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Posted: 8/27/2010 4:52:45 PM EDT
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That's just plain butt ugly. Did you see the tip on ARFCOM to drill a hole first, just a dimple really. Then use a punch to expand the metal from the hold you drilled.
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... But will it hold up to some stress? Only way to be certain is to send it to me for destructive testing....... |
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I've never staked any of mine and have never had them come loose. just a small dab of loctite and a god wrenching worked good.
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Quoted: I've never staked any of mine and have never had them come loose. just a small dab of loctite and a god wrenching worked good. Same with me, I don't even bother with lock-tite. Has to be good and tight though. |
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I never stake mine either.If it comes loose then I'll torque down again.
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armorer_91f is gonna send me a new plate and castle nut for free. So, looks like my sad, sorry end plate is getting a makeover regardless. Also, I lol'd at the nail gun with a sledgehammer comment. Thanks, armorer_91f! |
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Quoted: One blow from a hammer is sufficient to peen the metal. Yeah seriously. |
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Sent you an IM.I'll send you an end plate for free. Class act there, armorer. |
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I've never staked any of mine and have never had them come loose. just a small dab of loctite and a god wrenching worked good. this but the nail gun commment has me pissing myself right now, |
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I stake mine because I have had one come loose, I have seen others come loose and I have read accounts of even more coming loose. If it wasn't an issue then it wouldn't be part of the spec. But it is and it is. Loctite is not the answer either. Loctite doesn't belong on a castle nut. Staking is fast and easy and the correct way to do this.
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The automatic prick punch is the best thing for castle nut staking. May take like 10 hits but is very clean.
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I stake mine because I have had one come loose, I have seen others come loose and I have read accounts of even more coming loose. If it wasn't an issue then it wouldn't be part of the spec. But it is and it is. Loctite is not the answer either. Loctite doesn't belong on a castle nut. Staking is fast and easy and the correct way to do this. Yea I've seen them come loose on other peoples guns. I've had one come loose on my ar-10 as well. It got staked after that. |
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Put your fucked up end plate in a vice and use it for practice.
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Take a broken punch, 5 mins on a bench grinder and make this staking tool. http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq162/RPD27/003-1.jpg Take your new tool and a hammer, make several strikes, not too hard. The proper way is to flow the metal into the castle nut. http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq162/RPD27/002.jpg Do you have any close-up pics of the tip so I can see how it looks like after you ground it? Thanks! |
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did you use a fucking nail gun with a sledge hammer attached? |
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did you use a fucking nail gun with a sledge hammer attached? That is some funny shit right there!!! Seriously though I have not ever staked mine. Not saying that is right or wrong just saying................ |
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Sent you an IM.I'll send you an end plate for free. Wow, generous offer! |
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In the words of my father..... "You did good son...." (stated with tons of sarcasm)
We all have to learn somehow and I can almost guarantee you will never do it like that again. At least you cared about making it proper, but you need to work on the execution When good intentions go bad.... |
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DONT JB WELD ANYTHING ON AN ARyou could even use a chisel and round the sharp edge thats how I do it and works great for carrier keys as well.Loc tite will need heat to take off,JB weld well use that and try getting the nut turned off and thats the worst advice I have ever heard given here...repeat DONT USE JB WELD in any contruction of an AR period.
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Hope you're happy with it because you're either going to break the receiver or strip the castlenut before that comes loose. It def. isn't going anywhere.
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I never stake mine either.If it comes loose then I'll torque down again. Me too. What's the big deal? |
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The big deal is that for those of us who invest in training and take classes to prepare yourself to really use the weapon if you have to in a life or death situation its a must.I take the 2cnd ammendment to heart and need my weapons and myself to be ready accordingly.Any AR15 used hard or meant for hard use and a potential fight doesnt need the castle nut coming loose while your using the weapon to defend your home ,family and self.
The big deal is when you run them hard and carry them around they take abuse and get banged up and thats a pretty critical part to come loose in the middle of a fight.Try torquing it down while your being shot at im sure that will work out fine.Its specified in the TDP that the military goes by for how the weapon should be assembled as the military im sure runs them harder than I ever will in a class.They do it for a reason. The big deal is if you use the weapon for the range it doesnt matter,but if you use them for both range and training then it needs to be done period.Just because those of you who dont have them staked or even loc tited have never experienced them coming loose doesnt mean at some point it cant or wont happen remember murphy and his law.Its to insure it will never happen thats why its staked.The mind set of "it hasnt happened so im not gonna worry about until it does"can get you or worse others hurt or killed. Even if it never happened in the history of using telestocks the last 40 years but was done as a just in case I would still do it.I might as well just tourque on my carrier key and forget about that to,or maybe ill take the cermaic trauma plate out of my body armor because ive never been shot in the chest or back so Ill just "forget about it no big deal"if it happens ill deal with it..yea in the next life cause ill be dead if I thought that way.Some of us see this as more than a hobby. |
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My personal thoughts on the matter . . . A castle nut/end plate staked properly eliminates one variable from the equation. Thus, one less issue to potentially deal with . . . Expect the worst case scenario.
