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Posted: 1/1/2015 11:12:49 PM EDT
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Started building up two Anderson lowers tonight. Had one I bought from AIM that had the multi caliber markings on it and the integral trigger guard, and a 5.56 regular lower I purchased for way too much money from my LGS. $75 at the time.
Started with the multi and noticed the take down pins would not go in. The holes were too small. I mean WAY too small. In fact the front pin holes almost seemed to be off center with each other. Went ahead and installed the mag release. It went in fine. Started to put in the bolt catch and it would not even fit in the slot. Went to my parts box and found 2 more sets of bolt catches and take down pins to try and none would work. Tried the parts on the other Anderson lower and they fit great. Has anyone run into any issues with out of spec holes on these? I haven't read any reports about this. Going to call AIM tomorrow and I know they will take care of it, but I had alot of confidence in these lowers. They look great and seemed to have a great rep on the net. Just wondering if I have missed something on these? I built one of these exact lowers up for a friend 3 weeks ago and it went together perfectly. I know everyone can roll out an out of spec one every now and then. Finshed up the other one and its waiting on my 300 Blackout upper from DSG to get here. It looks and feels GREAT. |
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"You get what you pay for."
I've heard a few rumblings of the same exact problem you're having. It seems to be somewhat common. I'd either ask for an exchange or a refund if possible and put it towards something of better quality. Shit even PSA is much better quality comparably. |
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"You get what you pay for." I've heard a few rumblings of the same exact problem you're having. It seems to be somewhat common. I'd either ask for an exchange or a refund if possible and put it towards something of better quality. Shit even PSA is much better quality comparably. Do you really think so ? If there were problems, the major companies who are selling them, would either stop selling and get with Anderson to find out what the problem is and correct it. You're a fool if you think companies send out product intentionally knowing it is out of spec. |
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"You get what you pay for." I've heard a few rumblings of the same exact problem you're having. It seems to be somewhat common. I'd either ask for an exchange or a refund if possible and put it towards something of better quality. Shit even PSA is much better quality comparably. Actually besides this thread and one about RRA pins not fitting (possible NM pins ) I haven't seen any other posts about this issue. They may be out there but I haven't seen them so I wouldn't say "common". I built up 3 integral TG Anderson lowers in the past 2 weeks and had no problems. |
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Had a similar problem today rear take down pin 1st pic hole is off also size was .280 s/b .255.
2nd pic Fixed by making a bushing and boring the hole in the correct place then drilled detent hole thru http://<a href=http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/a534/jrshaf/Mobile%20Uploads/18884750-52A4-4FB2-88D8-507E8540A2D9_zpscdjkm0fs.jpg</a>" /> That doesn't look like any Anderson lower I've seen. Is that a poly lower by any chance. |
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You're a fool if you think companies send out product intentionally knowing it is out of spec. Quoted:
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"You get what you pay for." I've heard a few rumblings of the same exact problem you're having. It seems to be somewhat common. I'd either ask for an exchange or a refund if possible and put it towards something of better quality. Shit even PSA is much better quality comparably. You're a fool if you think companies send out product intentionally knowing it is out of spec. Well shit, good thing I didn't say that.
I don't think they're bad. They're your typical lower at a cheap price. I personally wouldn't buy one that's all. I've heard of three separate lowers having weird fitment issues. Out of the thousands I hear about either through here or locally that's a pretty low number. |
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I just finished my wife's build a couple of weeks ago and it is an Anderson lower. It did not have the integral trigger guard, but I had no issues at all. In fact it was very easy to complete.
You got a bad one out of spec. Mine was very smooth and hassle free. |
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You're not completely alone. I did 2 of the Anderson lowers with integrated trigger guards recently (sequential serial numbers). First one had zero issues. The second one was tight on the bolt release. It was tight going into the slot, but rotates freely, so no complaints there. Better than being sloppy I suppose. Both takedown pins were TIGHT. I lubed them up well, then knocked them back and forth about 50 times with a mallet and punch. It did loosen up a bit, but the rear is still impossible to push out by finger. I figured I would see how it was after running some rounds through it. It's not so tight I can't use it, and I'd rather have it tight than sloppy! The first lower was an unknown parts kit, no problems. The second lower with issues was a CMMG parts kit. |
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I have assembled several AR's with Anderson lowers and they have all gone fine with zero problems. Anderson has always meant quality to me. There is no reason on this earth to pay more than $50-$60 for a quality lower at todays prices. I have one Anderson lower on my bench as I write this and it is going together fine.
V |
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Well, didn't get a chance to call Aim today but I did get a Radical Firearms lower parts kit in the mail. Tried the bolt stop in the lower and it FIT...! Tried the takedown pins, they are still EXTREMELY tight but I figured with a little work I could make it usable. So I tried hand fitting the other parts. Tried the safety and it will no where near go in the hole. I have 4 in the parts box and none of them will work. Won't fit from either side.
