If you're smart and/or thrifty, read on.

If you're not too bright, or wasteful, stop now.

As posted in a couple of other threads, this info is provided for those individuals who wish to use a slightly modified 10-22 as a stand-in trainer (at 25M) for their .30 cal. MBRS, and those who wish to save some SERIOUS money. This is NOT a tack-driving Match rifle, but neither does it cost Match rifle prices. It is plenty accurate to do its' intended job, with the bonus of needing a lot less cleaning than Match-chambered 10-22s.  Note that the 10-22, with Tech Sights closely mimics the manual-of-arms of the M1A, and is  still close to that of the Garand.  Most importantly, the sight picture is identical to that of the M1A, M1, AR, and FAL.  Mods are drop-in, so gunsmithing is zero.

This rifle also makes a great starter rifle when introducing someone to shooting.  The more shooters out there, the more people to stand up for the RKBA right?

It's also a great loaner.  If someone's rifle croaks, or they forget something essential, just hand them the 10-22 and some ammo.  Problem solved.

Some folks may question the 25M training distance.  This distance was formerly called the 'Thousand Inch" range, and was used by the US military for decades as a primary training range, with .22LR, back when marksmanship was emphasized.  Everything learned on the 25m range WILL translate directly when shooting at longer ranges.  The secret is to simply reduce the size of the target.  A 1" square at 25M represents the same MOA as a 4" square at 100M.

If you usually shoot a FAL, AR, or other rifle that has a pistol grip, may I suggest a Butler Creek stainless steel aftermarket folder stock?  Before you buy the BC, try the standard Ruger synthetic stock.  Studies have shown that basic marksmanship, sight picture, and trigger feel/pull are way more important than the stock configuration.  Still, if you must have a pistol grip, the BS is one sturdy unit, and reasonably priced.  Put a length of grey closed-cell foam pipe insulation over the metal part of the buttstock to make things easier on your cheek.

First of all, you should shoot your stock 10-22 a good bit to make sure there are no problems present that would require you to send the thing back for warranty service. DO NOT modify your rifle until you are certain that it runs properly.  Use the OEM mags while doing this, maybe trying out some others.

Very likely there will be no problems, but in doing all this shooting you should be trying out as many different types of ammo as possible to see which one(s) your rifle prefers.
I have had good luck with CCI Blaser ammo, and a post on www.rimfirecentral.com ranks it highly in terms of consistency. No telling what your rifle will like.

I urge you to not succumb to the idea of instantly accessorizing the rifle. You will be spending money blindly without a good idea of what you, and your rifle, really need.

Most likely, unless you are a good shooter (can consistently shoot groups an inch or under at 25M from prone, NOT benched), the rifle will shoot better, AS-IS, than you can, assuming you find an ammo it likes.

Keep in mind that many aftermarket barrels are Match-chambered, which will prove to be problematic with some types of ammo, and WILL require frequent cleaning, especially of the chamber. Ruger says to clean after 50 rds on their Match-chambered bull-barreled version, else functioning and accuracy problems will crop up. I would expect the same of other Match-chambered barrels. Another fact to keep in mind when purchasing a 10-22 is that ALL standard 10-22 component parts are available directly from Ruger (save, of course, the FFL-only receiver). NOT SO the Ruger Match 10-22s. Some parts are factory-fitted only, so consider this when planning your purchase.

Your rifle will like some aftermarket mags, and dislike others. I have used Butler Creek Steel Lips 25-rd mags with no problems. YMMV. Anything longer will be problematic in prone position. Hopefully your rifle will like a mag that fits some mfr's mag-loading device. These little contraptions are worth their weight in gold in time saved and fumbling avoided.  The less time spent on chores like loading mags, the more spent on important stuff, like training.  You should get one if only to avoid lead contamination on your fingers.  Don't laugh––I know of a couple long-time lead bullet, indoor shooters who were diagnosed with incipient lead poisoning.

