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Posted: 11/21/2005 8:18:55 PM EDT
[#1]
Plastic parts are in danger from brake cleaner (action blaster or similar).
Remove the grip and keep the cleaner away from the stock when blasting the lower. Use the 'straw' that comes with I don't have any plastic on my upper, so I blast away at it... |
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Posted: 11/22/2005 8:34:23 AM EDT
[#2]
go with non-chlorinated brake cleaner
i have never had it mess up anything |
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Posted: 11/22/2005 8:36:39 AM EDT
[#3]
Use a non-chlorinated brake cleaner and it should be fine.
Give the exterior a wipe down with a light coat of oil to give it the nice black look again. |
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Posted: 11/22/2005 8:42:15 AM EDT
[#4]
+1. Don't panic when your black anodized aluminum turns almost white.  A little CLP will bring it back to normal.
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Posted: 11/22/2005 9:41:44 AM EDT
[#5]
+1 |
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Posted: 11/22/2005 1:38:06 PM EDT
[#6]
Thanks for all your replys guys, great information. Gonna give it a try tonight, just did brake jobs on my personal vehicles and grabbed a few extra cans of non chlorinated cleaner.
Thanks again, you guys are the best. |
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Posted: 11/22/2005 2:03:04 PM EDT
[#7]
+2 mine looked like snow camo  but it goes back to normal afer some clp |
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Posted: 11/22/2005 2:50:11 PM EDT
[#8]
non-chlorinated brake cleaner softens some paint, letting the paint bleed some.
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Posted: 11/22/2005 4:00:27 PM EDT
[#9]
Try carb cleaner. It's not as strong, gets it clean. Don't get it on the plastic.
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Posted: 11/22/2005 5:23:00 PM EDT
[#10]
You left off to not smoke while using it. 
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Posted: 11/23/2005 6:59:17 PM EDT
[#11]
Carb cleaner is much stronger then brake cleaner. |
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Posted: 11/27/2005 2:14:57 PM EDT
[#12]
never had a problem with the non-chlorenated brake cleaner hitting the handguards or getting on the grip. Wipe it down with a rag and a little CLP when your done.
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Posted: 11/27/2005 2:43:25 PM EDT
[#13]
+1. Brake cleaner is just a degreaser, which is not that big a job. Carb cleaner is meant to tackle tougher stuff. If you ever get carb cleaner on your skin, you can tell the difference right away.
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Posted: 12/3/2005 5:23:43 PM EDT
[#14]
For my trigger group, I use fast evaporating contact cleaner and then lube it with rem oil. I atleast clean it twice a week (I get bored) and never had a problem yet. As for the upper, I blast it with bore cleaner on the inside.
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Posted: 12/11/2005 10:13:30 AM EDT
[#15]
I ALSO HAVE BEEN USING BRAKE CLEAN FOR AROUND 5 YEARS. IT CLEANS VERY WELL, AND I ALSO USE MY COMPRESSOR AND BLOW NOZZLE WHICH HELPS GET THE REST OF THE CRAP OUT OF THOSE HARD TO REACH AREAS
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Posted: 12/11/2005 10:23:44 AM EDT
[#16]
+ whatever |
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Posted: 12/11/2005 12:04:23 PM EDT
[#17]
Not all brands of "non-chlorinated" brake cleaners are the same. Need to check the label and get one with only petroleum distillates and toluene. Some brands have acetone – which is hard on plastics and paint.
At NAPA (give both case lot discount plus AAA discounts) they have two "non-chlorinted" brake cleaners - one with acetone and one with out. Have to watch the label ;-). As noted earlier all the "non-chlorinated" brake cleaners burn very easly and if using in the basement or garage etc. could have the fumes go pop with the water heater etc. Best to use ouside only. |
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Posted: 12/11/2005 12:07:07 PM EDT
[#18]
Keep it off the plastic parts, the extractor insert/O-Rings and the plastic bump on the buffer.
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Posted: 12/18/2005 4:55:10 PM EDT
[#19]
I have used brake cleaner on all my guns, it works like a dream. Just no plastic/ rubber.
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Posted: 12/19/2005 5:45:14 PM EDT
[#20]
Quoted:
Plastic parts are in danger from brake cleaner (action blaster or similar). Remove the grip and keep the cleaner away from the stock when blasting the lower. Use the 'straw' that comes with I don't have any plastic on my upper, so I blast away at it...[/quote That's BS! Brake Cleaner will not have any adverse reaction on your "Plastic Parts"! Been doing it for years and hundreds of cleanings! Tack |
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