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Posted: 5/28/2009 12:12:55 PM EST
greetings:

i can find nothing on cieners website or in the instruction manual about what to lubricate? anyone care to share? if anyone has a link to a thread on detailed assy/disassy and lube i'd really appreciate being pointed in the right direction.
regards
m
Link Posted: 5/28/2009 12:31:13 PM EST
Put some lube on the moving parts. (bolt and the track) That's about it.
Link Posted: 5/28/2009 12:43:29 PM EST
Mine runs good wet (sort of sloppy wet) but I've seen other folks who say their's works better pretty dry.

Try yours and see what works best.

I also strip the oil off mine when I get it, smear some lapping compound on the rails and work the bolt back and forth till the rails are nice and shiny and smooth, then spray the lapping compound off with carb. cleaner, let dry and re-lube. That may not be necessary but I've done the 3 I bought that way and they work fine. It's sort of like "speeding" up the break in process.
Link Posted: 5/28/2009 1:38:23 PM EST
i use very little moly grease. never had a problem
Link Posted: 5/28/2009 1:42:48 PM EST
I run mine wet with Remoil.
Link Posted: 5/28/2009 2:09:56 PM EST
I normally run mine dry.

After I do a complete clean I will hose the unit down with spray silicone.
I sometimes will put like one drop of oil on the spring and rod and a tiny drop of oil on the extractor.

If I am at the range and the unit has been shot untill it is filthy and it starts to hang up I will add some CLP to loosen the crud and that will
usually have things running ok untill I have the time to do a good clean

My theory is that pretty much any oil you put on the unit will just start the crud buildup and it seems to stay cleaner when dry
Link Posted: 5/28/2009 3:39:55 PM EST
I have been using PB dry lube and it works great, it leaves a dry white powdery film that doesn't attract dirt and grit. I lube the spring and firing pin also. When the unit gets dirty I field strip it and put it in my ultra sonic cleaner. I using mineral spirits as the cleaning agent, and it comes out squeaky clean. I then re-lube with dry lube.
G
Link Posted: 6/15/2009 6:04:22 AM EST
Originally Posted By M1A4ME:
Mine runs good wet (sort of sloppy wet) but I've seen other folks who say their's works better pretty dry.

Try yours and see what works best.

I also strip the oil off mine when I get it, smear some lapping compound on the rails and work the bolt back and forth till the rails are nice and shiny and smooth, then spray the lapping compound off with carb. cleaner, let dry and re-lube. That may not be necessary but I've done the 3 I bought that way and they work fine. It's sort of like "speeding" up the break in process.


Not to hijack the thread but after reading the OOB thread, has anyone tried polishing the chamber to help with this issue or extraction problems.

I just received a kit last week and haven't had time to shoot it but when dropping a round in the chamber by hand, some have to be pushed in and it feels a little rough. When hand cycling ammo, sometimes the extractor doesn't get the round out.

Obviously I'll know more when I get a chance to shoot it.

Link Posted: 6/16/2009 6:24:48 AM EST
Most 22 rimfire guns work a lot better if an unfired cartridge slides in and out the the chamber easily. I usually polish the chamber with Flitz on a barrel mop using a variable speed drill. The biggest problem with lube is it attracts grit just like in an gas engine. I always clean after each range outing so this doesn't bother me. I usually you breakfree CLP on my 22 conversion kits/dedicated 22's and a couple of drops here and there definitely helps functioning. I'm sure some of the dry lube and other products will do just as well and is basically personal choice. I've seen some guns function pretty well dry and dirty but I don't mind cleaning guns.

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