If all aftermarket mags fail, a couple of OEM Ruger 10-rd mags clipped together bottom-to-bottom with a device made by E&L Manufacturing will always prove utterly reliable. Whatever you do, do this. This will prove to be your "can't fail" mag assy. Some folks use only this set-up.

Have a glance at this thread (which started this whole concept):http://appleseedinfo.org/smf/index.php?topic=8659.0 (you might have to register to view). It contains all the info on 10-22 mods you are likely to need, unless you really want a dedicated Match rifle (most likely you don't). While you're at it, look at www.appleseedinfo.org/smf. These are the Appleseed folks you might have heard about, and on the  site can be found very detailed and full instructions on becoming a Rifleman.
Frankly, there are lots of people who pay good money to learn what these folks offer for free on their site, and I STRONGLY urge you (and others) to read, practice, and learn.  What with the current ammo shortage, a LOT of folks are turning up at Appleseeds with .22s.

FWIW, I use my 10-22 (slightly modified–– maybe $60 total, exclusive of mags and loader) for about 75% of my training, with a once-a-month MBR workout at distance. HUGE savings on ammo cost, and wear and tear on my MBRs. What you learn at 25M works out perfectly at 200M and beyond. BTDT, and it WORKS! Fundamentals work out at both 25M and 500M. I made Rifleman (229/250) with it after practicing A LOT, and no reason why you or anyone else can't do the same. FYI, sighting-in your 10-22 at 25M means you are also sighted-in at 100M. Cool, Huh?

Folks, why waste scarce and expensive 7.62 ammo when the same training (and learning) can be done with a .22LR at 25 M?

You can do most all of your training  for less than you can reload, for heaven's sake!

The Tech-sights are definitely the way to go for any iron-sighted 10-22 or SKS. Mostly I use a 1-3X Weaver scope I bought for $10 at a flea market. When the Scout scope mount for the 10-22 becomes available later this year, then I will switch over to that.

I use a GI web sling, as my 10-22 is set up as a training stand-in for my MBRs which also use a GI sling. I simply bought a 1-1/4" QD sling swivel kit made by Uncle Mike's which has both machine-screw and wood-screw type studs. Your kit may differ if you have a different stock.

The GI web sling is inexpensive and very versatile, being useable in all shooting positions with a minimum of fuss, bother, and expense.  You want either the cotton M1 sling, or better still, the nylon M-14 sling.  Both have quick-detach hooks on the butt end of the sling.

On the fore-end of my synthetic-stocked 10-22, I used a machine-screw threaded stud, washer, and nylock nut due to the thin plastic of the fore-end. On a presumeably thicker wooden fore-end, a wood-screw type stud would be fine assuming that enough wood was available for acceptable thread engagement, and that the screw was not too long so as to hit the barrel. You can trim the screw, but I would not use a wood-type screw whose thread's engagement were 1/2" or less. If the fore-end of the stock is really thin, use a machine-screw stud, big washer, and nylock nut. On the buttstock of either model of stock a wood-type screw will do, although it is a good idea to pack a bit of epoxy plumber's putty around the portion of the screw which protrudes into the interior of the synthetic stock both to reinforce the screw's exposed threads and thus enhancing its' grip, and also to prevent the screw tip from puncturing the baggies containing the goodies stored within the hollow stock. The buttplate on the Ruger stocks is glued on; just carefully pry it off (using a couple of wide-bladed screwdrivers) to access inside of stock. More on this below.

What I did to my OEM SS synthetic stocked Ruger 10-22:

Recall that my goal was to create an acceptable stand-in for my MBRs which I could use for 25M training at much reduced ammo expense, with no gunsmithing, and at the least overall cost. YMMV.

