On the car/shorty length barrel with mid/full length hand guards, normally there is a gas block under the hand guards (would be at the normal Car sight tower location, with the front sight placed at the muzzle section). The front sight tower is not used as a gas block, just as a sight.
If your barrel is using full-length hand guards, with the tower being the gas block, then you have just opened a can of worms. The problem that you will have is the same as if the barrel was a 10.5, due to lack of barrel after the gas port.
If the barrel is a 20" commercial chromed lined barrel that has been cut down, Chrome lined being the key, forget about getting the barrel runningby openning the gas port. The only way that you would be able to save this barrel is to have it sent off, re-profiled and gas block installed at the Car location on the barrel.
I will spell out what I think your game plan will be on the barrel.
First off, you plan on opening up the gas port to get the barrel to run. The problem is that the port is going to be very large in order for the tube to fully pressurize the gas tube to unlock the bolt. The problem here is that the barrel is still under a lot of pressure (high spike), and the case is still pressure bound to the chamber.
At some point you will get the bolt to unlock, and will have to reinforce the extractor to keep it from being torn off the rim. Once you re-enforce the extractor/spring (read D-fender), you will find that it now has a weak stroke, and you will have to open up the port even more to over come the new resisted spent case extracting stroke.
Now that you have the case being extracted, and the bolt fully cycling, the carrier is moving way too fast, and you will need to slow it down so it does not knock the back of the receiver extension off. So, your next plan of attack is to install a stronger buffer spring to slow the carrier down. The problem is that strong spring applies more pressure to the carrier, so you have to open the gas port even more to get it to full cycle and extract the spent case.
Now you open the port up again, and find yourself back at trying to slow the carrier back down. This time you add more weight to the buffer, using tungsten powder and epoxy (it's a semi, so your not worried about bolt bounce). Now when the buffer comes back, due to the added weight, you can really feel the buffer impacting the back of the receiver extension, and know for sure that the receiver extension will not last long. About this time you figure that you have had enough fun, chuck the barrel into the spare parts box and install a factory barrel that you know will run.
Bottom line is to add a new gas block at the Car location. If the barrel is not chromed lined, then you can open up the chamber sidewall dimensions (not head space). This will aid in the spent case being able to be extracted, but causes the barrel to be less accurate for semi shooting, due to case blow by at ignition, plus shortens the life on the brass if you plan to reload (think M-249).
Either way, the only solution for this barrel on a semi rifle is to add a gas block, which leaves enough barrel after the port to allow the gas tube to slowly pressurizes threw a smaller port, and not have the high spike needed to make the current gas block location work.
The only problem is see on the current barrel would be is the barrel is profiled/lightened, which leaves no steel for a secondary cut back from the current sight tower location to add the new gas block/location.
P.S. If you want to know why I have figured this out, I can dig in one of my spare part boxes and send you a nice 17” round paperweight.