I must admit, I love the Benelli Super 90 series. Not only are the Tacti-cool but they are monotonously reliable. That being said, I hate the length of pull of the factory stocks. I swear that the LOP was designed for chimpanzees. Though I am a novice, I would not let that deny me. My shortened stock was originally from a Benelli M3 that has since been sold. The buyer wanted a factory stock so I was forced to buy another factory atock and I kept the modified short stock.
When I originally posted my chopped stock, no one paid notice.
It wasn’t until recently, when I posted pictures of my stock with my 14” entry gun that I received a few inquiries.
I decided to post some pictures and plans of my conversion.
Things you will need:
5/32 Drill bit
Drill
Marine Tex (color doesn’t matter)
Masking tape (blue and Beige)
Belt Sander
Dremel
Cutoff wheel
Grinding wheel
Saran Wrap
Sanding block
60 Grit Sandpaper
100 Grit Sandpaper (or finer)
Limb Saver Grind to fit recoil pad (make sure to get the small size)
1. Determine your desired length of pull. I used An AR-15 lower with collapsible stock to determine my desired LOP. You can use blue masking tape to demarcate this line. Go ahead and be generous in the application of this masking tape. You will need some extra layers to protect the stock when you fit the recoil pad.
2. Apply another layer of beige masking tape approx. ¼ - ½ behind the desired length of pull. Use the beige masking tape as a cutting guide. Make sure you leave enough material between the initial cut and the desired length of pull. This is important as you will use the belt sander to smooth the uneven cut you will make in step 3.
3. I used a cutoff wheel on my Dremel to make the initial cut on the stock. Any cutting tool will work; i.e. band saw, table saw, hack saw etc. etc. Heck, feel free to use any other cutting tool that you want to remove the bulk of the material. We will use the belt sander to grind down and get reasonably close to the desired length of pull.
4. Using your belt sander, grind down the uneven cut made in Step 3. Keep in mind the angle of your cut and try to keep the drop as close to factory as you can. I used the factory recoil pad as a guide to keep the drop angle as close to factory as possible. As you get close to the blue layer of masking tape, be patient! Check your work constantly by placing the stock on a level surface and verify that you are grinding the stock down evenly. Any cheap bubble level should work. NOTE: The bubble level should be even when it is running port and starboard. Not north and south. See illustration
5. Once you verify that your desired length of pull is even and duplicates the factory drop, we are ready to apply the Marine-Tex. Use your trusty Dremel and a grinding wheel to roughen the upper and lower portions of the surface of the interior of the stock. This gives the Marine-Tex extra holding power.
6. Mix enough Marine-Tex to fill both the lower and upper portions of the interior of the factory stock. Marine-Tex is pretty thick and maintains a paste like consistency. Keep in mind the middle must remain open to facilitate the removal and attachment of the stock.
7. Use the Saran Wrap between the small grind to fit recoil pad and the factory stock. Stand the stock up on the recoil pad so that the Marine-Tex will fill in flatly. A hair dryer helps speed up the curing process. The end result will look like this, (just not as smooth):
8. Once the Marine-Tex is dried, verify that the stock is still even. Refer to the illustration is Step 4. If it is not even, use your sanding block with 60 grit sandpaper to flatten the rear portion of the stock. Finish with 100 or 150 grit sandpaper to get it smooth. Once it is completely flat and level you are ready for the next step.
9. Place the grind to fit recoil pad on the stock. Use a punch or screwdriver to demarcate the holes for the stock screws.
10. Find the two markings for the stock screws in the Marine-Tex. Using a 5/32 drill bit, drill through these two markings in the Marine-Tex. Try to keep your drill as straight as possible.
11. Place a screw into one of the holes. Use your drill to drive the screw through the hole. The screw will self tap making removal a snap. Repeat for the other hole.
12. Now attach the grind to fit recoil to the stock using the factory screws.
13. If your layer of blue masking tape is gone now is the time to add a couple more layers.
14. Use your belt sander to grind down the recoil pad. The blue masking tape will keep the belt sander from biting into the stock while you grind down the pad.
15. Once the desired profile is reached, remove all blue masking tape and the recoil pad.
16. Put the stock back on your gun and enjoy!
I am just a hobbyist so please proceed at your own risk. I am sure these methods can be used for any polymer shotun stock.