1) Installed Volquartsen Hammer kit plus extended mag release. Note that there some issues with the  Volquartsen trigger return spring, IIRC–– use OEM Ruger for complete reliability.   The link above discusses possible issues with the Volquartsen-supplied kit.  I installed as per advice in link, and no problems. The trigger is clean, crisp, and has a pull weight very close to that of my MBRs (whose triggers have also been cleaned up and reduced a bit in pull weight). Exactly what I wanted.

2)Installed auto-bolt release. Saves a LOT of fumbling, and helps replicate the MBR. Wish there was an auto bolt hold-open device that was reliable, sturdy, and didn't require either special or modified mags, but maybe someday...

3) Installed 1-1/4" sling swivels and studs as mentioned above, plus GI web sling. Again, this was to replicate the set-up on the MBRs.

4)Seperated glued-on OEM buttplate (still use it, just now it's unglued) from stock so I could stuff the hollow stock with baggied spare parts (bought a few firing pins, extractors, and various other springs and etc. from Ruger), plus an emergency, modified M-16 cleaning kit. The rifle now has, self-contained, anything it is likely to ever need to repair it in the unlikely event that it malfunctions. A little weight in the butt shifts the Center of Balance to the rear, making the whole assembly a tad livelier feeling. I could have re-secured the OEM buttplate with SS screws, but as I wanted a bit longer Length Of Pull, I installed a Pachmayr slip-on buttpad to both lengthen the LOP and secure the OEM buttplate. I used a .45 ACP shell to cut out a nice, round, tear-free hole in the slip-on butt pad for the sling stud which would otherwise have been covered by the slip-on buttpad.

5)While breaking-in, ammo evaluating, and practicing last winter (yes, I shot outdoors during Jan and Feb; I knew I had to practice for the upcoming Appleseed), I noticed that the OEM bolt handle was way too small for gloved or mittened hands. Solution was/is to buy a bolt handle assy for a 12-22 MAGNUM rifle from Ruger, and swap out just the handle part whilst keeping all other 10-22LR parts unaltered. A fairly simple job, but pay attention in keeping the various parts separate. You want to use the 10-22Mag bolt handle ONLY, while retaining the 10-22 rod and spring. Result works flawlessly and is closer to MBR size than was the OEM part.  Works great with bare hands and/or gloves, and is close to the MiA/M1 bolt handle.

6) Installed TechSights iron sights on the rifle. Simply the ONLY way to go. Front sight accepts all AR-style posts, and the rear base with stock A1 AR-style aperture will accept any AR-style flip apertute and is also configurable to suit the operator. Mimics the OEM sight picture on the AR/M1/M1A/FAL, and is of top-notch quality. Installed on-hand conventional scope and rings, plus QD cheek riser to compensate for height of scope over OEM iron sights.

7) Installed RamLine vented rear handguard over barrel. Nothing functional here, but it does look better and the operator's hand cannot contact a potentially hot barrel.

8) Last but not least. I shot a brick through the rifle as de-lubed as possible and without cleaning. After complete teardown, I carefully filed/sanded/stoned any high spots I could find on the reciprocating and static parts that showed wear/rubbing/interferance marks, and also filed/sanded/stoned/ relieved any other areas that I could find that seemed to have any rough surfaces that might affect function.. Whole "smoothing-out" process might have taken a half hour from beginning of tear-down to re-assembled state. Just a few spots to touch up, and I was done. YMMV.  Mostly used a fine sanding disc on a Dremel, and a couple of fine jeweler's files.  If you don't have such, some fine sandpaper will do.

9) To-do list: Butler Creek SS folding stock to replicate AR/FAL pistol grip configuration, and Scout scoping the rifle when SS mount becomes available.

Now I realize that all this seems a bit much, but most of the mods were drop-in, and the rest very straightforward. Remember, though, that I wanted a stand-in trainer for my MBRs that had the feel and functioning that the MBRs had. Insofar as technically possible, I have succeeded, and my tweaked 10-22 has, since purchased, not only paid for itself but also all other accessory purchases in ammo costs saved. I am now on the plus side of the equation, with NO training foregone, and wear and tear on my MBRS much reduced, to say nothing of the savings on now expensive .308 ammo. Your purposes may be different, and so your tweaks and mods may be different. Good luck, and please remember to read the links I gave above FULLY.

