I assume they'd let me pick it up at their factory which would save me shipping costs. So that's two telling me what I was already kind of leaning towards. Thank you! I'm Open to hearing opinions from others too! |
Its ok to own firearms solely for the purposes of fun and enjoyment.
| Look at it like this,long after you’ve forgotten you spent the extra $400 you’ll still have a 6’ safe. |
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Fear is not real. The only place that fear can exist is in our thoughts. It is a product of our imagination.Danger is very real, but fear is a choice."
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Depending on how you set it up, that extra foot of height lets you double or get 50% more shelf space. Or extra clearance if you have some really long rifles. Definitely worth it. Just be aware that getting to stuff on the top shelf, at the back of the safe, might be a little more of a challenge. (Like another poster above, I have a zanotti and have never regretted getting the taller version.) |
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Originally Posted By Kalahnikid: That's who I'm looking at as well. I haven't contacted them to ask but I assume they'd let me pick it up at their factory which would save me shipping costs. So that's two telling me what I was already kind of leaning towards. Thank you! I'm Open to hearing opinions from others too! i'm sure they will let you pick it up. I have a smaller Zanotti, I didnt need a large safe , I could see the advantage of the 6 ft vs the 5 ft though. A second shelf would b nice. I can't say enough good things about Zanotti! |
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Originally Posted By airgunner: I went with the taller safe specifically to for plenty of pistol and mag storage... https://i.imgur.com/t8LpStG.jpg Nice It's also dawned on me that a 41" wide safe with two shelves I might be able to lay my SBR's on their tops and stack them in a row... And my AUG. I love that gun but it's a PITA to put in a safe since it's not shaped like other guns. Every person here has told me to buy the biggest safe I can. I should have known before asking. |
Its ok to own firearms solely for the purposes of fun and enjoyment.
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Originally Posted By Kalahnikid: Nice It's also dawned on me that a 41" wide safe with two shelves I might be able to lay my SBR's on their tops and stack them in a row... And my AUG. I love that gun but it's a PITA to put in a safe since it's not shaped like other guns. Every person here has told me to buy the biggest safe I can. I should have known before asking. |
"As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly." A. Carlson
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Originally Posted By R2point0: Yes, but now you have someone to blame when your wife bitches about the extra cost. "But they maaaaaaade me do it!" Originally Posted By R2point0: Originally Posted By Kalahnikid: Nice It's also dawned on me that a 41" wide safe with two shelves I might be able to lay my SBR's on their tops and stack them in a row... And my AUG. I love that gun but it's a PITA to put in a safe since it's not shaped like other guns. Every person here has told me to buy the biggest safe I can. I should have known before asking. I'm lucky my wife loves guns. But I complain about all the shit she drags in the house and now I'm going to buy a massive gun safe 
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Its ok to own firearms solely for the purposes of fun and enjoyment.
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Originally Posted By Kalahnikid: Every person here has told me to buy the biggest safe I can. I should have known before asking.  |
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WI, USA
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New question: For those of you that have bought a Zanotti how difficult was it to assemble? At this point you all have convinced me to buy the 6ft Z3 which is the biggest they make. I wonder how heavy each individual piece is? I'm guessing the top and the door are the most difficult. |
Its ok to own firearms solely for the purposes of fun and enjoyment.
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Originally Posted By MartinHewitt: They do have assembly instruction on youtube. They might give you an indication how difficult it is. I watched it but they assembled a smaller version, not the largest one they make. |
Its ok to own firearms solely for the purposes of fun and enjoyment.
