User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 5/11/2004 11:13:41 PM EDT
The question:
Why does everyone make such a big deal of removing the taper pins and the sight base? I installed a free float foreend for the first time tonight, a Daniel Defense 12.0(thanks Prideboss). I used an old nail set with a concave tip and an 8oz brass hammer. It took no more than 4 strikes of the hammer per pin. The barrel is a new Colt 1:7 preban HBAR. Easy as pie  PS the Daniel Defense foreends are a work of art. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/11/2004 11:54:15 PM EDT
[#1]
Some pins are way more difficult than yours was. You had it easy.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/12/2004 12:48:44 AM EDT
[#2]
I have a BM barrel that (I think) is impossible to take those pins out. It wears a M4 RAS for that reason. I did my DPMS and RRA barrels pretty easy like yours too.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/12/2004 8:22:40 AM EDT
[#3]
I just did two Olympic barrels, and I needed several really good whack with a 1lb hammer...an 8oz brass hammer woudn't have budged 'em.
some are tighter than others (hmmm...sorta sounds like something else lol). My Model 1 rifles were really easy. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/12/2004 8:53:12 AM EDT
[#4]
Definitely ARMOR LEVEL activity ONLY!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/12/2004 8:55:07 AM EDT
[#5]
I worked on one rifle that I had to CUT the pins out. No amount of pounding on them made a difference. Others have just taken a few hard taps.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/12/2004 9:02:14 AM EDT
[#6]
My Bushy barrel was a bitch. Had to cut the entire damn FSB off!
The RRA barrel was easy. With this barrel I let the pins soak in Kroil for 20 minutes, used a concave punch & 3-4lbs hammer. I didn't hold anything back when hitting the punch. Pins came loose with the first hit on each. BTW, those DD tubes are great! I just got my second one. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/12/2004 2:46:54 PM EDT
[#7]
I discovered a method that makes it easier to get those tough pins out. First, you need something SOLID, preferably steel, to use as an anvil. I have a short, 2 lb. sledge and I use a tapered nail-set punch. But the new discovery was using a 4mm socket on the back side of the FSB. You set the socket with the base-end down and the 4mm socket side up, and then place the FSB on top, with the head of the pin in the socket. The fat part of the pin will fit into the 4mm socket, so when you hit the thin side of the pin with the hammer/punch, all of the force is transferred to the ring around the pin. This gets the tough ones out fast. You do need two people to hold everything, though.
-Troy |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/12/2004 6:11:47 PM EDT
[#8]
I will say that I shot a lot of Breakfree CLP onto the pins before I left for work the day I planned on removing the FSB. It had a whole day while I was away to creep into the pins and then I shot some more CLP onto the pins when I got home. I used the foam cushion on the inside of my Starlight case as a work surface since I didn't want to walk through the rain to my shop.
|
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