Addendum:

It's now July, and everything I said above has still proven true.  This is a good deal, guys, IF YOU'RE SMART.

I have come to think of the Boresnake as a nearly ideal cleaning device for the 10-22. Easy, cheap, simple and no damage to the critical muzzle.

Oh, one other thing: My failure to max out the Appleseed I attended was my fault, and in NO way that of the rifle, ammo used, or any of the tweaks I had done. YMMV.

Disclaimer: NO financial interest in any of the companies mentioned above.
I don't own any stock in them, and have never gotten any free samples from anyone.

Originally Posted By Mach1: Thanks for the info. The .22 rifle (and pistol) are invaluable tools. I never tire of shooting them. Question: How did you separate the buttplate from the OEM plastic stock? Did you just pry it off? Use a Dremel tool? Thanks.

Glad you liked the post.  Just carefully pry off the buttplate with a thin but wide-bladed screwdriver.  IIRC, I started prying near the top (heel) of the stock.

Originally Posted By TxLewis: www.rwva.org/yabbse/index.php?topic=1149.0 Looks like you have to register to go directly to the link, but if you go home, I think you can get there. TXL BTW, thanks for the post RAF,  now, learn to hotlink, you're Site Staff for goodness sakes!

Sorry, my bad.

Originally Posted By Mach1: I'm not finding that link Is it something that can be cut and pasted here?

It's there.  Maybe as said above, you have to register to see it.  It's a multi-page thread, so C+P would be as hassle.

Sorry, no pix.  But, after all, this thread is about what will suit you, not me or somebody else.  Read, think on it, and go for what suits YOUR needs.

Glad you liked it, rob.

Originally Posted By monkeyman: Just a suggestion. I have all kinds of magazines for my 10/22s including the Butler Creek mags. I even have some old Ramline hi cap mags from the 1980s. For target shooting however, I find the Eagle 10 round mags work well. They are easier to insert and take out than the factory mags and are more compact than the hi cap mags. They are also reliable, fairly cheap, and they clip together.  Eagle makes 30 round mags that sometimes work, but I've found the 10 rounders to be very reliable and easy to use at the range. img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/mac66/ruger_10_22_10_round_2_pack.jpg

Thanks for the suggestion.  10-22s seem to be a little individualistic on what mags work best with a particular rifle, so try a few different quality mags, get what works, and return the others.  Find a vendor that offers a WIDE variety of quality mags, so if you must return a certain type, you can exchange them for another type.

One thing to keep in mind is that if you're traveling to a State that limits mag capacity, you should have at least 3 of those mags to take with you.  Pre-test them all, of course. Note that Ruger 10-22 factory mags come in both 10-rd and 5-rd capacity, and are certain to work.  Obviously, if you're hunting, you'll ascertain and follow the laws of the place where you're hunting, thus the 5-rd mags purpose. While any of the OEM mags can be coupled together at the base with a coupler sold by E&L Manufacturing, it is just possible that such an ensemble might not pass legal muster in some locales, despite its' being a temporary, reversible-without-tools device.  Paranoid?  Maybe. But it's a LOT cheaper being a little paranoid than having to hire a lawyer after you're busted for violating some State's peculiar law. While the 10-rd mags still suffice for most States, some States may ban them, so the 5-rd mags might come in handy for those locales.

