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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 1/11/2002 8:53:32 PM EST

I just purchased a New Springfield 1911-A1 Mil Spec today. I cleaned the gun and took it to the range, put about 100 rounds thought it. When I got home and was cleaning the gun I notest between the muzzle and the frame there is about .025" Slop from side to side and up and down. I am a little Disappointed my RRA AR-15 doesn't have that much slop. Anyway I know that .025" can't amount to much in accuracy but what is normal for most 1911's?

Link Posted: 1/11/2002 9:07:31 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1/11/2002 9:08:06 PM EST by Dano523]
For a mil-spec, that is about normal.

For a custom race pistol. I should have no free play and the action should feel like it is sliding on oil glass.

The price of the pistol is the Key. The more money that you spent, the better the fit will be, due to a Smith hand fitting the parts together. Most pistols at the top of their build will shoot 1 1/2" groups at 50' or better.

I would geuss that yours will shoot less than 5" with the right ammo.
Link Posted: 1/11/2002 9:23:13 PM EST

What Disappointed me is the display gun at the gun shop had NO NOTICEABLE SLOP at all.
Link Posted: 1/11/2002 9:36:50 PM EST
I have a Federal Ordnance .45 (now out of business) that is as loose as yours and it functions great with surprising accuracy. I also have a Springfield Mil Spec and it is fitted very closely. In fact, a gunsmith thought that I had the slide tightened. As far as accuracy, I'd say they shoot equally well. I wouldn't worry too much about the fit, but if you wanted to, maybe Springfield would tighten it up or it could be done by a local 'smith. Like Dano523 said, that's about right for a mil-spec.

Link Posted: 1/11/2002 9:58:28 PM EST

Hey I thank you for the input.

I figure I will do what everyone else dose.
Shot it and spend more money and customize as I go. After all that what I wanted a 1911 for. Wanted a Pistol like my ARs so I can accessorize. I allready have plans of putting a Docter Red dot sight on it.
Link Posted: 1/11/2002 10:22:06 PM EST
Things to add to the pistol.

Full lenght recoil rod(one peice). It will smooth up the action.
Recoil rod buffers. They keep the side from eating up the frame.

Rod is 15.99, buffer's are 6 for 4.99.

If your planning of shooting 230 hardball, change out the main spring to a 18lb and the firing spring to a Extra power. If your hand loading to +P, change it out to 20lb.

Don't change out the recoil spring to a stronger spring without changing the firing pin spring!!!! It may lead to slam fires!!!

Link Posted: 1/11/2002 11:08:48 PM EST

What are Recoil rod buffers and how do they work?
Where is a good place to find parts?

I would like to find some reading material on How to and what to do for improving the 1911 Any suggestions?
Link Posted: 1/11/2002 11:39:21 PM EST

Originally Posted By Pres:

What are Recoil rod buffers and how do they work?
Where is a good place to find parts?

I would like to find some reading material on How to and what to do for improving the 1911 Any suggestions?

Try www.natchez.com
Link Posted: 1/11/2002 11:55:15 PM EST

Originally Posted By Pres:
I would like to find some reading material on How to and what to do for improving the 1911 Any suggestions?

Did you go here??

Link Posted: 1/12/2002 6:48:21 AM EST
correct web address is natchezss.com
Link Posted: 1/12/2002 7:29:43 AM EST
... Hold on a second. You stated "... between the muzzle and the frame there is about .025" Slop....
If your have 0.025" slop between the barrel (generally considered the muzzle) and the slide (barrel to bushing or bushing to slide) that is completely unacceptable. You'll probably produce horrible groups.
However, a little slide to frame (receiver) slop is not all bad if the 1911 locks into battery the same place each time.
You will want to custom fit a barrel bushing or even consider a bull barrel to fit your slide.
A "loose" pistol during action is good for reliability. Analogous to small airplane motors and the Avtomat Kalashnikov.
Link Posted: 1/12/2002 8:30:31 AM EST

The slop is between the slide and the frame.
The barrel and barrel bushing are tight.

The only other problem I can see with the gun. The hand guard safety by the hammer has some sharp edges and is a little uncomfortable to shoot.
Link Posted: 1/12/2002 8:39:03 AM EST

The buffer pad goes on the recoil rod before you install the spring.
They come in a pack of 6, and each one will last 400 to 900 rounds. It prevents the slide from crashing back into the frame.
Link Posted: 1/12/2002 11:07:06 AM EST
Take a flat file and break the edges of that grip safety. Not too much, though, just enough to remove the skin bite.

A Mil-spec pistol will have some slide/frame slop. If the play is minimal, some shops will peen the frame rails to have a tighter fit with the slide. If the play is excessive, then you might want to look at Accu-Rails.

I built my own 1911 from a frame kit and it's tight like the Les Baer custom pistols.
Link Posted: 1/12/2002 12:13:00 PM EST
The slide to frame fit doesn’t have much to do with accuracy so long as your barrel is locking up tight. Installing a longer link or a Dwyer Group-Gripper MIGHT improve your accuracy.

Tightening up the frame rails isn’t too hard if you’re mechanically inclined and you’re willing to spring for a few tools. However, ruining your slide in the process is also pretty easy.

If you’re interested in all the bells and whistles, check out Layne Simpson’s “The Custom Government Model Pistol”. It’s a little dated (copyright 1992) but it has an awesome amount of good info in it. It’s over 600 pages long.

If you’re interested in doing any gunsmithing work on a 1911, check out Jerry Kuhnhausen’s “The Colt .45 Automatic”.
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