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Just looked at my stake job. My castle nut does not come with a crimping groove. Made in China?
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Quoted: Hope you're happy with it because you're either going to break the receiver or strip the castlenut before that comes loose. It def. isn't going anywhere. Think so, eh? |
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All you would have to do is either with a motor tool or using the tool you staked with and reverse the procedure to take the metal out of the castle nut notch and torque it off.
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It looks like you hit the end plate in mulitple spots for each hole, that is why it looks so bad. Make sure the punch stays in the same spot before you hit it again. Driving the punch in the same spot will displace the metal very nicely. Making it look clean.
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Just looked at my stake job. My castle nut does not come with a crimping groove. Made in China? Order a new one, they are cheap enough. |
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Loctite can glue the castle nut to the extension harder than the resistance the slot can hold if you ever remove the extension. This causes the extension to unscrew from the lower instead of just the nut. The tab on the end-plate then gouges a nice groove into your extension's threads.
Happened to me twice, now I stake. |
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Quoted: Loctite can glue the castle nut to the extension harder than the resistance the slot can hold if you ever remove the extension. This causes the extension to unscrew from the lower instead of just the nut. The tab on the end-plate then gouges a nice groove into your extension's threads. Happened to me twice, now I stake. Just out of curiosity, what loctite did you use? Red? Blue? |
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I had that problem when I used a little hammer, which didn't generate enough force. A whack or two with a bigger hammer works much better.
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Quoted:
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Take a broken punch, 5 mins on a bench grinder and make this staking tool. http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq162/RPD27/003-1.jpg Take your new tool and a hammer, make several strikes, not too hard. The proper way is to flow the metal into the castle nut. http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq162/RPD27/002.jpg Do you have any close-up pics of the tip so I can see how it looks like after you ground it? Thanks! The end looks like a small flat rectangle. I tried to pics, but I am not that good. |
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I have a brand new Ar15,that i change the back plate to install the Magpul ASAP plate.And i was terrified to stake it because i would die if i had to scratch it,but i was not happy knowing that there is a chance that the castle nut would backup on me and loose parts and else,so i was reading this thread and i found the guts to do it thanks for some help from u guys especially (CQB27 thanks mate)i has an old puch ,and it came perfect.I almost forgot u need someone that holds the rifle steady,thanks to my wife
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I've never staked any of mine and have never had them come loose. just a small dab of loctite and a god wrenching worked good. Do you need a sacrifice to get a god to come down and wrench it for you? ETA: Aww shit! I just checked and mine isn't staked. Damn it! Guess I gotta go get a lamb. Or maybe Osprey21 would lend me another hand. |
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I've never staked any of mine and have never had them come loose. just a small dab of loctite and a god wrenching worked good. Same with me, I don't even bother with lock-tite. Has to be good and tight though. I used to think this way too. Until I had one work loose. Op that looks like it would probably hold but that has to be the worst stake job I have ever seen. |
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Just looked at my stake job. My castle nut does not come with a crimping groove. Made in China? Order a new one, they are cheap enough. The one there now is a high standard nut (no staking grooves). I just ordered a few nuts thru Brownells, the correct ones this time.... Thanks for the simple idea. I ordered a proper wrench too... |
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This thread encouraged me to stake mine. I just used a starter punch, and a dozen or so hits flowed it pretty well into the notch. I can see how a rectangular end can work better. I am planning on making one out of a broken punch tomorrow and will give it a go on my other lower.
Ian |
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LOL! My terrible attempt encouraged others to not worry about it so much and try it? Some good came out of it afterall... And I got a free castle nut and end plate out of it too.
I love this site. |
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Guys, get a grip.
You are not welding the the end plate to the castle nut. It bears no load, all you're doing is keeping the nut from spinning loose from vibration. Support the tube with some wood blocks, place the point of prick punch about 2mm from the edge and give it a single firm blow with a ball peen or similar hammer suitable for striking metal. That's it. It doesn't fasten anything, bear any load or resist any substantial force. You don't have to fill the notch in the nut with metal. It doesn't have to be a square punch. It should just arrest the turning of the nut and not beyond the force applied when using a wrench. |
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LOL! My terrible attempt encouraged others to not worry about it so much and try it? I'm a hobbiest first. Your post caused me to look at my gun. I wanted to see how well I did on mine. Well, I never staked it because I couldn't. It never loosed up on me. So, as a hobbiest first, I want the gun correct, proper & perfect. I ordered the stuff, and next week I'll do it right this time. This site is pretty cool, always learning something. I never thought the rings came different ways. This site keeps me young! Now the gun rests on the bench all apart waiting for my little UPS buddy early next week. |
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A little black paint dabbed over the stake job is what Colt did for years. Makes a so so stake job look authentic.
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Quoted: A little black paint dabbed over the stake job is what Colt did for years. Makes a so so stake job look authentic. HA! Nice. I did just order a black paint pen to cover up the couple little nicks I put in my lower while putting it together... (I knew I should've put masking tape on it like the instructions said, but I had to go and learn the hard way, ha!) |
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