Originally Posted By C-S: Yeah I am glad someone is thinking what I have been thinking... My buddy argues that getting a 10/22 would be pointless... but I can't afford .223 and 7.62 as often as I'd like to shoot... And practice is practice... he thinks shooting a 10/22 would'nt build up skills at all vs. an AK or an AR... but I beg to differ... I think shooting a 10/22 with the proper set up can prove to be very good at developing skills with rifles. I am actually going to use it not only for long range skill developement but also for one shot tactical shooting... since the recoil factor would'nt allow me to simulate re-aquisition of targets... but we have a small course we made ourselves in the feild... and im gonna have one 10/22 to mimic the style of shooting my AR carbine and my AK and just fire one shot into each of the targets... and I will get another 10/22 to practive long range with. Not the best simulation but better then nothing without putting holes in my wallet.

With the exception of range estimation, and, to an extent, making windage adjustments, at 25M you can learn and practice about 90% (maybe more) of the skills you will need to develop at all ranges, long ranges included.  The fundamentals don't change, regardless of the range.

Originally Posted By yankee56: Well, I don't have a 10/22 but I do have a conversion unit for my AR15 and 1911.  The advantage being that I'm using the same controls and firearm, only the caliber and recoil is different.  I generally shoot at 25yrds with them.  I also have some of Fred's 25yard mil type targets.  Shooting at the 400 yard silhouette is a real challenge.  I think I've shot more .22lr in the past few months that I have in the last 10 years.

Bench each .22LR conversion, and see if you can shoot into an inch at 25M.  If not, then either switch ammo, or maybe consider something else for training,  My experience with ciener converters on both the AR and Mini-14 was that, at best, they were slightly inferior in accuracy to a stock 10-22.  I also had the advantage of a near-optimum 1-12" rate of twist on the AR, and a good 1-10" ROT on the AR.

Your idea is a good one, as long as you are OK with the group that your converted firearms are capable of attaining.  Some do better than others, and it is always wise to try lots of different .22LR ammo types in each .22LR firearm.  I've shot ammo that gave a 3" group at 25M, and some where all shots touched.  As long as you are shooting (from position) close to what the benched firearm is capable of grouping, you are doing well.

That example looks like it will do the job all right.

I bought a FS for the same reasons that you did, but ultimately left it off as I am surrounded by States that have problems with that sort of thing.  As I practice in matches within those States, or must pass through them to other matches further away, I decided that it might be best to avoid any possible complications and not mount the FS.  Hopefully you do not share these problems.

Originally Posted By Accountant30339: Originally Posted By raf: 6) Installed TechSights iron sights on the rifle. Simply the ONLY way to go. Front sight accepts all AR-style posts, and the rear base with stock A1 AR-style aperture will accept any AR-style flip apertute and is also configurable to suit the operator. Mimics the OEM sight picture on the AR/M1/M1A/FAL, and is of top-notch quality. Installed on-hand conventional scope and rings, plus QD cheek riser to compensate for height of scope over OEM iron sights. Raf, How did you mount the scope on top of the TechSights? Thank you, Accountant

I did not do so.  Right now, with the Scout scope mount in the offing, it is an either-or affair with the TechSights and the conventional scope.  One could mount both the TechSights and a conventional scope, but the Scout scope mount will eliminate the hassle of doing so, so why bother?

Once the Scout scope mount becomes available, both it and the TechSights go on for good.

Originally Posted By EndofGoogle: Originally Posted By raf: Originally Posted By Accountant30339: Originally Posted By raf: 6) Installed TechSights iron sights on the rifle. Simply the ONLY way to go. Front sight accepts all AR-style posts, and the rear base with stock A1 AR-style aperture will accept any AR-style flip apertute and is also configurable to suit the operator. Mimics the OEM sight picture on the AR/M1/M1A/FAL, and is of top-notch quality. Installed on-hand conventional scope and rings, plus QD cheek riser to compensate for height of scope over OEM iron sights. Raf, How did you mount the scope on top of the TechSights? Thank you, Accountant I did not do so.  Right now, with the Scout scope mount in the offing, it is an either-or affair with the TechSights and the conventional scope.  One could mount both the TechSights and a conventional scope, but the Scout scope mount will eliminate the hassle of doing so, so why bother? Once the Scout scope mount becomes available, both it and the TechSights go on for good. what kind of scout scope are you referring  to? Is there a mount that attaches to the original rear-sight dovetail on the factory barrel?

