First off I am only 15 so bear with me.  I've had my Bushy XM15E2S for about a year now but I'm still doubting if I fully understand the 25 meter zeroing procedures correctly.  My main misunderstanding is about this step (A2 sight system):

"If you are zeroing on a 25-meter range, the rear sights elevation knob is adjusted to the 300-meter mark plus one click up."

I believe ive done it corectly but I am not absolutely sure.  
-Should my rear sight be on its last possible click in the direction I have moved it (it won't click further in that direction)?

-Does a 300-meter shot require my elevation knob to be placed one more click down to the actual 300-meter mark on the wheel?

-If I have done everything correct and I take a POA at my desired POI (slight 6 o'clock hold as militaries teach) at 100 meters how high should my bullet strike?

I do not wish to place optics on this upper and if you have a better zeroing procedure that could be simplified for me that would be greatly appreciated.

Yes that is the 'standard' Army way.


Depends on how your rear sight is set up.


It requires the sight to be set to the 300 meter mark. 8/3


Military DOES NOT teach a 6 0'clock hold.  That is for the 'gun games' of High Power competition.  Military teaches a 'center of mass' hold where the top of the front sight bisects (cuts in half) your target.


If you followed the US Army instructions, and use a COM (center-of-mass) hold.  The round will be roughly 6" high at 100m (and still rising).

This is why so few of us actually use the Military zeroing (because they screwed it up).  If you actually set the elevation wheel to 3 (for 300m) you'll find you're VERY high.



If you have a 20" barrel you'll get a proper calibration if you set the rear sight to '4' + 2 clicks when zeroing at 25yards (since most of us don't have 25M ranges).  If you've got a carbine then set the rear sight to '4' for zeroing at 25 yards.


There is a better procedure (and it actually calibrates the elevation wheel properly) but it takes a bit more effort.  see it here: [url]http://groups.msn.com/TheMarylandAR15ShootersSite/improvedbattlesightzero.msnw[/url]

You can find a lot of information on zeroing (variety of methods) including graphs comparing their bullet trajectories here: [url]http://groups.msn.com/TheMarylandAR15shootersSite/zeroingmethods.msnw[/url]

Thanks for setting me straight about the 6 o'clock hold thing.  I guess the books I read about 'gun games' fostered a misconception.  I do have a 16" carbine and my range has berms set at 25m, 50m, and 100m.  Thanks for the links and the info.

Use the IBZ method.  It does require you to adjust your rear sight 2 clicks down from 8/3 though.  After that you sight in at 50 yards with the rear sight at minus 2 clicks down from 8/3.  It sounds complicated in the procedure but I assure you it isn't and you will have a better "zero"

This is what I just used to sight in a new 16" upper I got for my Bushy and it works great.

You'll end up being right on at 50 yards, slightly high (2 inches) at 100 yards and back at center, or slightly low, at 200 yards.  Basically the ballistic arc has common points at 50 and 200 yards.  This is my understanding of it at least.  They explain it better in the "IBZ" procedural documentation so consult that for specifics.