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11/22/2017 10:05:29 PM
Posted: 10/3/2004 7:41:57 AM EST
I used a white lithium grease to install my carbine buffer tube, should be ok I hope...

Is there anyone who would be willing to send me some moly grease out there? I can paypal you a few bucks to cover shipping and the cost of the grease no problem. I need enough for atleast two barrels, and possibly two stocks...

I'm not worried about the buffer tubes I am installing, but I would like to have the proper grease for installing two barrels that I have curing right now.

I just don't know any more auto parts stores to look at in the area. I have checked every single one I could think of, and called the others, with no luck.

Thanks guys,
Scott
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 7:44:07 AM EST
I actually bought mine (amazingly) at WalMart. Came in a tube, for a greasegun.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 7:56:56 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/4/2004 11:55:32 AM EST by Big-Bore]
Pep Boys, AutoZone, Wal Mart, NAPA, you must not have been lookin in the right spot. Go back and read the labels, I am sure they have it.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 7:58:58 AM EST
Brownells
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 8:01:15 AM EST
Wheel bearing grease is often moly
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 8:36:31 AM EST

Originally Posted By Big-Bore:
Pep Boys, AutoZone, Wal Mart, NAPA, you must not have been lookin in the right spot. The stuff I got is for engine assembly and is called "Sta-Lube" and is an anti-seize but when you read the ingredients it has the molly disulfide as well as graphite in it. Go back and read the labels, I am sure they have it.




DO NOT USE ANYTHING WITH GRAPHITE!

Graphite corrodes aluminum when combined with moisture and heat.

Disc brake wheel bearing grease is usually moly.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 10:05:09 AM EST
Stuff I got is "SuperTech" "Extreme Pressure Moly-Lithium Grease".

TYPICAL SPECIFICATIONS:
Base Type: Lithium 12 Hydroxy Sterate
Color: Dark Gray
N.L.G.I.: Grade 2
Drop Point: 350F Minimum
Water Resistance: Excellent
Timken OK Load: 45lbs.
WARNING: Contains Mineral Oil (heavy) 64741-96-4, Lithium Soap 7620-77-1 plus more.

I dont' see anything about graphite, but don't know what the "plus more" means. Anyone? Do I need to disassemble the uppers I assembled with this grease, and get some different stuff?
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 10:09:03 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/3/2004 3:59:56 PM EST by photoman]
Do you really need to use it on a buffertube? I didn;t when I put mine new stock on yesterday.

Anyway, I got abuddy that might have some, I'll see if I can catch him before he leaves for work this afternoon and get back to you.


ETA: Talked to him, he doesn;t ahve any left. Sorry i couldn;t help ya out.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 10:13:01 AM EST
An autoparts store that doesn't sell Lubriplate(molybdenum disulfide grease) ain't an autoparts store at all. Commonly used as a break in lubricant for engine assembly.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 12:48:02 PM EST
Will say this slowly...

Wheel Bearing Grease

Just ask for a tub of wheel bearing grease. If not that, then a tube of grease such as would be used in a grease gun.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 2:39:26 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/3/2004 2:42:41 PM EST by metroplex]
How about Militec 1 grease? There's no moly though.

I haven't gotten a straight answer about WHY grease is required on the receiver threads/barrel nut. It sounds like its used as an anti-sieze in case you want to swap barrels in the future.

If this is true... we could use nickel anti-sieze. I use it on my aluminum cylinder heads and iron cylinder heads for my spark plugs.

According to someone who watched the AGI? video - the guy in the video used engine oil (most engine oils do contain some moly).
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 2:47:25 PM EST
The three tubes I have are also for a small grease gun. I got them at auto zone.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 2:54:19 PM EST
Could you give us a source for the graphite with H2O corrodes aluminum, please. That is new to me, but so many things are.

Link Posted: 10/3/2004 5:10:53 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/3/2004 5:12:52 PM EST by AeroE]
Here is a link that discusses galvanic corrosion (the problem presented by graphite in contact with aluminum).
www.mcnallyinstitute.com/CDweb/g-html/g002.htm

Take a look at the galvanic series at this site - two materials that are far apart have greater galvanic current. An electrolyte (such as water) is also required; in practice galvanic corrosion can be arrested by removing the electrolyte, or separating the parts with a protective coating, hence paint, anodize, or other coatings. The main purpose of metal coating is to prevent corrosion first, cosmetics follow.

In the real world, guns get wet in the rain and coatings are not perfect or get damaged, so the best practice is to eliminate one problem material when possible.

By the way, Molybdenum is not Molybdenum Disulfide, and I don't know where this compound falls in the galvanic series.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 5:37:57 PM EST

Originally Posted By AeroE:
By the way, Molybdenum is not Molybdenum Disulfide, and I don't know where this compound falls in the galvanic series.



Very true. Molybdenum is a metal. Molybdenum disulfide is a solid lubricant, commonly found in a "grease" type suspension(usually white). When people refer to "moly grease" this is what they are refering to.

Grease is used when torqueing the barrel as the torque specifications are "wet" or lubricated, as opposed to "dry"

If you can't find Lubriplate at your autoparts store try an outboard motor(boat) shop, they will certainly have it.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 8:07:36 PM EST
Is it really necessary to grease the buffer tube threads? There were mixed feelings in another recent thread. I just put on some Mobil 1.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 9:03:27 PM EST
Couldnt find anything. I knew to look for "wheel bearing grease" as well.

Nothing was pure moly. I found stuff that had moly in it, but always had other crap like graphite or petrolium in it.

I couldnt find the stuff at brownells either, and searched for damn near everything.

If you have a part number for the stuff at brownells, that would work....

Link Posted: 10/4/2004 3:04:59 AM EST
Link Posted: 10/4/2004 11:56:59 AM EST
Thanks for the heads up. Choke tube grease has graphite in it (of course, not being used with aluminum) so I did not think the graphite would be a problem. Well, not too much trouble to strip down and remove. Again, thanks for the heads up.
Link Posted: 10/4/2004 1:35:39 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/4/2004 1:37:26 PM EST by rocko]

Nothing was pure moly. I found stuff that had moly in it, but always had other crap like graphite or petrolium in it.



Errr... methinks you're gonna have a bit of a problem finding a grease w/o any petroleum products in it! Molybendum disulfide is just an additive to the grease. If it was 100% "moly", then well, it wouldn't be grease.
Link Posted: 10/4/2004 1:46:46 PM EST

Originally Posted By rocko:

Nothing was pure moly. I found stuff that had moly in it, but always had other crap like graphite or petrolium in it.



Errr... methinks you're gonna have a bit of a problem finding a grease w/o any petroleum products in it! Molybendum disulfide is just an additive to the grease. If it was 100% "moly", then well, it wouldn't be grease.



Oh man.

Someone bitch slap me. 3 years of chem, oh well, thats Illinois public education for ya
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