The (hopefully) forthcoming Scout Scope mount will go where all Scout scope mounts are mounted; that is, immediately forward of the receiver/barrel interface.  How it will be attached I don't know, but certainly the OEM rear sight will not be useable.  I'll then be using a TechSight setup for irons.

With Techsights for irons, and a Burris scope mounted in Leupold QRW rings, it'll be a sweet set-up, and a lot like that on my MBRs.

Part of the big picture on this is to configure your Trainer to be as much like your own MBR as possible.  The fewer the differences between the two, the easier and quicker the transition will be between one and another.  Most people agree that the important items are sight system/picture and trigger feel, with the actual style of stock somewhat less important.  YMMV about the stock style, but IMHO the sights and trigger do seem to need to be fairly close, and the closer the better.

Originally Posted By EndofGoogle: Who's making this mount though?

Don't remember who told me that they had one in prototype stage, with production starting in the Fall--was either Ultimak or AmengaRanges-- both of whom make good products.

Originally Posted By Crowkiller: Two cheap quick  options or scout scope mounts are 1) scope rail installed backwards,using the front two mounting holes. Good for a light red dot. 2) An after market barrel with the volquartsen barrel mounted base. I believe you can set this one up backwards as well or more eye relief. Of course, then you have to figure out a front sight.....

Yep, there's more than one way to skin a cat.  The reversed OEM rail can have its' unused two mounting holes tapped for allen head set screws for forward support.  Should be steady enough for range use.

Can't say much about the VQ base, but looks like the same idea might apply.

Originally Posted By dogbert4-1: I actually like the new tapco stock setup.  I have the Tech Sights on mine, but I didn't like the small peep sight hole so I bored it out to more of a ghost sight ring size.  Makes it a lot quicker. I have a cheapo extended mag release, and I can put on my Comp M or Eotech on it with ease utilizing the Tapco forarm picatinny rail. With this setup, it really closely mimicks both the AR and my Sig 556.   Mine likes Remington Viper 22s best.

Remember that in the Techsight, both the front sight post and rear sight flip aperture are stock AR parts.  Pretty much any front sight post or rear sight aperture that will fit a stock AR's sights can be retrofitted to the TechSights.  You can bore out the rear aperture like the poster above did, or substitute an entirely different aperture or front sight post if you wish.

Originally Posted By Leatherneck556: So I know pretty much nothing about 10/22s.  My mom has one, and I'm really interested in getting my own and tweaking it to mimic an M1A for training.  What do I need to know about 10/22s (like disassembly, parts, cleaning, action, etc) to get started in 'em?  Is there a link someone can provide me with?  Thanks.

Read my post at the very beginning of this thread.  It contains a lot of detailed info on how I modified my 10-22.  I selected mods that would help the 10-22 mimic the M1A/Garand, so your mods would likely be similar.
For a lot more info, try this thread:appleseedinfo.org/smf/index.php?topic=32.0.  You will probably have to register at the site which is www.appleseedinfo.org/smf to view the thread, but the long thread contains info from a wide range of users and is very much worth reading.  It also contains links to very detailed threads on 10-22 maintenance, cleaning, and magazine selection.
You can also go to www.rimfirecentral.com and look up the 10-22 forums there.  They also have some interesting FAQs on .22LR ammo and much more.