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Originally Posted By Kalahnikid: New question: For those of you that have bought a Zanotti how difficult was it to assemble? At this point you all have convinced me to buy the 6ft Z3 which is the biggest they make. I wonder how heavy each individual piece is? I'm guessing the top and the door are the most difficult. The door, on the other hand, is about 20% heavier than the 5' door, and in my opinion one man isn't able to hang it. I asked a friend to come over and, with judicious use of levers, wedges, and dunnage it went in pretty easy. But only because there were 2 people - 1 to stabilize the door in the upright position, and 1 to jack it up. Also, if you are going to anchor it down and/or install feet, do it before installing walls and cut off any extra threads above the nut. I didn't do that and one of the studs protruded high enough to interfere with installation of the pins holding the walls together. And getting an angle grinder into that corner is a stone bitch. And while you are anchoring keep in mind that it is impossible to get the base too level. If the base isn't level the safe will lean, and it's magnified by the extra height. And like the anchors, leveling after wall installation would be a nightmare. ETA: and this thread is starting to convince me I need a 6' Z3. Anyone want a very lightly used 6' Z2, with accessory drawer? |
"As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly." A. Carlson
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Originally Posted By R2point0: I bought the 6' Z2. Walls were pretty straightforward, and I did them mostly myself - my GF helped a bit with trivial stuff but the walls were definitely doable by one person alone. The door, on the other hand, is about 20% heavier than the 5' door, and in my opinion one man isn't able to hang it. I asked a friend to come over and, with judicious use of levers, wedges, and dunnage it went in pretty easy. But only because there were 2 people - 1 to stabilize the door in the upright position, and 1 to jack it up. Also, if you are going to anchor it down and/or install feet, do it before installing walls and cut off any extra threads above the nut. I didn't do that and one of the studs protruded high enough to interfere with installation of the pins holding the walls together. And getting an angle grinder into that corner is a stone bitch. And while you are anchoring keep in mind that it is impossible to get the base too level. If the base isn't level the safe will lean, and it's magnified by the extra height. And like the anchors, leveling after wall installation would be a nightmare. ETA: and this thread is starting to convince me I need a 6' Z3. Anyone want a very lightly used 6' Z2, with accessory drawer? Originally Posted By R2point0: I bought the 6' Z2. Walls were pretty straightforward, and I did them mostly myself - my GF helped a bit with trivial stuff but the walls were definitely doable by one person alone. The door, on the other hand, is about 20% heavier than the 5' door, and in my opinion one man isn't able to hang it. I asked a friend to come over and, with judicious use of levers, wedges, and dunnage it went in pretty easy. But only because there were 2 people - 1 to stabilize the door in the upright position, and 1 to jack it up. Also, if you are going to anchor it down and/or install feet, do it before installing walls and cut off any extra threads above the nut. I didn't do that and one of the studs protruded high enough to interfere with installation of the pins holding the walls together. And getting an angle grinder into that corner is a stone bitch. And while you are anchoring keep in mind that it is impossible to get the base too level. If the base isn't level the safe will lean, and it's magnified by the extra height. And like the anchors, leveling after wall installation would be a nightmare. ETA: and this thread is starting to convince me I need a 6' Z3. Anyone want a very lightly used 6' Z2, with accessory drawer? Thats a great post man, I really appreciate you typing all that out  Originally Posted By Princeton: I’m not sure I’d be putting a safe next to a washing machine. Valid concern. I dont have a lot of options, but I'll consider alternatives. Ive got time to think about it. My gun hobby is mostly funded by my side job and it'll take a while to save up and then wait time after I order. |
Its ok to own firearms solely for the purposes of fun and enjoyment.
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I started a thread a while ago on Zanotti vs. SnapSafe which morphed into an install thread (sort of). https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/Want-to-get-a-modular-safe-SnapSafe-or-Zanotti-/46-545115/ ETA that thread also has a link for a light kit that I bought and installed. I also got a goldenrod for humidity and use large bags of rechargeable silica gel (the basement is a bit wet.) If you are going to install electrical devices in the safe think about the process carefully. Zanotti puts a small hole in the back panel; in my case I had to cut the plug off a multi-outlet extension cord, run it through from the inside out, and put a new cord cap on the end. AFTER I had the safe together. If I do it again I'll run all that stuff as soon as I get the back panel in place. I also installed a thermometer/hygrometer and just ran the probe wire through the door opening.  
They make wifi models with remote alarms if the humidity gets too high, but I don't have any signal down there. |
"As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly." A. Carlson
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I've moved three times now with the Z2 so I've gotten pretty good at putting it together and taking it apart. All the pieces can be put together with one person. Having two people for the door is better but I've done it myself using some 2x4 lumber stacked up to leverage the door up with my foot and using my arms to position the hinge pins. The door needs to be in the open position (about 180 degrees open) to clear the top plate and drop into place. If the final resting place doesn't allow the door to swing that open, you'll have to assemble the safe first and then slide it in place. Other than that, definitely follow their recommendation to use silicone lube on all the plate pins. Makes it easier to disassemble. I upgraded mine with a light kit and a power/USB strip. The light kit I mounted using adhesive magnetic strips so I could reposition later as needed. The hole in the back plate is small so find a power strip with a cord that can detach the plug and thread through the hole. |
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Originally Posted By LonghornAR: I've moved three times now with the Z2 so I've gotten pretty good at putting it together and taking it apart. All the pieces can be put together with one person. Having two people for the door is better but I've done it myself using some 2x4 lumber stacked up to leverage the door up with my foot and using my arms to position the hinge pins. The door needs to be in the open position (about 180 degrees open) to clear the top plate and drop into place. If the final resting place doesn't allow the door to swing that open, you'll have to assemble the safe first and then slide it in place. Other than that, definitely follow their recommendation to use silicone lube on all the plate pins. Makes it easier to disassemble. I upgraded mine with a light kit and a power/USB strip. The light kit I mounted using adhesive magnetic strips so I could reposition later as needed. The hole in the back plate is small so find a power strip with a cord that can detach the plug and thread through the hole. Great advice, thank you I realized where I'm going to put mine is below 2x10 floor joists and I could rig up a pulley to help with the door if I have to. 