Arggg... ![]() ![]()
Thought I could make it work, but guess not. |
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Well, didn't get a chance to call Aim today but I did get a Radical Firearms lower parts kit in the mail. Tried the bolt stop in the lower and it FIT...! Tried the takedown pins, they are still EXTREMELY tight but I figured with a little work I could make it usable. So I tried hand fitting the other parts. Tried the safety and it will no where near go in the hole. I have 4 in the parts box and none of them will work. Won't fit from either side. Arggg... ![]() ![]()
Thought I could make it work, but guess not. That stinks! Hopefully they will just replace it as out of spec. Had the same issue with a VLTOR upper that would not fit any of my lowers at the time. Replaced it, the new one worked flawlessly on each upper. It's rare, but it can happen to any manufacturer. |
| Ive put together 3 Anderson lowers.........all with no issues and have used two of their uppers that were sold as blems with no issues..........I did have a BCG from them that was junk...........I made one call and was told to send it back..........and was promptly issued a refund with no questions asked...............that being said.......I can say the customer service is top notch.........I would not hesitate to buy another lower or anything else for that matter from them.............. |
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I had two Anderson lowers that I have built and had the problem with the takedown pins not fitting. I took a hone and ran it through twice and it cleared my problem. It looked like there was a buildup of the anodizing material inside the holes. Once I did this, they functioned perfectly. I would have no problem buying/building them again.
You should contact them directly and see if they have an authorized dealer in your area that may be able to work with you on the transfer fees. I've heard nothing but great reviews on their customer service. Good luck Brother! |
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Yea I was hoping I could make this one work. By the time this one is replaced I'm going to be out $50 in FFL fees. Quoted:
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The problem with replacing the lower is it is registered and will have to go through an FFL. V Yea I was hoping I could make this one work. By the time this one is replaced I'm going to be out $50 in FFL fees. I believe, as the law states, It wouldn't have to go through a FFL, you already own it. It is just like sending a handgun or rifle back in for repair. To manufacture and back to you, no FFL involved. Signature required obviously. This would probably have to go through Anderson not AIM though. Some Most manufactures will used to do it this way, some won't. On a $40 lower, if the holes were "close", I probably would run a drill bit, sandpaper or rat tail file as suggested. Grab your calipers and see how far off they really are. I have zero problems with me chasing a tight hole with the proper size drill bit by hand, but that is just me. YMMV Oh, right or wrong, if the cost of the transfers were going to cost me more than the item was worth I would fix it myself. I would make sure I told AIM first though, they SHOULD take care of you. [edit] I just assembled my extra Anderson lower ser# xxx24761. Yes, the pivot pin was tight but not unacceptably so. I've had this with others, from Spikes to Areo, not a big deal as I don't want a loose pivot pin. The bolt catch slot was tight as well but it was the same on almost all the lowers I've worked on (even poly ones). Once you "pop" it in there and move it around it loosens up some. Normal to me at least. I don't know how many lowers you've worked on but some will almost seem to fall together and some will need a little persuasion. I, personally, prefer the tight ones [edit] should have said this in the first place, times change. |
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Well, didn't get a chance to call Aim today but I did get a Radical Firearms lower parts kit in the mail. Tried the bolt stop in the lower and it FIT...! Tried the takedown pins, they are still EXTREMELY tight but I figured with a little work I could make it usable. So I tried hand fitting the other parts. Tried the safety and it will no where near go in the hole. I have 4 in the parts box and none of them will work. Won't fit from either side. Arggg... ![]() ![]()
Thought I could make it work, but guess not. You can use a 3/8" drill bit to smooth out and check the safety hole. I take the drill bit and spin it by hand when I have trouble with the safety fitting in the hole. Sometimes during machining there will be a burr on the inside of the hole and it causes binding issues, or the anodizing process will create build up inside the hole. In most cases a quick spin by hand will remedy the problem. I have had more problems with oversized safety holes than undersized ones. |
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I believe, as the law states, It wouldn't have to go through a FFL, you already own it. It is just like sending a handgun or rifle back in for repair. To manufacture and back to you, no FFL involved. Signature required obviously. This would probably have to go through Anderson not AIM though. Most manufactures will do it this way, some won't. On a $40 lower, if the holes were "close", I probably would run a drill bit, sandpaper or rat tail file as suggested. Grab your calipers and see how far off they really are. I have zero problems with me chasing a tight hole with the proper size drill bit by hand, but that is just me. YMMV Oh, right or wrong, if the cost of the transfers were going to cost me more than the item was worth I would fix it myself. I would make sure I told AIM first though, they SHOULD take care of you. [edit] I just assembled my extra Anderson lower ser# xxx24761. Yes, the pivot pin was tight but not unacceptably so. I've had this with others, from Spikes to Areo, not a big deal as I don't want a loose pivot pin. The bolt catch slot was tight as well but it was the same on almost all the lowers I've worked on (even poly ones). Once you "pop" it in there and move it around it loosens up some. Normal to me at least. I don't know how many lowers you've worked on but some will almost seem to fall together and some will need a little persuasion. I, personally, prefer the tight ones Quoted:
