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Posted: 3/2/2011 10:53:05 AM EST
Received a CAR for a hand guard change out from a standard to a free float.
Everything came off but the barrel nut.
I used the proper nut wrench, penetrating oil, warmed the nut with a torch and finally to get a better bite with the wrench I cut off the Delta ring and spring.
With my last attempt I stripped off 3 teeth with the nut wrench.

Any suggestions before I resort to cutting the nut off? Although I'm currently making a greatly extended deep well tool to use an air powered impact wrench.

I should have just convinced him to buy a new upper to add to his collection.
Link Posted: 3/2/2011 10:58:00 AM EST
Ask Falarak.
Link Posted: 3/2/2011 11:04:58 AM EST
Link Posted: 3/2/2011 11:09:29 AM EST
Since you already have damaged teeth, carefully cut the nut off.
Link Posted: 3/2/2011 11:15:18 AM EST
At least the PRI tool has 5 pins instead of the three on my wrench. that would have distributed the force a little more evenly.
The super deep well socket I'm fabricating will have 4 but with the stripped teeth on the nut I may need 6 to keep from slipping.
Link Posted: 3/2/2011 1:14:39 PM EST
Put it in the freezer overnight, then heat just the nut with a torch. You can use a good quality pipe wrench or vise-grip chain wrench to break it free.

Works every time for me!
Link Posted: 3/2/2011 7:59:36 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/2/2011 7:59:48 PM EST by Dano523]
Link Posted: 3/3/2011 8:27:34 AM EST
Originally Posted By Dano523:
If you use a gear patten type wrench, you wouldn't have stripped any teeth off.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=24190/Product/AR_15_M16_AR_STYLE__308_ARMORERS_WRENCH

Also, you do not want to go past 80lbs of torque removing the barrel nut or you will bend or crack the upper receiver barrel socket off the receiver (read impact wrench is out).

At this point, the barrel nut is toasted, so do what you want to get it off, then switch over to the star embedded wrench for future projects.


As for castle nuts on telescoping stocks, you will find that a double point wrench works much better than single point one, and will not mar the slots in the castle nut.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=23305/Product/AR_15_M16_M4_AR_STYLE_STOCK_NUT_WRENCH


I have both and the PRI wrench kicks the Smith Enterprise wrench's ass. I have removed three nuts with the PRI wrench that the Smith Enterprise wrench would not budge.

Link Posted: 3/3/2011 11:12:05 AM EST
Link Posted: 3/3/2011 12:55:21 PM EST
Dano523:
The PRI wrench has to be tapped into place on the barrel nut so it becomes attached to the barrel nut and does not slip at all when you torque it. The socket holes on the PRI wrench are aligned with the axis of the barrel nut—the Smith Enterprise wrench socket hole is off set. This makes a huge difference in the actual leverage you can put on the wrench. Since I bought the PRI wrench I have not found a barrel nut that I could not get off with a good wack of a ball peen to break the connection and a little torgue on the wrench
Link Posted: 3/3/2011 2:26:39 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/3/2011 2:28:45 PM EST by Dano523]
Link Posted: 3/4/2011 4:10:22 AM EST
Originally Posted By Dano523:
Don't get me wrong, I like the PRI 5 prong piece for tube type barrel nuts, since it give a 5 point contact to the nut holes over most two point designs, but just have found that the gear type wrench works great without leaving behind any marks/spine marring. Plus, since the gear type wrenches do not need a extra torque or break bar attached to them, quicker/more rigid to use to pull barrel nuts as well. As a mater of fact, once you have gotten to the point of knowing what 80lbs feel like so you don't go past it, don't need the torque wrench/breaker bar to install the barrel nut correctly as well(single tool instead of having to use two).


So, I'm not saying that you are wrong, but have found that I have yet to mar any barrel nut spines with a gear socket type wrench, and find it faster to use since it's just a single tool that I have to grab, and not dig out a torque wrench or breaker bar to use with it (come from the school of the KISS (keep it simply stupid) method).


I agree with that, I am talking about locked down, probably over-torqued, barrel nuts.
Link Posted: 3/17/2011 4:42:27 AM EST
Later that day I popped the upper in the freezer overnight while I made a 5 pin nut wrench.
The nut still would not budge.
I resorted to careful passes with a dremel tool cutoff wheel and a needle to probe material thickness.
Result, split the nut free with no marks to the barrel or receiver threads.
I replaced the destroyed nut with a properly greased free float nut and reassembled.

Always moly grease barrel nuts and only torque to 80.
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