User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 1/11/2002 10:07:31 PM EDT
[#1]
For a mil-spec, that is about normal.
For a custom race pistol. I should have no free play and the action should feel like it is sliding on oil glass. The price of the pistol is the Key. The more money that you spent, the better the fit will be, due to a Smith hand fitting the parts together. Most pistols at the top of their build will shoot 1 1/2" groups at 50' or better. I would geuss that yours will shoot less than 5" with the right ammo. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/11/2002 10:23:13 PM EDT
[#2]
What Disappointed me is the display gun at the gun shop had NO NOTICEABLE SLOP at all. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/11/2002 10:36:50 PM EDT
[#3]
Pres,
I have a Federal Ordnance .45 (now out of business) that is as loose as yours and it functions great with surprising accuracy. I also have a Springfield Mil Spec and it is fitted very closely. In fact, a gunsmith thought that I had the slide tightened. As far as accuracy, I'd say they shoot equally well. I wouldn't worry too much about the fit, but if you wanted to, maybe Springfield would tighten it up or it could be done by a local 'smith. Like Dano523 said, that's about right for a mil-spec. coyote3 |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/11/2002 10:58:28 PM EDT
[#4]
Hey I thank you for the input. I figure I will do what everyone else dose. Shot it and spend more money and customize as I go. After all that what I wanted a 1911 for. Wanted a Pistol like my ARs so I can accessorize. I allready have plans of putting a Docter Red dot sight on it. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/11/2002 11:22:06 PM EDT
[#5]
Pres,
Things to add to the pistol. Full lenght recoil rod(one peice). It will smooth up the action. Recoil rod buffers. They keep the side from eating up the frame. Rod is 15.99, buffer's are 6 for 4.99. If your planning of shooting 230 hardball, change out the main spring to a 18lb and the firing spring to a Extra power. If your hand loading to +P, change it out to 20lb. Don't change out the recoil spring to a stronger spring without changing the firing pin spring!!!! It may lead to slam fires!!! |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/12/2002 12:08:48 AM EDT
[#6]
What are Recoil rod buffers and how do they work? Where is a good place to find parts? I would like to find some reading material on How to and what to do for improving the 1911 Any suggestions? |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/12/2002 12:39:21 AM EDT
[#7]
Try www.natchez.com |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/12/2002 12:55:15 AM EDT
[#8]
Did you go here?? handguns.ar15.com/ |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/12/2002 7:48:21 AM EDT
[#9]
correct web address is natchezss.com
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/12/2002 8:29:43 AM EDT
[#10]
... Hold on a second. You stated "... between the muzzle and the frame there is about .025" Slop....
If your have 0.025" slop between the barrel (generally considered the muzzle) and the slide (barrel to bushing or bushing to slide) that is completely unacceptable. You'll probably produce horrible groups. However, a little slide to frame (receiver) slop is not all bad if the 1911 locks into battery the same place each time. You will want to custom fit a barrel bushing or even consider a bull barrel to fit your slide. A "loose" pistol during action is good for reliability. Analogous to small airplane motors and the Avtomat Kalashnikov. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/12/2002 9:30:31 AM EDT
[#11]
The slop is between the slide and the frame. The barrel and barrel bushing are tight. The only other problem I can see with the gun. The hand guard safety by the hammer has some sharp edges and is a little uncomfortable to shoot. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/12/2002 9:39:03 AM EDT
[#12]
Pres,
The buffer pad goes on the recoil rod before you install the spring. They come in a pack of 6, and each one will last 400 to 900 rounds. It prevents the slide from crashing back into the frame. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/12/2002 12:07:06 PM EDT
[#13]
Take a flat file and break the edges of that grip safety. Not too much, though, just enough to remove the skin bite.
A Mil-spec pistol will have some slide/frame slop. If the play is minimal, some shops will peen the frame rails to have a tighter fit with the slide. If the play is excessive, then you might want to look at Accu-Rails. I built my own 1911 from a frame kit and it's tight like the Les Baer custom pistols. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/12/2002 1:13:00 PM EDT
[#14]
The slide to frame fit doesn’t have much to do with accuracy so long as your barrel is locking up tight. Installing a longer link or a Dwyer Group-Gripper MIGHT improve your accuracy.
Tightening up the frame rails isn’t too hard if you’re mechanically inclined and you’re willing to spring for a few tools. However, ruining your slide in the process is also pretty easy. If you’re interested in all the bells and whistles, check out Layne Simpson’s “The Custom Government Model Pistol”. It’s a little dated (copyright 1992) but it has an awesome amount of good info in it. It’s over 600 pages long. If you’re interested in doing any gunsmithing work on a 1911, check out Jerry Kuhnhausen’s “The Colt .45 Automatic”. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