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The problem with replacing the lower is it is registered and will have to go through an FFL. V Yea I was hoping I could make this one work. By the time this one is replaced I'm going to be out $50 in FFL fees. I believe, as the law states, It wouldn't have to go through a FFL, you already own it. It is just like sending a handgun or rifle back in for repair. To manufacture and back to you, no FFL involved. Signature required obviously. This would probably have to go through Anderson not AIM though. Most manufactures will do it this way, some won't. On a $40 lower, if the holes were "close", I probably would run a drill bit, sandpaper or rat tail file as suggested. Grab your calipers and see how far off they really are. I have zero problems with me chasing a tight hole with the proper size drill bit by hand, but that is just me. YMMV Oh, right or wrong, if the cost of the transfers were going to cost me more than the item was worth I would fix it myself. I would make sure I told AIM first though, they SHOULD take care of you. [edit] I just assembled my extra Anderson lower ser# xxx24761. Yes, the pivot pin was tight but not unacceptably so. I've had this with others, from Spikes to Areo, not a big deal as I don't want a loose pivot pin. The bolt catch slot was tight as well but it was the same on almost all the lowers I've worked on (even poly ones). Once you "pop" it in there and move it around it loosens up some. Normal to me at least. I don't know how many lowers you've worked on but some will almost seem to fall together and some will need a little persuasion. I, personally, prefer the tight ones This one is number 17 assembled and the first I have ever had these type issues with. I've decided I am going to try and work on it instead of return it. Not woth eating those fees or shipping back and forth. I'll post some pics when I get this thing put together. |
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I believe, as the law states, It wouldn't have to go through a FFL, you already own it. It is just like sending a handgun or rifle back in for repair. To manufacture and back to you, no FFL involved. Signature required obviously. This would probably have to go through Anderson not AIM though. Most manufactures will do it this way, some won't. This was not the case when I had a Taurus 709 Slim replaced by Taurus. After I sent it in I received a letter from Taurus stating the firearm would be replaced at Taurus expense including transfer fee to the FFL of my choosing. V |
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This was not the case when I had a Taurus 709 Slim replaced by Taurus. After I sent it in I received a letter from Taurus stating the firearm would be replaced at Taurus expense including transfer fee to the FFL of my choosing. V Quoted:
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I believe, as the law states, It wouldn't have to go through a FFL, you already own it. It is just like sending a handgun or rifle back in for repair. To manufacture and back to you, no FFL involved. Signature required obviously. This would probably have to go through Anderson not AIM though. Most manufactures will do it this way, some won't. This was not the case when I had a Taurus 709 Slim replaced by Taurus. After I sent it in I received a letter from Taurus stating the firearm would be replaced at Taurus expense including transfer fee to the FFL of my choosing. V Right on, good on Taurus for picking up the fee. I guess things may have changed in recent years, it's been a long time since I had to ship anything. I also guess it might depend by your states laws. I was just responding how I remember it, times change. |
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Right on, good on Taurus for picking up the fee. I guess things may have changed in recent years, it's been a long time since I had to ship anything. I also guess it might depend by your states laws. I was just responding how I remember it, times change. Quoted:
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I believe, as the law states, It wouldn't have to go through a FFL, you already own it. It is just like sending a handgun or rifle back in for repair. To manufacture and back to you, no FFL involved. Signature required obviously. This would probably have to go through Anderson not AIM though. Most manufactures will do it this way, some won't. This was not the case when I had a Taurus 709 Slim replaced by Taurus. After I sent it in I received a letter from Taurus stating the firearm would be replaced at Taurus expense including transfer fee to the FFL of my choosing. V Right on, good on Taurus for picking up the fee. I guess things may have changed in recent years, it's been a long time since I had to ship anything. I also guess it might depend by your states laws. I was just responding how I remember it, times change. Yes, I was very pleased, my 709 was an early model that had obviously been in the store for a while. The 709 had some teething issues with FTE. Not to hijack this thread. V |
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I thought that manufacturers were allowed to "repair and/or replace" without FFL involvement? Quoted:
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The problem with replacing the lower is it is registered and will have to go through an FFL. V I thought that manufacturers were allowed to "repair and/or replace" without FFL involvement? They always have when I had issues. I have a few Anderson's and they have all been fine. |
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I thought that manufacturers were allowed to "repair and/or replace" without FFL involvement? Quoted:
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The problem with replacing the lower is it is registered and will have to go through an FFL. V I thought that manufacturers were allowed to "repair and/or replace" without FFL involvement? I sent them an email just to see if they can/will do anything. I'll let everyone know. Would be GREAT if I can just deal directly with them and get it swapped out with no more FFL transfers. |
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Well, didn't get a chance to call Aim today but I did get a Radical Firearms lower parts kit in the mail. Tried the bolt stop in the lower and it FIT...! Tried the takedown pins, they are still EXTREMELY tight but I figured with a little work I could make it usable. So I tried hand fitting the other parts. Tried the safety and it will no where near go in the hole. I have 4 in the parts box and none of them will work. Won't fit from either side. Arggg... ![]() ![]()
Thought I could make it work, but guess not. Just put together my first lower. Andersen lower and LPK. The safety had very tight tolerances on the right side. The pivot and takedown pins also had a tight tolerance, but after a few in and outs they move a little easier. I used CLP when putting it all together, seemed to make the all the pins go in smoothly. |
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