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Its ok to own firearms solely for the purposes of fun and enjoyment.
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So a member asked me some questions offline regarding door installation and anchoring/leveling, and the easiest way to explain it was some drawings. I figured I'd post then here as well. The main issue is the door. No hiding it, it's heavy. The member to whom I'm speaking is sort of solo; his wife is available but can't lift or do heavy work. So I tried to lay out how to lift the safe door with one heavy lifter and one helper to steady things and shuffle blocking around. Fair warning, it's an MS Paint sketch and I was in a hurry. Attached File I also wrote: One person should be able to lift the door up onto the blocking. Then it's a matter of rocking the door back and forth to add more blocking underneath, and then "walking" it on the blocking so the pins are above the sockets. At that point you might need a jack under the door to lift it up enough to pull out some of the blocking and then lower it so the hinge pins engage. Another question that needed a sketch was anchoring and leveling. Because one sets the base of a modular safe first, it must be dead level, because small variations get multiplied with the height of the safe. I learned about equipment leveling in the nuclear industry and heavy construction, so here's what I recommended: Attached File And here's the text that went with it: You definitely do not want the safe base directly on the concrete. Concrete absorbs and releases moisture from the air constantly, and it will rust steel in direct contact with it. Anchor bolts are made to withstand that. Regarding the Zanotti warning not to tighten the base down before assembling the walls, the concern is that torquing down the plate will flex it, and then the panels won't align and drop in to their slots and the pins line up. The installation sequence would be as follows: 1) Lay the base directly on the floor where you want the safe. 2) Mark the hole locations on the floor. 3) Remove the base and drill your anchor holes. 4) Set the anchors. You now have 4 studs sticking out of the floor. 5) Test fit the base. If things don't align, use a dremel to open the holes in the base as needed. 6) Remove the base and spin a nut and washer onto each stud. DO NOT spin them all the way down; you need to leave room for a wrench. 7) Rough level the nuts and washers. Just get them close. 8) Put the base on the studs. It will now be resting on the nuts and washers and be roughly level. 9) Finish level the base front to back and side to side by adjusting the nuts underneath. Lift the low corners - dropping the high corners might decrease your wrenching room. 10) When the base is level, install the washer and nut on the top side of the base. Use a lock nut if you wish, but it's doubtful the nuts will come loose. 11) Tighten the top nuts evenly, the RECHECK level. Things may have moved. If they have, loosen and correct. 12) When everything is dead level, snug the nuts *very* lightly. Cut off the studs protruding excessively. I'd say anything over 1/2". This leaves enough to back them off in case the panels aren't fitting and enough to dress the end of the stud with a file. With heavy equipment the gap under the safe would then be packed with non-shrink grout, but the safe isn't *that* heavy. I know this seems complex, but if you are going to anchor the safe down, it's necessary. A few cautions: - The holes in the bottom of the safe are only 3/8" in diameter. 3/8" anchors are borderline strong enough, but you may not be able to get them *long* enough. Opening up the holes to 1/2 might be a good idea. - And they need to be long enough. Longer is better - you can always cut them short, but if they are too short you'll need to pull the anchors out of the concrete. - Don't bother with stainless steel anchors unless you have a water problem. And even then I don't know that I'd do it - they are expensive. Now, if you decide not to anchor it down, you need to use feet. I used these: 
I did the nuts in exactly the same way as I show in the diagram. These are stainless steel, because my basement *is* wet, and their load capacity is plenty high. The ones at the link are sold in pairs and are 8mm, which will fit the holes. I couldn't find the feet in fractional measurements. |
"As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly." A. Carlson
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