Originally Posted By Leatherneck556: So Christmas is over and I've secured myself a LTR: i130.photobucket.com/albums/p262/Leatherneck556/LTR.jpg Standard 18" 10/22 Carbine with barrel band.  Mods include: -Volquartsen Auto Bolt Release -Volquartsen Hammer Pack Kit -Bell & Carlson Mag Release -Tech Sights TSR100 (As pretty much all training is done at 25m, there's not much reason to adjust elevation quickly) -Uncle Mike's Sling Swivels with a black USGI sling. I also bought some Steel Lips mags and now have only two remaining issues: I need to acquire a rear sight blank somewhere so I can remove the stock rear sight, which is now useless and look a little ridiculous, and I need to fix the front sight.  Due to some... uhh... complications in the installation of the TSR front sight (I have a thread about it in this forum), it is coming loose and obviously won't hold zero.  It was shooting really tight groups (just over 1" from 50 yards in a vice with Remington bulk ammo) before it started coming loose, so I'm otherwise very satisfied. I've not been doing much scaled-down 25m practice, but I've been working a lot on snapshots at 25 and 50.  I'm getting pretty decent, but I've still got some work to do.

Brownell's sells sight dovetail blanks (and I suppose Midway as well), but fitting them is a tedious chore.  You might want to just install a handguard offered by Ramline, Choate, and others that goes over the barrel and more-or-less hides the OEM rear sight.  The sight is still capable of being flipped up and used, but it's tucked away and not obtrusive.

As to your other problem, I'll try to find your thread and offer any help I can.

Originally Posted By Chucker45: Originally Posted By raf: 9) To-do list: Butler Creek SS folding stock to replicate AR/FAL pistol grip configuration, and Scout scoping the rifle when SS mount becomes available. FWIW: I was just at a sporting goods store and check out 3 different BC folding stocks. They displayed a wide difference in fit (craftsmanship)   One of them wobbled VERY badly when locked in the extended position (both side to side... but really bad up and down).  The second unit was decent, very slight wobble.  The third locked up tight. Based on what I saw, I'd suggest buying your BC stock from a place where you can pick through a few to get the best sample of the bunch.

Good advice: it's always better to try before you fly.  In this specific instance, the problem with the stocks you examined could be as simple as a misadjustment of the locking mechanism.  If so, that's pretty easy to fix, as in using an allen wrench to adjust the thing.  Maybe a minute or so of fiddlin to get it just so.

Just guessing, and haven't examined the ones you're referring to, but I noticed the same thing on mine and fixed 'er up pretty quick.

Originally Posted By nhsport:          I love my 10/22 for what it is (and can be) but for some real training the Ceiner is really a better solution. If you have a AR the cost is cheeper and mags and sights are much better.          Yes I know they are about impossible to find but sooner or later Ceiner will pop his head out of whatever he has it stuck in and decide to make some. Possibly some other mfg will get on the bandwagon and start kicking out something that works.           The Ceiner works well,is about as close to shooting a "real"  AR as you can get without breaking out the xm193 and all the sights and control are in the right place. Any add on parts you buy (scopes,red dots,grips ,slings,ect) do double duty as they will work with the 5.56 or the 22 ammo

The Ciener is a good bit of kit ( I have two), but remember, not every one owns an AR, and some people can use a 10-22 as a stand-in trainer for their M1A-type rifles better than any other platform I can think of.  

Originally Posted By RABIDFOX50: Possibly some other mfg will get on the bandwagon and start kicking out something that works. Spike's Tactical in the Industry forum has done just that. Dedicated .22LR upper for the AR platform and a drop in bolt kit. They use Black Dog 27rnd mags. Very nice setup. So much so that I'm selling one of my 10/22s and getting the Spike's setup.

I don't know much about this relatively new platform, but if it works well, then that is another alternative for AR folks.

Whatever trainer you settle on, the main point is NOT to plink, but to train intelligently and with a goal of becoming a more-skilled shooter.

The platform, as long as it allows you to do reasonably accurate shooting, is not the main thing.  After all, 4 MOA is the Rifleman standard, and that is usually attainable without going anywhere near Match rifle prices.

The point is to train, and train intelligently.  Do you want to simply plink for cheap, or do you want your time spent to become a Rifleman?

I've always enjoyed hitting more than missing, so I went the Rifleman route.  YMMV.