MAN! By now I suppose all of you guys have read the hot topic "Oly Plinker Breaks in Half in Hands" under the General Firearms Discussion page www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=1&f=74&t=155892.

Well, I was just getting ready to buy a "Plinker" myself!! Yes, my very first AR purchase. After reading that story I changed my mind. (Better safe than sorry.)

CAN YOU GUYS GIVE ME SOME HELP....

Called my local dealer today and I can upgrade to an Oly Arms PCR-5 for about $120 extra ($689 + tax). No, I didn't want to pay this much but IF it's worth it, I'll buy it.

Is the PCR-5 a decent model and worth the extra cash?

Or is there another model in the same price range that would be better?

I appreciate the suggestions/comments...

-SteelHunter Out!

Aimless thanks for that link [:D]

Whether it is worth it to upgrade, some things to think about.

All Olympic Arms rifles have a lifetime warrenty.  Armalite is the only other company who does that I know of.

There are around 2000 Plinkers out there.

Every manufacturer will have a problem pop up.

I have a Plinker made into a machine gun and it has shot many thousands of rounds without a problem.

So is it worth it?  That is up to you.  If it breaks and Olympic fixes it, that is what a warrenty is all about.  Others will ask when the gun was bought and might fix it.  Some will charge you to fix it - major brands included.

I would not worry about getting a Plinker if it fits your pocket book and what you plan on doing with it.

I swear by RRA.

Here is an idea: Roll your own.

RRA lower: about $110
JT Distributing kit (CAR) $434

Whole rifle: $554

Look at all the kits out there. MOST use Wilson barrels (Model 1 does...) So does RRA. All the AR parts in the world come from only a few different factories.

Factory-built rifles are overrated. I got "scared" into needing that factory warranty. I must say though, the RRA 2 stage trigger is worth every penny. It ROCKS!

In response to the above replies:

1. "Rolling your own" sounds interesting.
[b]Who is RRA? Is there a website?[/b] (I've got experience in taking down AR style rifles, but the thought of messing with the trigger assembly is a little scary.)

2. How about the Bushy [b]XM15-E2S[/b] 20in. Barrel Rifle? Can you really go wrong buying a Bushmaster? (In other words, would you tell me to just 'shut-up' and pay the extra money b/c it will pay off in the long run?[:D])

Still listening to the great replies. Thanks.

-Steelhunter Out.

RRA: [url]http://www.rockriverarms.com/[/url]

As far as "rolling your own", you will need AR tools to build the upper. You can build the lower with just a hamer and a couple of punches.

Oly offers a kit with the upper completed and you assemble the lower:
[url]http://www.olyarms.com/usa.html[/url]

From the link, click retail catalog, pcr kits, then pcr kits.

Be warned, once you start building ARs you won't be able to stop.

you dont even need tools to roll your own if you have half a brain.

i built my carbine when i was still a teenager (last year) without any tools other than what was in my tool box.

here is what you do.

buy a JT Distributing kit.  The upper comes assembled and headspaced, which is by far the hardest part of the assembly.  This elimiated the need for any special tools.

I assembled my kit without roll pin punches and without a CAR stock wrench.

I used a properly sized button head nail and a regular old framing hammer to pound the pins in.  i padded all parts with tape and cardboard while i did this and didnt scratch a thing and all my roll pins got pounded in just fine.  my advice is to sand em down and lube em up before they go in.  they are a bit oversized.

and dude, if you are only making one AR, it is only like 3 roll pins.  no biggie.

the only othere even remotely hard part is the detent for the takedown pin.  i used a thin piece of aluminum i had to hold it down while i slid the pin into place.  easy as cake.

do it yourself.

you learn a lot.

-Spaceman

and oh yea, the CAR stock,  all you need for that is a screwdriver and a hammer.

pad the screwdriver tip with masking tape or something similar and engage it into one of the square holes where the wrench would go.

then just pound the screwdriver at an angle with the hammer so it forces the nut to turn.

any electricians here will know how this goes, or anyone who has assembled a home electrical box for that matter.  the nuts that attach the box to the conduit work in the same manner, with a screwdriver and a hammer.

it is easier done than said.  go do it.

J&T rocks.  excellent kit.  mine functions beautifully.  very accurate, but the HBAR is heavy.  if i did it all again id go for a lighter barrel.

-Spaceman